Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[stuglo]

Bowsprit and Foremast Partners.

Planks, 1.06mm thick, sit flush on rabbets of respective Beams.(these rabbets would have been made on the mill before fixing the beams, but to unglue everything was a bit too much)

Holes for mast, both less than the 9.4mm suggested- final sizing and position I think better left until after planking.

The Bowsprit hole, angled   according to plan.

 

Half Hook

Basis for planking and waterways, between the Bowsprit Partner and 1st Beam.

2.12mm thick and rabbeted on adjoining structures.

 

[stuglo]

The Cathead.

This requires cutting through the hull-I hate “destroying” what I’ve built. Mistakes not always amenable to invisible repair and I haven’t found a way to turn the clock back.

The inboard section is angled upwards and curves outwards relative to the straight outboard section. This ”Tail” section is slightly tapered.

It passes beneath the 2# Beam and 3# Beam,where it rests against the Foretopsail Bitt Pin.

Where it passes beneath the beams, the beam and cathead are notched.

( something else I forgot to prepare before fixing the beams. This was remedied but again, better to do “off” model.)

The outboard part seems rectangular rather than square in section according to the pattern given in TFFM, but the decorative cap is square.

When fitted, the upper surface of the sub-deck section should be horizontal, which gives the angle of the outer section - this appears about 15 deg.

I took a blank of 95x15x10 mm, stuck the cutout patterns, and shaped the piece.

The notching or scoring of the Cathead and beams marked by laying the former on top of the beams. The direction of cut for a window through the hull can be made and the lower level and adjoining Lodging Knee, filed down to allow for the angle of the Cathead at this point. 

Having milled the scoring in the Cathead, and underscored the beams with chisel and a thin sandpaper strip, I tried to insert the cathead through the hole in the hull. 

This was impossible.

***As my wife was in another room, I had no one to blame but myself***

The simplest solution seemed to remove the small section above the opening .

I later checked out Dan Vardas blog/ He had the same problem. His solution was to remove and remake #2 beam. (I don’t check out this blog every time because the quality of the work and ingenuity of his solutions, make me feel most inadequate)

Also I wonder if there should not be a space above the Cathead, to allow for its various ropes.

The pair of Sheave holes toward the outer end of the Cathead.

The Sheave diameter is 4.77mm, 0.73 wide (My holes became oversize during finishing)

The end of the Catshead is finished with a decorative cap- mine didn’t work out as planned. More of that next time 

 

[stuglo]

Coamings to the Steam Gratings

TFFM refers to how previously made, which like the idiot I am, used the same size strips. 

These however are only about ⅔ as wide. This became obvious after seeing again the small size of the gratings. 

I used a similar depth however, to allow for the pronounced roundup of the Head Lodges.

The Gratings themselves are also much narrower- too narrow for my thinnest table saw blade.

I used some precut gratings from an old kit that are more to scale.

The overall size and positioning seem to vary amongst patterns, plans and other builds I have seen.

The middle coaming is for the Cowl base. It was a metal plate, but both 3D rendering and D. Vardas show it rounded up similarly to the Gratinga. Therefore, the solid block I used.

This Coaming is shown aligned with those fore and aft, but the diameter of my Cowl, necessitates this to be wider

[stuglo]

Forecastle Waterway

Size - max thickness 2.12 with the”:flattened “ section 1.33mm to be flush with the planks.

I tried a different method for shaping- scalpels and the Proxxon sanding wand.

This seemed more efficient in time and result.

(not obvious yet, but a contrasting wood used- walnut I think, because it gives me the sneezes!!)

[stuglo]

Return to the Bowsprit Step:

I decided to make the uprights separately- the lower part already made and fixed before the upper deck.

These Uprights,are 4.24mm square and height 22mm above the Beam (plans)

They are scored onto the beam so to sit on the top of the Step frame.

The top of the Pins are shaped using a rounded milling piece to form a slight concavity, and the top corners are chamfered.

