USS Constitution by histprof1066 - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1:100

[histprof1066]

Good Evening, 

 

I am writing this build log to chronicle my second ship build from Billings Boats, and altogether. I received the ship model as an early birthday gift, and could not wait to get started.

 

 

[histprof1066]

The very next day, I began working on the kit. I spent most of my time making sure that the bulkheads are plumb/level/square so there are no surprises later on in construction. 

 

I used a bit of CA and PVC wood glue in order to make sure I got a long lasting and thorough bond. 

 

 

 

 

After the glue dried, I worked on the ship a bit more at night. I cut out and added the false deck and some stern pieces. 

 

 

 

[histprof1066]

okay, the third day I have been working on this model, I began working on the pieces that will form the walls surrounding the cannon ports. Billings made this a double wall design, which I don't know if is standard for multiple builders - but I like it. Anyway, I put the balsa pieces up using the CA and wood glue, and allowed it to cure. Again, as it cured, I cut out the regular and special cannon ports. I have included a close up of one of these special ports. I also worked on the supporting pieces for the stern - all said, a very productive day.

 

 

 

 

 

The ports are installed and the hull is ready for fairing...I have only faired one hull before - that didn't go so well, so it may be a while before I post another update. Before I go, here's another view of the starboard side cannon ports. 

 

 

 

[Rob S]

She looks to be shaping up nicely!

[histprof1066]

Good morning, 

 

I am posting for the first time in a while because we had the 'snowstorm' and power loss for a week, hence - no progress. Anyway, I was able to put up the external bulwark, stern pieces, lower cannon ports, and have made a good deal of progress with the decking. I am using small diameter sewing thread to mimic the caulking between the planks after I have installed them on top of the false deck. So far, I have almost completed the decking, but the caulking is a different story. I have attached pictures. Thanks for reading and advice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[JeffT]

Its coming along great!

[histprof1066]

thanks! the cannon ports are giving me fits though. I am trying to find an easy way to make them perfectly square. 

[bonedoctor51]

Beautiful job.  I have used charcoal pencils rubbed on the sides of the planks to simulate caulking.

[histprof1066]

Thanks bonedoctor.

 

I have had to slow working on the ship, but I'm hoping to get back into it later this week. 

[bonedoctor51]

The wood is patient, so must the builder be.....

[histprof1066]

Hello, 

 

It has been some time since I posted anything in my build of the Constitution. I have had setbacks and not a good deal of time to work on the ship. I have become a father for a second time, and being a father of a young child gives me little hobby time. With that being said - I wouldn't change it for the world. I have assembled most of the hull, planked, painted, and coppered the bottom of the ship as best as I could find materials in my budget. I am including some photos from my journey to bring you up to speed. 

 

In the images, you can see my progress. hopefully they will stay in order and I will narrate based on what should be the construction process. 

 

I started planking and left a part at both ends off to be filled with balsa blocks and then planked over. The process was not good as you can see in the second photo so changes had to be made in order to continue progress. I finally finished planking (as you can see no doubt, my worst area of expertise) by the third photo, some areas needed a decent amount of filler. After sanding, you can see in the fourth photo the port side and how nicely it looked at least most of it, so I began searching for some model paints that were closer to the original Constitution. I found a medium green and used a rich black - all in a satin sheen instead of flat, that way I do not have the issue with it chipping off as much during the construction process (as I tend to be clumsy). I used a bit of tape to get the rough shapes of the areas for black and white around the cannon ports, and then with a #0 sized brush, cut in and straightened the lines as you can see in the 7-10th photos. I is in the 9th and 10th that I made the addition of the rear galleries, and I did a very nice job in my opinion, though the roof slope isn't what I wanted exactly, my carving skills are not the best, but sufficient. You can see the adornments in the 11th-13th photos showing my first attempts at wood bending - using a curling iron to get the trim pieces. I again used a #0 brush to paint and touch up in the areas so they would look smart. 

