HMS Sphinx 1775 by Jasseji (Jacek) - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[Jasseji]

Thanks @chris watton and @James H i will try again to soak and bend, if it doesnt work with just the provided pinholes, i'll add more (although i was hoping to avoid those ugly holes)

[James H]

1 hour ago, Jasseji said:

Thanks @chris watton and @James H i will try again to soak and bend, if it doesnt work with just the provided pinholes, i'll add more (although i was hoping to avoid those ugly holes)

I used the holes on mine, and also added more, so don't worry about it. A lick of filler in each hole and a 2 second sanding is all it needs to totally hide them. Remember though, some holes are for scuppers.

[Jasseji]

The cat just threw down the heavy box with all the Sphinx pieces down from the shelf while i was pinning the wale...

 

 

 

 

On the other hand, i did manage to pin the wale pattern in place after having soaked it extensively, i hope i can get all pins out

Edited October 25, 2021 by Jasseji

[Glenn-UK]

Hopefully it can be repaired.

[Jasseji]

1 hour ago, glennard2523 said:

Hopefully it can be repaired.

yes, it broke off cleanly, only real damage is the laser-engraved patter on the port side, but i was able to glue it back on and the joint isnt visible.

 

I also did an inventory of the Box contents to see if nothing was damaged, a single plank was indeed from the 22-foot boat but the damage is minor - phew 

 

My new 300eur PC/Phone headset wasnt that lucky, it sports some nice scratches now...

 

wales pinned in place on both sides, starboard side looks better (and this is my "display" side)

 

Waiting for CA gel delivery and will let the patterns dry out through the night

Edited October 25, 2021 by Jasseji

[Jasseji]

Fixes 

 

[Blue Ensign]

That’s the beauty of wood not much that cannot be repaired, unless of course your cat is into arson. 😉 Then I should worry.

 

B.E.

 

[Jasseji]

18 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

That’s the beauty of wood not much that cannot be repaired, unless of course your cat is into arson. 😉 Then I should worry.

 

B.E.

 

The Moment she starts burning stuff, I'll burn her own fur, That should keep her from ideas

[Jasseji]

[Blue Ensign]

Looks like she's casting a critical eye, I hope she likes it.

 

I do, her lines, (the model, not the cat) look elegant, nice job, Jacek.

 

 

B.E.

[Jasseji]

10 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Looks like she's casting a critical eye, I hope she likes it.

 

I do, her lines, (the model, not the cat) look elegant, nice job, Jacek.

 

 

B.E.

She's looking what misfit she can do, forgot already the scare she got when she fell with the box...

 

Ye, the black wale really adds to the model, this is the port non-display side, moving on to the other but i am already considering if i wouldnt want to paint the whole area below the wales white (there are some places especially at the stern which i dont really like and would prefer to cover them up)

[Blue Ensign]

You could always copper her, the real thing was coppered in 1781.🤔

 

B.E.

[Jasseji]

10 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

You could always copper her, the real thing was coppered in 1781.🤔

 

B.E.

That's the other thing i am thinking about, but coppering wouldnt cover up to the stern counter (or would it ?) 

[Blue Ensign]

Unfortunately not, only up to the waterline.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

2 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

That's the other thing i am thinking about, but coppering wouldnt cover up to the stern counter (or would it ?) 

No you would only copper from waterline toward keel

[Jasseji]

Looking at the Trinc tho (i know she is a later ship) the coppering goes very high, in case of the Sphinx if you go that high, it would cover all of the 2nd Planking:

 

 

 

[Jasseji]

Wait a sec, should the Stern Fascia be higher ? @James H

Edited October 26, 2021 by Jasseji

[James H]

It definitely needs to be higher. Approx 2mm above height of bulwarks. 

 

There's a note in the instructions about this and the need for the lower counter to be in the correct position. 

[hollowneck]

Yep. Good that you caught this problem before you go much further. It appears that the stern fascia piece is 2-3mm too low, which of course is going to affect the counters you've already built. From your previous posts - excellent work BTW - you have the skills to adjust to this problem and scratch new pieces as required. The stern is, by far, the most critical part of this build: the complex angles and multiple pieces that form this area all require carefully executed mounting with close tolerances for proper fitting.

 

Ron

[Glenn-UK]

29 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

Wait a sec, should the Stern Fascia be higher ? @James H

Yes it is far too low. Please take a look at BE's build log also which shows perfectly how the fascia and two counter patterns should be positioned.

[Jasseji]

18 minutes ago, James H said:

It definitely needs to be higher. Approx 2mm above height of bulwarks. 