These uprights are also scored to  depth 0.66m  to accept a crosspiece-at 13mm above the deck

 

The Crosspiece

3.45x2.39mm with length 37mm. Chamfered at the edges and slightly scalloped near the ends.

 

Slits for the Sheaves

Below the crosspiece, a slit is made for a 3.7x1mm sheave 

This will be the same be at the level of a sheave 3.71x0.53mm, within a Cheek attached to the side of the Upright.

 

The Cheek sits on the deck planks, is 1.6mm wide and 8mm high. Rather than make these separately I decided to take a strip, form the pattern along its length, and then cut to the required width (slightly narrower than the uprights).

It is mortised to a depth of  0.6 mm x 4.2mm to take the sheave.(milled)

The top forms a molding (I made with a 1mm milling bit “stepped” across and down.

 

BRILLIANT  !!!  except that I made the mortise on the wrong side. The molding should slope outwards !!! Start again.(But the method was good).

 

I made the sheaves from wood and temporarily  glued the assembly in place, I must learn to cut slices from copper rods I recently bought.

[stuglo]

The Cowel

Sits on the upper chimney of the Stove, and passes through the foredeck via a hole in a metal plate. The Cowel Base.

I used a wooden dowel, cut at an angle slightly more than 45deg, instead of fabricating from metal. 

The opening faces forward, but the air intake is regulated by a Baffle. This is a thin disk, slightly larger than the aperture, which can be moved fore/aft. I made this also from a thin slice of dowel. The slides are made from cutdown dressmaker’s pins, the tube from insulation for thin electric wire, and the handle from copper wire. The ensemble painted black

[Dave_E]

NICE! You keep this up and scratch building is going to have a new meaning. 👍😀

[stuglo]

Planking the Forecastle.

The planks are 1.33mm thick.

The Centreplank is of similar thickness, but a bit wider.

As all the planks are less than 22ft no butt joints are necessary.

The planks taper, approx 4mm foreward, to 4.77mm aft. This gives a curved effect. 

The 7th plank passes over the Cathead, whose upper surface is notched to allow this plank to lie flush with its neighbours.

The tips of the next 3 planks are “barbed” otherwise the end width would be too narrow. 

I’ve penciled the edges and left gaps between the planks to represent caulking,but I do not plan to nail as the effect, to me at least, often seems exaggerated. ( I understand that they probably couldn’t be seen-hypocrite that I am, I like them on the hull and elsewhere,as decorative features.) 

[stuglo]

Sheaves and Brass

The wooden sheaves look terrible.

I ordered some brass rods recently but have only a simple lathe (built from 6in1 classic Unimat)

No suitable cutting tools, although I adapted some small screwdrivers for woodwork. 

I have an old mitre cutoff saw. As scratch building doesn’t lend itself to mass reproduction, I’vr not used it for a couple of years. 

No special blade, I can cut through the brass. 

The brass gets pretty hot and sometimes the saw sticks.

I decided to slow it down and connected a light “dimmer” switch. It is much improve and gives me down to 0.5 mm slices

(The central holding screw is rusted in -WD40 doesn't work. Please advise as I would like to change the blade to carbide-tipped or a cutting disk)

Also, not able to make the required grooves.

I welcome suggestions to adapt by toy lathe and the tools I will need to slice groove shape etc

[stuglo]

Fore Jeer Bitt Pins and Standard.

Unlike others, these are bolted down over the deck planking.

In form, similar to Fore Topsail Bitt.

The Pins are 3.71mm sq. and the standards , if I understand TFFM correctly, are made of one piece with them.

I anticipated difficulties in making the various moticses, sheave slits shaped tops etc, so I made them separately, did the necessary milling and drilling, then stuck them together.

The crosspiece is again 3.45x2.39x36mm, the lower surface 9mm above the planking.

The sleave slit extends through the Standard, but this can now be made in the drill bench press.

A set of brass disks are fitted as sheaves.

