HMS Bounty by LyleK1 - Artesania Latina - 1:48 scale

[LyleK1]

2 hours ago, Joe100 said:

Oh I forgot to ask, are you going to paint the figurehead green? Bligh mentions this but it’s unclear if it was this way when she left or repainted in Tahiti. 

I need to re-read about that in the Anatomy book… I thought it was mentioned as being red.

[LyleK1]

The book doesn't state any colors.

It does mention Bligh having it re-painted as you mentioned. No colors!

Not sure what I will do. Since my rendition has the breadfruit onboard, I will go with a more colorful figurehead as mentioned.

[Joe100]

It’s all a bit of a muchness in the end, since we just don’t know. I’ve had crippling indecision on many, many projects and with this being my second HMAV Bounty, she’s no exception. In the end, no matter what you choose, you have the best information available, which isn’t much, your choice is as informed as it can be. What else can we do? What is important is your cracking build is going to look awesome in the end, and I’m happy to be following along!

[LyleK1]

19 hours ago, Joe100 said:

It’s all a bit of a muchness in the end, since we just don’t know. I’ve had crippling indecision on many, many projects and with this being my second HMAV Bounty, she’s no exception. In the end, no matter what you choose, you have the best information available, which isn’t much, your choice is as informed as it can be. What else can we do? What is important is your cracking build is going to look awesome in the end, and I’m happy to be following along!

Thanks Joe!

I just spent some time looking over your website!

Very impressive work... you must have the patience of saint! 

And only a month to build! Wow!

Thanks for sharing and thanks for stopping in.

[LyleK1]

Continuing on with some work in the stern area...

I think Artesania Latina could've done better with the layout of this work and the needless cutting of planks...

 

The stern stanchions were first up. Cut to size and wrapped with an aged brass strap and aged pins. As mentioned above, I had to cut a hole in the planking to attach it to the hull. I decided to drill a hole and round of the corners of the piece and fit it to the drilled hole:

Same thing done to the port side.

The next step is to install the rudder and attach it to the stern post. Installing the rudder requires a 6mm hole to be cut from the transom through the lower deck and through a pre-made hole in the main deck.

I had some apprehension over the "hole" work! I spoke to Tim Moore (he recently completed the same model... really good!) and received some good advise. Thanks Tim!

I drilled a small hole for about where the center of the rudder post would pass through the transom and used a brass rod to check the alignment. I was off by about 5-6mm... so, leaving the brass rod (still in place) as a guide, I drilled from the top down, being vigilant about adjusting the drill to the angle of the rod to correct the hole placement. Came out almost perfect! I need to purchase a larger pin vise to increase the size of the drill bits, a little at a time. It will be here on Saturday!

The rudder post rounded and ready for installation: 

 

On to the garden windows. These pewter pieces needed some castings ground flat and then painted. I chose to use the colors from one of the pictures posted earlier in my log:

 

 

Cutting the holes in the sides, again, seemed to me that it could have been done during the planking, it was not fun cutting these holes!

 

And then installing the pieces:

I also cut the slots for rigging to pass through later in the build.

 

Hopefully, I have the rudder installed by my next update. I'm also working on some of the bow deck fixtures.

 

Edited January 14, 2022 by LyleK1

[LyleK1]

The rudder was an exercise in futility! But it's installed.

Drilling the hole to proper size was no problem, I used several drills and two different pin vises (one small and one large) to drill out the hole for the rudder head... The hard part was get the alignment right, as noted in my previous post, I used a brass rod as a guide.

The results were good but not excellent. I had to do some round file work through the main deck to get the alignment just right with no binding:

Unfortunately, I have that little chip that broke loose at some point, looks worse than it is in the picture!

Earlier in the build, I increased the stern post in width to make a better finish for the planking. This made things a bit more difficult to shape the hinge pieces. Additionally, I decided to install the pins into the rudder:

 

I am disappointed that Artesania Latina used different metals in the kit. Check out the top band (for the chain) and the hinges:

Two different metals blackened... and to add insult to injury, their included "brass" nails are, in fact, iron nails. I could not get them to blacken, at all and they are magnetic!

I tried sanding the "brass" coating and had some success. I also, began the distressing process on the rudder and stern post. Still need to add rust stains:

 

Working getting start on the bowsprit mount and deck fixtures:

 

I need to start making rope too. Lots of rope! I won't be using the thread supplied in the kit.

