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Posted

In the video below on the assembly of SHIPYARD laser-cut blocks the guy uses a liquid, honey-like glue, that seems to set quite rapidly. What kind of glue may this be ?

 

 

Wrote to the guys a week ago, but no response yet ...

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted
Just now, wefalck said:

What kind of glue may this be ?

Clear, quick set, absolutely no shear stress or prise struss -  cellulose nitrate adhesive - Duco here-  maybe Ambroid in some places?

 

I would not use it to assemble a model, but it is quick and dirty to fit a round toothpick into a piece of stiff packing foam to use as a custom size PVA spreader, applicator.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Well, I would like to know too, it looks useful.

The 'honey' looks and behaves exactly like an industrial acid catylised resin adhesive I used in the '80s. It can't be that same product because that was a two-part adhesive: the 'honey' was put on one component and the acid catalyst was brushed on the other part. When the two were brought together you had about 20 seconds of wriggle-time before a sudden bite occured. The bond was very strong and full strength was achieved in minutes.

The 'honey' behaved exactly like the goo in the video and I used it in a very similar way many times. It would not surprise me at all to find this is a 21st century new-and-improved version. If so, I hope it doesn't smell like the '80s version.

Will be watching for news.

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

Posted (edited)

Just looks like a thick hide glue variant to me.  Nothing special, and if made for purpose may explain why its in a nondescript bottle.

Edited by Justin P.
Posted
4 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Hide glue is normally used warm, isn’t it ?

In most cases yes.   But Titebond sells a type that looks almost exactly like the stuff in that video that is ready to use with no heat.   Also, there is nothing to say the person in the video didn't have that jar on a warmer....    Its just a guess, but it looks like hide glue, or maybe "Old Brown Glue," another variant of similar make.

 

'

Posted
On 1/19/2021 at 9:33 AM, Justin P. said:

Titebond sells a type that looks almost exactly like the stuff in that video that is ready to use with no heat.'

Titebond hide glue uses water rather than heat to soften and can be reactivated with water. I have, one one occasion, needed to undo a glued joint, about 40mm square so it took a bit of soaking to get right in but it came apart ok, and the original glue just needed a dab top-up when it came to reassembling.

 

Apart from being an indoor adhesive the only downside, for some uses, is setup time, I think they recommend 30 or 60 minutes clamp time (full strength 24 hours). I've used it on a leatherwork stitching pony where it's under considerable stress with no problems.

 

Mark D

Posted
Posted

I think it's likely that it is Butapren, a kind of super strong rubber cement. I've seen it sold on a Polish paper modeler shop site that has some connection to Shipyard. It's commonly sold in tube form, but I think it can be purchased by the can. But, I've only seen it with Polish label, so you'd probably have to find some local equivalent. 

KLEJ-BUTAPREN-DO-GUMY-OBUWIA-SKORY-40-ML-MOCNY.jpeg.fe043fce38233f167734cc50441603fd.jpeg

Butapren_butapren-Zdj-cie-w-wysokiej-rozdzielczo-ci-bc2a5e052f3798d966b2c0e2e2dea42a.thumb.jpg.9a8dab5127ee635e19c61252acc9def2.jpg

Posted

That could be. In Germany the classical polychloroprene glue is Pattex and in my youth it was sold in tins. However, it was much for 'stringy' thatn the stuff in the video.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

Every organic solvent has a smell and some of them smell quite nicely (no, I am not a 'sniffer' ...). It depends on how big the area is to which you apply the glue. The main point is, whether the glue does the job. And: traditional hide glue does not necessarily smell very nice either.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted
Posted

Yes, that could be. Some kind of glutin glue kept from gelling by adding salt.

 

Or it could be a thick shellac solution, one with lots of shellac and little alcohol.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

I would vote against shellac. The color is in the ballpark of white/colorless/bleached shellac (dewaxed as well) but stickiness seems incorrect for the color.  Not that it isn’t possible, just I vote against. 

Posted

I see that one of the comments in the video is also a request regarding the question of glue type. Perhaps an answer will arrive in a year or two...

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