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HMS Bounty by Trig - Artesania Latina - 1:48

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 This is my second build, first was the GJOA by Constructo. Happy enough with that one apart from the sails and rigging work. Sails seemed a bit bulky material wise, and the rigging i was sort of clueless on,the writer of the instruction book seemed to give up long before reaching the rigging stage, so i winged it.

   Hadnt discovered this forum until recently, so hoping to do much better with the HMS Bounty by following some of the advice posted on here. Though whether i do the rigging and sails on this one is yet to be decided.


I mostly lurk here reading other peoples logs for ideas and tips on how to do certain things. Wasnt sure whether to create one myself as my camera isnt the best, but ill give it a shot and hopefully keep it going. I need to get better lighting sorted which will hopefully make the photos a bit clearer.


I started about a week ago. Very impressive box on opening it, well packaged. The drawings (Multiple!), written instructions and picture instructions all look very impressive, though from reading on here it seems these become less impressive further in.

First task was to label all the precut sheets of wood for easier reference from the paper cut sheet, mark the frame numbers and then cut them out.


Next was to sand the laser char off. Started by hand as i was afraid of taking too much off, but ended up using a dremel (cheap brand version) jammed in my vice with a sanding attachment on it to do the heavy work, finishing off with a narrow hand file. Not too sure how much you need to sand off, i dont get them spotlessly clean but the glue seems to hold anyway. Do kit manufacturers leave extra wood on the parts to account for sanding off the laser char?


All sanded and dry fitted. The slip is the Hobbyzone small building slip,purchased for this build. Would have preffered the bigger one as you can rotate it, but didnt have the desk space.

  Though the small one can apparently turn 180 degrees either way, but i dont see how. The arms rotate, but they sit flush on the bottom, so one side can rotate up, but the other cant go down? The instructions werent the best for it, only several parts to it, but i still managed to glue several parts in the wrong place before i realised. 😄


Next task was to stain all the parts. I used Littlefairs Dark Walnut wood stain (Is it alright to mention brand names here?).One coat was enough, any more felt a bit too dark compared to the supplied walnut wood.

  Couldnt decide whether to stain the parts that get glue later or tape them off. Going by google apparently wood glue wont stick to stained wood, but ive seen alot on here glue onto the stain. Did a quick test and the glue seems to hold, so i coated everything. Perhaps not as strong as before, but enough for model purposes hopefully. I intend to follow Thomaslambo's way of doweling, and dowel some of the cross beams into the frames which should strengthen it all quite a bit anyway.


I didnt stain the outside edges to give the planking a better grip, though i forgot some of them will be exposed in the open hull, though i intend to follow other builds again and veneer the exposed ply edges with 0.5mm walnut, think it will look a bit better than exposed ply layers.



Ive fitted half of the frames now. They arent perfect,hoping once the decks etc are on it will square them a bit further.I messed about with the first 2 alot, the fore and aft, trying to get them as square as i could so that i could measure off of them,the ones after that were installed using a combination of 2 levels, a square, and some balsa jammers cut to size.


Turns out my desk or floor has a run, so i had to glue packers to the bottom side of my building slip to get it level first of all. Then i could keep one level on the first frame which was set the day previously, making sure it stays level and then set the other frames with another level.

   The instructions state that the slots on the keel for the frames are at regular spacings. Maybe im interpreting that wrongly, but to me that means they should all be the same? They arent anyway, so i have several balsa jammers cut at 32,35 and 36mm so that i can clamp onto the previous frame when gluing up.

Am also using the middle deck to align the frames, along with the jammers.





First half of the frames are fitted, almost have the lower crossbeams fitted to them all, and thats the stage im at so far. I also moved desk in between those photos, as i outgrew my small one. So the computer is now on the small desk and my modelling stuff has taken over the large desk !


