1/48 Italeri Hawk T.1A (On Hold)

[Danstream]

2 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thank you kindly for explaining that to me,  I have the Vallejo acrylic  flow improver  (put a few drops into my airbrush bowl with the paint and mix with a brush)    do you recomend Tamiya's  X1  Gloss Acrylic  for spraying  with?

Would I recommend? I am afraid I never used the Vallejo acrylics (I used only their metallic line), therefore it is difficult for me to formulate a recommendation between Vallejo and Tamiya paint systems. I simply put forward my experience with Tamiya which, as I said, worked well for me. If you suspect that Vallejo paints might give you problems, similarly to what you already experienced with the primer, then, yes, try to switch to Tamiya. Perhaps a trial with the Vallejo paint that you plan to use could give you preliminary indications about the results to be expected before committing it to the model.

Best regards,

Dan.

[Old Collingwood]

3 hours ago, Danstream said:

Would I recommend? I am afraid I never used the Vallejo acrylics (I used only their metallic line), therefore it is difficult for me to formulate a recommendation between Vallejo and Tamiya paint systems. I simply put forward my experience with Tamiya which, as I said, worked well for me. If you suspect that Vallejo paints might give you problems, similarly to what you already experienced with the primer, then, yes, try to switch to Tamiya. Perhaps a trial with the Vallejo paint that you plan to use could give you preliminary indications about the results to be expected before committing it to the model.

Best regards,

Dan.

Thank You Dan.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   so another update  -  well  you know those "Two steps forward - Three steps Back"   situations?    yep that gremlin has bit me  with this   - I decided to polish up the Black primer  and it buffed up quite well, then I thought  "Heck im going to use it as the top coat"     so  there was some White detail that needed painting on the canopy  I masked it and painted it by hand  - saved getting the airbrush out  and easy-er to control, this was then dried  and little bit of tape I found in my box removed,  its left quite a messy job to be honest and will need re masking and painting.

So  I thought I would bang on with the decals  -  starting with the Two tail decs, they are colourful  pieces and cover the whole tail, I cut the first one out  put some micro set on then placed it  -  its  slightly over size to part wrap and meet in the centre of the leading edge,   nope wasn't going to work  and it  split near the edge  - so off it came,  plan number Two  or Three  make it a normal Navy version  or the Anniversary  version but minus the tail  detail   - So I have started placing some of the other decs on it  for now.

 

So not as I had hoped  and a bit disappointing.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

So  thnking about where I am  -  will it work?     after applying  all the decs  and touching up the frame work around the canopy,  If I get a small jar of Acrylic Clear Gloss  and spray all over  Including the  canopy   will it be Ok  and not  haze the galzing on the canopy  - I know some have used Future  or over here its called Pleadge  - or would another modeling brand  work?

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

7 hours ago, Kevin said:

very nice OC,

Sorry just seen your reply, thank you  Kevin.

 

OC.

[lmagna]

40 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

I know some have used Future  or over here its called Pleadge  - or would another modeling brand  work?

Same stuff, only different names. Just basically a clear acrylic finish used to protect the surface it is used on and give it a high gloss.

[Old Collingwood]

10 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Same stuff, only different names. Just basically a clear acrylic finish used to protect the surface it is used on and give it a high gloss.

Thank you Lou,      should airbrush OK  I take it?

 

OC.

[lmagna]

4 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

should airbrush OK  I take it?

Does for me with my cheapie brush/compressor.

 

Except for clear parts like canopies and such. They always seem to come out better if dipped and allowed to drip dry slowly.

Edited November 12, 2021 by lmagna

[Old Collingwood]

11 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Does for me with my cheapie brush/compressor.

 

Except for clear parts like canopies and such. They always seem to come out better if dipped and allowed to drip dry slowly.

I was a bit hasty  and took the masking of the canopy thats glued down - so to finish it off  correctly  (it needs to be quite shiny)  I think I will need to spray over the whole thing  after my decs are on, its like a satin  smooth finish now  but not a high gloss like it needs to be.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Is this the right  "Future"   Acrylic Polish  that  people use,   it seems to be hard to get over here  this is the only one I found in Flea bay.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222435349634?hash=item33ca2e1482:g:sucAAOSwuxFYuGv~

 

OC.

[lmagna]

It seems to match in the description, but also seems to be rebottled and renamed in smaller containers and priced ten times higher.

