Cutty Sark by rfolsom - Billing Boats

[DSiemens]

I've had the same issue.  I switched to Testors model paint.  Not acrylic but I've had much better results.  

[rfolsom]

Testor's paint bring me back to my plastic modeling days... (last plastic model I made was around 1984-85).  I might have to do a test with wood, my new preferred modeling medium.

 

Speaking of paint, and acrylic, I did a paint test on my first port and starboard freeing port riveting details, and to my (slight) dismay, the first thin coats pretty much obliterate the rivets with my naked eyes.  The next two pictures, however, seem to show them better than my eyes do, along with a lot of debris on the waterway and around the ports, especially seen on the second picture.

Most of this debris is due to re-sanding the inside of the freeing ports and bringing black paint dust onto the deck from the exterior.  I used a wide brush to clear it away, but much still remains. 

I must take time to swab the deck...

 

First picture is of the first port freeing port, second is of the first starboard freeing port.  Starboard inner bulwark riveting details are finished (except for painting) and port side is 75% done.  Even if most of the rivets are obliterated in the painting process, I won't sweat, I can live with it.

 

Also notice the holes drilled in the waterway trim against the bulwarks; these will receive the deadeye stays and were my compromise to actually mounting them directly to my thin, 1/32" basswood bulwarks, as on the real ship.

 

~Bob

Edited March 3, 2014 by rfolsom

[NenadM]

Heloooo Bob, I glad you saddled horse again

 

Very nice work.

 

You noticed and catch serious problem with deadeye stays, which also torture myself. Mount them before or after mounting deadeye rail ? And how ?

 

I`d like to put them on way I experimented as them are mounted on Her Majesty, but, on some places on my bulwarks this is not possible ( consequences of my earlier mistakes) so, your idea can be solution for all of that to look much neater. When I  mount stanchions first, then I could look at whole sight, and try to imagine whole thing with deadeye stays, is there place for such a approach. On some places there will be pretty much crowd ( stanchions + stays + ...)

 

From the other point of look, under that position there will be so much things to add ... For instance - largest crowd is in section near deck house and life boats over it. Can anybody be able to see anything under rails ?

 

BTW - believe or not, lurking on MSW and following/researching on some logs, I just recently became aware of the enormous work ahead of us. I think that we are now about 5-10% of whole work. For instance, look at the horizontal masts and ALL elements there !!! I want all of this !!! I want all chains !!! I want all running rigging !!! I want all sails, including ALL stunsails !!!

 

This requires YEARS of work !!!

 

With my approach (make a mess and clean it), rather YEARS^YEARS

 

Nenad

Edited March 3, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

A survey for the CS fleet (and everybody else);  please put in your votes:  Should the waterway be grey, or reddish-brown (rust?) color?  Mine is already grey, but I like the looks of those who chose the red.  In this, I'm not looking for historical accuracy, per Se, just everyone's opinion on the color.  Please give your honest opinion (I trust the wisdom of the masses) as it's not a big deal for me to repaint right now.  A month from now it will be...

 

Thank you for any and all input.

 

~Bob

[rfolsom]

Nenad;  if you read Lou's post on Luca's log, he mentioned that the deadeye posts were probably anchored to the sheer strake originally, which would coincide with my choice of not mounting them onto the bulwarks (I don't have that choice, either way).

 

And yes, we have a h*** of a lot of work ahead!  But I look at each step as a milestone.  Tonight (actually about 15 minutes ago) I finished the inner bulwark riveting details.  I have pieces of shredded aluminum cans all over the place. (One, complete with simulated rivets, was stuck to the bottom of my bare foot as I walked to the bathroom, but the job is now done).

 

It would be really cool if we all stay in touch for the years it takes us to finish our builds....(or years to the power of years..)

 

Maybe at that time we could all meet somewhere and drink a toast to our accomplishments!!

[patrickmil]

Bob, the riveting detail you have put into the bulwarks is incredible. It goes without saying that the metal stancions you have fabricated are tiny works of art in themselves. When the day comes that we all get together to show off our work, I will definitely raise a glass to your Cutty Sark.

[NenadM]

 

It would be really cool if we all stay in touch for the years it takes us to finish our builds....(or years to the power of years..)

 

Maybe at that time we could all meet somewhere and drink a toast to our accomplishments!!

 

I agree and intend to until MSW exist

 

Drink a toast - I ll be very glad to, but ... In near/far future I do not see my way to USA. On the other side, if life gets you to the Europe, it will be just a coincidence to come to small and insignificant Serbia. Long distance, and target friendly match is more than expensive. But, I ll be very glad ... who knows what life bring with ... my children are near to their way to fly from nest, and intend to look for their happiness out from Serbia. Who knows, maybe just in Lakewood ???   