 

Because my planking job wasn't the best and I wanted as flawless looking of a hull as I could get, I decided to copper the hull. I used self adhesive copper tape in a 5mm width to simulate copper tiles instead of springing for a lot of tiles (hence a great deal of money as well). Anyway, knowing now what I do - I really bit off a great deal - especially not having done this before and doing what I could to mimic the coppering pattern on the actual ship. The coppering pattern on the ship seems to have varied historically with contemporary prints of the ship in the 17 and 1800's and then later with restorations in the 1900's so I figured that as long as I kept to a couple of rules, I ought to be okay. First being that I would copper from stern to bow. Second, that I start from keel and work up. Lastly, I try to follow the tape and cut where I need. I placed in areas of the hull that needed a bit more help 2 strips of copper tape, placed them on top of each other to give a thicker copper, and in others it was just one strip thick.

 

You can see from the 14-15th photos the way I was planning to do the coppering. I know some people state that Ought to have used a ponce wheel, but at the 1:100 scale, I received a lot of conflicting advice, so decided to not use a ponce wheel to simulate nail heads on the copper plates. In retrospect, this was probably a good idea. 

 

Coming to the 16th photo, you can see I finally finished a side of the coppering and it had become tarnished. So, I decided to use lemon juice and a toothbrush - something I had remembered in home economics about the acidity of lemons being used to rid metal of tarnish. I placed two coats on the finished hull when I finished coppering both the port and starboard sides. I then wiped the hull down with a wet cloth and let it dry. The 17th and 18th photos show the cleaned copper gleaming before I put a thick coat of Renaissance Wax to the hull. I let it dry probably a bit too much before I started to buff, but I took a terry cloth rag to buff the copper to the point that you see in the last three pictures. I have only placed one thick coat of Renaissance Wax - as time got away from me and I had to stop (life of a newborn dad). 

 

I plan on putting two or so more coats of wax on top of what is already there being careful each time to make certain my hands are clean to avoid fingerprints and such. My question is do I place two more coats of wax, or do I use a polyurethane on top of the one thick coat of wax I have installed already.

 

Thank you for your time and attention to my post, apologies that it is so late in coming. Hopefully now that summer break is upon me, I can have some time to get myself going to complete the hull and get closer to the rigging. 

[histprof1066]

Apologies for the double post, it seems that once the reply was uploaded, the photos changed location. I hope that my descriptions of construction work are enough to compensate. 

[histprof1066]

I have been able to do some more work n the ship. I am in the progress of working on the bowsprit and the cladding around it. I have installed the lifeboat davits, and the bowsprit grating. 
 

The Billings model does not include pin striping for the decking support braces (don’t know exactly what they are called). The only decoration would be a decal that goes from the figurehead to the hawes holes. I’m wondering how best to go about the pin striping. Would it be best to use a bit of tape and do the lines separately?

 

I am currently in progress of building the bowsprit as you can see, it is not completed and the photo included is a dry fit of the bowsprit. I am using a drill on lowest speed to sand down the round dowels for the pieces. I actually got the idea from the forums here. It’s my first time and it’s slow going, but I figure it’s best to go slow and check every so often to avoid issues going ahead. Let me know what you think. 

[histprof1066]

Some progress has been made, though some of it not completely accurate to the historical model. I have completed the installation of the bowsprit, billethead, and trailboards. The photo show that I have painted the bowsprit a bit differently than the model - though I have found some conflicting data that show the bowsprit to be mostly white. I like the white look, and am keeping it as such. I was tempted to paint the steps leading up the bowsprit - as the current version of the historical ship has black treads - though I did not like the look of this and decided against it. Billings does an okay job at the trailboards and the billethead pieces - I would love to see them as they ought to be (see ship building logs for the Model Shipways builds). I only needed to soak the billethead pieces for a short period of time - 20/30 minutes before they were pliable enough to blot off and attach to the bow. I still have some more bow décor to finish - the middle trim pieces, install the 15 eyebolts, and clean up of some paint around the glue application spots. However, on the whole, I would say that after this step is done, I can really shine on the deck fittings, masts, and rigging. Especially since my construction thus far has not been the best. 