 

The stuff I have/use is a household size bottle that when I bought it still said 'Future' on it. It has been through many label changes over the years, but is appears that SC Johnson has settled on 'Pledge' as the name. They keep saying that the contents have not changed only the label. I think the current US label looks like this:

But it could also be This

One of the most aggravating aspects of the product is the constant label changing! It was so bad that a guy named Matt Swan wrote an article, "The

Complete Future" that covered the many names of the product, including the names used in other countries. If memory serves the UK name was "Klear" or something like that. It was a great article but seems to be missing these days. There are those who feel that the days of 'Future' are in the past and that there are better purpose designed hobby products available to the hobbyist these days, your product may be one of them. But dated or not I still use the original stuff partly because it works and partly because it is hard to beat $10 or less per gallon in anything that is usable in model making. 

 

It is not the in depth original article but I was able to find this: http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT096-Future-Swan/00.shtm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

led

Edited November 12, 2021 by lmagna

[lmagna]

Another  review gauged toward the UK user.

 

[Danstream]

Dear OC, I read this morning the threads of your post. As a first suggestion, I would try to remove the variable 'canopy' from the solution of the problem.

8 hours ago, lmagna said:

Except for clear parts like canopies and such. They always seem to come out better if dipped and allowed to drip dry slowly.

I agree with the above, please consider that eye is extremely demanding when it comes to transparent parts. One speck of dust or an overrun of paint will stick out like sore thumb. I understood you removed the masking, but the Hawk canopy is quite easy to mask if you do not mask the arching 'frame' in its center. Consider that that arching thing is not painted on the real aircraft, so a difference in finish with the rest of the airframe will not be a problem (see, f.i., https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:BAE_Hawk_Mk.51_(HW-341)_Tour_de_Sky_2014-08-10_03.JPG  ) because it is actually like that.

 

Therefore, you can re-mask the canopy using thin stripes of tape (say, 1 mm wide, cut from a regular masking tape) to contour the real frames that are quite regularly shaped. The thin tape will be flexible enough to follow the gently curved parts. Then, the exceeding lengths can be trimmed away with a sharp new blade. Once the contour is done, you can fill in the rest by a mosaic of tape pieces and/or liquid mask (there are tutorial about this on the web).

 

Once the canopy is out of the problem, you can consider which paint is best to use for the rest. Future/Pledge might be an option, but I never used it as a final gloss coat because the original product is not available here in Holland (there is a similar one which I use when I need a quick intermediate protective layer). I use instead Tamiya X-22 Clear, 50% thinned with leveling thinner sprayed with a large nozzle (0.4 mm) at low pressure (+/- 17 psi) in several passes. Anyway, whatever product you will use, without the canopy in the way, probably it will be OK. Just protect the wet paint from falling dust (if you spray in a boot this will not be a problem). Please consider to make some trials on old plastic or a plastic spoon.

 

Sometimes, building an aircraft model might be a continuous crisis management, it happens constantly to me, but this is also the fun of it 🙂.

 

Good luck,

Dan.

Edited November 12, 2021 by Danstream

[Egilman]

OC if your looking for a crystal clear finish for clear plastic, dipping in acrylic floor finish, (future, klear, etc.) is the only way to go, if your looking for a polished shiny mirror finish over paint then acrylic floor finish is NOT the way to go... (it will come out semi-gloss every time.. (even with multiple coats) this has to do with the rough surface all paints have when dry especially flat paints...

 

What you want for a mirror shiny finish over paint is diamond finish, the stuff car modelers use to get their mirror finishes... (it also comes in regular quart cans that can be used in an airbrush)

Edited November 12, 2021 by Egilman

[Old Collingwood]

Thank you All for the kind help  and advice,    moving forward  and taking all the advice into account  - I think my best move is to  leave the canopy in place as it might break trying to remove it then  re-mask it,  I will continue to add the decals  and in the mean time get a jar of a clear acrylic gloss top coat  and when the decaling is finshed  and the top coat arrives  - airbrush it over.

 

OC.

[Danstream]

 

Actually, I meant masking the canopy without removing it ...

 

[lmagna]

10 hours ago, Egilman said:

What you want for a mirror shiny finish over paint is diamond finish,

Sounds like what I would want if I decided to take down one of my stash of 60s racing sports cars and build it.

[Old Collingwood]

3 hours ago, Danstream said:

 

Actually, I meant masking the canopy without removing it ...

 

Thank you for all your imput Dan👍

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Folks I have decided to put this on the back boiler  - lost my mojo with it.

 

But Im back on another fave  -

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Hi all,     so  this  is  on hold  and  sitting in my  display case,  I have not  touched it   for ages  but decided  to do a  few improved  re edits  of  some of the  pics  posted  - cant help  it  just love messing around  with my pic  files  in my Lightroom  and  Topaz Denoise AI.

 

OC.