More coming soon!

[Dave_E]

NICE! 👍

[Joe100]

I think it looks great! All of her iron fittings were changed to bronze and what you’ve done here looks the part to me. What did you use to darken the brass?

[LyleK1]

11 hours ago, Joe100 said:

I think it looks great! All of her iron fittings were changed to bronze and what you’ve done here looks the part to me. What did you use to darken the brass?

Thanks Joe.

I used Jax Pewter Black to blacken the parts. Good stuff!

You bring up a good point... bronze corrodes differently than iron. I'll need to use a more green color than red or orange. Not sure I have the right colors but there's plenty of time to get it if I need it.

[Joe100]

Looks good to me! Yeah they stripped all of the iron off in order to avoid galvanic corrosion when they coppered the hull. Bethia had a hull coated in White Stuff, and I think they coppered directly over it. I do have a book somewhere that covers antifouling coatings going back to forever. It details the use of Black Stuff, White Stuff, and copper in a fairly easy to understand but still technical manner. I can scare up a copy of the relevant passages if you’re interested in reading more about it. If I remember correctly it goes into the paints used on steel ships, but it’s been a while since I’ve looked at it so I could be wrong. 

[LyleK1]

3 hours ago, Joe100 said:

Looks good to me! Yeah they stripped all of the iron off in order to avoid galvanic corrosion when they coppered the hull. Bethia had a hull coated in White Stuff, and I think they coppered directly over it. I do have a book somewhere that covers antifouling coatings going back to forever. It details the use of Black Stuff, White Stuff, and copper in a fairly easy to understand but still technical manner. I can scare up a copy of the relevant passages if you’re interested in reading more about it. If I remember correctly it goes into the paints used on steel ships, but it’s been a while since I’ve looked at it so I could be wrong. 

Yeah, I was torn over how to show the hull. Since it is walnut and a TON of work, I chose to leave it… no anti fouling paint or copper.

I am pretty familiar with other coatings too.

Comes with owning a boat!

BTW, the book you recommended is due to arrive today!

[Joe100]

Oh good, I hope you like it!

 

Yeah, I completely forgot you weren’t coppering the hull, that’s in me. Well, on your next build if you decide you need any info on antifouling, you know who to call! Ha!

[LyleK1]

Bowsprit mount is in place:

 

Still need to do some weathering and aging on several pieces but am waiting to get a few more things mounted in place.

Some of the gratings are on the agenda but the stuff in the kit sucks!

This is terrible:

 

So, I ordered some replacement pieces from Syren Model Ship Company.

There’s plenty of other things to work on while I wait! Ropes to be made and tenders to be assembled!

For now, I’m off on the big boat for a couple days!

[LyleK1]

The grating kits from Syren Model Ship Company are simply the best! And quick to be delivered too.

I purchased the jig sometime back but rarely used it because the gratings in a lot of kits are okay with a little work. A.L.'s pieces are bad and so is the capstan piece... more on that in a bit.

Here is the grating being assembled:

Once all the pieces are in place I brushed some diluted wood glue over it and waited for it to dry before prying it out of the jig.

Assembly of the edge pieces was simple enough and with some light sanding to be done before placement, here is the result:

 

The capstan in the above picture is a prefabbed piece that came with the kit and is NOTHING like the capstan in the "Anatomy" book.

So, in the interest of accuracy, I am changing it to closely resemble the one in the book.

It had no holes for the bars and it had a domed top. The top is nearly flat in the book.

I used my mini mill to do the holes and am happy with the results:

 

The top will have the bolt pattern added and what appears to be a center rod cap. Additionally, the pieces that run vertically will be patterned like this:

 

Lots of work ahead!

 

[Joe100]

Excellent update!

[LyleK1]

36 minutes ago, Joe100 said:

Excellent update!

Thanks Joe.

I'm about 2/3rds of the way through the book... good read!

Adding to the info on the Bounty's history.

Thanks for the good suggestion.

[LyleK1]

Capstan work!

First few vertical pieces are rough cut and ready for sanding.

I can sure see why model ship builders like Boxwood over any other... using Basswood just doesn't allow for clean lines and no fuzz.

