Glory of the Seas 1869 by Vladimir_Wairoa - FINISHED - 1:72 - medium clipper

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

19 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Vlad...my research, along with the physical limitations I observed.......resulted in me terminating the first 3 backstays at the topmast cross trees.  It was not possible to terminate them at the mainmast cap.  The tops for each mast rudely interrupted that idea.  In short, the stays would have pressed up against the aft edge of the tops and would have been abrading against it, and would have been extremely misaligned.  An entirely unacceptable situation.

Unlike your version....my version represents Glory after her major backstay conversion and would not be a good representation of your goal. However, the first 3 backstays would not truly be effected by the modification and in reality, still would not interrupt the path of the first 3 stays as I mentioned.

Review my completed images and you will see where all the backstays terminated on my Glory.  Again....my version has 2 new backstays on each side of the fore/main masts, and their insertions would effect the others.  Making your true locations more problematic.  Typically the first 2 stays would insert at the topmast crosstrees. The second pair would terminate at the  foremast flying jib stay insertion(at the point were the topgallant shrouds insert.  The last 2 stays would insert at the outermost foremast jib stay at the Royal mast top.    Review Mikes drawings in his books.

 

Rob

I think I figured IT out Rob.

AS far AS capstays on hemp rigged ships AS Glory was put  on initially - i was a bit surprised as 1869 with All modern  changes modern pumps etc  She took hemp , i dont think capstays was usual practise on hemp rigged ships and i have three authorities reason fór this statement. Underhills tabs exclude capstays on hemp rigged ships and another reference Crothers in his book with Full rig asortment data typical clipper of éra doesnt show capstays on usuall rig AS Well , Michael doesnt show it on his rigging profile too. Im deliberately ommiting this peculiar feature unless someone brings total proof evidence hence backstays only. Thanks fór your input Rob. 

Edited January 14, 2023 by Vladimir_Wairoa
Add

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Glory IS ready to take yards. 

 

I will put some photos without yards AS I Keep forgetting to photograph stages. 

Standing rigging was really  tíme consuming task

 Its not without flawa but i hope I was ale to learn again something out of it. Probably most difficult was keeping pairs same length. I must say i would be in Bad mood if yards havent been Made Prior to this. 

I think i will never do IT other way. It cheers mind thinking yards are completed . Yay. 

 

 

I should make some headlinera so to sum Up. 

 

Ať this point Bowsprit IS rigged. 

 

Lower masť and topmasts are rigged completely, ratlines missing in topmasts. 

 

From topmast Up i will rig yards separately and only than IT will All to to the ship. 

So we have 

1. Shrouds lower and topmast

2. Forestay and backstays. 

 

I plan attaching faileafs deadyes on lower shrouds later indeed. 

 

I tried various Angles..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At this point topmast trees are getting pacled and really heavy loaded. What surprised me , backstays are really tightly strung, and All IS balanced because of Clever way if counteracting ropes ...IT really weights on those little sticks. 

 

All there masts now : 

 

..thank you .v. 

Edited January 16, 2023 by Vladimir_Wairoa
Add

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Rigging yards 

 

You Can see lower yard attached ready to be fastened with chain. 

 

work Continues with rigging lower & lower topmast yards. I Guess I already dream about it. IT IS exactly oné year since i have made yards. Its a milestone fór me seeing them hung and moving every direction possible. They were quite a big fellowes.

Im finishing also topmast ratlines. 

 

AS my rig will be moderately light - just braces and haliards...i Can have them already hung. 

Next step will be attaching upper topmast with All theirs peculiar glory like lifts  ať the foot of fid and haliards....I hope glory comes Alive with rigging. 

Thank you fór watching etc...

V. 

 

 

View on lower yard crane  from top. at collar IT IS fastened by pin so IT Can move or turn diagonally from left to right, and IT Can Also turn vertically. 

 

 

 

 

...

Topmast shrouds rigged. 

