Cutty Sark by rfolsom - Billing Boats

[NenadM]

Hard choice  - C-plans or photos

 

Bob, even similar questions banged me, folks here are right - who will see it exept you and followers of your log ? Or some modeler who know exactly where and what to look at. So, I think 99% watchers of finished beauty with all sails spread have no chance to see that there is no nibbing.

 

In my log I started question about big mistake I made - if anybody can see it ? 

 

Nobody

 

And to tell you a secret : Number of stanchions and vertical rivet slices on the right and of the left side IS NOT THE SAME !!!! Working automaticaly with 1/4 of brain ... stuppid me, but I simply had no will to ripp it all and to go again

You think anybody will see it ?

 

I dont think so

So, between ripping wrong side, and leave it as it is, I decide to leave it

 

Keep on my friend, you have exelent decking work, and believe me, that is only that watchers will see

[rfolsom]

True words of wisdom;  I suppose we will always see our mistakes...

[dgbot]

Bob, there is nothing wrong with your decision.  Every now and then a choice has to be made on redoing an operation or part or moving on.  This choice has plagued all of us at one time or another. 

David B

[popeye the sailor]

yea,  it tough to decide what is doable,  when stumbling across things to correct.  learning little tricks come in handy.  I believe those would be called margin planks.   you could make up a pair,  trace and remove the necessary planking to accommodate them,  or sand them down thinner,  making the inner edge thinner than the outer edge,  and simply cement them on top.  however you do this,  when all the added detail over shadows it,  this repair will not be noticeable.  your doing great Bob. 

[rfolsom]

Ah, yes, Popeye;  margin planks... I couldn't come up with the term when writing my post...  The nibbing was hard enough on the main deck when I planned ahead;  I feel I will screw up the forcastle deck completely if I decide to try digging into it, so no nibs it will be!  I have sanded the 1/32" planks, but will probably go a little more. 

 

Thanks for all the encouraging words, everyone!

[rfolsom]

Ouch!!  In my attempt to align the forcastle deck with the bowsprit hole, everything came apart...  Easily reparable to the way it was;  but also a way to fix old problems... It's late, time to sleep on this one....

 

~Bob

[NenadM]

Devil sometimes is not so black as seems ...

 

[rfolsom]

Yes, Nenad.

 

Maybe I'll fix nagging problems  (nibbing!) but also I was not satisfied how the carrick and center pawl bits met the main deck.  I might also try my hand with the rounded moldings you were working on for the edges. 

 

In the negative sense, I was looking forward to completing the main rail;  after that, the moldings and the cap rail, then I was planning to invert the model and fix any stray copper flaws, install the rudder, and permanently mount the ship to a display base.

 

It might be time to take a break and do some more work on the Niagara....

[rfolsom]

Ok.  After some thought, and playing with pieces, the only problem I plan on fixing is the camber of the deck.  You can see the braces underneath the forcastle deck... these will be extended to give the required camber to the repaired deck.  (I am clueless why I did not do this in the first place, but this assembly was made over a year ago, and my mid-forties brain seems not to have recorded it... )

[dgbot]

Do not feel bad.  Very few kits have the camber in them and never mention anything about them.  Therefore it is to forget.  Out of sight out of mind.

David B

[popeye the sailor]

sad to see that happen......reminds me when I crushed the bow cap of the Nordkap with a pin pusher    I hope the repair goes well

[patrickmil]

Ouch Bob! It seems as though you have found the silver lining to this storm cloud though.

[clearway]

ouch bob- reminds me of when i completed the wheelhouse on my scratchbuilt model of "clearway" only to find the plans didn't follow the same dimensions as the real thing as to height! It just didn't look right compared to photos so i had to scrap several weeks work and start again- fun isn't it aaaargh.

Keith

[NenadM]

I believe you will fix this on desired way

 

Nenad

[NenadM]

Bob

 

I had not enough time this days for longer posts. I am sure that you will fix this "ouch" in best way you decide to do this

 

Maybe to think about to get something invisible under deck to make it stronger. Many forces will be collected there when rope time comes, and your deck seem so fragile ...  

[popeye the sailor]

perhaps this would be an opportune time to thing about the windlass and how the anchor chain is rigged. I was not satisfied with the routing on my Revell 1:96 Cutty build. the assembly calls for multiple pieces of chain. the way I've done it here, only requires two pieces of chain and your able to wrap it around the windlass in order to make it look more functional.

