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HMS Victory by Yon - Caldercraft 1:72


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Over the past week or so I've been working on the hull decoration. Following the advice of my fellow Victory builders, I temporarily pinned on the channels and then applied the brass rails, fenders, chesstrees and other hull decorations.  I also attached the side entry port and steps.

 

All fairly straight forward but quite time consuming.  Now for the chainplates....

 

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Hi yon

Well done ,you are moving along nicely and all is looking spick and span. With the chainplates, I would not fit the channels to the ship to fit them. I would put them on a jig of some sort to make the linking up etc easier to see, if you follow. I am prob telling you the road you know but never mind. I made a simple jig, it's on my log, I am making masts, it is a good place to be. It might be a good idea to fit the gunport lids that are below the channels before you fit the channels on, makes it easier Hope all is well. DAVID

Edited by Shipyard sid
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Hi David

 

All is well here thanks.  I am grateful for the advice - I see the jig you mean and will do the same as you.

 

I look forward to seeing your masts !

 

All the best

 

Yon

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Lawrence

 

Thank you for your comments.  I have been looking at your log - looks like you are making great progress - I would be surprised if you are as much as a year behind me.

 

I'm currently working on chainplates, gun barrels and gunport lids.  Its all quite repetitive so I've not been posting pictures lately - its good fun though.

 

I shall be following your build - keep up the good work !

 

All the best

 

Yon

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Hi David

 

Good to hear from you.  Here are a few photos.  As you will see I tried to follow your method of making an angled cut to secure the strops. I think its working well so I am grateful to you for that idea. 

 

No more trips to the Caribbean are planned for me - in fact my working week has been cut from 3 to 2 days so I have even more build time.  That being said I think the chainplates / gunport lids stage is not going to get finished until August at my current rate of progress - too much sport on TV this time of year is causing a distraction !!

 

Cheers for now

 

Yon

 

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looking very good - keep up the good work - i have 4 days ahead of me to do some work on mine 

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Hi Guys

 

Unfortunately there are too many lids still to do and I won't be starting on the starboard side for aboout a month ! In fact, I'm not happy with some of the few I have done and they willl need to come off  !!

 

Cheers

 

Yon

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hello yon - i had plans to put all the lower lids on in the shut position - but by the time the wales are placed on to follow the flow of the hull - i relaised just how much work the lids will incorporate - might just revise the position of these - lol - wait ans see

 

the wales raise the lids way passed the recess, to do this i might as well remove al gunport linings - or make thinner lids - the jury is out on this one

 

 

all the best

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Hello Yon,

 

great work :-)

 

Daniel

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit), USS Constitution 1:96 (Revell) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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Hi Kevin

 

I think to put all the lower lids in the closed positon is a nice idea - presumably with the scuppers open. Its all rather tricky with various elements (lids / chainplates / hull decoration / wales) all competing for the same space !

 

Hi Daniel

 

Many thanks

 

Cheers

 

Yon

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Hello yon

It's everybody to there own, but I would keep all the lids open. What I would do is make up all the lids for one side, with the rigging through the two eyelets, and the hinges angled, and the fitting of them is very easy, it's just a couple of dots of CA on the hinge and the back edge of the lid. Yep I would jig up up for the hinges. It is also possible if you close the lids, the hinges will not sit correctly against the hull. But as I say it's everybody to there own, but that's my best bet. Regards DAVID

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I've gone with the lids open - Though I think that a closed position might be a nice variation. 

 

I've found the most challenging aspect is keeping the rigging tight so I stiffen them up with CA first.  I think its a case of working out which method suits the indivicual builder and then over time you get better at it so by the time you've finished you're really good at it !

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lol its the cannons i am trying to hide

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I thought I would expand on how I am rigging the gunport lids after a discussion with David (Shipyard sid) as I think it is a bit different but seems to work OK for me. The tricky part is ensuring that the thread is tight which means it must be attached at the right angle to the lid.

 

First I attach the thread to the rings using Gil Middleton's needle method

 

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Then I stretch the thread ensuring that it is at the correct angle to the lid and apply CA to the thread

 

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I then trim the thread to size and use the lid to locate the holes in the hull 6mm above the lid

 

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Then I insert the thread and fix the lid with CA

 

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I'm sure other methods produce as good or better results but after experimenting I think this works the best for me.

 

Yon

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Yon,

 

Just a suggestion and a heads up.  I've read several posts here and other forums that say never use CA on thread in time will become brittle.  I have no experience, but is enough warning for me not use CA. I think using diluted white glue will give you the proper stiffness for this application.   

Happy modeling,

 

Len

 

Current build: HMS Bellerophon semi-scratch from plans of Victory Models HMS Vanguard 

Drydock:  MS Constitution

Completed builds: MS AVS, scratch built Syren, Victory models HMS Fly

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Thanks Len - I have heard that too.  In this case the thread is not being used to hold up the lids - its just made to look as if it is, As there is no tension on the threads I think it will be ok.  I wasn't able to make it work with PVA.

 

It does change the appearance of the thread though (and not for the better) so I would agree that its not an ideal solution.

 

Regards

 

Yon

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Hello yon

Yep I remember my father once started to join rigging cords at times to make things easy at times, I think he used copydex, but over time some of them would come apart. So I reckon Len is 100% correct, but as you say you are just stiffening it to keep it straight and not putting a joint in. DAVID

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Yon,

 

Yes, I did the same.  The end of the thread going through the hole in the hull doesn't need to be glued.  The stiffness of the thread keeps it in.  After I used diluted white glue, just used tweezers to push the open end through the opening in the hull.  I didn't notice any discoloration with the white glue, but know you would with the CA.  Hope this helps.  This also allows to shape thread to look natural, as in foot ropes.

Happy modeling,

 

Len

 

Current build: HMS Bellerophon semi-scratch from plans of Victory Models HMS Vanguard 

Drydock:  MS Constitution

Completed builds: MS AVS, scratch built Syren, Victory models HMS Fly

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