V Tool

[Malazan]

Anyone use a V Tool/Chisel to cut the rabbet? If so, what size of tool would be appropriate?

 

 Thank you 

[Bob Cleek]

Well now, that would depend on the size of the rabbet, wouldn't it?  

 

Just pick a size that's comfortable for you. The most important thing is that the tool is sharp. The best way is to cut the rabbet at the base of each frame using a fit stick to take up the angle of the face of each frame and then connect the notches by cutting out the rabbet between the notches. That's the easiest was to develop the rolling bevel so your planking will lie fair against the frame faces and the back-rabbet.

Edited October 5, 2021 by Bob Cleek

[Malazan]

LOL pardon my ignorance but what is a Fit Stick, I tried google but I just keep getting a bunch of exercise stuff 😂 

[vaddoc]

Getting a straight line with a V chisel is to my experience very difficult. It will end up wavy-especially in large scales. Repeated cuts with a very sharp chisel, up to 6 mm for straight, 3 mm for curves, then deepening the grove without touching the edge of the rabet, works much better for me.

[AON]

I make a scrapper and scrape the rabbet groove in.

 

I was told to use an old metal saw blade.  Heat it cherry red with a torch to soften (anneal) it (quench in cold water), and then file the desired shape into it.

[Jack12477]

You could use a 4mm Macaroni Chisel  . No, it's not something you eat😉

[Edwardkenway]

2 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

You could use a 4mm Macaroni Chisel  . No, it's not something you eat😉

Another tool shop that draws you in, then takes your hard earned😄😇.

Some of the V parting tools could be ideal for the job!

[Bob Cleek]

On 10/5/2021 at 5:38 AM, Malazan said:

LOL pardon my ignorance but what is a Fit Stick, I tried google but I just keep getting a bunch of exercise stuff 😂 

It's a boatwright's term. A fit stick is a short squared stick of wood with a bevel cut on one end that is the same thickness as your planking. It serves to check the fit of the plank in the rabbet as you cut the rabbet. You lay the fit stick against the frame face and slide it down until it fetches up against the keel. You start cutting a notch which will be the shape of the rabbet at that point on the keel and sliding the fit stick down as you remove wood until the stick fits perfectly into the short section of rabbet you've cut. You do this at each frame on the rabbet and similarly in the stem and stern posts. Then you strike your rabbet line with a batten, connecting the rabbet line at each notch you've cut. Then, again using your fit stick, you cut the rest of the rabbet, connecting the notches. In this fashion, the rolling bevel of the rabbet is cut so the plank will lay fairly and flush into the rabbet, which is particularly important on a real rabbet seam which will have to be caulked, but isn't as important with a model that isn't going to be caulked. Still, even with a model, it's got to fit well unless you don't mind slapping a lot of filler to make up for a sloppy fit. This is the easiest way to cut the angle of a rabbet accurately because plans generally only show the rabbet line, but not the back rabbet (apex) line, nor the bearding line.

 

A video is worth ten thousand words.... this British fellow calls it a "planking block," though. "Fit stick" may be an Americanism. See: Traditional Maritime Skills :: Cutting the Rabbet (large vessels) (boat-building.org)

 

This site has a great collection of text and video instructions for boatbuilding skills. Any modeler who is unfamiliar with traditional full-sized wooden boat and ship building techniques should find it very helpful. It's a handy reference site.

 

Edited October 7, 2021 by Bob Cleek

[tlevine]

Malazan, do you have a first name?

 

For the central keel portion, a simple 90 degree scraper will suffice; think single edged razor.  Remember, the idea is to give your planking a secure notch to fit into.  Technically, the exact angle will change along the entire course of the keel but that isn't critical until you get to the deadwood area (aft) and the bow area.  Once you do that area, go to the notched areas on the stem and deadwood.  Use a French curve to guide your Exacto knife as you slowly cut into the wood.  (Very inexpensive curves can be bought at craft stores or Amazon (https://amazon.com/Pacific-Arc-French-Curve-Set/dp/B073V4ZRJL/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1RYU13670RPMZ&dchild=1&keywords=french+curves&qid=1633618939&sprefix=french+%2Caps%2C256&sr=8-9).  After you have those areas done, connect the V-shaped and notched areas by carefully removing small amounts of wood with your knife, finishing it with a sanding stick (a scrap of wood with sandpaper glued onto it).

 

As I have said elsewhere, practice off the model.  A sheet of basswood from Menard's is cheap.

[Malazan]

Thank you very much Toni, also yes, sorry my name is John

[tlevine]

Thanks, John.  It's always more personal to talk to a name rather than a screen name.