Edited March 4, 2014 by Nenad M

[dgbot]

You are doing a fantastic job.  Years ago I picked up Longridges book on the Cutty. If you can get ahold of it you will have an invaluable source of techniques on the model.

David B

[NenadM]

... Should the waterway be grey, or reddish-brown (rust?) color?  ...

 

My vote

 

Huh

 

If waterway is accurate, then it is gray as a base deck color

 

From my aesthetic standpoint, gray deck do not match with "teak" color of deck houses and teak rails. Also gray waterway do not match with something simillar to brown of deck colour ( as on deck photos taken after rain).

 

In my opinion whole upside look of Her Majesty will be most beautiful and in visual shape if everything upside has "brown/teak" or light "brown/teak" light color gamut. On the other side, option for brown/teak colour gives, maybe to much, contrast to white parts ( inside bulwarks, life boats, base of mast ...) than gray deck color. But, if you decide to brown/teak option, other details on deck will be less visible. But this is aesthetic issue, and depends of your choice - accurate model or nice model

 

This is real riddle, and for now I am close to "rust" colour of waterway ( as I did yesterday) with very slightly and light  "brown/teak" colored deck planks. To keep "brown/teak" light color gamut and at the same time to keep contrasts 

 

When time to replank decks come ( I hope soon) I must do some testings

Edited March 4, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

Yep, this is why I'm asking opinions;  Thank you, Nenad;  I'd like to hear from Lou and Dognut....

 

and what happened to Spencer??

[NenadM]

Spencer is no active in building from a while. Dognut had internet approach problem in work with intranet moderator, and also internet problem in home, and I do not know did he resolved it. From time to time I see them in list of active members, with rare posts in other topics. I am afraid that they abandon CS modeling. Pity. They are very frendly with lot of humor in their posts

Edited March 4, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

So, their's just four of us left?

[NenadM]

 

It seems to me that the real masters outgrown this model, and for other mortals is too complex and demanding

Edited March 4, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

Nenad;

 

It is worse in my other build. Some people I talked to every day I haven't heard from in months.  The exception is Patrick, who is about to finish the US Brig Niagara

[rfolsom]

Niagara's motto;  "Don't Give Up The Ship"  extrapolate to the build...

[3qq]

You've done a nice clean work have inspired me

[NenadM]

Bob

 

I did some re-search about members or potenrial members of CS fleet on MSW

 

Active builds

 

Lou van Wijhe, honorary respectable member, even without (still, we hardly wait) building log on MSW

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5096-cutty-sark-picture-portfolio/#entry147214

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5178-cutty-sark-constructional-details/#entry149283

 

 

Orcatkt, topic

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5417-196-revell-cutty-sark-and-constitution/#entry155913

started 31 january 2014

last post 15 february 2014

Omarcs, topic

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4667-cutty-sark-by-omarcs-scientific-scale-1140-approx/#entry134274

Started 11 december 2013

Last post 24 januar 2014

 

Luca_B, topic

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5250-cutty-sark-by-luca-b-al-scale-184/#entry151385

Started 22 january 2014

Last post today

 

Parsifal, Topic

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5722-cutty-sark-by-parsifal-178-kit-sergal/#entry164520

Started 20 february 2014

Last post yesterday

 

Crooman, topic

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4778-cutty-sark/#entry137579

Started 20 decmber 2013

Last post 01 january 2014

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4933-lost-plans-moved-by-moderator/#entry142087

Started 01 january 2014

Last post 03 january 2014

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5113-cutty-sark-by-crooman-scale-1115-constructo-kitlaunched-in-1869-in-dumbarton-scotland/#entry147662

Started 13 january 2014

Last post yesterday

 

Rfolsom

 

Nenad

 

  

 

Builds in preparing / paused / stand by

 

keelhauled, topic

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1000-cutty-sark-by-keelhauled-mantua-kit-bashed-first-wooden-ship-build/#entry15949

Started 06 martch 2013

Last post 04 february 2014

 

brian2_h, topic

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4353-cutty-sark-by-brian2-h-del-prado-190/#entry125174

Started 18 november 2013

Last post 28 januar 2014

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4381-cutty-sark-by-brian2-h-billing-boats/#entry125840

Started 20 november 2013

Last – same day

 

Dognut, topic

 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2842-cutty-sark-by-dognut-constructo-scale-1115-1869-first-build/#entry78161

Started 12 july 2013

Last post 05-12-2013 and 22-01-2014 (by me)

 

Jerome L.Olivier, topics

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3081-cutty-sark-by-jerome-lolivier-del-prado-scale-190/#entry85060

 

