HM Brig-Sloop Speedy by glennard2523 - Vanguard Models - 1/64

[glbarlow]

12 hours ago, glennard2523 said:

 I may go out a purchase a travel iron 

I've successfully built a number of models using my own method of planking. I wish I'd discovered Chuck's method sooner, I used it on my current model (my simple little project after a long layoff). I am amazed at the results and just how much you can bend planks. I used the travel iron as Chuck suggested at some point in his videos or tutorials and think it’s by far the best approach. Wetting the wood with just my finger then applying the (steam) iron to the wood bent and held by clamps heated and dried the wood quickly, and as someone has pointed out "presses" the wood in the bargain.  I think you''ll enjoy the decision to get the iron - the travel size works best because you really only need the front corner.

Edited February 27, 2020 by glbarlow

[ASAT]

Glenn, you should start a progress log of your Lady Nelson, maybe not a build log but we could see what you’re working on and how it’s going.... or not.... no pressure, just always enjoyed your logs..... I like to see as many examples of planking success as possible.... 😀 I have a tough one coming up with my Revenge.....

[Glenn-UK]

I have now completed the planking of the 3 stern patterns without any problems. I thought I would share the method I used for shaping the planks for the top stern pattern, which has the window openings.

 

I thought I would start with a picture of my workstation which I had set up for this task. I had all the necessary tools, materials and adhesives ready to hand. I used the thick CA glue to fix the planks to the pattern. I then applied a thin wash of the super phatic glue so it would bond with the joints. I then gave the top of the planks a very light sand so some of the sawdust could, where necessary, bond with the glue.

The first difficult plank to cut to size cover the lower section of the windows. I positioned a plank and then marked the position of the required cut-outs (from the reverse side).

With the position of the cut outs marked I then placed the plank on a piece of tape, so there was less chance of the wood splitting along the grain. In the picture below I have started to  make the first cut ( far right).

The tape backing worked and I was able to remove the cut-outs without any problems.

Once I double checked the plank would fit OK I used the CA glue to fixed the plan to the stern pattern.

I continued to plank, noting that I opted to removed the remaining excess wood around the window frame after each plank had been fitted. The two pictures below show the end results. The first one is before the edges were cut and sanded and then second one is after the sanding. I did adjust the left window (top right) after I took these pictures. After a careful fine sanding of the planked area I will apply a few coats of matt varnish.

[dzerbato]

You are progressing quite nicely. I'm glad to see all these Speedy build logs.

[glbarlow]

7 hours ago, ASAT said:

Glenn, you should start a progress log of your Lady Nelson, maybe not a build log but we could see what you’re working on and how it’s going.... or not.... no pressure, just always enjoyed your logs...

Thank you, i kinda enjoy writing them. Don’t tell anyone but I started one on that other site🙃there was so little interaction I sort of abandoned it. I plan to start one here later to add to the Speedy journals. 

[ASAT]

Yeah, sometimes it feels like you are doing the log for your own posterity, not a lot of interaction on some .... don’t know why some are more visited/commented on than others. Popularity of the kit and skill of the builder maybe? Look forward to your Speedy though.

[ASAT]

Glennard, your stern is coming along nice, I am always leery when shaping ports and especially rudder/mast holes, seems like planking just loves to split when you are doing round holes.... She seems a lot smaller than I thought.... camera angle or is she petite?

[Glenn-UK]

I have started the 2nd planking of the hull. I used the laser etched marking on the gun sport strips to line up the 1st plank. The first two planks were fitted without any shaping or tapering.

 

After the first two planks had been fitted I decided to mark the position of the waterline, so I knew the area of the 2nd planking that would remain visible, and the area which would require copper plating. I then added some tape after the waterline had been drawn.

Before starting with fitting the next plank I took some measurements (I used the gun ports as the reference points plus a one near the stern and one near bow). The measurements indicated that twenty planks would be required at the widest point (80mm) with a taper width a 2mm at both the stern and bow. I used a old piece of planking material to make a test plank and then edged bended both ends. On reflection the stern end of the plank did not really require an edge bend. I was very happy with how the test plank fitted after it had been bended.