Looking towards the next parts. Id like to scratch build some of the interior cabins,fittings etc as several other build logs have done. I dont really need a wood lathe, but considering getting one to make some columns and bannisters etc for the stairs. We'll see 😉


Edited by Trig
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Thanks Y.T


Took this picture to ask a question, but i think ive found the answer by browsing some of the other build logs, but ill ask anyway.Ive checked through the instructions, but it seems they skip over the fitting of masts.




The mast which is 10mm diameter sits in this slot. The slot on the keel is 10mm, but the block that gets glued over it has only a 6mm gap, and is rectangular.So is the correct way to file the block to have a 10mm hole, or does the mast get cut like a tenon to fit into the rectangular gap?


From another build log it seems shaping the bottom of the mast is the way to go ?



  In case it helps anyone in future, i seemed to be missing the two 61 parts, but turns out there are some mistakes between the cutsheet and photo instructions.


From cut sheet to picture guide -

42 is a crossbeam

42 is 43

43 is 44

44 is 61


Easy enough to figure out, but caused me a bit of head scratching to begin with.

Edited by Trig
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  • 3 weeks later...

So, my bottom decks  are now fitted. As to the question above, whether to file the holes round or tenon the masts later, i went for fitting the decks and then cut the masts to fit later. But mainly because i forgot all about it and went ahead with gluing the decks down. I also forgot to varnish the decks before fitting them.

 I now dont know whether to varnish the decks while still able to access them, or whether it will cause issues when gluing some of the interior fit-out in.





  I painted the ply templates black and left a 0.5mm gap between planks to simulate the caulking.Used a pencil to mark the nails, but for the top deck i think i will try a different method. Possibly drilling holes and using a filler.

Tried a golden oak stain to make the boards look more aged, but i quite like the bare wood look. And then if i age/weather these boards, would i need to weather the entire boat?


 Before fitting the decks i cut some 0.5mm walnut and fitted them over the exposed plywood frame edges, takes the bad look off it. Intend to do this all over.



Since my last post i have received a new LED desk lamp, and a mini wood lathe.  The lamp is fairly helping me see some of the more awkard bits, didnt realise how bad it was before without it.


The wood lathe was a luxury item. I looked at the Proxxon mini lathe, but i couldnt really justify £160 for something i will rarely use, but i noticed on Ebay a few cheap chinese types for £30. Didnt look much, but looked at some youtube videos, and took the risk.  Took just over a week to get here from China, but it works pretty well.  The plastic housing around the motor was broken on arrival, but it works fine.  

  I have thoughts about making a little frame for it so that i am able to use it as a disc sander and perhaps try it with one of the mini circular saw blades.  £30 well spent so far though.




Not quite at that stage yet, but i had to play with it. So ive cut the bow section mid deck crossbeams, and dry fitted them. They will need removed to do the lower deck interior.


My first tests with the lathe. The longer piece was just trying out the diffrent tools and shapes i could make. The top piece was a test of column shape, but i caught too much with the tool and the wood split apart.



Testing another column shape






Not decided on the shape yet. I think a square foot top and bottom would look better. Hardest part will be making multiple columns of whatever shape i decide on, and have them all be the same.  Need to do some more test shapes.


Good fun though !






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Thanks Sam,


Not much progress since my last post.Started to make the kit supplied interior walls, then ill be scratchbuilding some more cabins for the rest of the lower deck. 


Trying to decide whether i add some led lighting for cabin lighting, but i dont know much about electrics. Looks good on the other builds ive saw done with it, but undecided yet.  Think i might need it, probably too dark without it on the interior.

Edited by Trig
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Ive been watching your thread Hellmuht, its a nice build.


Lights are a definite improvement. Can see in the bottom bits with no lights are pretty dark and most of the detail is lost.

Think i will put some in,seems a waste not to.


Need to to do some research on how to do it though,and id quite like to hide the cabling somehow, so need to have a look at that also. Probably behind the cabin walls.

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Yo are right.


I got some 3 mm led in Amazon.  I open some channels on the beams to put the cables on.  Take a look about the doors, they have some kind of windows there.  So I also put some lights behind them to create the "candle effect", then I realized that I was able to open a little hole on the walls, put a bulb in it, painted with red marker, cover it with a kind on mask...... and guess what,  I got a candle effect on the wall too.



