US Brig Syren by niwotwill - Model Shipways - scale 1:64 - 2nd wooden kit build & 1st build log

[niwotwill]

Been a busy week but I did manage to finish the pumps. Just need some minor touchup. I looked at many logs of how people did their pumps everything from exotic to pure kit versions and it left me more confused. I finally decided to make my pumps like the kit designed version with some modifications. I built mine from brass rod, round tubing, square tubing and wood. I used Thomas Gahms method of drill holes in the deck to allow the pumps to move and thereby eliminating the dimensional problem of the plunger to cross beam. Everything else is pretty much as drawn on the plans.

I used a piece of 5/32" by 1/16" yellow cedar and drilled 3 1/8" hole spaced for the pumps and center post. Filed the center hole to1/8" square to find the 1/8" square tubing.

 

Used round brass tubing of diminishing sizes to make the pumps, plunger, handles, and brass rod for the plunger rod and handles. All the pieces silver soldered making the individual assemblies.

 

All together it is comprised of 25 pieces. Dry fit on the deck to verify the scale and it all would fit.

 

 

Happy for the look I took it all apart and soaked the parts in distilled white vinegar to etch before painting. Painted parts and assembled the pumps and glued them to the deck.

 

 

Now on to chapter 13 and specifically the fife rail.

Stay Well and Stay Safe

Will  

 

 

 

 

[niwotwill]

Many thanks for all the like and comments it really helps me keep motivated

 

 

Well started the main fife rail by cleaning the char from the two pieces. That was a very delicate procedure and I only broke each piece once. i'm worried about staining the fife rail as I've had so much trouble getting basswood to look good after staining. We'll see how it comes out and if not satisfied I'll make another from AYC. Glued the 1/8" by 1/32" strips together for the mast base using AYC and when adding the hole for the mast I broke one. Oh well make another. Finished making the stanctions (stiles) for the fife rail out of toothpicks.

 

 

Again many thanks for the likes

 

Everything seems to be returning to normal so I guess its time to change my signature. I have a long time friend who always said "make it a good day" and he still says that to me when we say goodby. Even with his dementia,

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[Sea Hoss]

Your pumps look really good... That pinrail is very tricky huh? I remember taking three shots to get it done!

[niwotwill]

Thanks for the looks and comments. I've been following your ECB and it good to hear about your fife rail. Looking at it again this morning makes me worry again so I'm going to stain and see what I get today. (good, bad, or ugly)

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Completed the main fife rail with sanctions and belaying pins. Drilled a hole in the sanctions with a #79 drill bit and glued a short piece of 26 awg copper wire into the hole and a corresponding hole in the deck. Using CA to glue the rail assembly down to the deck.

 

 

Next I have to make the forward hatches and then on to the gallows

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Just a quick note to say thank you for all the comments, likes and looks it keeps me going.

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Got the forward and midship hatch gratings completed. Built the coamings and shot racks and when everything completed applied pre-stain and stain. Glued shot to racks and mounted everything to the deck.

 

 

On to the gallows

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Finished the gallows bitts, riding bitts, fore bitts and now onto the galley stack , bowsprit bit along with 22 eye bolts with split rings.

 

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Spent the last few days making the galley stack, platform and the bowsprit bitt.

The galley stack was made using 1/8" brass tubing, 26 AWG copper wire, and platform from Alaskan Yellow Cedar. The galley platform was like the mast bases and the coaming elsewhere. Using a mitre box I cut the tubing at a 30 degree angle to reverse them making the stack.

No cleanup done after cutting

 

The copper wire was used to form the handles. Using the jaws of needle nose pliers as a mandrel the wire was formed making the two handles. Before soldering the tubes together a .015 was drilled through the tube making a receptacle for the handles. Silver solder was used to flow into the joints rather than making a fillet as in soft soldering. The part was cut to proper lengths making the stacks correct length. Last part was to drill a 1/8" hole in the platform for the stack fitting into.

 

 

The bowsprit bitt took some thinking of how to determine the size and angle for the bowsprit tenon. Using a protractor and the drawing a 20 degree angle was used making the bitt supports. The side support were a .03 piece of AYC.

 

the large piece is the .03 side support and will be cut after the bitt is assembled and when the glue has cured they will be added.

 

 

the front with the deck furniture complete except the eyebolts & rings.

 

 

It's getting very busy but the nice thing is that I mostly used pieces from the scrap box to make all the deck fixtures except Chucks wheel. Now with almost all the wood construction done I'm not sure what I'll feed the scrap box.

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Deck is complete after the eyebolts and rings. Using the kit eyebolts and making split rings out of 26AWG copper wire. I tested the rings for strength against the pull that rigging will exert and they seemed to be strong enough so I didn't solder the rings.

