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HMS Bounty by Trig - Artesania Latina - 1:48

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Sorry to hear about not using lights. I'm getting ready to build the Bounty with the kit and bashing it using Harold Hahns plans for full framed and the Anatomy of Ships book to build everything from the top deck down and the kit for everything else. (maybe) I plan to light my interior with pico leds. I found that using other hobbies, such as model railroaders, have things that we can use, such as pico leds from evan designs on modeltrainsoftware.com. I hope this helps.


Love your work


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G'Day Guys,


Browsing my State Library web site recently I came across some high res (~6000-5000px) photographic copies of some Bounty plans you might like.


They are not quite square (slightly trapezoidal) due to the camera being offset but can be fixed in a graphics app.


Each image can be downloaded as a jpg or a ~85MB tif.





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I should expand. Been modelling for neigh on 60 years, but mostly plastic. I have completed, almost, other A/L kits, the Swift and the Harvey. And am currently planking the San Fransisco 2. Bending for the bow proved to be horrible to say the least. The problem was just about fixed with the purchase of an electric bender. Still, need to sit and watch the "pro's". I may have a fix though. Billings boats have a mahogany that is 1.5 mils thick rather than 2. As the planks for the bounty are walnut, they are going to be as bad as they were for San Fransisco 2. They are 2 mil's thick. I'm going to look to see if Billings has a 1.5 plank. They will bend much better.

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On 5/25/2019 at 6:56 PM, Michael Frankovitch said:

A new Member here, first time anywhere. Is this May 2019. I ask because I'm about to start the bounty. Just want to watch the planking of the hull for a start


Hello Michael, it is a current build.  Im still quite a while away from planking though, and to be honest if you want to watch how its done, id go elsewhere :)


ThomasLambo had a good log going of the Bounty build also, but he hasnt updated for a while, and unfortunately it stops just before the planking stage, which i was looking forward to also !

He did mention switching to boxwood planking to achieve the right bends though.


Got my second deck fitted now and starting on the interior walls. Will post some more pictures once i have more done.

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Not posted in a while, but not really done much on it for most of this year. Made some progress recently, but also more problem. Some of the problems caused simply due to stopping and starting, and then forgetting to do something before something else when i eventually pick it back up again.







Thats about all my scratchbuilding done on this deck, did intend some more, but decided not too bother.


I had noticed some fitting issues when doing the 2nd level deck, the plywood deck pieces fitted well at parts and were quite a bit out at others. I thought it was possibly my frames, but i did make sure to set them all well at the beginning. Then when checking mast alignment, i had to alter the aft and middle mast holes as they were off centre, yet the bow mast was perfect.



Can see the pencil mark of where the mast needs to be.


Now im starting to look at fitting the top deck, except the deck itself is well off centre at the bow end. Only upon removing the model from my building jig have i found the problem,which is my whole keel being twisted.






Hard to get it in picture, but i clamped a stringline to the top edge of the keel at either end, and in the middle it has bowed out of line by about 2.5-3mm. Im not sure what has caused it, it should be held fairly straight when  clamped in my jig,


Does anyone have any idea how you would go about straightening this?

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The pots and table are part of the kit, but the plants are bits of lichen scenery stuff for dioramas, you can buy it in small bags. Forget the exact name.


Im no expert so there may be other reasons, but i read that the main reason for sanding the char off is because your wood glue doesnt stick as well on top of it.

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Ive been wondering how my keel could get so twisted, and then i realised i still had the bit of ply that the precut keel came out of.  It is twisted and bowed the same way as the keel section is, so its been mishapen since before i started. I know i checked all my frames and made sure they were good for level and i had cut spacers to space them apart whilst glueing it all up, but i dont think i ever payed much attention to straightness, as it was pretty flexy due to length and thinness of the section.


The bottom rear and front decks have nothing in between them, so i only started to notice some fitting issues on the full length mid decks, which fitted pretty good at both the back and front, with only some of issues in the inbetween frames.   I assumed at the time that my frames maybe werent as good as i thought, or perhaps it was simply issues with the precut ply not being perfect, or maybe a combination of both. If i had payed more attention then, i would have noticed that it was actually due to the twist and bow in the keel that was causing the ply to fit good at either end, but badly in the middle.


But as usual... i didnt pay much attention, and proceeded to glue it all up and keep working, with every piece added making it more and more rigid, but out of line.


I wasnt really sure how to go about fixing it, as it is quite bad, but then i realised the only item running full length and tieing it all together is the middle deck pieces, which if cut in the middle, would let the keel flex a bit. So i cut it about 6mm left of the line marked.





It does let the keel flex, but unfortunately the keel has a gradual bow along most of its length with a bigger twist at one end, which cutting the deck cant really help.

Ive managed to get it on dry and get everything that goes through the decks aligned to where they should be, and am now glueing it on. Having to do it in maybe 3 sections to help glue it correctly to counter the twist, and i dont have enough clamps to do it all at once.




Need to apply a bit of pressure to the deck to get it to take the curve, so i temporarily ran some wood lengthwise below the crossbeams to give the clamps something a bit stronger to clamp on to.




Its not going to be perfect, the frames are a bit one sided in the middle of the boat due to the keel, but i figure i will wait till the deck is glue in place and see what works. Either build my frames out on one side and sand them down a bit more on the other, or alter the deck in the same way, take a bit off one side and add on to the other. 



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