 

Lower topmast on crane  Also ale to move vertically turning on its pin and horizontally around secure pin at cap side. 

 

 

 

 

 

few pics showing solidity and massivness of lower yards. 

 

 

 

 

My biggest problém IS photographing her with mobile phone and get her into frame :)) 

Rig in morning sun :))) 

 

 

Edited January 18, 2023 by Vladimir_Wairoa
Add

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Topgallant masts and higher rigging preparations ongoing. 

 

from topgallant uplift, order of rigging IS in reverse order according to Underhill. So shrouds to last over the mast top etcetera. There IS grommet to ho first and stays etc...

Yards Lifts attaches to grommets...

 

I painted yards collars. 

Next step. Forestays backstays and shrouds. Its All getting crowded and still no running rigging ...

Thanks for stopping by, comments, observations, likes etc...

 

 

 

 

[BANYAN]

Looking good mate.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Work in progress.

 

Thanks for likes folks.

Its real mess at this point, and I fugured out few things.  I definitely ditched hanging yard above topgalant first method, seems most ineffective to me, as tying ropes ať yards IS most inconvenient and complicated thing fór me, having hand above shoulders etc....

I try avoiding this as much as possible. 

Far easier IS tying on vise, - and i improved my method . I fasten surgical clamps with rope and put tiny amount of glue on rope - that holds seizing rope and only few Turns. I try not putting glue from outside but sometimes i have to. 

I spent ciuple of days making footropes ( still missing on Bowsprit ouch) , 

But IT looks i found pace. I fasten false mast Stick on Vice, and voila. Just removing and rolling Up to real masť from topgallant Up. Very tight and convenient. 

There IS 6 seized eyes - grommet, forestay 2 backstays and 2 eyes of shatered shroud pair. Quicker now. I try not to Rush. 

its slow process AS only fór main topgallant forestay it requiers to form seized eyes, means seizing, make bulleye, make wired eye to secure IT on top and another eye on rope. IT needs to be right. I prefer to make IT All outside of Boat, try first and ať the end only glue Up. 

i must say that i like glory far better with rig. It is such imoortant element of clipper,..or aby Boat...im Happy to say that standing rigging of foremast is DONE ( except Small yards and fairlead blocks ....but . I Can see k ght ať the end of tunnel meaning i Wish complete standing rigging by end of  this week. 

partly running rig i want to do will follow but only - haliards and braces. No buntles etc AS no yards. Its already packed as hell :)) 

But All tidy when secured. Ať this point i have yards Hať are secured Twisted AS múch AS possible the way they dont interract with my hands....

I decided to púť few overal pics although im sorry i cant get better photos ofvl her. I dont have proper camera and i hate and almost never use wide angle photos. Too distorted view. Thank you again. 

V. 

 

Main topgallant mast forestay...

 

Already in place

 

Foremasts fóre & backstays Up. 

Bowsprit Has All standing rig now . Outer jibstay and royal stay came last thru rained two hooks of martingale Down thru Bull into deck.( will add footropes soon) 

 

She is big i say didnt i already say ? My poor Photo paper IS useless , i dont know how i want to pohoto her overall but i will have to get bigger background wallpaper...

 

Now this IS what IS looks like at poor  topmasts crostree...- still holding :)) 

YOu Can see upper topyard braces "shackled" into fid of topgallant mast. 

Topgallant and royal backstays touch spreader on crostree and head Down to Channel. 

 

On floor Higher ....

We are ať topgallant top now where All ropes are secured by their own eyes. Order IS opposite from now Up than was in lower or topmast, slo stays ho before shrouds. 

 

 

Few overall pics...i still have to remove rope fuzziness ( distracting)  but usually when All ropes attached. 

 

Edited January 23, 2023 by Vladimir_Wairoa
Add

[Boccherini]

You continue at a furious pace. I spend ages staring and wondering what to do next, then spot something that should have been done several months ago.

