Paint and varnish thoughts, recommendations

[Steve116]

Hi

 

i have started to paint my Cape Cod Catboat. This is my first model. I have already painted the hull  using Floquil product and hope to clean up the boot top using thin line tape above and below and using a spray clear coat enamel to “seal” the edges to prevent color bleed( an experienced modeler’s suggestion ) . This clear coat should be hi gloss to match the sheen of the hull paint

 

Testor makes a hi gloss clear coat enamel BUT is currently 

unavailable- supply chain issues- has anyone used another hi gloss clear coat?

 

The mast and gaff will be painted white. In order to be as authentic as possible, should this white match rhe white on the hull?

 

Model overcoat- I have a friend that used a spray overcoat and was unhappy with the outcome - turned a satin finish flat. The model instructions recommend a satin polyurethane varnish. Miniwax offers that product in a can. What are modelers using- spray or brush? And if spray, the names of some brands, please

 

Thank you!

 

Steve

 

 

Edited October 9, 2021 by Steve116
Mistake correction

[mtaylor]

Tamiya makes some as does Vellejo.  Both spray and bottles.

[Roger Pellett]

IMHO,  If you have Floquil paints, you’re using the best.  I like the Tamiya paints too.  I see no reason to overcoat paints used to paint your hull. I especially would not paint polyurethane varnish over your Floquil painted hull.  Floquil is known for its ability to provide excellent coverage with thin coats thanks to their finely ground pigments.  Overcoating with varnish will add an unnecessary thick coat that is likely to tint your white topsides.

 

Wooden spars were often finished bright (natural).  Where mast hoops were used they could scar a painted finish.  If you decide to paint them white, I wouldn’t worry about getting an exact color match.

 

Roger

[Jaager]

1 hour ago, Steve116 said:

This clear coat should be hi gloss to match the sheen of the hull paint

This is something that I did not want to hear when it was first published in the NRJ, but scale has a definite effect on just how much gloss a paint finish should have.

Even at 1:24 egg shell or matte would better approximate a full size gloss hull seen from 24 feet away - is what I am thinking.

High gloss on a model runs the danger of making it look like a toy.

[Bob Cleek]

The mentioned article in the NRJ is, as I recall, reprinted in volume two of Ship Modeler's Shop Notes, Vol. 2 – Nautical Research Guild (thenrgstore.org) It's a bargain at the price. It's chock full of good ship modeling technical advice. It contains the best discussion of model finishing I've ever seen. The effect of "scale viewing distance" on model finishes (flat, satin, gloss) and model colors is fully explained in the text and the difference between a well painted model and a less-than-well painted model is tremendous. 

[Steve116]

It looks like Floquil hasn’t been around for awhile and recently that’s the case for Testors Model Master, too( since 2020?) I am finding some stock on the Internet, but not sure of age or the quality of this product.( I still have the Floquil paint bottles that are 14 yrs old- the Reefer white is completely dried) I’ve been advised not to mix water based acrylics w/ solvent based enamels( I’m going to consult Testors on Monday) It seems like a little  more research is called for

Edited October 10, 2021 by Steve116
Added info

[mtaylor]

My local hobby shop when I bought my paints for Sphinx had some Model Master paints but hadn't received any for months.  Apparently its supply chain issue or they've stopped making them.  

 

I've heard you can use enamel for the base and then acrylic for the top coat... or maybe it's the other way around.  I'm using only acrylics as enamels are a pain what with turpentine, odor, etc.

[glbarlow]

I think the time for models and enamel are are all but ended, I haven't used an enamel based paint in years. The quality of acrylics is excellent, why deal with the mess and hassle of oil based paints.  I finished it all off with Wipe On Poly, which is oil based, but that's wipe on, wipe off - easy.

[Canute]

Rustoleum, parent of Testors, ended the Model Master line. You may find stocks at some shops, but many colors are no longer available in the Model Master line. Get familiar with acrylics or hunt for the dwindling list of lacquer/enamel providers. The available lac/enamel paints are very good, as paints go, but your matching to your desired color may require mixing custom paints. And handling of the materials may drive where you are willing to go.

[Roger Pellett]

I tumbled on to the Tamiya spray can primers in our local Hobby Lobby while my wife was spending “quality time” in the next door Target Store.  I first used them to prime cast metal military miniature figures.  They appear be old style lacquer based coatings as once dried they can be dissolved in lacquer thinner.  I like them very much.

 

My present 1909 Great Lakes Freighter Model will be painted in common industrial colors; black, grey, red oxide, white, all of which are available as Tamiya primers.  I intend to use these Tamiya primers for finish painting.

 

I have found, that overcoating these with a light coat of Testor’s  Dulcote seems to give “depth” to the finish and enhances durability on metal surfaces.

 

I have not had good luck with hardware store rattle can paints as the nozzles gum up long before the can is empty and even switching to a fresh nozzle does not always solve the problem.  I have not had this problem with either the Tamiya or Testor’s Model Master spray cans.

 

Roger

Edited October 10, 2021 by Roger Pellett

[SkiBee]

For clear coats, I've found that Tamiya Clear Flat is a good overcoat.  Also, I routinely use Rust-oleum Clear Flat or Matt for a clear overcoat.  The later being cheaper than Tamiya, I've not had a problem with the nozzle spurting as mentioned above.  I've not been clear coating painted surface as much as stained or bare wood.

[Bob Cleek]

May I ask for a moment of silence in memory of Floquil paints? .... Sigh. I miss them so much.

 

For those who appreciate the qualities of solvent-based paints:

 

Tru-Color Paint, a very high quality solvent-based paint, has been getting rave reviews since they hit the market a few years ago. For some reason, however, they aren't as widely distributed as other brands. Perhaps that's just a function of the "battle for shelf space" in retail stores. I've never used them, but they are big in the model railroad and military armor communities where color accuracy is a very big deal. It seems some of the OEM's are using nothing else on their production lines. Tru-Color Paint | When You Need Tru-Color (trucolorpaint.com) I'd like to hear a review from anybody who's used them.

 

As always, high-quality tubed artists' oil paints are readily available in art supply stores everywhere and the color palette is unlimited. If you haven't used them, it may take a little learning curve, but mixing your own paint from tubed colors is the least expensive way to get a high quality finish. (Check YouTube for "using artists' oil paints on models."

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Roger Pellett]

Actually, I have never had a problem with hardware quality clear coats gumming up in rattle cans either.  It’s always the pigmented stuff.

 

Roger

[Canute]

TruColor is a very nice paint, although it should be applied over a primer. especially if used on resin parts. It dries glossy, so removes one finishing step if decaling. It is acetone based so use in well ventilated space.

[Roger Pellett]

For those of lucky enough to have access to Floquil paints what thinner is used? They used to sell a thinner call Diosol (?) but does anyone know what it’s active ingredient was?

 

Roger

[Jaager]

A search  came up with Xylol as the main ingredient  for the 70's version.

Xylol is listed as being a mixture of o- , m-, and  p- xylene

its advantage was a slower evaporation rate than mineral spirits or lacquer thinner or naphtha.

its downside is that it dissolves polystyrene.   A barrier coat was required.

 

There are several organic solvents available that would substitute for brushing.  A quick search found that xylene itself is still for sale.

None of it is something you want to breathe. 

[Roger Pellett]

Thanks Jaager.  I was at our local Mernards Store and bought solvents that I keep on hand in my shop.  They have Xylol.

 

Roger