 

One thing to note, I am looking at the Billing Boats assembly instructions, and I see that they wish for me to construct the cages for the stairwells. Does anybody have a good method for constructing these that does not require a torch?

[JSGerson]

I've got a long way to go before I get to the stanchions (cages) so my thoughts are conjecture . All of the methods I've seen used silver solder (which I plan on using), which isn't too difficult...relatively. The solder sets quickly, and can be removed to start over if needed. However, the only other method I can think of is epoxy. Like solder, it will require removing excess joint material, shaping the joints, and in the case of epoxy, painting the epoxy joints to match the brass work. I don't think this method is any easier; more likely be harder. Don't know if this helps, but it's all I got.

 

Jon

[Bill Morrison]

You are doing a fine job! Can you identify the period of the ship you are building?  Thanks!

 

Bill

[histprof1066]

1 hour ago, JSGerson said:

I've got a long way to go before I get to the stanchions (cages) so my thoughts are conjecture . All of the methods I've seen used silver solder (which I plan on using), which isn't too difficult...relatively. The solder sets quickly, and can be removed to start over if needed. However, the only other method I can think of is epoxy. Like solder, it will require removing excess joint material, shaping the joints, and in the case of epoxy, painting the epoxy joints to match the brass work. I don't think this method is any easier; more likely be harder. Don't know if this helps, but it's all I got.

 

Jon

1 hour ago, Bill Morrison said:

You are doing a fine job! Can you identify the period of the ship you are building?  Thanks!

 

Bill

 

Those are the choices I was thinking I would have to make. I have not worked joining metal before, so everything has been a learning experience for me. I had been thinking that using CA glue, joining the parts, sanding the excess, and then painting would be the route I would have to go. I don't have a soldering iron nor do I have the solder so I was thinking of ways to make it work with what I had. Thank you for the advice. 

 

Another thing I am wondering on is the best way to dye the rigging thread. I have been reading the forums with everybody suggesting everything from dyes to using Minwax stain. I have the beeswax to roll over the line to keep it from fraying, it is just the color I have needed to work on. My last kit actually came with the colors I needed fortunately. 

 

Bill, thank you for your comment. The time period of the ship model 1750-1800, though the ship was initially constructed in November 1794, with a launch date of October 1797 - if my research is to be trusted. 

[Bill Morrison]

Thank you.

 

Bill

[JSGerson]

I decided to take the "easy" route and make my model based on the 2015-17 restoration.  I say "easy" because of all the photographs that have been taken and accessible through the internet. Most builders who choose to create a historical version have to rely on contemporary paintings and models (e.g., 1812 Issacs Hull Model). Most often they choose the 1812 version. I need to see what I am modeling, so I'm making the contemporary version. The Model Shipways kit is based on the 1927-31 restoration. So, the obvious thing I had to do was remove the Top Gallant rail and add the waist. The 2015-17 restoration also removed the bow rail. Of course I won't be adding any tourist enhancements (gun port nets, speakers, etc.).

 

BTW, silver soldering is done with a small torch as opposed to an iron. You can see how it's done on You Tube. Usually the videos are posted by jewelry makers, but the process is the same. My Conny is the first time I ever did silver soldering.

 

Jon

[Rokket]

Just found this build, coming along very nicely. I really like the thread caulking. Great idea.

[histprof1066]

18 hours ago, JSGerson said:

I decided to take the "easy" route and make my model based on the 2015-17 restoration.  I say "easy" because of all the photographs that have been taken and accessible through the internet. Most builders who choose to create a historical version have to rely on contemporary paintings and models (e.g., 1812 Issacs Hull Model). Most often they choose the 1812 version. I need to see what I am modeling, so I'm making the contemporary version. The Model Shipways kit is based on the 1927-31 restoration. So, the obvious thing I had to do was remove the Top Gallant rail and add the waist. The 2015-17 restoration also removed the bow rail. Of course I won't be adding any tourist enhancements (gun port nets, speakers, etc.).

