HMS Terror by ObviousNewbie - FINISHED - OcCre - Scale 1:75 - first wooden ship build

[Wahka_est]

Good suggestion on the chain plates. I will follow your lead there.

Have seen that making some small adjustments by buying better fittings will make a big difference.

 

Robert your 2nd planking look really good!

[Baker]

Looks great. Well done
Greetings from the other side of the Schelde river 

[ObviousNewbie]

Thnx Patrick, you have to do something when you're not allowed to go out, right? 🙂 Honestly if I didn't't have the ship to be working on, I'd be going crazy already..

[Baker]

I have to go work. The chemical industry in Belgium must continue to produce (and pay taxes to the state...)

 

Hopefully we will remain Corona free        ☠️

[ObviousNewbie]

6 hours ago, Backer said:

I have to go work. The chemical industry in Belgium must continue to produce (and pay taxes to the state...)

 

Hopefully we will remain Corona free        ☠️

Good luck, take care!

[ObviousNewbie]

Small update, fitted the second planking garboard:

Sorry to spam, but I feel really proud about this one. Couldn't get my head around how to approach it, but eventually worked it out. Dry fitted parts of the keel to check fitting:

Question: any tips on how to cut stealers from the second planking wood? The sapelli used is very brittle, cutting it exactly is almost impossible, especially with the sharp edges used for the stealers. Thnx for your answers!

 

Edited March 26, 2020 by ObviousNewbie

[Baker]

Take a look at this. Here you will find all the answers.

http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

 

idea

Planks normally don't stop at a sharp point.
You can cut your garboard a little (red line) with a sharp knife

Then your plank below the garboard doesn't stop at a sharp point.

It is important to slowly taper the planks at the bow. Otherwise, you will run into problems later.

 

Something like this 

 

 

 

[ObviousNewbie]

Finalising second planking, question though: which sanding paper is best to send down the 0,6mm Sapelli? Sanded down the first layer with P180, but that might be a bit too much. I've got P320 and P400 lying around, any suggestions?

[Wahka_est]

I used only 400 for 2nd planking.

[Wahka_est]

One mistake i did and hope you can avoid it. Dryfit bowsprit together with bow keel so you get the keel into right spot. My bowsprit didnt align with keel and i didnt dryfit bowsprit.

Will save you quite a deal of headache if you do that.

[ObviousNewbie]

9 hours ago, Wahka_est said:

One mistake i did and hope you can avoid it. Dryfit bowsprit together with bow keel so you get the keel into right spot. My bowsprit didnt align with keel and i didnt dryfit bowsprit.

Will save you quite a deal of headache if you do that.

Thnx for the tip! Dryfitted them separately, indeed the bowsprit doesn't touch the bow piece, will correct before continuing.

[ObviousNewbie]

Small update: second hull planking is finished 🙂

Some minor details need to be added, followed by the last sanding. Made plenty of mistakes, and you'll probably see more I haven't even noticed, but I will continue the build, to learn and improve.

 

Working with the veneer was a challenge, it took me some time to figure out how to cut to size without splintering but I got there. Next step, installing the ice-shocks, and then the keel.

[harlequin]

This model is on my build list....I have a fascination with Franklin’s mission to find the north west passage and the disaster that ensued....your build is looking good and don’t get to hung up over mistakes, we all make them, it is the only way we learn.....show me a man who has never made a mistake and I will show you a man who has never lived....keep up the good work.

Edited April 2, 2020 by harlequin
Grammer

[Wahka_est]

Hi,

 

Really nice work!

Will you do the copper plating also? You plan to paint the hull?

 

V

[Baker]

Well done. 

Congrats 👍

[ccoyle]

You have passed a very significant milestone with the completion of the hull planking. Cheers!

[ObviousNewbie]

2 hours ago, Wahka_est said:

Hi,

 

Really nice work!

Will you do the copper plating also? You plan to paint the hull?

 

V

Thnx! Still thinking about the bow plating, seems very complex to do, but I will test ebony stain to paint her, as soon as I can get my hands on it. I'm a bit concerned about glueing the catheads on paint, stain seems to be the better choice, but that still needs to be tested of course. Correct me if 'm wrong, but the ice shocks follow the curve of the top of the bulwarks, correct?

[ObviousNewbie]

17 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

You have passed a very significant milestone with the completion of the hull planking. Cheers!

Thnx, it feels good to finish it, a little sense of achievement 🙂

[Keith S]

4 hours ago, ObviousNewbie said:

. Correct me if 'm wrong, but the ice shocks follow the curve of the top of the bulwarks, correct?

You are correct. 

