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Phoenix by Moreplovac - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 - Russian Brigantine


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  • 2 weeks later...

Working on blocks, different sizes, for different yards... a bit of serial production.
 

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I used a bit of CA glue to freeze the block and now rope is slightly stiff; need to massage it so it will fit around the yard..
 

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A foot rope is also installed; slightly different approach this time. First i made an eye...
 

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Cut it with extra length...
 
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then drag the main rope line thru with a help from this fancy tool...

 

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The the lines were tight to the yard in appropriate length..
 

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I will adjust foot rope to look a bit more realistic...

Happy modelling...

 

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Marking the position of reef lines...
 

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Production line, knot making process...
 

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Freezing the top of a line with a drop of CA glue...
 

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After making holes in the sail, the reef lines are pushed thru...
 

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50/50 diluted white glue assist keeping the knot positioned...
 

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The ship cradle, once turned up side down, serves as a good, small table for tasks that require precision and patience.. this is part of making a knot on the other side of the line..
 

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After reef lines haircut is done... few lines still need a bit of adjustment...
 

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Next sail, S1..
 
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and completed...
 

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Happy modelling..

 

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Making few 0.3mm ropes, using crochet lines and Golden oak stain. I usually cut the lines in 1mm length, deep one line at a time in the stain and pull it out, at the time i drop the whole line in the stain. This prevents a line to stay in the stain for too long. This allows me to somehow control the beige colour shade of the lines.. then let it dry for a day...
 

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It is time to bring the model back on the table...
 

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... and to replace the plan
 

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All sails appears to be done..
 

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Work will start on a jib by making a holes for rings.. and making 7 rings in 3mm diameter. The rings are blackened and polished before mounted on the sail..
 

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Then the sail is attached ...
 

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Then a tack cringle is attached to the parrel using a simple square knot. Next, the halyard is attached to the head of the sail..
 

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... and it will be tight to the cleat using a 3.5 mm block with an iron hook..
 

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Happy modelling...

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The pedants are attached to the sail with special knot, and the rope length has to be adjusted; with installed sail, the pedants length will be different ..
 

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Staysail downhaul is also installed...
 

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Happy modelling..

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Lets do some work on main yard... this is a fancy knot for a main yard..
 

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On the way up...
 

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... and up...
 

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One of two blocks that will need rigging...
 

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Little helper to keep all in one place..
 

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Happy modelling..

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Continue with rigging...
 

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A little helper to assist with keeping the same distance for both blocks..
 

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and the other side...
 

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Some random shots of blocks and rigging details.. if someone is interested in following one rigging line specifically, let me know and i will provide few pictures...

 

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From sailor' perspective...
 

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From bird' perspective... hopefully bird is not fully fed.
 

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While i was rigging this block, i rigged the wrong block, the one further on the left. All line was completed, ended in the third pin but had to do one more time, again. Practice makes it perfect..
 

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Happy modelling..

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Getting rigging ready for a main-topgallant sail..
 

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During process of attaching the sail, the block rigging just snapped, so needed to make another one... to bad the line was already on the sail..
 

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Making parral..
 

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Happy modelling..

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During the work, one line was damaged and needed replacement..
 

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It was replaced and all is good again...

I also removed the ship boat as i will be adding few more details to it...
 

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Which in turn, leaves a bit more space for work..
 

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Another parral to build...
 

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And continue with the sail... keeping it up with a small cloth pin...
 

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Then i had to rearrange and reposition some ropes correctly.. a bit of diluted white glue to keep the ends straight and some weight till glue dries...
 

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Happy modelling..

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Making few blocks with a hook... first, wrapped a wire around the block, added a rope on the opposite end off the hook, twist the wire and make a hook. Then, siezing the rope and freeze it with a glue. The whole block was dropped in blackening solution. With seizing the rope and freeze it first, the blackening solution will no "blackened" the rope, because the glue will prevent solution going into the rope. It is not a bid deal if seizing is done after blackening, just rope has to be pulled a bit more so the blackened rope is removed...
 

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Rigging the sprit-sail yard is next. First, the block was rigged and attached to the yard..
 

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... the rope was pulled thru...
 

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Few more other ropes were attached...
 

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Getting crowded up here...
 

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... and ended up on pin. I put a small amount of white glue to freeze the knot... when is dry, less visible than CA glue.
 

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Extra cord length will be cut off later..

Happy modelling...

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Did not quite like the way how all rope tail end ended up around belaying pins.. It is working just fine but the end results were not quite there so i decided to add a line coils... A bit of a different approach was also involved since i already cut all ropes to a length, so for me to lay the tail ends as they supposed to be, properly, coiled around the pins, was out of the question...
 

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First i a line coils factory... the flora craft foam was used as a foundation because of its sharp edges, and well, spongy structure, not hard to push all those small pins... The baking paper was used to prevent glue from sticking on the foam. To create a line coil diameter as close to the original pins diameter, i cut a 2mm wire into 1cm long "pins" and push into the foam.. The distance from the edge was measured from the pin location on the ship and hanging part was also measured to provide a nice look at the end...
 

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And started to run lines around it...
 

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A drop of white glue was put in each line coil to keep the shape and they were left to dry overnight..
 

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End the results were OK..
 

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A drop of diluted white glue was also applied on the final product..
 