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Hi Trig,

Saw your post on Hellmuht's log reference the Anatomy of the Ship book.

I have been collecting this series for 20 years or so and now have a bookshelf full.

I am based in Cornwall  GB  and bought most of these books from second hand book shops.

They started out at  £12 or so and have finished up at  £50 to £80 a copy (depends on how savvy

the seller is and how high his overheads are).   Most appear to have ended up in America and,

for a time, I think that they were published over there.

This series of books hasn't been published (in it's original state) since CONWAY stopped publishing

so eventually the supply will dry up.

I saw the one on Amazon and refused at that price.

There is a site called. ABE BOOKS  which I used to purchase mine.

If you get stuck on anything I am happy to look it up for you.

I check your site and Hellmuht's every few days.

It will probably be Christmas before I start my Bounty so you and Hellmuht are providing extremely valuable

information,  tips. and inspiration for when I start building.

Thanks very much.





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Thank you Sam, those prices are much better!  Handy site for future use also.


Take a look at some of the other build logs on here also,






Funny thing i noticed yesterday on the front of the box. The starboard side is the side to be exposed, according to the instructions.

Yet the box's two larger images of the boat both show it from port side, one exposed and one fully planked.

(Image from another's build log)


Edited by Trig
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6 hours ago, Trig said:


Funny thing i noticed yesterday on the front of the box. The starboard side is the side to be exposed, according to the instructions.

Yet the box's two larger images of the boat both show it from port side, one exposed and one fully planked.



I think the kit box artist just flipped the starboard image so it would look better with both ship pictures going in the same direction. If you look at the sails you can see how the exposed side is from the opposite side from the planked side. Just a case of a graphics guy not knowing the confusion he would start. 




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Hi Trig.

I have this kit as a to do some time. Looks like the kit can be modified extensively.

A good call on using thin Walnut. I will look so much better.

you can get flickering 3mm led that just need a power source. The orange ones with a little red paint on them look like candles or oil lamps. as the flickering is random.

You know I never noticed the front of the box...

I never remove all of the charring from the laser cutting Just the very black burn.


Regards Antony. 

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Thanks Antony,


The walnut is a pain to do in some areas, but will look much better as you say in the end.


I bought and received some Leds after much head scratching on google, but i forgot to get a battery and some other pieces, so havent experimented with them yet. I looked at the premade  ones Helmuht linked, but decided to buy the leds,resistors and wire seperately, both to learn another skill and by wiring my own i think it may be easier to fit them into certain areas.


Got some yellow and orange, but not flickering ones, which sound good. Need to look into making a flickering circuit.


Certainly plenty of scope to customise the interior of the kit, as the kit supplied stuff is fairly limited. Ive just about finishing making the lower holdwell then its onto some scratch building of cabins etc.

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Hi Trig,


I've just come across your build for the first time! It looks like you're making good progress so far, I'll be following with interest.


I would definitely varnish the decks before fitting them. Access with a paint brush would be very difficult if you waited until they are in situ.


That mini lathe is great. Fantastic value!


All the best,



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Thanks Grendel,


Yours is one of the logs i have in my bookmarks for reference and inspiration.Great build, be looking forward to you starting it again :)


The lower decks are glued in position, i thought perhaps i would have problems with wood glue adhesion onto varnish for the walls and columns etc.  But now that ive started onto the walls, i can see that varnishing will be tricky afterwards. Will varnish the decks now and then use superglue or other methods for fixing down whatever else i need to.


How have you planned to fit the masts into the keel footings? Not sure of the correct name, but post #3 has a picture.

I posted above that i was unsure whether to file the rectangular holes round, or cut the bottom of the mast to slot into the rectangular hole.

Probably doesnt make much diffrence either way its done, other than shaping the mast means it has a fixed orientation in future.


