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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Glen, that's a really impressive model, particularly as a first build!

 

A couple of points for future models - the standing rigging (shrouds, stays, ratlines) were tarred to protect them from the weather (actually the ratlines probably weren't but would have absorbed tar from the other ropes) and would have been black - or actually dark brown. The running rigging wasn't tarred, as it had to pass through blocks etc, so would be the natural colour of the rope (though it tended to fade and was closer to off-white than tan).

 

You might like to investigate the use of silkspan for sails - it's much closer to scale thickness and fine-ness of weave (in fact it's not woven at all). See 

  and 

And for sail/steam ships, you might like to look at Banyan's brilliant scratch-build of HMCSS Victoria - see 

 

 

Congratulations on completing a very impressive build!

 

Steven

Posted

@Louie da fly Hey Steven - Thanks for the comments and the suggestions.  I have not heard of silkspan before.  I will definitely investigate that for future builds.  Appreciate the  education on the rigging as well.  As for that build of the Victoria, OMG, thanks for sending the link.  That is almost beyond my comprehension!

 

I also took a bit of time and looked thru your log of the Henry Grace rebuild.  What a truly fascinating project (and story).  And some very interesting things you've done like using a 3D printer for custom deadeyes.   Your sails are simply amazing.  I will be checking back in on that one.

Posted (edited)

 Glen, she came out really sweet. You've definitely given me the bug to attempt the Alabama, thank you. 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/19/2021 at 11:07 PM, Glen McGuire said:

Next step was applying the copper plates to the hull below the upper second planking.  The kit came with a long roll of 1/8" wide copper tape.  I looked at a lot of pictures of other models with copper plating to get an idea of what to do here.  I didn't really like a lot of what I saw so I came up with something that was probably not historically accurate but I liked the look.  I cut the strips of tape into pieces that were 15mm long.  Then I dimpled 2 rivets into each end.  I wanted the copper to stand out vs seeing a million rivets all over the place.

20200724_172816.jpg

 

 

For a good rivet effect you can use what's called a pounce wheel, which is used in the leather industry to put dimple designs into the leather. It looks like a cowboy spur. Micro-Mark sells them at difference scales to give the effect of rivets.

 

Link: https://www.micromark.com/3-piece-Pounce-Wheel-Set

 

The pain is keeping the line straight and not bending your copper. Other model sites sell the individual copper plates if you can find the right scale. What you did works for you, more power to you.

 

Posted

@Beakerboy123 Thanks for the tip!  In my ongoing process of learning, I ran across that tool well after I was done with the Alabama.  But I have now added a couple to my toolbox for future builds.  I have not tried it yet so I also appreciate the warning about keeping the line straight and not bending the copper. 

Posted

Hello Glen, I was given this kit as a gift from a friend of mine who thought he was doing a good deed unfortunately he bought it on eBay and it was an opened box.  I've built two small plank on frames but this one is a real challenge. I was able to get all the frames in place without any problems and found that the prop and prop support were missing but that would not stop me from proceeding with the shaping of the frames. Now I can proceed with planking I see you started from the water line up and down and it looks like you planked to almost the top of the frames is that correct? My question is does the deck get glued to the top of the frames its thin material are there any support pieces that go  across the frames and if so what is the Bulwarks made of I dont see any material in the kit for it in fact I'm not even sure I have enough for the planking what I have is only a bundle of 3/16 wide planking ? Anyway thats it I would appreciate some help.  

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello There. I really am glad to have found your post. I received this very same model as a gift and recently started working it. It is my first wooden ship and it sure is different from the usual modelling I work on.

I am currently at the point of shaping the frame just prior to placing the planking. I was concerned about the second layer of copper planking, but nowhere in the plans did it indicate what that copper planking was, just part 33 (whatever that was). I assumed it was the copper roll, but I needed to make sure. Again thank you for posting your experience - a great help.

A side note: The frame for the propeller in my kit was too wide for the propeller. So I tried to gently squeeze it to bring it in line and - yep, it broke. So I had to make a new one. I also did not glue the prop.

cb

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 12/19/2021 at 11:54 AM, Malas@1 said:

Now I can proceed with planking I see you started from the water line up and down and it looks like you planked to almost the top of the frames is that correct? My question is does the deck get glued to the top of the frames its thin material are there any support pieces that go  across the frames and if so what is the Bulwarks made of I dont see any material in the kit for it in fact I'm not even sure I have enough for the planking what I have is only a bundle of 3/16 wide planking ?

 

@Malas@1 Hey Malas, I apologize for the late response to your post.  I have not visited this log in a while and just noticed your comment.  I hope it's not too late to help.  

 

Yes, I planked to the top of the frames, all the way up to the top of the "goalposts".  Then I went back and broke off/sanded down the goal posts.  Then I carved out the gun ports afterwards.  Thus, the bulwarks are really planking strips.  I do not know if that was how I was supposed to do it, but that's the only way I could figure out how to do it at the time.  I was worried about how sturdy it would be, and it is a bit flimsy, but it came out ok. 

 

As for the quantity of planking strips, I had plenty of the 1/4" strips but the 3/16" quantity was tight.  Do not waste any!

 

Yes, the deck gets glued to the top of the frames, kind of like a bed with box springs sitting on slats.

 

Again, I apologize for just now seeing this and getting back to you.  Are you posting a build log?

 

Edited by Glen McGuire
Posted

@curtbroo Thank you for checking in and commenting.  As with Malas above, I apologize for the late response to your post.  Congratulations on trying this kit for your first wooden model ship.  I hope you enjoy the effort as much as I did.  

 

If you have not done so already, I would highly recommend posting a build log for your work in progress.  The support of this community is absolutely fantastic.  There are so many incredible people with amazing modeling talents that are willing to offer comments, advice, guidance, tips, trick, etc.  I wish I'd discovered this forum before I finished (or started) my Alabama. 

 

On the other hand, if you have started a build log, please let me know.  I'd love to follow along.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 7/21/2021 at 7:00 PM, Keith Black said:

 No, but I'd bash the heck out of the kit. The idea of having a set of plans to work from versus working from old photographs is sooooo appealing. 

 

 The transition period of 1850 to 1900 going from sail to steam, wood hull to iron hull, and cannon to gun really fascinates me. I've pretty well painted myself into a corner with all the research I've done on that fifty year period, I think it would be wasted if I tried venturing off into another time period. 

Have you looked at the USRC Harriett Lane (Model Ship MS2270 kit)?  Sail/steam 1857.  It's on my to-do list.

CaptJoe

Seattle/Tucson

Current build: Norwegian Sailing Pram

Completed build: Grand Banks Dory

Posted

 Side wheelers don't do it for me, I think it's because they're at the start of the transition period. I'm much committed to the 1870-1900 time period but I'm beginning to have my doubts about another long term commitment. If you're in to side wheelers it looks like a great kit.  

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

This has been a very interesting thread to follow as I am interested in the CSS Alabama and contemplating building a model of the ship having recently acquired Andrew Bowcock's book CSS Alabama The Anatomy of a Confederate Raider.

I understand that Bluejacket has issued a limited edition of 150 kits of the ship in 1/96th scale. Besides the kits they sell sets of plans as separate items too. Their kit is reckoned to be the most accurate to date of all the kits of this ship.

A short time ago I contacted Occre about making a kit of the Alabama and got a quick response thanking me for approaching them with the suggestion. Whether they take it further or not, who knows?

 

Edited by NoelSmith

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