 

BTW, silver soldering is done with a small torch as opposed to an iron. You can see how it's done on You Tube. Usually the videos are posted by jewelry makers, but the process is the same. My Conny is the first time I ever did silver soldering.

 

Jon

I definitely have to see what I am doing as well, and I am referring to many historical and internet pictures to complete the job as accurately as I can with my developing skills. I did not know that about using a small torch, I will look into it - thanks for your help! I sometimes wonder if the Billings model has all of the pieces in the right scale or position. I mean I understand it is not a very expensive model and the detail isn't exactly what I have seen in other brands, but there are times I wonder about the length of parts and such. For example, I am including a photo of the bumpkins I installed on the hull. The parts match the diagram that Billings supplies with the instructions also. However, I cannot find a photo of the bumpkins being so long. If it looks bad, I can always trim it, am I right? 

 

 

12 hours ago, Rokket said:

Just found this build, coming along very nicely. I really like the thread caulking. Great idea.

 

Thank you for your praise. It is my second wooden ship model . I have good ideas and can implement some of them. I try to be perfect in what I do, but in practicality my skills are not where some of the other modelers are at for sure. 

 

 

[JSGerson]

If you go to the USS Constitution Museum site, you will find a lot of US Plans of the ship. I found one that may help you with the bow bumkins.

 

Jon

25175 - Deck Framing Forward of Stern and Fore Tack Bumpkin.pdf

[histprof1066]

3 minutes ago, JSGerson said:

If you go to the USS Constitution Museum site, you will find a lot of US Plans of the ship. I found one that may help you with the bow bumkins.

 

Jon

25175 - Deck Framing Forward of Stern and Fore Tack Bumpkin.pdf 385.37 kB · 0 downloads

Thank you for providing this, it helps a bunch. It seems that the Billings plans have the length too long. I can always go back and trim them - it looks as though the ones I have installed need to be trimmed by about 20%

[JSGerson]

Glad to help

[Bill Morrison]

On 6/30/2022 at 10:28 AM, JSGerson said:

If you go to the USS Constitution Museum site, you will find a lot of US Plans of the ship. I found one that may help you with the bow bumkins.

 

Jon

25175 - Deck Framing Forward of Stern and Fore Tack Bumpkin.pdf 385.37 kB · 1 download

There is also a CD available diagrams showing all periods of Constitution's refits and reconstructions.  It might be helpful.

Bill

 

[histprof1066]

On 7/1/2022 at 12:00 PM, Bill Morrison said:

There is also a CD available diagrams showing all periods of Constitution's refits and reconstructions.  It might be helpful.

Bill

 

Thank you for your help. I was thinking that would be helpful to have for rigging and other such parts of the ship. 

[histprof1066]

Been a while since I updated my progress, though I am mostly done with the main deck fittings - I still need to finish the 34 belaying pins, some eyebolts, and of course the cannons, netting and such. This is before I start on the rigging proper. 
 

I installed the stanchions cages and hatches for the main and aft sections, the fore, main, and mizzenmast pin rails, the capstan, and ship’s wheel. The wheel was painted like the stanchions because Billings used a metal piece for the wheel and wanted it painted tan. I didn’t like that look. Yes, I know it isn’t exact to the historical ship. I hope you like my work. 
 

I don’t like the fact that the cannons are not on wheels in my kit, nor is there anything to allow the cannons to be tied like they are in the historical ship. 

[JSGerson]

Out of curiosity, what method of adhesive did you use for the stanchions, epoxy or silver solder? How did you hold the pieces in place as you joined them?

 

You stated: "I don’t like the fact that the cannons are not on wheels in my kit..." Technically most (not all) of the guns on the spar deck are cannonades and have a different type of carriage to hold the short barrel gun than the traditional long barrel gun carriage. The back wheels are small and are tucked under the carriage allowing the back end of the carriage to move side to side. There are no front wheels as the carriage rests on a pivot pin so the gun can be swung left and right. Presently, there are two types of replica cannonades on the actual ship today. The one with the vertical angle adjustment screw is more accurate than the more abundant gun with wedge adjustment. The images I've provided show the rigging. A lot of modelers elect not to include a lot of the gun rigging due to scale.