The Pins sit on beam#4 and extend aft so the Standard near the Cowl Coaming

[stuglo]

Forecastle Bulwark Planking

Referring back to ch.4 - the inner planking expansion.(planks 26,27,28)

#26, short plank aft of Breast Beam

#27, the lower strake interrupted by the Catshead, continues to Bowsprit 

#28, the upper strake widens over the Catshead, and encloses the upper part of the Bowsprit.

I had difficulty making this in one piece. Cutting to size and accurately placing the expansion over the Catshead didn’t seem to work even with the plank heated to take the bend.

After 4 or 5 attempts, I took the cowards way out, and divided the plank above the Catshead.

 

A series of 4 eye bolts are countersunk on the #27. These are referred to as the Ironwork.

Countersinking, as suggested by TFFM, using a narrow flat screwdriver. The (shortened) eyebolt is fitted after drilling the usual hole in the center of the depression

 

[stuglo]

The Forecastle Breastwork.

This is the Railing at the aft end of the Forecastle, either side of a central Belfry. 

Stanchions:

A pair either side, with sheaves.

2.25mm sq., 12.75mm tall. Shaped similarly to the tops of the Bitt Pins

The sheave, 0.46x2.12mm in a slit beneath the Rail.

Pegged (part brass pin) onto the Breast Beam, ensuring they are vertical.

Rails:

4.24X1.33mm enclosing the Stanchions. Again, as suggested by TFFM, made with notches and a finishing strip.An accurate square “hole” is difficult.

Cutting this notch with a knife,chisel or saw, caused breakages to the thin blank. The milling bit did a better job

The practicum calls for creating a molding around the edges. I found this impossible. Rather I chamfered these edges.

The Rails are fixed parallel to the deck.

 

The Belfry .

Consist of 2 Stanchions, a Canopy (roof) and Headstock,from which suspends a bell.

The Stanchions 4.77x2.25x16mm. With thickening at top and base.

The Canopy. I decided to make this as a shaped single piece, rather than 3 pieces.

Omega shaped, also edged with a stepped molding, which I again failed to create and so chamfered.

Headstock. 1.6mm wide, yoke shaped. Placed halfway up the Stanchions.

The “V”metal straps, using thick black paper. At its base is the brass Bell.

Max width and height about 4.5mm and bell-shaped.

My efforts at brass turning are so far pathetic. Looking for something to adapt, I saw the end of a cannon left over from a kit. Cutting this and shaping with a sanding wand, seems ok.

Above the Headstock is a bell crank - a ready made eyebolt bent to shape.

The above was assembled and fitted, and only now I made the Spar Rack.

I think this was easier, rather than before the Belfry.

Spar Rack. Filling the gap between the inner Stanchions and the Belfry.

Width again 4.24mm, “U” shaped, the outer limb fits under the Rail, the other is this height + 1.33mm (thickness of the Rail). The outermost edge shaped to fit  the neighbouring edge of  Belfry Upright.

Again shaped by my Proxxon mill - a really useful machine. 

[stuglo]

HELP WANTED !!

Thickness of Beams and Lodging Knees.

Both these sit on the deck clamps. How can they sit flush if they are different thicknesses. Lower and possibly upper deck beams are let down. I cheated with the forecastle and made thicker knees. 

I can't see a different solution for the quarter deck, where the beam is 5.5 in and the knee only 4.5 in.

What am I missing?

[Kevin Kenny]

I think you are correct. The knee is level with the top side of the beam. I do not think there is anything wrong with this

[Kevin Kenny]

Here are the 3d drawings which shows them equal.

[stuglo]

I have these 3D's. They seem to prove my point, they are the same thickness. So the Lodging Knees need thickening to much? TFFM authors and others, please advise. (I'm losing sleep)

[dvm27]

It's been decades since I built my fully framed Swan class model. But I recall the deck beams being let into the clamps by 1". At any rate it's only important for the top of the knee to be flush with the top of the beam so the decking will be supported. Usually the underside of the lodging knee was an inch shy of the bottom of the beam.