...and assembly begins:

 

Paint:

 

Cap and bolts were simple. I just used two different size brass nails, blackened them and cut the shaft real short. Used CA glue to set them in the holes I pre-drilled on the mini mill:

 

Aged the grating and Capstan before gluing into place on the deck:

 

I took these pictures last night and this morning I noticed that the grating was actually a bit raised above the deck. I had to pry it off and do a bit of sanding before reattaching...  I should've noticed earlier!

 

On to more gratings and deck fixtures including some of the first blocks for rigging!

Talk again in a few days!

 

[LyleK1]

Made some rope today.

What do you think?

The kit supplied stuff is not only crap but missed marked, as far as its size too.

The kit states the sizes as .15 mm, .25 mm, .8 mm. They are smaller.

I'm going with two sizes for both standing and running rigging.

With ability to change size for certain applications, the anchor line comes to mind, as one.

Here are 3 of 4 samples done today:

 

I haven't figured out the other size for the standing rigging.

 

[Dave_E]

Is that rope maker for hire? 😆 Outstanding! 👍

[LyleK1]

17 minutes ago, Dave_E said:

Is that rope maker for hire? 😆 Outstanding! 👍

It's pretty easy to do, Dave.

Just gotta get the rope walker and thread!

If your interested, I can steer you in the right direction to get started!

The stuff that comes in the kits is lousy, at best.

[LyleK1]

I bounced around a bit this week. Primarily because I needed to determine if more purchases for pieces was required.

More on that in a bit.

I started on the mizzen mast pin racks:

I used a round file to finish the shape I was looking for and some sand paper to round off the edges a bit.

The pin racks were straight forward:

And glued into place... I cut a few pieces of wood to use for spacing properly during the gluing. Pin racks on the port and starboard rails also completed and glued into place:

 

I am not fond of the blocks and deadeyes that come in the kits. But buying them online is expensive too!

So, after looking at several options, I decided to make the kit pieces work and frankly, they turned out better than I expected.

Here is a double block prior to doing anything:

Ugly, square and just not what I wanted on my ship!

 

I purchased a sanding barrel (not sure what its called), I think, from Model Shipways. I've had it for a while and assembled it to try out. I used a hand drill to do the work and the results are below:

After sanding all of the blocks and deadeyes, I'm happy to use them on the build!

The next step was to ream out the holes on every single one of these.... Ugh! It took 4 hours to drill them all out with a pin vise and drills.

I also, stained them. Elm was used during that time period for blocks and deadeyes. The colors reflect that but I did make the deadeyes a bit darker:

That's a chore I won't need to do later!

Anchor windlass is about done!

I'll post details on that fun little project next.

 

 

[tomganc]

31 minutes ago, LyleK1 said:

Hey Tom,

 I separated them by size and type and used tumbler for each…. About 2-3 minutes each.

The real time came in redrilling all the holes… about 3 hours. The staining was simple and took about an hour.

They are very useable but I’m still considering purchasing even better ones.

The ones sold at Dry-Dock Model and parts are really nice! Hard to pass on them.

Hiya

 

That's great, I will need to give it a go on my next build. I've already started with rigging so no point in changing half way through. I stained them and used slightly adjusted sizes so it isn't that bad. 

I was considering buying CNC blocks for my Victory but it would be a fortune. It's hundreds of blocks there so I decided against it. I've spent enough on all the additions already

 

Have a look at this website, they sell CNC blocks various sizes https://www.hismodel.com/index.php

 

Regards

Tom

[LyleK1]

9 hours ago, tomganc said:

Have a look at this website, they sell CNC blocks various sizes https://www.hismodel.com/index.php

 

Regards

Tom

Interesting site but probably not practical for US buyers. It takes forever to get anything through customs and shipping is a joke right now!

[LyleK1]

The anchor windlass was a fun project!

Lots of pieces to assemble and some mill work too.

First, I cut all the necessary pieces, some prefabbed and some hand fashioned:

 

The paw stanchion and paw were a simple matter of cutting pieces to glue to the existing laser cut piece. The only difficult part was ensuring that the pieces met the deck properly when installed... glued with sanding left to go:

 

The windlass needed to be covered with walnut veneer. I measured the circumference at both ends and determined the shape of the pieces to be cut. Once all were cut, I glued them in place one at a time using PVA glue and clothes pins to secure it to the surface until dry before moving on to the next piece:

With just a minor adjustment on the final piece, it came out good:

Some light sanding and then off to the mill for making the hole pattern:

I blackened the gear and assembled the pieces:

Dry assembly of the windlass:

For this assembly, I decided to use a Dutch oil stain:

And finally, I added the cleats... not a fan of the metal ones included in the kit but decided to use them anyway. Painted and glued into place using CA glue. The assembly is complete and ready for installation:

 

I'll get a picture of it mounted in the next post... On to more deck fixtures and work!