 

 

Moved on the timber heads using the plans for a pattern. Timber heads made from AYC which is easier to carve that basswood keeping sharp edges and smooth surfaces.

 

 

While placing testing how to cut the transom I discovered an old problem surfaced it ugly head again. Way back in fairing I over cut the rear frame causing problems with fitting wales, upper planking, fashion pieces and transom. Spending a lot of time making the stern overcome the problems while still look correct. These modifications caused to top rail to be to high in relation to the transom so when the davits were fit the were also to high above the transom. The fix I came up with was to flatten the top rail, make small notches in transom, and move the davits rearward. So instead of the davits being against to forward edge of the transom the davit angle is now an extension of the rear of the transom. Its not right but it looks ok.

 

 

Now on to the hammock panels when suddenly I realized I had not made the interior boarding ladders so on to ladders then hammock panels.

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Had a good catch while measuring for the boarding panels that was no inboard boarding ladders. Made up a set of ladders using the plans as the pattern. Filed slots in the sides for the steps as before keeping the steps perpendicular to sides. Glued together and when dry stained them golden oak. Now on to hammock cranes and boarding panels. Using the laser panels I carved a recess feature as in the monograph. Sanded the cranes to thin them up slightly and burnish them for better paint adhesion. Spray painted the cranes to get complete coverage before mounting and then just a touchup after assembling. Putting the cranes into the pre-drilled holes was a fiddly process. Just the slightest friction between the cranes pin to the hole walls caused them to bend. Got them in and after letting everything set overnight the wood strip was installed without any problems. Everything made and glued now on to paint. and then the netting. I still am trying to decide if I want to install hammock rolls but I have time to make up my mind.

 

 

I placed the mast rods in to get an idea of how its going to look and when I saw the photos I noticed the masts not being perpendicular and appearing to point away from each other. I use my Apple phone for photos and you can really see the wide angle lens making a bubble lens effect. The masts are correct.

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Finished the hammock cranes rigged the black line and touched up the paint and now ready for netting. Added rudder pendents and I'll add the coiled  lines when I add them for the rigging.

 

 

Ruddert pendents

 

 

Netting tomorrow

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

Finished lacing up the first starboard aft netting. I haven't trimmed the netting as I plan to wait until I look at it again tomorrow with rested eyes. I was able to use admirals needle threader to pull the thread through the top outboard holes in the cranes and it really made it fairly easy to get everything straight and secure. Lacing the inboard side onto the wood was another story though. I use the clips to hold the threads out of the way while working on other areas.

 

Just couple photos of the completed section

 

 

Ive decided not to put the hammock rolls in the cranes for several reasons. The first is I like the uncluttered look and they would hide some detail when the model is displayed in a case on a shelf. Another thought that comes to mind is on painting and drawings of the Tripoli engagement some had bed rolls up and some did not leaving me wondering. Just another thought is if they were up during an engagement all the carefully coiled rigging would not be the case so why have both? Just my opinion though.

 

Make it a good day --- My dear old friend Carl "Nick" Saids salutation to you whenever you parted. succumbed on May 20th to his battle with time. May he rest in peace

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[niwotwill]

ONE MONTH LATER

[niwotwill]

Like so many people we complain and bad mouth Model Shipways but I must say that their customer service really came through for me.

 

 

I've been away for a month visiting friends in Colorado but before I left I sent a scorching email with photos to Model Shipways about the poor casting quality of the gallery windows. While away I received an email apologizing and that there would send new hand picked pieces. Today ai received the new gallery pieces of much better quality. 

 

Pictures of original pieces notice the windows filled in cornice bottom missing and floral rope not distinguishable.

 

These are the replaced very acceptable pieces.

 

Some cleaning and painting is all that is necessary

 

 

A BIG THANK YOU TO MODEL SHIPWAYS CUSTOMER SERVICE

 

 

[niwotwill]

Were home from Colorado. Spent quality time with friends and enjoyed the beautiful scenery and weather. Spent the day tying knots and lacing the netting on the hammocks. I had ALMOST completed the longboat awhile back but now that the netting is done its time to finish. All the little parts need to be made so I slowly got going again. 

 

Just a picture of the netting completed

 

What a job my hand are tired and my eyes are blurry so its time to rest on the 4th.

 

Happy July 4th 

 

[bobandlucy]

Happy July 4th to you too! Details on your ship are amazing!

 

Model Shipways does have great service and guarantee. They might do themselves a favor with enhanced QC, though.