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There are definitely other ways of doing this exercise and the best way will be to do the line coils on the ship directly, but this scale is fairly small for my fingers... Maybe next time..

Happy modelling..

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I have tried a slightly different approach now... wanted to try starting the work from the pin, first tightening the rope around the pin and work towards the yards.. this will give me a bit more workspace and it might ended up better and more realistic.. So lets see...

The rope was ran thru...
 

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.. the knot was tight around the pin...
 

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.. a bit of a CA was dropped to make sure the knot will stay in place.. Then the coil was attached, again with a help of a CA...
 
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The rope looks a bit fuzzy on zoomed picture but it was dragged thru a beeswax and from the naked eye it does look OK.

So far it does look more realistic this way.. and easier to install... Then, the rope was running thru a block and attached to the sprit-sail yard..
 

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Hmm, it does not look that bad after all... Will try few more times..

Happy modelling..
Edited by moreplovac
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Continue with different bowlines rigging... if there is an interest in how a specific rigging line is running, i can snap more detailed pictures...

For rigging line colour and size i was following the kit plan.... all lines are dragged thru a beeswax to lower the fuzziness on them but zoomed pictures are as bad as they are good...

 

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From sailor's perspective..
 

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Happy modelling...

Edited by moreplovac
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  • 2 weeks later...

Continue work on parrel trucks for sail boom and gaff. Trucks are shipped coloured in red so i painted them in matt black and attached.
 

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I decided to attach spanker with a spiral lacing explained in Lennarth Petersson's "Rigging period ship models". Not quite sure if it is completely historically accurate but it appears to me as very interesting way.. So, it is..

First i made few hoops..
 

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Blackened...
 

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Then the hole locations are marked on the spanker..
 

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And hooks inserted..
 

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First, the spanker was mounted..
 

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Few blocks...
 

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Then the lacing after spanker is mounted..
 

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And completed...
 

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Happy modelling..

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Deck coil time.... With a help of small jig, it is working like a charm...
 

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And installed on the ship..
 

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I also added two cleats.... from aluminium, cleaned, drilled a hole for a wire and mounted on the ship...
 

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Will finish them later...

Continue with blocks and rigging...
 

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Happy modelling...

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Continue with rope coils installation; mental note for a future builds: do this task when deck is free of other items....

The coil is fixed on the deck with a touch of white glue, non diluted.
 

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After drying, the excess rope is cut...
 

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Few more installed...
 

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Next one was particularly challenging because of its location...
 

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The reason more to do these ahead of time is no need to use CA glue which is discolouring the rope. Tried with PVA but was just not holding the place..

Then was working on guy rope...
 

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During my build process, i lost several blocks. Very likely i will be able to find them walking barefooted but i decided to order few sets online... and here they are, brand new, with attached hooks...
 

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And mounted, temporary...
 

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Happy modelling...

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  • 2 weeks later...

The anchors' buoys are next.

First started with carving them... Last time in my Sultana build, i used sculpey to make buoys, this time tried a different approach.
 

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In below picture are two buoy prototypes, i carved without a lathe..
 

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Then pilot holes are drilled and two hooks per buoy are made and inserted, not all the way thru to leave a bit room for seizing.. The buoys were painted in white.
 

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Then harness for each buoy are made, two per buoy. Three lines were knotted along another rigging line. Spacing between the lines was appr 6mm.
 

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Then the harness were wrapped around the rod, knotted and glued.
 

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The harness was wrapped around the buoy and glued with super glue.
 

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The second harness was attached as well. This part was a a bit tricky, since three lines of the second harness have to be run under the existing harness before being seized but with little help this was done OK.
 

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The seizing was done around the hook, on both ends of buoy.

 

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And completed. With this all work, the buoys were weathered a bit which ended up to be a nice detail..
 

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Ready for anchors..
 

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Happy modelling..

 

Edited by moreplovac
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Worked on a stern flagpole; here is completed pole:
 

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And the process of sanding and shaping...
 

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Cut in half...
 

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Adding pins for details..
 

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Now i am working on flags; even dough the kit provided flags are decent, i will try to make my own, just to test the process and will decide which set to use.

Happy modelling..

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Ship flags are next. I decided to make my own flags even dough kit provided flags are good. This was just a test for making technology... I used software to make the flag, printed on the transfer paper and used iron to transfer picture to the material. It took me few attempts to find out correct material, correct layout and temperature as well as the way to line up both ends of the flag. For this task, i actually sandwich the material between two printouts, and with just one iron pass the pictures will transfer on both sides of the material.

I have tried several different material thickness as well as a paper and ended up with white shirt cotton.

After all flags are made, i started mounting them..

The flag is glued to the line...
 

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The line is positioned on flag poll...
 

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And the rope was tighten to the poll as well...
 

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The whole assembly was glued to the ship..
 

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Second flag is proudly up...
 

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This one was slightly twisted around small brush...
 

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Here is comparison between kit provided and home-made...
 

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The flag was also glued to the line and mounted on the ship...On the way up..
 

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And the last one, same process, this time without the line..
 

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As always, the mighty greek warrior arrived to check the progress. He usually comes at the end of the work, waiting to take control of the ship, suggesting that THAT IT IS... I can call it a finished project.
 

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The next i will work on pedestal, acrylic cover and some final pictures...

Happy modelling..

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