 

There's a note in the instructions about this and the need for the lower counter to be in the correct position. 

awww crap, i used CA to glue the Stern Fascia.........

 

also, i already glued one gallery before noticing that.

 

I'm used to follow instructions step by step, and the note about the 2-3mm is on the next page 😕

 

[James H]

Just now, Jasseji said:

awww crap, i used CA to glue the Stern Fascia.........

 

also, i already glued one gallery before noticing that.

 

I'm used to follow instructions step by step, and the note about the 2-3mm is on the next page 😕

 

 

It's no biggie. You can (possibly) extend lower counter, or scrap it and build from planking strips. 

[hollowneck]

Maybe this pic will help, Jasseji.

With this high magnification, a lot of things show-up that don't normally meet the eye! You'll likely note that I changed the configuration of the lower gallery finishing piece "drop"- this is also very dependent on the alignment of the MDF slot pieces to build the gallery.

Cheers,

Ron

[Jasseji]

2 minutes ago, James H said:

 

It's no biggie. You can (possibly) extend lower counter, or scrap it and build from planking strips. 

wait a sec, lower counter was until the 1st nicks in the stern timbers, upper counter covered the 2nd nick

 

after fitting the counters it looks exactly as in step 197

 

my upper counter and upper inner fascia are on CA

 

i dont understand how extending the lower counter should help at this stage

[Jasseji]

1 minute ago, hollowneck said:

Maybe this pic will help, Jasseji.

With this high magnification, a lot of things show-up that don't normally meet the eye! You'll likely note that I changed the configuration of the lower gallery finishing piece "drop"- this is also very dependent on the alignment of the MDF slot pieces to build the gallery.

Cheers,

Ron

wait, but your stern fascia is exactly how mine is, now i dont understand completely

[Glenn-UK]

11 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

wait, but your stern fascia is exactly how mine is, now i dont understand completely

The key is to get the stern fascia correctly positioned and then the two counter patterns can be positioned.

[Jasseji]

 

Ok, ok, little panic, some cursing and the glue gave way.

 

I positioned the Fascia as in Step 313:

 

Ok, so this would be the proper way ?

 

But then, the connecting rod of the trandom timbers is visible through the windows (te gap between the counters i can cover with something, no problem, but that connecting rod irritates me here a bit - because it would mean the top of the windows is flush with upper deck level, possibly even higher)

 

Edited October 26, 2021 by Jasseji

[hollowneck]

The stern fascia piece needs to align so that the top of it (which has the "scallop" peak on the sides is exactly flush - even- with the highest point of the bulwarks that it meets (thin red section). You can see (barely) that my alignment of these elements at this point is slightly lower (perhaps .6 mm) than optimum but my tolerance at this same point is closer on the starboard side of my build. This is what I meant by "close tolerances for proper fitting."

 

My comment about the lower counter and finishing piece/drop has nothing to do with this upper stern fit dilemma; my apologies, this may have been confusing. Please note however that in the manual there is an error in the build photo on Page 41, step photo 220 and points to the PREVIOUSLY MOUNTED Gallery Upper Pattern in error: this is a subsequent build step and DOES affect the lower gallery construction. James H may clarify this for you.

Ron

[Jasseji]

3 minutes ago, hollowneck said:

The stern fascia piece needs to align so that the top of it (which has the "scallop" peak on the sides is exactly flush - even- with the highest point of the bulwarks that it meets (thin red section). You can see (barely) that my alignment of these elements at this point is slightly lower (perhaps .6 mm) than optimum but my tolerance at this same point is closer on the starboard side of my build. This is what I meant by "close tolerances for proper fitting."

 

My comment about the lower counter and finishing piece/drop has nothing to do with this upper stern fit dilemma; my apologies, this may have been confusing. Please note however that in the manual there is an error in the build photo on Page 41, step photo 220 and points to the PREVIOUSLY MOUNTED Gallery Upper Pattern in error: this is a subsequent build step and DOES affect the lower gallery construction. James H may clarify this for you.

Ron

no, i'm clear about step 220, what i am not clear about if the Fascia position is correct in step 313 or in step 202 (level with bulwarks as in step 202 or higher as in step 313)

[hollowneck]

That looks better - your stern fascia is now even a little higher than mine - which will be fine to align the bulwarks to stern interface. And, Yes, the ply piece that reinforces the fragile MDF stern timbers IS VISIBLE through the windows. A more significant issue as you've discovered is that the lower counter (inner pattern) doesn't meet the stern fascia bottom properly. Hence, some scratching will be required; perhaps a slender strip that can fill the visible gap- but you'll need to trace the curvature at the bottom of the stern piece so don't mount it yet!

 

Ron