 

Bob

[niwotwill]

Slow progress with the little fiddly bits for finishing the longboat but there are finished. Spent a couple days making the sweeps and oars and I'm so glad for spares. Finally got all 4 oars and 16 sweeps finished yesterday and stained them this morning. Got the copper gudgeons and pintles colored black (liver of sulfur) and glue in place. Making the oarlocks was a bit of a challenge as I didn't trust my ability to glue the wood on the top cover and then free hand drill the holes with any kind of accuracy so I took a different approach. I took a block of wood the same size as the oarlock pad and made a set up in the mill to drill the holes deep enough to make 8 oarlock pads. Leaving the block of wood in the setup I sliced of .025 layers like bread. Painted the oarlock pads and glued them to the cap rail and was able to insert .026 copper wire. That done more liver of sulfur to make everything black. (side note LOS does not stain wood or paint)

 

 

 

I made chocks to mount on the gallows for the longboat to rest and glued it in place. Tomorrow once the glue has set I lash the sweeps in place and secure the longboat to the rings on the deck.

 

[niwotwill]

Longboat finished and lashed down with sweeps, oars, rudder set in place. Lashing the boat down to the gallows and rings on the deck was very time consuming and difficult working inside the bulwarks. Not much to show for all the work but here's a few photos.

 

 

Now I'm on to full time working on the Syren and should see some visual progress as I'll start the bowsprit. But first I have to go to Lowes for a 1/4" dowel having no idea where the kit piece went it was here when I inventoried the kit at the beginning.

 

 

[WalrusGuy]

She's looking great Will!! 

 

3 minutes ago, niwotwill said:

But first I have to go to Lowes for a 1/4" dowel having no idea where the kit piece went it was here when I inventoried the kit at the beginning.

You can also order from ModelExpo, they have an excellent replacement policy! 

[niwotwill]

Thanks for the comment it means a lot after seeing your Syren and all the likes

 

Wow!!!! is this thing going to be big.

Making and fitting bowspirt

 

 

[niwotwill]

Spent the morning in final shaping of the bowsprit and finish sanding and then staining. This afternoon was spent making bees and sits. 3 hours of studying the plans measuring by copying the plans and cutting parts. Finally got everything glued and ready for staining tomorrow. And I'm making everything our of AYC its much easier to use and finish.

 

 

 

 

Looking at the bees it looks as if the sheaves are misplaced but its because the bees are in opposite positions.

 

Again thanks for following and all the likes

[niwotwill]

Bowsprit completed. As stated I made all the pieces from AYC. Everything was straight forward with the exception of the fairlead which made me think of how to drill holes on a radius. Supriseingly the method was fairly simple. I cut a square piece of material and found the center. Mounted on a rotating table mounted to the mill bed. Using a laser alignment tool mounted in the mill to locate the marked center. Moved the table to the radius and drilled the 6 holes at 21 degree angle spacing. Amazing that when aligned with the drawing it was almost perfect. Now just a matter of sanding the outside radius and filing the inside radius.

The chocks were a matter of taking a piece of 1/32" x 1/16" and filing the angle and slicing off pieces using the razor saw and mitre with the stop set to 1/32".

The saddle for the spirt sail yard sling was made be sanding using a thickness sander to thickness of 1/64" stained and soaked to be bent around the bowsprit. Same process was used for the top piece.

The iron bands are simulated by using heat shrink tubing cut to the proper width and once shrunk they don't move.

All the parts made and stained were assembled to the bowsprit previously made.

 

Couple photos of the completed bowsprit assembly on the Syren

 

 

 

I've really got to clean the Syren as the photos really show everything including dust.

 

[niwotwill]

Completed making all the parts of the bowsprit,  jib boom, and flying jib boom. The jack staff was straight forward using the Proxxon lathe to shape a dowel to size leaving the cap.

The travelers were made from 20 AWG copper wire bent around a larger dowel and soldered to a circle. Using jewelers sizing pliers to hold the circle at 2mm line pinched the circle which caused the traveler shape. Putting the traveler on the sizing pliers at the needed diameter and pinching the traveler causing the middle to squeeze to shape. Wrapped the center with 30 AWG copper wire simulating the rope wraps. Secured the wraps with solder. Used the same process to make the flying jib boom traveler only smaller.

The securing bands are two circles with a wire between. Used the 20 AWG copper wire that was flattened by hammering on an anvil creating a 3/64" wide strip. Hammering hardened the strip. I annealed the strip before wrapping around a dowel to make circular bands. The 2 bands were placed with a piece of 20 AWG wire between and soldered. Cut excess wire from the joint and filed to clean flash.

Now on to painting and seizing blocks for the bowsprit cap and flying jib boom tip.