Thanks for stopping in!

 

[tomganc]

6 hours ago, LyleK1 said:

Interesting site but probably not practical for US buyers. It takes forever to get anything through customs and shipping is a joke right now!

Silly me... didn't realise you are US based. You are right the shipping will take forever with tons of extra costs. I'm sure you will find something similar on your side of the poond.

 

Regards

Tom

[LyleK1]

First, a look at the anchor windlass in place:

 

Next up was the foremast pin stanchion. A straightforward assembly done much the way the other stanchions are/were done previously in the build log. Placement was simple too:

 

The main mast pin rack stanchion was next. Although, it is similar to the others, this one did pose some potential problems. The bilge pump assemblies are very close to the stanchion and one of the companionways. Additionally, the brass pieces for the pumps did not fit over the brass tubes. I had to drill them out to 6mm ID for a good fit. Once drilled out I placed them over the tubes and checked the fit of the stanchion pieces:

The uprights go through the deck into notches on the deck below. However, these did not line up as well as I though they should and I filed the main deck openings a bit to ensure proper fitting:

 

The main cargo hatch covers were next. Cutting and fitting the pieces was timing consuming but a proper fit was important, for looks, if nothing else:

I used a jig to ensure a 90 degree fit with the proper amount above the deck for the remaining pieces to mate to:

The outer frames completed:

 

The two companionway hatches were assembled with some difficulty! The pieces provided in the kit did not allow for a good fit and required some milling to fix the problem. Also, keeping the assembly square was a bit of struggle due to the small size of the pieces. In the end, it finally came together:

 

Lastly, were cover pieces for the cargo hatch. Again, a good fit was desired for appearances! I cut all the pieces, sanded, marked and drilled the holes for the hardware:

I cleaned up the pencil marks and blackened the hardware using the same method used throughout the build:

And the final assembly:

Weathering, aging and some staining to come on these assemblies.

More deck work coming up!

[Aj73]

Hi

Does anyone know where I could get the printed instructions for the HMS Bounty 1/48 Artesenia Latina? My 74 father can not use cds and we got neither printed with the model kit. Can contact me at.       orion_7thstar@hotmail.com

Thank you

Aj

Canada

[LyleK1]

58 minutes ago, Aj73 said:

Hi

Does anyone know where I could get the printed instructions for the HMS Bounty 1/48 Artesenia Latina? My 74 father can not use cds and we got neither printed with the model kit. Can contact me at.       orion_7thstar@hotmail.com

Thank you

Aj

Canada

Do you have this kit?

Do you have the picture book?

Do you have the plans (big posters)?

[allanyed]

https://artesanialatina.net/en/contact/contact

[LyleK1]

Last of the pin rails being placed:

 

The cook stove was a relatively easy build but definitely has some quirks. The pieces being metal, all had to have some of the casting seams sanded off:

Using a piece of angle iron (aluminum, actually!), I assembled the pieces:

Obviously, it needs paint. I tried black paint on the smoke stack pieces and was not impressed, brush marks and easily removed paint... Tried my blackening solution as a possible solution and was mildly surprised:

It took 3 coats but eventually I got the color and texture I was looking to achieve. I used my Dremel to remove the paint on the stacks and blackened them too:

Installed on the Bounty:

 

The half-pounder gun mounts were next up. These were just 5x5mm pieces that needed to be shaped and decorated with some carving:

Locating, notching and gluing into place took a little time but was not difficult. There are a total of 10 mounts. Before gluing, I drilled the hole in the tops of them to prepare for the guns to be mounted later on.

The gates were simple but the hinges were not! After multiple attempts of making a halfway decent looking hinge, without success, I remembered that I have some tiny hinges for another project. I took them to the disc sander and sanded them down to size, blackened them and glued into place:

Worked perfectly and looks good too!

 

Finally, the upper portion of the pumps were painted and the mechanism for the handle installed. The pumps were glued to the deck:

 

The shroud mount rails, cannons and a few remaining deck features are next. Additionally, I need to spend some time catching up on the weathering/aging of the latest components completed.