Are the stays supposed to just touch the spreaders? Or do the spreaders actually spread the stays a little? I've "stared and wondered" how to get the spreaders just right without actually installing the stays then adjusting the spreaders to fit.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

1 hour ago, Boccherini said:

You continue at a furious pace. I spend ages staring and wondering what to do next, then spot something that should have been done several months ago.

Are the stays supposed to just touch the spreaders? Or do the spreaders actually spread the stays a little? I've "stared and wondered" how to get the spreaders just right without actually installing the stays then adjusting the spreaders to fit.

 

Regards,

Grant.

You are spot on here Grant. 

I will explain spreaders in more detail, 

to be honest  I work very slowly comparing to my usual habit, realising rigging is discipline on its own, more difficult than hull making in my view. this is my first experiencd whatsoever of rigging spreaders, first thinkijg of making them in advance which proved literally wrong. Backstays dont touch them evenly or nit at all respectively, spreaders ahould be spread wider. I refrained photographing it at all so far tor two reasons and focusing for other things so far....

 

1. I deliberately omitted making hooks on spreaders for two reasons. first I didnt find  way how to do it without soldering, being it very yhin and fragile  thinking of " cheating with just tying roped to the spreader bar if ok. 

2. since spreaders are not ok positioned , I will have to remove bars from ine hole drill hole further  and spread them wider to move and  touch stays and figure out how to fix it on bar. or figure out a way how to make hooks as now i know where hooks would be. 

 

thank you for attentive observation and point made. 

I will have to think carefully how to proceed with that element. will post another bits of work meanwhile.

 

much apreciated 

V. 

..

 

 

 

 

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Howes rig & various standing rigging excerpts.

 

 

Before I return to spreaders complicacy, Id like to stop here with howes rig, which became accepted standard for late tall ships. Im sure many understand well its principle, but i want to have it here even fof myself. I found Crothers explanation best one fore with hisastery of communicating technical twrms and using words for uneducated. There is hovewer oneystery that is unsolved yet for me and thst is lift for furthermentioned lower topsail yard.. I will have to check on  Robs for answer. If you have one please dont hesitate to help in here.

 

The first howes rig was fitted in clipper Climax 1853. 

Essentially, Capt. Howes closed gap between the lower and upper topsails. however, this was accompanied by several other innovations whicj were so practical and successful that the new rig, nearing howes name immediately becd a rig of choice and, in its essential form remained standard for remainder of the age of sail. 

probably more important than closing the gap was the manner in which the lower topsail was slung. basic details are very interesting. 

Howes first diversion from Forbes ideas was to dispose of the lenghtened lower masts and greatly extended mastheads returning both ti the proportions that prevailed in conventional rigs. any inclination to step the topmasts abaft the lower masts was never considered. 

the second, and most universally accepted change was incorporated into the installation of his lower topsail yard. the yard would be a fixed, permanent installation with its iron truss fashioned into forward portion of the lower cap. the overturning moment generated by weight of yard hanging from cap was countered by an iron crane which extended downward to a band fixed around the heel of topmast. this yard was stationary and its sail was made without a reef ! thus it could be either set or furled as the situation warranted. 

the upper topsail yards were slung in the usual manner and could be lowered upon the cap. these sails contained one reef and were cut straight on the foot. the foot was then detailed to be laced to a jackstay on the lower topsail yarf. whem both sails were set and lacing completed the result was in effect the setting of single topsail. the terrible demon - that of escape of breezes between the two sails - had been exorcised

additional advances were gained in running rigging....sparing workmen loads etc...

...

 

there are few methods of howes rig application  however. 

I suppose Later era or american style - whatever -  applies even more advanced realisation joining and sharing iron crane with wooden support   - shorter crane raised from or supported by wooden timber resting on side of topmast from heel up..rather than usin single crane from bottom of heel of the topmast that would have to be thicker  as weight of yard pressured it enormously..this solution seemingly fixes this issue. iron bar can be shorter and it is defacto stronger by law of physics...