 

http://cuttysarkdrydock.wordpress.com/2011/09/23/the-cutty-sark-windlass-revamp/

 

here you can also view the instruction sheets.....it may give you an idea

[rfolsom]

Popeye;  thanks for the advice; I consulted "China Tea Clippers" by Campell, and it is told that the chain was measured out from the chain locker, brought up over the windlass for two full turns, and then sent through the hawse holes (pipes) to be shackled to the anchor.  I need to drill my hawse holes before I repair the forecastle.. maybe install a couple of "fish wires" to lead the chain;  my current chain is raw copper, which needs blackening, and at 9 links per inch;  scale should be around 11 links per inch...

Edited April 18, 2014 by rfolsom

[popeye the sailor]

if you can see the Revell instructions, they simply have it going under the windlass. the first time I built this model, I did it that way.....but I didn't like it. when I got this kit, it was one of the first things I thought about. two hole at the chain gates.......I should have wrapped the chain inboard to outboard, they wouldn't be so close to the stairs. I used a wire to get the chain to go through the holes I drilled under the fore castle decking to the Hawse holes. it worked out really sweet.

 

I hope your repair is going well.

[clearway]

i used home made stud link chain using a set of needle nose pliers- still hurts thinking about it- but is over scale- to be honest though doesn't really stand out and figures out at about the same links per inch as yours. by the time the ships bell, jib sails sheets, forestays and heads are put in the windlass isnt really noticable as they all distract from it!

Keith

[rfolsom]

Thanks, everyone, for the nice comments and tips;  I just need to sit down and start tinkering with everything again...  Hope to make progress soon!

 

~Bob

[rfolsom]

Well, Nuts. 

 

After backing away from the build for a few days, looking at it fresh, I noticed that my measurements were off for the four bow portholes.  I also noticed that my bulkheads foreward are too big vertically, occupying three plank widths toward the keel.  These errors cannot be practically fixed without major reconstruction, so will be left as-is.  I will, however, pry loose my white rub rails and re-align so the flow will be even toward the bow.

 

This mistake shows how errors can be compounded when one stick's to only one reference point (in my case the top of the planking).

 

Measuring twice may indeed be enough, but measure twice from AT LEAST THREE different reference points; any discrepancies will be found this way!!

 

  Live and Learn.... 

[WackoWolf]

 

Measuring twice may indeed be enough, but measure twice from AT LEAST THREE different reference points; any discrepancies will be found this way!!

That is the right way to measure, always do it from more then one point and this way if anything is off you will find it.

[rfolsom]

No progress as of late, but after pulling out my webcam that I bought as a novelty for $5 a year ago (I'd never used it, but for 5 bucks for a Microsoft LifeCam who could go wrong...) I found that it took excellent stills and focused much better up close than my digital camera; especially under low-light conditions.  Here's some new pics of my same build... (Still unfixed deck "ouch" on pic 4.)

[clearway]

looking good- i worked out that i cut approx 3200 tiles using copper dolls house tape on mine!!!!!

Keith

[patrickmil]

Those are great pictures! The copper is very well detailed.

[NenadM]

Exelent, Bob

Just exelent

[rfolsom]

Ok;  I haven't posted in awhile due mainly to a really bad case of the flu that had me, then the admiral, down for the count for about 3 weeks last month.  Needless to say, very little progress has been made, but I am now continuing with my "bulwark trim panel strip" that I started awhile back.  These are 0.5 x 5mm walnut strips, 16 inches long, laid out on my enlarged copies of the Campell plans, with 1/32" x 1/16" x 5 mm long  pre-stained basswood vertical uprights glued along the length of the strip.  I then use a small wooden jig that fits around each upright to drill holes that are then connected together to make the oval cutouts.

 

Four of these will be made, two aft (p&s) and two forward (p&s).  There is a small amount of material at the top that will be sanded away to align with the top of the bulwarks;  hence the ovals' offset towards the bottom of the strip.  I am following Campells plans, and each oval panel is not regularly spaced, and vary in length.  (I am accounting for the negligible curvature of the hull in this area).

 

As can be seen, some (many?) of the oval panels are out of shape;  those beyond repair will be cut out of the strip and remade...  This is a work in progress, and I'm getting better shaping these things as I go along.  I'll do a final Q.C. check before affixing the strips... they won't be perfect, just something I can live with, and better to attempt than ignore!! 

Edited June 11, 2014 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

The main rails have been pre-stained underneath, pre drilled for all deadeye stays, belaying pins, and eyebolts;  sanded and shaped... the remaining 4-5mm of bulkhead above the rail will then be painted white in intervals to provide a background for the strips to be affixed to.

[popeye the sailor]

coppering looks great..........looks as though it's aging   those bulwark panels are a nice bit of detail......I've not seen this in any builds,  besides yours and Nenad's.........it adds quite a bit!   good to see your back at the table.

[NenadM]

Im glad you are well, and hope to see your nice progress more often.

What did you do with fore deck?

 

BTW I have new food receipt for you !!!

Edited June 11, 2014 by Nenad M