And yeah, im pretty happy with the lathe.  Figured £34 wasnt too bad to take a chance on it. Ive ordered some 50mm sanding pads and holder, which should let me turn it into a disc sander also. Once i get them, i can hopefully work out a way of fitting my protractor onto it for filing certain angles.

If you search for "mini bead lathe" on google you get plenty of results for them on Amazon and ebay.


Edited by Trig
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Thanks for your kind words about by build. Considering some of the fantastic Bounty logs on here I feel quite honored that you have bookmarked mine.


I'm itching to get back under way with it and will be in the next month or so. 


I considered drilling out the mast holders in the keel to a hole to fit the masts into, but decided in the end that shaping the foot of the mast to a rectangle will probably give a more secure fit. Definitely more tricky but worthwhile in the end I believe.

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Thanks Grendel. Ive tried one rounded out, and cut the one in the holdwell to fit the rectangle hole.  I believe cutting it square as you say is a better fit, but only if you cut it to the right size, and not too small as i did 😉. Glued some more wood back on and started again. Measure once, cut twice ?


I have my holdwell fitted and glued in position now, and veneered the exposed ply edges visible within. Using post-it-notes to take templates of the curves, handy as they stick themselves.






Not sure how to do the part in the last picture, the supports for the crossbeams. Curve doesnt look as bad in the picture, but ive been unable to manage to bend wood to it, even with my soldering iron. Tempted to just leave them, they are near the next deck floor so probably not really visible in most cases.


Also put strips of wood on the exposed edges of the ply panels for the shot locker and holdwell walls. Made hinges for the door out of some brass left over from my last build, using Casey's Brass Black to blacken it.





Begun to scratch build the rear cabins, using cardboard first for a rough template as its easier to change and try diffrent positions. None of this is glued in position, some alterations and final sanding/varnishing needed.


Once decided on, i marked it out onto some light ply and cut out the doors. I could have just planked the doors, but i didnt have wood thin enough for that, as using leftovers from my previous build again. Ive ordered some 0.5mm strips to be used on the next decks doors.




The middle door has a plastic panel from some packaging, with black paint lines. I intend to use led lights, and this cabin will be lit up.

Funny how everything looks nice,square and smooth untill you take a photo of it!


I wanted some more practice with the wood lathe, so made some columns which then got cut in half and placed against the walls as supports. Not sure about these, i like the look, but wonder if they are too much, thoughts ?









Edited by Trig
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Looking good!

It's always useful having bits and pieces left over from previous builds. I never throw away anything as is surprising how often left overs can come in useful, especially when you start kit bashing 😉


I like the column supports that you've made. I don't think they look out of place at all. You've got the lathe so might as well use it 😊

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Hi Trig,

My Anatomy of the Ship book.  "The Armed Transport Bounty" has finally arrived.

I have a shelf full (bought over the years) but lacked a copy of Bounty.

This book is a must have for this kit.  The detail is better than expected.

I am already planning extras to be fitted and can't wait to start the kit.

Bearing in mind the kit instructions (or in some cases lack of them)

I consider this  £57:75 well spent.


Book from       Abe books website

                         ISLAND BOOKS



Book was as described and extremely well packed.


Also try Just Books site.





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On ‎9‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 9:37 AM, Grendel said:

Looking good!

It's always useful having bits and pieces left over from previous builds. I never throw away anything as is surprising how often left overs can come in useful, especially when you start kit bashing 😉


I like the column supports that you've made. I don't think they look out of place at all. You've got the lathe so might as well use it 😊


I'm a bit of a hoarder when it comes to leftovers,and any delivery boxes/packaging I receive gets kept "just in case". Quite often I need to bin the lot when I can no longer move for cardboard boxes :)


Yeah, I intend to get my moneys worth out of the lathe. Been looking at 3d printers also for the last few days. Not sure how I can work that into the build, but ill try!


Thanks Sam, still not bought one yet but intending to. Been using online images but its not the same.

Looking forward to reading your buildlog!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I work fairly slowly on this. You would think that would mean less mistakes, but i think going a few days between working on it actually causes mistakes at times, due to me forgetting exactly what i was doing.