 

here are few photos of execution and some  from finalizing ratlines. i must  admit that rigging is ardous task, lines must be straight and firmly  fastened so they wont wobble when receiving ratlines. ends have to be cut as luch as possible but without cutting tie...Im almost finished standing rigging and it consumed enormous hours - literary  hundreds of hours nights, good and bad moods.  there is  no way to speed it up...if one wants seizing etc...That is to battle another issues. as rigging progresses towards topgallant mast and higher or mizzen mast frok topmast up, seizing ropes become look unnaturally thick. even at 1:72 clipper. 

its basically  down to 1:96 lower yard area, kudos to Rob. oje coud appreciate liniature modelera as soon as getting into their terriroties. 

i found 0.25 mm threat vety very thick for seizing at that area. from there up ij yards  & baclstays of thickness of 0.45 and 0.35 mm i decided to go with gluing. and im glad i did fof overall look. 

if someone could dispove me there is a way to seizing making it look not overthick id be firag to adopt it

..

im surprised how much even harder work probably will take running riggijg. 

however. there is still plenty to do. i will keep much relieved pace now working with making spanker booms....possibly blocks, learning about fasyening purchases and so on..making special iron blocks for haliards...

 

thank you for helping with comments, ideas and see you with recovering spreaders first....

 

V. 

 

...

 

 

 

 

 

to the last overal pics. i guess im spowly finding a way photographing glory even with ordinary  mobile phone. 

overal rigging pics were one fact i was looking forward to see and im shocked how much of overal  look of ship rigging takes for themselves and to complete ship.

naturally as our brain is tricked and always associate vessels with belly under water _ or without belly - linvisibpe and their tall splendor all fitted .. deck fitting is now  so so small  under spars 

first sorry Rich, to spoil your interest, only moonlight  is still missing 

but i promise photo with her once spreders are fixed or runnig rigging is up. i still have issue to get her in camera frame. or rather i have stipl small background wallpaper . 

there is still long long way ahead. 

i believe decision to go with dark seizing on standing rigging turned for the better. it desnt grab attention at all. will be my way.

 

apology for this long brainstorming. what else to add. i dont know at this point. few issues to correct regarding spreaders - making new literally with hooks somehow...and gaf booms to make before turning mind to running rigging.

im a bit exhausted but happy now. if i look back i consider this stage as  big milestone, if i think of how long took making masts,  yards, fitting and rigging preparation and applying , studying book etc...it was mammoth task for me. 

im also quite pleased with overall colors i chose for masting and rigging. natural with black and white on tops. it shines moderately not shouting  and complement deck & white cabins with black hull nicely. 

thank you very much for looking or any comment etc...

till some valuable news i wish everyone  fine working time with theirs. 

 

V. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 29, 2023 by Vladimir_Wairoa
add

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Thank you @Paul Le Wol

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Vladimir, if this were my Glory, I would sit there half the day every day just looking at her. Such a beautiful ship.

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

3 hours ago, Paul Le Wol said:

Hi Vladimir, if this were my Glory, I would sit there half the day every day just looking at her. Such a beautiful ship.

:)) speaking of, Paul, I recently find myself doing it quite often with her height. just dont tell anyone D . she is pretty isnt she. yep sorry overdecorated cutty sark, :DD  I value american clippers higher.  glorys elegance unsurpassed from stem to stern. . really masterpiece of McKay, marvel of end of wooden golden sail era. i also recomment checking absolutely fully rigged fantastic miniature model of Rob Wiedderrich, with glorious figuread despite we parted ways with different stern curvature depiction. 

after  i finished my amateurish attpt of cutty sark, i knew nothing of american clipper...untill i saw them.  she has warship entry with tender lines of lady. He gambled every penny on her literally. amd  story behind her is fascinating. 

i only imagine a vision she must have been entering harbour. people would rush to see her between all tiny boats around. 