[stuglo]

Thanks

[stuglo]

Quarter Deck Beams.

These have already been made so as to enable fitting of upper deck bulkheads.

The Beams are 2.9mm deep.

I posted a question on how to reconcile this depth, without Letting Down if the Lodging knees are only 2.39mm, as these usually sit on the deck clamp. In order that the upper surface is flush with the Beam, this must mean that either the Beam is let down by 0.51mm, the Knee is thickened to match the beam,2.9mm or the knee doesn’t sit on the clamp.

I went with the thickened Lodging Knee.

The “arms” of the L.K. are 19.1m

The Hanging Knee is 2.65mm thick, arm 17.49mm and leg over the spirketting.

I REMEMBERED to mill mortises for Carlings before fitting Beams. 

The Carlings are all 2.65mm deep but varying widths.

For the: Scuttle, 2.39mm width

             Ladder Way 4.5 mm

Between Beams #5 to #9 the Carlings are 4.1mm wide. The form a line which tapers, so that the distance between the carlings at Beam #5, are 24.5mm and at #9 =22.5mm.

I had some difficulty fitting the Lodging Knees after the Hanging Knee and its aft partner were fitted, because the “tongue” of the L.K. would break off if fitted to closely into the notch of the H.K.

In the end, dry fitting the assembly and then gluing the knees before finally fixing the Beam.  

The fore/aft bulkhead can be fitted after #8 Beam in place.

The Mizzen mast partner is fitted between #9and#10, and the beams are scored to 0.53mm for the mortise.

Beam #15 scored  for the Rudderhead framing mortise and fitting to the angle of the Rudderhead itself.

Only when the Beams and Knees were already fixed in place, I noticed that aft of Beam #10, the Beams were not aligned with the Transom on the Port side, the deck didn’t angle upwards sufficiently.

Ungluing everything, I saw the cause was the height of the upper port framing and the neighbouring spirketting.

To correct this, I added a long wedge of inner planking, from 0 to 2mm at the Transom.

The Beams and Knees refixed (some being remade) and this problem solved

There is no room for a Hanging Knee at #14 Beam, so it was omitted. 

[stuglo]

Rudderhead Framing.

Three pieces of 2.65mm, 2 sides and 1 joining piece aft of the Rudder.

Rabbeted joints, they sit flush with beam#15 and the Transom, aft. This latter also needs scoring.

The opening is fan-shaped to allow rotation of the Rudder.

The height of the Rudderhead Trunk needs adjusting to allow the frame to sit on it.

TFFM suggests an half-beam from either side of the frame to the deck clamp. This requires scoring the Frame.

An Iron Knee is fixed between the Transom and inner hull planking.

I made this with thick, black card.

[Kevin Kenny]

I am soon to start my rudder. Anything i need to be aware of?

[stuglo]

Its fun to make. I used the mill and sanding boards. Aligning the cut-outs for the pintles and those already made on the sternpost was fiddly. I had to enlarge the helm port to allow the correct angle and gap between rudder and sternpost. Mine probably should have bin slightly wider.

I'm still dissatisfied by the straps. Will rethink near end of build. 

(ps seriously, the next time I build a Swan, it will be planked and rigged, leaving-out the "innards")

[stuglo]

The Quarter Deck Carlings.

These are 2.65mm deep and varying widths. As before, mortised onto the Beams.

Foreward, they form the base for a pair of scuttles. They are 2.6mm wide.

The Ladderway carlings are 4.5mm wide

The carlings for the Capstan Partner are 4mm wide.They are parallel.

Between Beams #5 and #8. The carlings are also 4mm , but the gap narrows from 24.5 to 22.5mm.

 

[stuglo]

Mizzen Mast Partner

Only 1.06mm thick, can be made in 1 piece (see 3D rendition)

The hole for the mast is 6.89mm, and towards aft end of the piece.

The fore and aft sides are scored down so they sit flush with the Beams.