Got the rear wall sections glued in place, cross beams are still loose as im not sure whether to add any further walls in yet. Still need to add the electrics also.




Started on the forward lower deck walls, scratch built again. The supplied interior details on this kit are very sparse considering its meant to be open. Perhaps they wanted to let people add their own to it?  Im roughly following the layout pictured in the Anatomy of the Bounty book. (picture below linked from ThomasLambo's buildlog). 


Not sure what the the two beams, left and right side, running at an angle into the hold are for or called?




I did the initial layouts, but forgot to mark for the crossbeams. I figured i would do it afterwards, not causing me any problems.


Unfortunately this was all done in bits and pieces over a few days,so I forgot all about them when marking out where the doors would go , and ended up with 2 crossbeams in the middle of my doors,and the third just slightly fouling it.



I did briefly contemplate just making the doors shorter on this section..... but i supposed id better fix it properly 😉


Luckily, since ive added the columns below each crossbeam,i can make some cuts and patch in bits and have the joints hidden behind the columns.

Have moved the whole thing to the right, will patch in a bit on the left, and cut out the section on the right to move the door back into its correct position. 




Teacher always did say i must pay more attention!


Intentions for the rest of the walls on the exposed side is to have them partly built and do a sort of cutaway/fadeaway on them so you can still see everything else beyond them.


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  • 3 months later...

So i took a bit of a break from this.

I think really i was trying to avoid the electrical stuff, just cant get my head around electrics at all. Im back at it now though, and i can get my circuits working even if i dont know why or how they are working, so that'll have to do :)


Had various thoughts on how to hide the leds and cables. I thought about making some lanterns to house the lights, but the leds dont really fit in a lantern scalewise.


Decided on hiding the led within the crossbeam, with a hole to let the light out into the rooms below. Then creating channels on the top side of the crossbeams to run the cables back behind walls, where they can then drop down into the bottom of the model unseen to be wired up later. The next deck will cover these all up, so i should end up with no cables visible anywhere.









Also got myself some sanding discs and a holder that fits in my cheap lathe, and then printed a little table on my 3d printer for it to make into a disc sander. Not as good as a proper one, but better than nothing at the moment.





Onto soldering up the leds next, which is interesting... turns out im not much good at soldering.Burning my fingers yes, soldering no.

Edited by Trig
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It was a very neat solution for the wiring. Just a pity when ive tried soldering it and then adding the heatshrink it no longer fits in my beams.

I could have the lights down inside the boat giving me room to do the soldering etc there, but im considering missing it out completely now.


It seemed a good idea at the time, but im not really enjoying it at the moment, would like to get moving further on with the actual boat build.Might sleep on it tonight and see. 

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  • 3 months later...

So...several months later, and im not doing lights anymore.


I ended not using the wires, as there just wasnt enough room to do all the soldering etc required and have it be hidden from sight to my liking.


  I took another break, and a week ago started on it again but my idea this time was to use fibre optic tubing with one end drilled into an led and the other inside the ship, so that i could have the lights etc anywhere, probably  outside the ship altogether in a box with the batteries.






Im not sure if they would have been bright enough doing it that way, but i intended to fix the tubes in place, and if ended up not using them, i can cut them off later on anyway.

Unfortunately i hit another stumbling block.  Turns out superglue makes fibre optics brittle.  So i glued them all in position, then went to move the free ends a bit and they shattered.


So no lights, i just want to move on now with the build.


Next layer of crossbeams are fixed in, and the next deck being boarded. Progress at last !






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Sorry to hear about not using lights. I'm getting ready to build the Bounty with the kit and bashing it using Harold Hahns plans for full framed and the Anatomy of Ships book to build everything from the top deck down and the kit for everything else. (maybe) I plan to light my interior with pico leds. I found that using other hobbies, such as model railroaders, have things that we can use, such as pico leds from evan designs on modeltrainsoftware.com. I hope this helps.


Love your work


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