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Posted

Bitao

In making the jig, in order to drill the holes that hold the three pins, did you use a rotary table on a drill press or a mill?  Getting them perfectly placed would be a nightmare otherwise.   I will definitely give your method a try in the future,  thank you very much for sharing your secret!!

Allan

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Posted
1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Bitao

In making the jig, in order to drill the holes that hold the three pins, did you use a rotary table on a drill press or a mill?  

Allan

Yes, Allan. The brass jig is the key to the whole pulley production, and three ejectors must be accurately positioned. If the deviation is too large (I usually do not exceed 0.03 mm) , it will affect later turning, especially after turning, you will find that the next operation can not be performed due to the difference between the centers. This is difficult for the average player. When I make it, I clamp the copper rod (pre-lathe outer circle) directly into the milling machine bench clamp, first make sure it is vertical. I didn't use the dial. These three holes are not evenly distributed, but within the same radius, you just need to precisely position the center of the circle, and then you can open the pre-determined radius data, because I use the edge finder and the raster ruler to pre-position, so, the precision after processing can meet the requirements. In addition, the precision deviation of the inserted thimble can not exceed 0.05 mm, and the protruding part can not exceed two-thirds of the thickness of the pulley, otherwise it will be difficult to clamp the block in the future or to remove it after forced installation.

Posted
8 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Love those deadeyes and offer congratulations on your resolving a better way of making them.  I think Greg (dvm) says it all in his post.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Thank you for your kind words. We all try to do the same thing with different personal understandings in order to do it better. Greg's rich knowledge and experience is no doubt an example for us to follow.

Posted
10 hours ago, allanyed said:

Bitao

In making the jig, in order to drill the holes that hold the three pins, did you use a rotary table on a drill press or a mill?  Getting them perfectly placed would be a nightmare otherwise.   I will definitely give your method a try in the future,  thank you very much for sharing your secret!!

Allan

I'm not quite sure how Bitao did it but I used the rotary table in my mill. I don't have DRO and just basically tinkered with the setup until it was right but it wasn't a big deal. I assume Bitao uses a round file to form the groove in the middle and either a form tool or file to shape the exposed side of the deadeye. The deadeye is pulled of, reversed and inserted onto the holes so the opposite side can be shaped.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

Posted

The key to this, as it is in any manufacturing process, is to do the hard part first. Then you can bring the res t of the object into shape but correctly indexed to the critical piece. Nice process.

John

 

Member: Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

Current Builds: Tugboat Dorothy  Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #1 (complete)

                            Iron Clad Monitor (complete) 

                            Sardine Carrier which I will Name Mary Ann (complete)

                            Pilot Boat John H. Estill Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #12 (my avatar)

                    Harbor tug Susan Moran

                    Coast Guard 100' patrol boat

Posted

These buttons actually do more to look as pretty as possible and have enough tensile strength; I tried four different types and amounts of copper wire (each 0.6 mm in diameter) , made by hand bending and arc welding (not tin welding) . After selection, the actual qualified only about half. Although it's hard to tell the difference when you finally install it.

 

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Posted

A great testimony to your skills Bitao; a truly high-quality model.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted (edited)
On 2022/9/21 at PM7点29分, French Mr Bean said:

 An idea of the next model?

Thank you for your constant attention. The next target has not been set. As a hobby, my models are not limited to building sailboats. Take the time to make another model my like.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Bitao
  • 7 months later...

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