yet  i dont have custom to keep models as i let all ships i built already go. i dont have posessive habit.i like beauty and peace of making it and when its done she moves elsewhere no matter where if inferest. i miss 3D reality  as photos are only poor glimps of what  real 3D eyes see. in some way, 2D is perfect for building process and communication but i think it spoils too much in bad sense. in every side of picture there is missing what is essential in boats. third axis, depth of vision. if could be possibld i would likd to watch every boat alive, ...for that museums are worth visiting. and i suppose for that is this hobby alivd amd will never cease. plan is 2D poor drawing. photo is 2D less poor depict of work. real boat is somethinv different to see ..well she will be probably first i will consider keeping for myaelf. with wooden stand and glass cover. personally she is really not thwt big in living room . as srandard tepevision. she will orbably have most precious place in room. sorry fireplace. :))) .sorry for my thinking loud mood. probably uninteresting anyway :)sure thanks for comment. 

..

 

 

Edited January 29, 2023 by Vladimir_Wairoa
add

[Paul Le Wol]

I’m the same way Vladimir, I like to find a home for things that I’ve made. But it’s nice to have one model around that you can look at every day. I hope you keep your Glory. ( at least until you build something that will take its place.)

[rwiederrich]

Fantastic job Vlad.  
 

You’ve discovered why I prefer the 1/96 scale.

The size of model is still commanding, but allows you freedom to detail without that detail becoming (at times) out of scale. Not to mention, the smaller scale permits your details to be easier to disguise if you use unorthodox building materials.  (That I’m fond of doing). 
 

So are you finished with the standing rigging and ready to move on to the sail and yard control rigging? 
 

I’m always following with great interest and pleasure.  
 

Rob
 

 

Edited January 30, 2023 by rwiederrich

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

3 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Fantastic job Vlad.  
 

You’ve discovered why I prefer the 1/96 scale.

The size of model is still commanding, but allows you freedom to detail without that detail becoming (at times) out of scale. Not to mention, the smaller scale permits your details to be easier to disguise if you use unorthodox building materials.  (That I’m fond of doing). 
 

So are you finished with the standing rigging and ready to move on to the sail and yard control rigging? 
 

I’m always following with great interest and pleasure.  
 

Rob
 

 

Thanks for watching Rob. yeah youre right. 

Exactly,  more less standing finished  I need to step away to create distance to return with small right  corrections like spreaders, making gaff...

will pause for quite a while...

with reading yards commanding  underhill for which im always thankful to you. i would bd in blck hole without it :)) 

i m about  take time to  think to what extension will i try running rig. but most likely only braces and haliards. will see what im up to for  such crowded task. need better tweezer, I feel sometime like a surgeon sewing cuts after rattlines :)) 

 

Meanwhile I could be preparing blocks...where bigger scale will come handy again. 

by the way do you have a next project for yourself already  in mind ? clipper i know

 

V. 

 

[rwiederrich]

4 hours ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Thanks for watching Rob. yeah youre right. 

Exactly,  more less standing finished  I need to step away to create distance to return with small right  corrections like spreaders, making gaff...

will pause for quite a while...

with reading yards commanding  underhill for which im always thankful to you. i would bd in blck hole without it :)) 

i m about  take time to  think to what extension will i try running rig. but most likely only braces and haliards. will see what im up to for  such crowded task. need better tweezer, I feel sometime like a surgeon sewing cuts after rattlines :)) 

 

Meanwhile I could be preparing blocks...where bigger scale will come handy again. 

by the way do you have a next project for yourself already  in mind ? clipper i know

 

V. 

 

My library of books has been my own life saver as well.  Glad the suggestion is making the task so much easier.

I agree...one thing with larger scales is you can work around issues a bit easier.  Through the function has to remain the same.

 

To be honest....I haven't given my next build much thought.  I have many hobbies...each requiring, as much of my time to accomplish the desired results.  I build refractor telescopes in my shop and summer approaches...meaning I will want to take my big ones out so the grandkids can enjoy them.  I also want to reinfuse my HO train passions and build my grandkids a small layout.