The 1st piece broke, so on second attempt, made smaller hole, glued piece in place, and after planking, the piece being reinforced, will enlarge the hole

 

The Quarter Deck Capstan Partner. 

Similar construction to the upper deck CP-3 pieces (2.65mm thick) rabbeted together.

They don’t sit directly on the beams, but  onto Bearer pieces. I made these 2mm, but shaped to fit the curve of the beam,so the bottom edge of the CP sits at deck level. Thus their upper surface is horizontal, onto which the CP sits.( I also put them on the carlings : I didn’t really understand the adapted Carling instruction until after I finished-it comes to the same anyway)

The aft bearer is the width of the beam (4.24mm) but the fore bearer (on beam #4) is only 1.59mm wide.

The hole is centered above the Capstan Barrel previously fitted. It is lined by an iron hoop, 0.4mm (thickness of my black paper), thus I made the hole 9mm diam.

The Partner must sit horizontal to enable the Capstan to turn on a vertical axis.

The lower surface is milled and sanded to a wedge-shape (looking from side), the aft edge reduced to about 2mm.

 

( Holes are also prepared for the ladder stanchions. Why? The ladderway coamings are similar fore and aft. Ok for fore, why not aft. Also looks funny to my eye.)

[stuglo]

Companion Top.

Some discussion in TFFM on style appropriate for type and age.

A  clerestory type is illustrated.

The coamings for the base are already in place

.Height 5.5mm including rounding up 1mm.

A veneer “sandwich” with “glass” filling was again suggested, as was used for Bulkheads.

There are small openings for the lights, which I found impossible to make without breaking the walls. I then tried using some  thin boxwood 1.10mm as a single layer - more successful.

I used the veneer for the roof as a single piece, but the grain gives the appearance of narrow planks.

When all dried, I realised I left out the “glass”.

Maybe return to put things right when I’ve more patients.

One of those (superficially) simple builds that are ultimately most frustrating.

 

[stuglo]

Quarter Deck Waterway

   6.36wide and max height 2.12.

Tried a different way. As suggested for the Breast Beam, made in 2 parts. 

The “flat” 6.36X 1.33mm (thickness of planking).

Shaped the molding with a bespoke scraper.

I did not need to anneal the blade- the disc in the mill had no trouble cutting it.

After  gluing it to the base, final shaping with another homemade scraper and a small riffler file.

[stuglo]

Quarter Deck Planking.

Thickness 1.33mm.

Tapers aftward.

Scuttles- single each side, made as before-lower of 2 layers of plank at right angles.

 

Remade the Companion Top (including plastic lights)

 

Quarter Deck Bulwark Planking.

(#27,#28) 1.66 thick.

Note- starts about 10mm aft of Breast Beam, with raise of Hull line.

 

***********************************************************************************************

Major Mistake/Problem. The hull ribs are too thick. Particular;y at the waist. Suspected and then forgot before I applied the inner and outer planking. Looking ahead to the Planksheer this became obvious. I thinned down the port side (4mm), but I don’t want to remove the planking on the starboard side. Any advice is most welcome.

***********************************************************************************************

[stuglo]

Thinning Down the Hull.

As mentioned in a previous post, this is too thick.

Not wanting to undo and redo the outer planking and structures built, settled on just removing the 2 upper inner planks, thinning the ribs as much as possible, and then replacing them. 

Because of some change in angle, these also needed to be sanded flush. By no means perfect but will later be disguised by the Gangway.

[stuglo]

Replacing inner planks - colour difference, before poly application 

[stuglo]

The Tiller.

Given choice of Tiller with or without a Steering Wheel

My Atalanta plans do not show a Wheel.

A Steering Wheel is very delicate and complicated. Even if I had the ability, I lack the patience at this stage of the build.

The aft end is a tapered square, 4.77x3.71 to fit into the mortise of the Rudder Head.

Foreward, it curves and tapers, with increasing champhing, until rounded. At the very end, it expands into a small ball.

Made from some local pear wood.

Using a blank and the patterns printed in TFFM.