HM Brig-Sloop Speedy by glennard2523 - Vanguard Models - 1/64

[Glenn-UK]

4 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

One possible problem to check is that extra height doesn't prohibit the cannons from going through the port, I'd rig one up and poke it through one with a dry-fitted piece on the sill.  I know I started to do that on my little Nelson project and determined the cannons weren't high enough to allow it. Painting them red (or whatever color) helps conceal the different layers of wood.

I was planning to check ports with an assembled cannon before fitting linings. I have painted the openings red already.

[dzerbato]

1 hour ago, DelF said:

Is this what you remembered? This is a different issue - I think Chris is referring to the method he has used on other models whereby the gun port openings are pre-formed by frames within the bulwarks. This would not be practical for Speedy as the bulwarks are too thin. 
 

Our issue is about lining the inside of the gun ports to neaten the cut surfaces. 
 

Derek

Yes, my memory failed me again. Thanks for finding that.

[Glenn-UK]

This morning I completed the sanding of the hull. I applied a small drop of my super phatic glue where there were some very minor gaps and then sanded over so the sawdust could bind with the glue. It seemed to work out very nicely.

 

I also painted the gun port openings red. I may still line the gun ports at a later stage, but this will be after I have assembled the gun carriages and after I have checked to see if there is any alignment issues with adding linings.

 

I have also fitted the prow, keel and rudder posts as well.

Edited March 11, 2020 by glennard2523

[DelF]

Very smooth! I've ordered some of your Super Phatic glue - you should be on commission.

 

Derek

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, DelF said:

Very smooth! I've ordered some of your Super Phatic glue - you should be on commission.

 

Derek

My local hobby shop recommended the super phatic glue to me and I have found it to be a very useful glue.

[Glenn-UK]

I have nave now added the wales and marked the waterline. I then placed some tape above the waterline.

 

I then started adding the copper tiles. I'm not very at the coppering but I know it will look OK once completed. Last time I used Evo stick instant impact which allowed time for the tile to be moved around and position correctly. I started this task using ca clue and some of the tiles became stuck fast before I was really happy with the position.

 

I have found the best method (for me) was to apply a thin coat of ca for approx. 3 tiles on the hull and then to position the tiles one by one.

 

Edited March 11, 2020 by glennard2523

[DelF]

Crikey, you're fast!

 

I've been thinking ahead and wondering what glue would be best for coppering. CA makes me nervous at the best of times and I can just imagine it squeezing out of the plates and spoiling the surface. Does applying the CA to the hull help you avoid that, and are you using gel? Would Super Phatic work?

 

Derek

[Glenn-UK]

2 hours ago, DelF said:

Crikey, you're fast!

 

I've been thinking ahead and wondering what glue would be best for coppering. CA makes me nervous at the best of times and I can just imagine it squeezing out of the plates and spoiling the surface. Does applying the CA to the hull help you avoid that, and are you using gel? Would Super Phatic work?

 

Derek

I think eco stick instant impact is the best glue. I used that when adding the 3000 tiles on HMS Victory. The super phatic may be ok, but I would think you might need to wait a few mins so it gets tacky before appling the tiles.

 

I did start by appling a small dollop of ca to the centre of the tile, and positioning using my twezzers. That method didn't really work for me so I opted for a small thin layer of ca on the hull and postioning using my metal pointer tool. I found I could move along at a reasonable pace and most copper tiles could be positioned a bit before the glue set. I did have to rip off and discard some really badly positioned tiles. If I had been more patient I should have gone to the local shop to get the evo stick glue before starting.

Edited March 11, 2020 by glennard2523

[DelF]

Thanks, that's helpful. I'll give evostick a go.

 

Derek

[AlanDavison]

Superphaltic glue works extremely well. Just spread it onto you wooden hull, I use my fingers, and the apply the copper tile. A little heat from a small iron or similar also helps. Once glued it’s there for life!

[Glenn-UK]

I have now completed the copper tiling of  port side of the hull. It is not my best work by a long way but it looks OK (from a distance!!!!).

 

I am planning to add a small 1mm strip along the upper edge to make it look a bit neater. I have just remembered, when I copper plating the HMS Victory I added a 1mm strip along the water line before I started the copper tiling which made getting a neat edge much easier. I should have done this for this build, as it can always be removed without to much effort afterwards if required.

 

I have also added the copper tiles to the rudder.

 

[DelF]

I like the idea of a strip along the edge of the copper. Another idea I’ll borrow!

 

Derek

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, DelF said:

I like the idea of a strip along the edge of the copper. Another idea I’ll borrow!

 

Derek

It worked really well on my Victory build, a 1mm by 1mm strip is very bendy and not very visual.

[glbarlow]

3 hours ago, DelF said:

I like the idea of a strip along the edge of the copper. Another idea I’ll borrow!

 

Derek

As another option: After establishing the waterline on my Vanguard I ran a row of full plates on top of and even with the top of those. It neated up the look quite a bit. 

Every time I look at it...so many plates...Speedy is much more manageable. I still won’t do it but glad you guys are enjoying it. 

Edited March 12, 2020 by glbarlow

[DelF]

She looks very neat Glenn. 

 

Derek

Edited March 13, 2020 by DelF

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, DelF said:

She looks very neat Glen. 

 

Derek

Looks can be very deceptive. Not so neat in some places when you are up close to my Speedy build

Edited March 12, 2020 by glennard2523

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, glennard2523 said:

Looks can be very deceptive. Not so neat in some places when you are up close.