And to top it all off....I'm retrofitting my library with production lighting, video and audio....so my sweet wife can engage her passion of live podcasting.  I've spent thousands of dollars on cameras, video and audio control equipment.

 

I'm simply trying to find Glory a new home, or a quality case so I can protect her for the long term.

 

Rob

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

7 minutes ago, rwiederrich said:

My library of books has been my own life saver as well.  Glad the suggestion is making the task so much easier.

I agree...one thing with larger scales is you can work around issues a bit easier.  Through the function has to remain the same.

 

To be honest....I haven't given my next build much thought.  I have many hobbies...each requiring, as much of my time to accomplish the desired results.  I build refractor telescopes in my shop and summer approaches...meaning I will want to take my big ones out so the grandkids can enjoy them.  I also want to reinfuse my HO train passions and build my grandkids a small layout.

And to top it all off....I'm retrofitting my library with production lighting, video and audio....so my sweet wife can engage her passion of live podcasting.  I've spent thousands of dollars on cameras, video and audio control equipment.

 

I'm simply trying to find Glory a new home, or a quality case so I can protect her for the long term.

 

Rob

i see that we jave quite a lot in common. 

v. 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   Vlad,  Your pictures of the lower topsail yard with Howe's rig are the clearest yet on how that can be done.  The pair of eyes on top of the yard through which the bar of the gantry passes allows for some dimensional chance of the triangle formed by the gantry and crane below as the yard swings to either side.  The weight of the yard is shared by the gantry and the crane together.  The crane has a pivot beneath the yard, and the foot of the crane is an eye resting on (and passing through) a fixed eye at the mast - so the crane can swivel right or left, with the yard moving slightly forward or back along the bar of the gantry as the geometry dictates (due to the pivot point of the crane being closer to the mast than the pivot of the gantry above at the level of the yard).

 

  Done this way, the forward thrust generated by the upper and lower top sails when both are set (the lower edge of the upper top sail being laced to the jackstay of the lower topsail yard as you describe) is split between the upper topsail yard (conventionally rigged with a bracket that can slide up and down the top mast) and the crane that connects the yard to the mast (the gantry as shown does not have an end stop, so cannot transmit thrust to the mast).  Of course, there are braces for both yards that can also transmit thrust to the vessel when belayed and the lines are tight.

 

  Now if the beam of wood placed on of the bottom front portion of the topmast (to which the fixed eye for the crane's bottom eye is mounted) was not tapered, but was of a thickness to match the location of the gantry pivot on the cap where the yard is mounted, then the triangle formed would have no dimensional shift as it turns ... imagine a 'solid' triangle of metal hinged to the mast (with a suitable piece of added wood to the base of the topmast that is even with the cap above) that can swing freely to either side.  It does not change its shape.   I suppose that an iron bracket or ring with a protrusion could attach to the mast at any position (per the length of the crane), so that the fixed eye will be directly under the pivot of the gantry above it - thus no need for the added wood.  If the crane is a longer one, it could go all the way down to the forward edge of the platform platform to an eye that would be in-line with the gantry pivot above.

 

  Then there would be a bolt or suitable end stop at the end of the gantry arm so that forward thrust can be transmitted.  As the yard bears against the stop, force would go through the gantry arm to the mast cap.  Then only one eye would be needed on top of the yard as there is no forward and back motion.  This would also be advantageous if only the lower topsail were set (e.g. when the upper topsail yard was quickly lowered as a squall approached).

 

  I'm still in the learning phase, and seeing all your wonderful pictures is highly instructive - as are all the fine build available on the MSW forum!