 

[Glenn-UK]

I have made a good start to the 2nd planking of the hull this afternoon. I have never used edge bending before but I'm finding it very easy and not that time consuming.

 

I am also extremely pleased with the results.

 

I am tapering the planks to 2mm width at the bow end.  I did taper a couple of the stern planks (also to 2mm) but the last two planks did not require any tapering where they terminate on the edge of the lower stern panel.

 

I have been using a medium ca glue and I tend to give each plank a quick sand with a fine grit sanding stick after installation to allow the sawdust to fill any gaps.

 

Plank Bending Station

Edited February 29, 2020 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

Latest Build Update.

I have now completed the 2nd planking and it didn't take as long as I was expecting. I used Chucks' edge bending for all the planks above the waterline. For some of the planking below the water line I used some of the plank off-cut, thus saving a few planks (which could be used elsewhere if necessary or can be added to my general stock of materials).

 

I used a medium ca glue for this task, gluing each plank a bit at a time. It seemed to work really well and I didn't end up with too much ca glue on my fingers!!!!

 

Once the planking was complete I then applied a wash of water mixed with neutral (Ronseal) wood filler. This serves 3 main purposes for my build;

a) The mix of water and filler easily fills any gaps between the planks.

b) As the wash dries it helps to highlight any uneven surfaces (below the water line) which may need further attention during the sanding process.

c) Provides an additional level of adhesion between the planks.

 

Once the wood filler wash has had time to dry I will sand the hull. The pictures below show the completed hull with the wood filler wash applied prior to the sanding.

 

[glbarlow]

Well that’s interesting. I’ll look forward to seeing how it turns out after final sanding. 

[DelF]

Impressively neat second planking. I'm also keen to see how that filler looks after sanding. You're faster than me!

 

Derek

[Glenn-UK]

Hello DelF

I have attached a picture after 5 minutes of gentle sanding. You can clearly see the imperfections where the filler has not been removed. I'm not that concerned for the areas under the wales and beneath the waterline. I know the visible planking will look good once the sanding task has been completed.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Today I removed the excess bulkhead tabs from the inner bulwark's. This turned out to be a very easy task, the tabs came away without too much effort and the deck required very little sanding to get the surface smooth.

I then went ahead and painted the inner stern and inner prow area's red. I can see from this photo beneath that the top edge of the stern panel requires a little bit more attention which is strange as it actually looked OK to the naked eye.

After the laser cut main deck has been fitted the inner bulwark's can be planked. I have estimated that each side will require approx. 4 planking strips. I have therefore painted 8 strips, using the red paint in preparation for this task.

[Glenn-UK]

I had a bit more free time so I went ahead and fitted the laser cut deck. It was a very good fit  and all the cuts outs lined up perfectly. There were no problems  with the installation.

 

I used my super phatic glue for this task which is a nice mix between wood glue and ca. The deck edges gripped very quickly with this glue and there was no need to use any pins or weights to keep the deck in place.

 

Tomorrow I hope to start the planking of the inner bulwarks. In the manual Chris used 1 strip which he is cut in to 2 planks for each row. I have noted the laser cut deck plank lengths are 3.5 inches (89mm). I am tempted to use the same length for each inner bulwark plank. Thoughts anyone?

[DelF]

You're cooking on gas now, as they say! Looking good - well done. On your question about the inner bulwark planks, it certainly makes sense to do each strip in shorter lengths, but I'm not sure the actual length matters too much. With all the gunports and other holes in the bulwarks I don't think your eye will notice the joins so long as they are staggered.

 

I'm still in two minds about using the laser etched deck or using it as a template for my own planks. I'll be interested to see what yours looks like when you've applied a finish. 

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Derek

[glbarlow]

Up to you but those joints may stand out more than you want. The gun ports break it up already. It’s easier in my opinion to open a port with a #11 blade with a full strip across it than to line up edges. 
 

I’m planning to use the laser cut deck at the moment. 

Edited March 4, 2020 by glbarlow

[Glenn-UK]

I've been away for a few days but I've now returned so I can continue on with my build. I am currently planking the inner bulwarks.