Started 31 july 2013

Last post 09 november 2013

 

SpencerC, topics

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4087-cutty-sark-instructions/#entry116043

 

 

„Future“ members, without building log, who post about their build

 

 

 

joeinva1937

Toshimoriguchi

Coastie2005

fifthace

 

And there are some people who mentioned they have done their built long ago, without or with pictures in Gallery

 

Popeye

KimatHm

Edited March 5, 2014 by Nenad M

[coffeebeans]

Jeez didn't know there were so many builds of the cutty, shame so many have been halted maybe indefinitely

[dgbot]

The Cutty is a beautful vessel.  However it can be a bearcat.  Many who start it do not understand that it is a very large and major commitment.  I built it many years ago and found it to be rough to my standards.  i have been approached by peopl to build it but when I gave them a price they always say no. 

David B

[NenadM]

Some photos, David ?

[dgbot]

Thi was before digital and most of my photos from back then got thrown out by accident when I moved.  The hull was a breeze.  but the iron work and the stanchions were not the easy iest to duplicate to scale. Much I had to fabricate using my lathe and a ton of solder.  The book that saved me was Longridge.  This is the bible for the Cutty.  If you can find a copy get. It was this model that really pushed me to learn metal working.

David B

[rfolsom]

David;

Thanks for the nice words;  I do not have Longridge's book; I rely on a set of G. Campbell's plans, along with his book "China Tea Clippers". 

 

Since most of my hull and decking are already finished, do you think it would still be worth investing in Longridge's book for the spars and rigging?

 

BTW, both Nenad and myself would really enjoy seeing some pictures..

 

~Bob

[prutser]

Hello Bob. Longridges book is really worth the money. You can order it second hand at Amazon.com from $23,38. The second part of the book describes the masts and rigging very clearly. Following your build with interest. Regards, Richard.

[NenadM]

Still waiting for pictures, David

 

PS

 

Do somebody find Longridge in digital edition ?

Edited March 14, 2014 by Nenad M

[NenadM]

Bob, please take a closer look to your C-plans

 

Did you got them on paper or in digital version ?

 

I attach three crops from my plans ( from  ...   internet ...  ), and you can notice that crops from plans 2 and 3 are not readable in small letters. In plan No 1 everything is OK. But it seems that plans 2 and 3 are scaneed in unsatisfactory resolution

 

Are this deetails on your plans 2 and 3 much readable ( little letters) ?

 

 

Edited March 16, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

Nenad;  my plans are in paper version, and I was lucky enough to receive two copies each in my 30-40 year old incomplete kit purchased off of ebay.  I can read the small print ok on all sheets.  One set of plans is mounted to my wall for quick reference; the other set I keep safe and copy sections for enlargement and printing in photoshop as needed.  Here is a sample from sheet three for your reference;  hope this helps...

 

~Bob

[rfolsom]

Ok.  Stanchions have been done.  All holes for deadeye strops and davits are drilled.  Most of my pinrails have been drilled and roughed out, so I'll start installing pinrails on the main deck moving from aft forward, adding inner bulwark details as I progress.

 

First (low quality, sorry..) photo shows the pinrail section from the poop front bulkhead moving forward.  I've built these in sections, and these were the easiest to rough out.  (One deadeye hole, three belaying pin holes, and two davit holes apiece). plus two perpindicular eylet holes...

 

One side shows belaying pins in place for scale, the other shows the drill bit I will use to align the pieces with the pre-drilled davit hole in the waterway.

 

Second and third photos show my latest, small, pathetic, progress. The aft mooring pipes.  As I mentioned before, I am using round brass pieces as opposed to oval ports, which I cannot find. (Or fabricate!)

 

I can live with this...  (I hope)  Outside rims will be painted black, inside rims painted white. (one inside already painted)

[rfolsom]

Belaying pin holes are drilled very close to the inboard edge, The larger deadeye holes are approximately centered (Even larger Davit holes being more outboard).  I fabricated a small concave sanding block by cutting a 1 cm length of plastic tube from a writing  pencil in half lengthwise, and affixing a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper to the inside surface.  This works well for rounding the rail edges without disturbing the belaying pin holes.

 

~Bob

[NenadM]

...  I can read the small print ok on all sheets.  ...

 

Hey Bob, I feel free to ask you to read for me from plans when time for rigging comes. My Plan No 1 is OK, but on No2 nad No3, there will be some problems. But, far far away from now

 

Is it OK ? ( If I in meantime do not decide to order from Museum)

[NenadM]

Nice work Bob, keep on with photos

 

All that little holes in narrow space ... 

 

Mounting dead-eyes and nails - before or after ? If after - when - on which stage you plan it to do ?