 

[histprof1066]

1 hour ago, JSGerson said:

Out of curiosity, what method of adhesive did you use for the stanchions, epoxy or silver solder? How did you hold the pieces in place as you joined them?

 

You stated: "I don’t like the fact that the cannons are not on wheels in my kit..." Technically most (not all) of the guns on the spar deck are cannonades and have a different type of carriage to hold the short barrel gun than the traditional long barrel gun carriage. The back wheels are small and are tucked under the carriage allowing the back end of the carriage to move side to side. There are no front wheels as the carriage rests on a pivot pin so the gun can be swung left and right. Presently, there are two types of replica cannonades on the actual ship today. The one with the vertical angle adjustment screw is more accurate than the more abundant gun with wedge adjustment. The images I've provided show the rigging. A lot of modelers elect not to include a lot of the gun rigging due to scale.

 

 

 

 

 

Good morning, 

 

Since the stanchions were going to be painted, I used a Gorilla Glue brand superglue. The glue can be applied to a variety of materials and is supposed to dry clear, but dried an opaque colour in some areas where I applied a bit more. I used the supplied schematics to measure, marked with a sharpie, and bent with needle nosed pliers to replicate the bends I saw in photos. I did make some of the bends a bit more angular than what appear in the historical ship. However, I feel I did pretty good seeing that this is my first attempt. Anyway, I cut pieces a section at a time and glued them slowly one piece at a time. The glue allows the piece to be held on in as little as 10 seconds BUT its set enough to allow you to proceed in 30-60 seconds. The only tricky bit were the horizontal railings, and I did those after allowing a bit of time to let them dry (about 5-10 minutes) as I continued working on other deck fittings. 

 

I misunderstood the cannons on the deck, thinking they were supposed to be long range guns on different carriages. Now that I see the historical ship photos, I understand why they did what they did on the model pieces. Your first shared photo looks to be what Billings supplied in the kit, and I think I shall mimic that as much as I am able. They did not include a lot of extra parts, so I am unsure if I would even have the thread OR blocks/eyebolts to do the gun rigging. That being said, I am not saying it is impossible to do, just that I lack the skills or tools to rig the cannonade probably. I am sure with some help from the forums I could figure it out, but I figure I shall take it one issue at a time.

 

That being said, the chain plates on the side of the ship do not have actual chain plates in the kit - I am to manufacture my own with thread with an eyebolt installed in the hull of the ship. The schematics show the bolts in the white belt whereas the BB model show photos of the bolts in the black area just below the bottom of the white belt. What do you suggest I do, follow the schematic that BB included? 

 

Thank you for your assistance - I am still learning. 

 

P.S.: Which colour of red should I be using for the gun carriages? I see an almost orange in the photos, whereas in others it looks almost like a fire engine red. The kit shows closer to the latter. 

Edited July 12, 2022 by histprof1066

[JSGerson]

Welcome to the world of model ship building. It's invariable that kit parts are not accurate, not provided, poorly made, etc. As a result, you end up making your own details and gaining skills along the way. Things like blocks, miniature rope, eyebolts, rings, and other rigging items I sometimes purchase from third party suppliers, or if that fails, attempt to make them myself. Knowing what something is suppose to look like is a tremendous help so I have a vast library of images I've accumulated of the years, of nautical details, as well as books, and "how-to" articles I've gleamed from other build logs from which I can follow. There is a lot of stuff on YouTube too.

 

If I were to make the chain plates, I might use thin copper or brass plate, cut into strips. At those thicknesses, a pair of sturdy scissors or a stout knife and rule could do the job. Then punch the necessary holes with an awl, nail, or heavy needle; smooth out the hole edges, and bend to shape. Finally, use some blackening agent on the metal. Paint is too thick and doesn't look right.

 

As for the color of the carriages, they are red not orange. I don't know the official color name but I would call it "redwood furniture" red. The bright sun affects the color in the images.

 

BTW, I'm still learning too.