 

[ObviousNewbie]

Good morning from sunny quarantined Belgium 🙂 Before starting work in the garden, had some time to update: ice-shocks are in full swing:

 

Almost done, then time to sand again. Previous sanding experience taught me to do this ascitity outside, and the weather is up for it. Just a couple of more layers and we're good to go.

 

Decided to go against the plans which call for covering the whole length of the hull and then cut away the ice shock part that needs to be replaced. Had no desire to take a knife to the second planking, so cut the stern end of the ice-shock to shape:

 

This will eventually be sanded down to a curve, but it makes more sense somehow.

[Keith S]

I wish I had thought of that. You've done a nice tidy job there.

[ObviousNewbie]

Hi all, I need some advice on how to proceed. First of all, half of the ice-shock sanding is complete:

But while sanding the bow, the wood started misbehaving:

Probable cause: I bent the planks using the plank bender clamp and I think the damage I did to the planks is showing... Tried evening it with P180 and P400, to no avail. Any suggestions on how to correct this?

 

Thnx in advance for your help!

[Keith S]

My goodness. Is that what the plank bender did? 

 

I think what I would do here is take some very thin CA -the kind with very low viscosity that can wick into the wood fibres. This will "petrify" the wood so it will not continue to splinter as you sand it. Then sand it carefully and use wood filler to smooth out any cracks. Sand first, then apply wood filler and sand again. 

 

Also, in this area the channel chocks begin to narrow quite a bit towards the bow. You may be able to sand all this away anyway. The damage on yours is right in the area where I sanded right through the first layer of planks to begin tapering them. I'll try to find a picture. 

 

Additionally if you don't mind a bit of advice, in my opinion you should taper the chocks more at the stern. Where they join onto the "fashion piece" it looks nicer if they are thinned down to about the same thickness. 

 

Mine is far from perfect but I the shape conforms to what we can see in historical plans.

 

 

 

Edited April 8, 2020 by Keith S

[ObviousNewbie]

Thnx Keith, your CA solution worked, managed to sand smooth without doing any further damage 🙂

 

But then I found something more fundamentally wrong: a construction error 😞 When fitting the bow I noticed the channel shocks were wider than the bow piece:

I got my height measurements for the shocks all wrong, not measuring at the bow. I couldn't really sand the shocks further down as the damage underneath from the plank bender would be significant, but I also didn't want to leave the bow as such. So I came up with an idea: I used a piece of spruce where the bow piece was in to cut out a small extension to the piece:

Fry fitted kit looked like this:

And this is what she looks like after sanding:

So basically, I gave HMS Terror a Nose Job 🙂

 

Not historically accurate, I know, but given the options, I thought it best to proceed this way...

 

installed the aft keel and rudder base as well, so moving on to the top of the deck (finally). A question about this stage: plans call for a 2 by 2mm strip to be bent to decorate the base of the bulwark, including the bow. How best to bend such a delicate piece? Steam?

[Keith S]

That little filler piece will be virtually un-noticeable on the finished ship. 

 

I forget the boaty word for that strip of wood you're talking about, but it's there to allow water to run onto the deck instead of standing in the joint between deck and bulwark. I think it's called a "waterway" now that I think about it. Anyway the 2x2 strip should be bendy enough to take the curve without too much trouble. I just stood the strips in a cup of hot water with the end that was to go at the bow would be a little more flexible. 

 

[ObviousNewbie]

Hi all, hope you're all ok and hanging on..

 

Small update and a question: first of all finished the railings and started on the mirror:

I didn't trim the edges of the ice shocks, was too concerned I'd run into the same issues as I had with the front of the shocks.

 

My question: I'm planning on adding a layer of clear cellophane to the back of the windows to mimic glass, but I'm doubting as to how to paint the background cover. Occre paints theirs bright blue i their videos, but that seems a bit too much. Tested with black, but that's just too dark, especially as the rest of the ship will be painted black as well. Any thoughts?

[Wahka_est]

Nice progress!

 

Mine is blue. Maybe some orange/yellow to mimic the candlelight inside?

[Keith S]

Your plan to use clear plastic is exactly what I did. For colour I used a royal blue, but I blended it with black and painted layers from lighter blue at the top to darker at the bottom. It's very difficult to photograph this, I just discovered. But if you just mix black and blue so it's lighter at the top and darker at the bottom, I find it creates an illusion of depth. The clear plastic "window" is a good idea.

Edited April 16, 2020 by Keith S

[Baker]

The colors that Keith S uses are beautiful.

I once experimented with silver paint on the inside. 
Don't do this, not a good solution.

[ObviousNewbie]

Thnx Keith, worked like a charm! Allthough not that visible in the picture, as I also aged the cellophane a bit..