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

4 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

   Vlad,  Your pictures of the lower topsail yard with Howe's rig are the clearest yet on how that can be done.  The pair of eyes on top of the yard through which the bar of the gantry passes allows for some dimensional chance of the triangle formed by the gantry and crane below as the yard swings to either side.  The weight of the yard is shared by the gantry and the crane together.  The crane has a pivot beneath the yard, and the foot of the crane is an eye resting on (and passing through) a fixed eye at the mast - so the crane can swivel right or left, with the yard moving slightly forward or back along the bar of the gantry as the geometry dictates (due to the pivot point of the crane being closer to the mast than the pivot of the gantry above at the level of the yard).

 

  Done this way, the forward thrust generated by the upper and lower top sails when both are set (the lower edge of the upper top sail being laced to the jackstay of the lower topsail yard as you describe) is split between the upper topsail yard (conventionally rigged with a bracket that can slide up and down the top mast) and the crane that connects the yard to the mast (the gantry as shown does not have an end stop, so cannot transmit thrust to the mast).  Of course, there are braces for both yards that can also transmit thrust to the vessel when belayed and the lines are tight.

 

  Now if the beam of wood placed on of the bottom front portion of the topmast (to which the fixed eye for the crane's bottom eye is mounted) was not tapered, but was of a thickness to match the location of the gantry pivot on the cap where the yard is mounted, then the triangle formed would have no dimensional shift as it turns ... imagine a 'solid' triangle of metal hinged to the mast (with a suitable piece of added wood to the base of the topmast that is even with the cap above) that can swing freely to either side.  It does not change its shape.   I suppose that an iron bracket or ring with a protrusion could attach to the mast at any position (per the length of the crane), so that the fixed eye will be directly under the pivot of the gantry above it - thus no need for the added wood.  If the crane is a longer one, it could go all the way down to the forward edge of the platform platform to an eye that would be in-line with the gantry pivot above.

 

  Then there would be a bolt or suitable end stop at the end of the gantry arm so that forward thrust can be transmitted.  As the yard bears against the stop, force would go through the gantry arm to the mast cap.  Then only one eye would be needed on top of the yard as there is no forward and back motion.  This would also be advantageous if only the lower topsail were set (e.g. when the upper topsail yard was quickly lowered as a squall approached).

 

  I'm still in the learning phase, and seeing all your wonderful pictures is highly instructive - as are all the fine build available on the MSW forum!

@Snug Harbor Johnny

Thank you. yes, there is definitely turning ability and friangle example of rotating around one of shorter side axis is great example i think. Im glad my photos have at least some use. its big learning process for me definitely. although i guess this yard is only javing  lift. im surprised i didnt find anything about yard lift in underhill, but will keep trying. it maies sense as lift would ne intrusive i dunno really. V. 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

 

 

after frantic mode I set and transformed for to slow relax  mode and for time being  I set apart boat and  issues i have to restore and tried to make first double biggest block prototype which is shy of 5 mm. so still very smal one. 

I obseved old inner strapped blocks and what other folks do and biggest commercial  I fancy from syren model that is doable to assemble 

and functional is approx 6 mm. 

so I try to modify and round walnut squarish block for older boats I got some time back...

 

I made thin strop so holes are intact for receiving ropes and not destroyed. what do you think ?  now will try to go down the size to 4 mm 3 mm and smalles one is 2 mm block i need. triple  single and double ones. 

tbank you for watching,V. 

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2023 by Vladimir_Wairoa
add

[druxey]

You might have better success in the smallest sizes to use a much more fine-grained wood.

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

55 minutes ago, druxey said:

You might have better success in the smallest sizes to use a much more fine-grained wood.

Thanks Druxey. I understand but i personally dont complain as far as walnut goes about grain. if properly sanded its ok. i dont have any power tools except of dremel to make pear or boxwood blocks

so I cant "make" blocjs only modify.

i know that speaking of 2 mm ones that will be real cjallenge. lets see, how it turns out.

 

[rwiederrich]

Vlad....you have a real job ahead of you.  You will need many hundreds of blocks. but in your scale....that will be fun....if I can say that.

 

I created blocks for each yard and purpose at the time I needed them.  It broke up the monotony of making so many blocks at the same time.   That was just me.