I think maybe he meant this Glenn😬

[Glenn-UK]

16 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I think maybe he meant this Glenn😬

I was referring to my Speedy build, sorry for any  confusion.

[glbarlow]

It’s not often there are two Glenn’s 😊

[Bobbuild]

Great job on coppering but when I do my Speedy I am going to opt out. I am not really the biggest fan of coppering.

Edited March 13, 2020 by Bobbuild

[glbarlow]

41 minutes ago, Bobbuild said:

Greet job on coppering but when I do my Speedy I am going to opt out. I am not really the biggest fan of coppering.

Me too

[Glenn-UK]

I have not been totally happy with some of my copper plating. As I progressed with this this task I did find the best method that worked to get the plates to fit neatly.

 

I did rip off some copper plates that could have been fitted better and replaced them. However when I checked the copper plating on the rudder with the copper plating on the hull I noticed my water line was too low, by 1 row of tiles.

 

It would be possible to leave the existing copper plates and add the additional plates but I have now decided to rip off all the copper plates fitted and start again. I have ordered some new 1:64 scale copper plates from Cornwall Model Boats (which were the same size as the kit supplied plates, i.e. 19 x 6mm) 

 

I might revert to using the evo stick impact glue as well and I will add the 1mm x 1 mm strip along the water line before I start the copper plating.

 

Based on the time taken so far I would expect it will take approx. 2 day per hull side to plate the hull.

Edited March 14, 2020 by glennard2523

[VTHokiEE]

18 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

 

I did rip off some copper plates

What did you do/use to take off the plates?

[Glenn-UK]

2 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

What did you do/use to take off the plates?

I just used my craft knife to pick at a corner of a copper plate and once I had lifted an edge it was easy to pull the plate away. They all came off without too much effort and it took about 60 mins in total to remove approx. 460 copper plates.

 

I could tell the difference between the plates I had secured using thin ca glue and medium ca glue.

 

I have now sanded the hull to remove the residual ca glue and I will be good to go again once the new copper plates have arrived.

[VTHokiEE]

Thanks! I haven’t done any coppering yet but I’m certain there will be some plates I have to remove when I do a build with them. I wasn’t certain if simply pulling them off would rip at the planks too much.

Edited March 14, 2020 by VTHokiEE
Fixing my phone’s autocorrections

[Glenn-UK]

After removing the copper plates yesterday I took time to study the build photos in the manual and information on plan sheet 4.

 

At the widest point it will require 12 rows of copper plates, ignoring the small slithers on top of the 12th row. At the bow end there are 5 rows of copper plates and at the stern there are 8 rows of copper plates.

 

I decided to make a small jig comprising 12 copper plates on a flexible Vernier backing to mark the position of the water line at the widest point, as shown in the photo below.

Noting there were 5 rows copper plates at the bow, I marked them off. The incorrect water line position from my first coppering is still visible in the photo below. coming in after 4 rows of copper plates.

Using the copper plated rudder part as a guide I then marked off the 8 rows of copper plates at the stern. Again the incorrect water line is still visible on the photo below, coming in after 7 rows of copper plates.

.

Using a 1mm by 1mm strip of wood taped to the hull I was then able to indicate the correct position for the waterline. I verified the position at different points along the hull using the photos in the manual as a point of reference. I was then able to draw the waterline using the 1mm x 1mm strip as the guide. I then removed the wood strip and used some 2mm masking tape to highlight the position of the waterline. As a final check I used my water line marking tool to double check the water line position indicated by the tape. I am now very happy the water line is correctly marked. I will redo the copper plating early next week when I get the replacement copper plates from Cornwall Model Boats (probably on Tuesday). As the copper plating progresses I will glue a strip of 1mm x 1mm along the water line so that I get a really neat looking finish to top of the copper plating.

Edited March 15, 2020 by glennard2523

[DelF]

This is helpful, thanks. Makes me realise I need to be very careful when I get round to coppering.

 

Derek

[Glenn-UK]

Today I did a test fit of the completed Rudder assembly. With a bit of experimentation with the fitting I found the pintle braces worked best for me with the top one located in the rudder and the lower two fitted to the stern post.

The tiller arm has also been assembled and painted but will not be fitted until after the rudder is finally installed.

 

I used masking tape (see "John Builds Iconic Military Models YouTube channel) to add the two banding strips to the top of the rudder as can be seen in the photo below, this worked really well.

 

[DelF]

Looking good. I've not seen the masking tape idea before - I found the youtube channel you mention but there's loads of videos. Any idea which one covers tape? As an alternative, I find shrink wrap tube useful for these sorts of jobs - cut a slice off an appropriately sized tube apply a heat gun and you're done. I got about 100 year's worth of black tube from Amazon for peanuts.

 

Derek

Edited March 16, 2020 by DelF

[Glenn-UK]

9 minutes ago, DelF said:

Looking good. I've not seen the masking tape idea before - I found the youtube channel you mention but there's loads of videos. Any idea which one covers tape? As an alternative, I find shrink wrap tube useful for these sorts of jobs - cut a slice off an appropriately sized tube apply a heat gun and you're done. I got about 100 year's worth of black tube from Amazon for peanuts.

 

Derek

Hello Derek

Go to the link below (Part 47 of HMS Victory: Mizzen Lower Mast) and it starts at 10 min 30 seconds into the video.