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This is a personal thing but I avoid CA.  I would add epoxy for metal to wood gluing if it comes into play on your model.

Allan

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For wood to wood I use Titebond, if it is impossible to clamp I sometimes use CA or a combination of CA to spot glue along with Titebond. For metal to wood or metal to metal I will use 5 minute epoxy or solder if practical. I have never have used contact cement in models and would be very leery of it's longevity.

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I use Luthiers Mercantile Yellow (musical) Instrument glue.  Same as Titebond, but it has a dye that shows up under black light.  Easy to see where you have to wash off excess, spills, etc.  Same price as Titebond.

Maury

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13 hours ago, Maury S said:

I use Luthiers Mercantile Yellow (musical) Instrument glue.  Same as Titebond, but it has a dye that shows up under black light.  Easy to see where you have to wash off excess, spills, etc.  Same price as Titebond.

I've never heard of the stuff. What a great idea! Can you please provide information on where to buy it?

 

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19 hours ago, Maury S said:

I use Luthiers Mercantile Yellow (musical) Instrument glue. 

It is interesting to see what these guys...

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/confused-about-glue.1329881/

... have to say. The Luthiers Mercantile Yellow product first appears in post#9.  I found their observations about the differences in sanding LMY and Titebond a real eye-opener. Also, I was unaware of just how much difference there is between Titebond products until reading this.

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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Bob, I bought it direct.  https://www.lmii.com/glue/2957-lmi-yellow-instrument-glue-8-oz.html

There may be a shelf life, but the 8 oz. bottle I bought a year ago still has 6 oz. left.

Maury

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