 

I completed the starboard side before I went away, but require a little bit of tinkering around the gun port and oar port openings, sorry about the quality of the photo's.

I then moved on to complete the port side bulwark planking. I used my super phatic glue and clamped each plank and allowed the glue to cure for at least 30 mins before moving on to the next plank. As seen in the pictures below I have completed the planking and I'm just waiting for the final plank's glue to cure before removing the clamps. I decided to clamp around the gun port and oar port openings to ensure a good bond. I have found this made the removal of the excess wood a bit easier. For the oar port openings I found it easier to use a small drill to make a series of holes which I then joined up with my craft knife to clear the opening. The ports were then tidied up using  my needle files.

Edited March 9, 2020 by glennard2523

[Bobbuild]

Great Job  Looking forward to starting mine

[glbarlow]

I’ve found it easier to open up the gun ports, hatches, and rowing ports after each plank, never letting it get completely closed. 
 

I like the look of the lasered deck. I’m trying out your phatic blue for some parts, thanks for the lead. 
 

Good job on the bulwarks. 

Edited March 10, 2020 by glbarlow

[Glenn-UK]

I did the same with the gun port openings, i.e. clearing the opening after each plank was added. The oar port openings were quite small and I did find it easier to clear the opening in one go.

[DelF]

As Glen says, good job on the bulwarks.

 

Are you guys running short on 2nd planking strips? I ask because I've had to use off-cuts from the hull planking to complete the inner bulwarks. Not a problem as I was able to use the short off-cuts to fill the gaps between ports, but the build definitely requires more than the 60 strips of 2nd planking timber supplied. Or am I missing something?

 

Derek

Edited March 10, 2020 by DelF

[Glenn-UK]

I have plenty of 2nd planking strips left. I have been using off cuts to fill in between the gun port gaps when appropriate to do so. I have  now completed all the 2nd planking except for the port side final stage.

[Glenn-UK]

After completing planking the inner bulwarks, I used the laser marked points on the gun port strips and drilled through using a 0.8mm drill. It is a great innovation for this design to provide the guide points for these holes.

I then moved on to the outstanding 2nd planking which did not take me too much time to complete and I do have a few planking strips left over.

 

I have given the new planks a preliminary sanding. The entire hull will require one a final sanding before moving on to the next phase of the build which is adding the wales, stern post and keel items.

 

I have not checked the build instructions but I am thinking about adding some linings to the gun port openings later on.

[DelF]

More good progress. 

 

I notice earlier in your log you used pieces of cut-off planking below the waterline to save material - that might explain why you've got some strips left over. 

 

Like you, I've wondered about lining the ports. I can't find anything about that in the build instructions, but I think I'll line mine for a neater effect.

 

Derek

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Derek

I only used a couple of filler pieces below the water line, where I had cocked up the shaping of the plank to be fitted.

 

I have done a bit of testing and 3mm strips will be good for the lining of the gun ports. I will probably do that much later down the line.

 

 

[dzerbato]

Chris Watton had mentioned something previously in one of these logs about the gun port lining. There was a reason it wasn't included, but I can't remember why. The width of the material may have been a problem.

[Glenn-UK]

37 minutes ago, dzerbato said:

Chris Watton had mentioned something previously in one of these logs about the gun port lining. There was a reason it wasn't included, but I can't remember why. The width of the material may have been a problem.

I have had a scan through Chris's Speedy build notes. The only reference I can find relates to the design of the gun port strips. I think it would be ok with thin 3mm strips.

[DelF]

Is this what you remembered? This is a different issue - I think Chris is referring to the method he has used on other models whereby the gun port openings are pre-formed by frames within the bulwarks. This would not be practical for Speedy as the bulwarks are too thin. 
 

Our issue is about lining the inside of the gun ports to neaten the cut surfaces. 
 

Derek

[glbarlow]

59 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

think it would be ok with thin 3mm strips.

One possible problem to check is that extra height doesn't prohibit the cannons from going through the port, I'd rig one up and poke it through one with a dry-fitted piece on the sill.  I know I started to do that on my little Nelson project and determined the cannons weren't high enough to allow it. Painting them red (or whatever color) helps conceal the different layers of wood.