In your scale, each block is nearly a small model in of itself.

There are some nice videos , where folks mass produce blocks from dowels chucked up in a drill motor...or on their small lathe.

 

Good luck.

 

I'll be watching.

 

Rob 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

3 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Vlad....you have a real job ahead of you.  You will need many hundreds of blocks. but in your scale....that will be fun....if I can say that.

 

I created blocks for each yard and purpose at the time I needed them.  It broke up the monotony of making so many blocks at the same time.   That was just me.

In your scale, each block is nearly a small model in of itself.

There are some nice videos , where folks mass produce blocks from dowels chucked up in a drill motor...or on their small lathe.

 

Good luck.

 

I'll be watching.

 

Rob 

Rob, finger crossed. lets hope it will be fun  

i dont have lathe at this pioint. I prefer easiest possible solution if i could choose   

[BANYAN]

You are making excellent progress Vlad, but I think Rob's advice as to making blocks as you need them may be a good idea if you plan to do them all by hand tool - that is a tough task you have set yourself.  I look forward to seeing your updates.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

7 hours ago, BANYAN said:

You are making excellent progress Vlad, but I think Rob's advice as to making blocks as you need them may be a good idea if you plan to do them all by hand tool - that is a tough task you have set yourself.  I look forward to seeing your updates.

 

cheers

 

Pat

I think thats a briliant advice Pat, makes sense, i will make them as i go so i could see how much more i need to make etc. thanks much V. 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

5, 4, 3 , 2,5mm. 

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

where im to start...

 

funnily enough I noalready run into three possibilities of rigging lower yard lift....running lift. 

 

seems to me that it was solely captain choice of what is to bd done, mo matter what underhill says. respectively Underhill mentioms only one and maybe possibly older way? 

I believe there us not one or right or wrong answer obswrving that there is more methods. probably one key is to find what was used most , or being preffered. or is there a way Mckay might suggested also rigging in kind after completing vessel? I dont know ag all would assume we know from documents that Mckays preferred  rigging company took that job as whole. speaking of original rig.

but honesly im not going put much thought into it. 

 

tying 4 or 5 " in the eye of yard brace brunging it into 12 or up to 15" block at the top of cap and down to purchase at mast fife rail. 

Im going for this way but intersting others deserve to be mentioned. or prefered? hmm . 

 

surely much thicker singe rope goiung from yard bracd arm eye into purchase blocks that are on upper part of mechanism....and that seems to me failry stronger way of securing as per my amateurish observation :)) 

anyway. just rough sketches for  curiosity though...

V. 

 

 

 

Edited February 3, 2023 by Vladimir_Wairoa
add

[rwiederrich]

We’ll one and two in your drawing will be simpler, because your 3rd drawing requires that you have a block mounted on the deck and a line to belay at the rail.  This will quickly get overwhelming at the mast foot.  You will run out of space when you figure you need to do this for a couple of yards……..on both sides.  Not forgetting you will need room for sheet blocks at the foot as well.  It all gets tricky and tight………so think it out well. 
 

Rob

Edited February 3, 2023 by rwiederrich

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

3 minutes ago, rwiederrich said:

We’ll one and two in your drawing will be simpler, because drawing A requires that you have a block mounted on the deck and a line to belay at the rail.  This will quickly get overwhelming at the mast foot.  You will run out of space when you figure you need to do this for 4 to 5 yards……..on both sides.  
 

Rob

good point Rob. thank you for bringing to consideration. 

regarding mast stop place or nelaying pins rail place. It will be rather very small project Rob. I will rig only braces and haliards thats it. 

i wont even attach empty blocks even there are evety eyes for them on tops etc. 

im hard thinking how nice would be to rig at least sheets with all chains tbru yards but...it wont be rigging yards anymore but also part of sails. and there shouod be blocks then etc...

lets wait and see. well at least. if i change mind it is always time to add more. 

thank for fine comment indeed. 

V.