 

Travelers ready for paint

 

Jib boom and flying jib boom link (with travelers)

 

All Bowsprit, jib boom, and flying jib boom parts ready for paint

 

 

[niwotwill]

Bowsprit, jib boom, and flying jib boom constructed and painted. Tried to make the dolphin striker with individual pieces as described in the monograph but not satisfied with my results. So I made it out of Boxwood I had laying around. Made a copy of the drawing and glued it to the material using sticky glue. Drilled the holes and then cut it out with the scroll saw. Filed and sanded to final shape adding the blocks.

image glued to wood with holes drilled

 

part cut from piece

 

Finished dolphin striker ready for final sanding and painting

 

Completed and ready for the hearts to be added

 

Next the hearts and splash guard

 

 

[niwotwill]

Well back in shop I go. We were planning on taking to month of August to tour Maine to Massachusetts coasts for lobster and museums but with the Delta variant and my health we cancelled.

After breaking all the open heart while cleaning the laser burn I made new out of boxwood. Served up 9cm of line making a loop with a faux splice per David Antscherl's tffm vol 4. Made loops at the ends and attached to the open hearts. Served up 4.3cm making loops at the ends leaving the severing thread to be use for seizing the loop. Seized the line around the heart. Lashed the hearts to the bowsprit with tan thread per monograph.

Finished up the bowsprit parts and glued them to the ship. Made the splash guard for painting and mounting. When all items dried overnight I lashed the gammon 9 turns and finished per tffm vol 4.

 

 

Today I'm making rope for the rigging. Not very exciting.

 

 

[niwotwill]

Made the rope necessary to get the bowsprit rigged. 24 feet of tan .008/010, 48 feet of .018 very dark brown, 24 feet .021 very dark brown and 48 feet of .012/.014 very dark brown this should be enough to give me plenty of error margin.

I borrowed an idea from _SalD_'s Syren log only I ground the teeth off rather than use smooth jaw alligator clips.. I formed a 1/16" brass rod and soldered it to the alligator clips but when a heart was held the clips made dents so I found off the teeth. I ordered some from Amazon if my modified one don't work as hoped.

 

Before I ground off the teeth

 

After the teeth ground off

 

Tomorrow rigging starts. A very exciting day as it represents the end is in sight ie a light in the tunnel that's not a train.

 

[niwotwill]

A lot of progress since the last update. Got the bobstays finished using my little alligator clip jig to space the closed hearts. It took quite a bit of time but all went well. I just finished the martingales inner, outer, and back all that is left are the foot ropes. I'm running a little test of conditioning the foot rope lines. I thinned LePages white glue and soaked the lines before hanging them to dry with a weight. LePages glue drys translucent when thick and when thinned it become almost transparent so we'll how how the test piece looks in the morning.

 

[allanyed]

Clever set up with the alligator clips!!   I am thinking of pre-rigging frapped running out tackles which will then be hooked to the bulwark and carriage and this is a nice little set up I might try.   Thanks for sharing.

Allan

[niwotwill]

I straightened the foot rope line yesterday but I kept putting it off all day to make lower masts. I promised myself to do the foot ropes tomorrow. In an  earlier post I mentioned that I used heat shrink tubing for the iron bands on the bowsprit with good results. I liked the results so much that I'll do them on the masts. When cutting a 1/16" piece with parallel lines it took many trys to get 3 that were needed so I had to figure a new method. I kept trying to design a jig that would hold the tubing while keeping a set dimension to cut with a #11 blade. Had a wow moment and remembered a tool I had from years ago and dug it out of the closet. Don't remember who make it but its vacuumed formed plastic with a handle holding a razor blade for chopping.

 

Heres a photo

 

I tested the cutting and it made a perfect slice of the tubing.

 

The tubing has white lettering that is easily removed with paint thinner. So now all I had to do was glue a piece of wood perpendicular to the backing edge at the correct dimension.

 

Looking at the pictures I can see it was made/sold by Amati. I chopped up enough of the rings for both masts in 5 minutes. Must keep track of tools I have and don't use regularly.

I shaped the masts by hand using a mini plane to get the 4 sides for the square and then turned the taper in the Proxxon lathe. Next the cheeks needed to be shaped with the curved top and reliefs cut to clear the iron bands. Next was to glue the cheeks on the mast and put on the iron bands that go over the cheeks. Glued the fish to the front and it was ready for the final fittings. ONLY

 

 

I used the material from the kit and you can see the mast at the top of the picture. The wood colors were not what i had hoped for and I don't like the look. The lower mast is a new mast with material from another kit. A much nicer color and I will use wood strips from the kit also to match the mast.

Fore mast and main mast

 

mounted on the model

 

Comments appreciated