TEV Wahine 1965 by Richard Dunn - scale 1:35 - RADIO

[Roger Pellett]

Richard,

 

I just recently plated the hull of my Benjamin Noble model.  See thread in this same category.  I used shellac coated paper.  This will be a static not an RC model.  She was of riveted  construction using the in and out method.

 

You will be plating the hull of a welded ship using wood.  I would be concerned with sanding after painting hiding detail.  I would, therefore, suggest that you prime, rib down, and paint your plating material until you can no longer see the wood grain prior to plating. Once you have plated the hull, very light sanding, and a light finish coat should be sufficient.  

 

Some plates, like those along the bilge radius should probably be bent prior to prefinishing.

 

Roger

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Richard Dunn]

Thanks for the tip Roger, yeah I intend to finish most plates to primer base before fixing and applying weld bead.
I was more hoping to get some advice from those with more experience than I on the actual painting order when it comes to topcoat,  I was not very clear I am afraid, but wondering if it would be a crime to paint it in areas tat are completed to shell but not fitted out and then touch up once fittings are attached etc, I would think touch ups could actually make it more realistic really as ships are constantly re painted and touched up
Well I have assembled the lid frame. or 3 upper levels of Superstructure , I have it just sitting in place, no its not seated yet and is crooked but could not resist leaning parts against it to get a sense of size and bulk.
Keep in mind this is all just substrate and final ,5mm ply plating will be glued to this 2mm ply with actual opening sizes, ports etc are 1.5mm smaller all around than the holes you see here.

Edited December 19, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Roger Pellett]

I’m not sure what you mean, but gluing things to a painted surface is not a good idea as the bond is only as strong as the glue’s bond to the paint.

 

Roger

[Richard Dunn]

More parts glued on, bow end 85% done

[Jim Lad]

She's coming along beautifully, Richard.

 

John

[hof00]

Awesome!!

[Richard Dunn]

I need some help

I have to get some heavy paper printed with wood and linoleum patterns for the interior of some spaces, what ink is able to be sprayed with clear varnish without running?

Edited December 27, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Greg G]

You can just spray it with two light cost of  White Knight Crystal Clear Spray Paint .

It has to be a very l light costs  .

Or Micador for Artists Crystal Clear Spray from Officeworks

Edited December 27, 2021 by Greg G

[Richard Dunn]

All done I have created the art for the different surfaces like formica, wood panelling and lino   and lastly murals all printed and got the Micador spray as well to go.

Edited December 30, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Above is the floor and murals from around the engine uptake casing, both seen here in photos.

Sorry about res, I forgot to size down.

 

Edited December 30, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

So the plan is to seal the plywood with Everdure to harden and protect the wood, sand it all properly flat.
then paint areas like toespace and negative details in flat black and then glue the paper panels which have been prepared onto the model, then use thin strips of adhesive aluminium tape to do all the trims and then varnish.
The panels are prepped by cutting from sheet running around edge with felt tip of matching colour and varnishing with picture satin varnish.

The furniture will be all done on resin printer and painted with pins to fix into floor so it does not shake loose.

[Richard Dunn]

Some progress shots from today

the smoke room  and windows inside

Lots of grills to make as you can see here on the fan rooms

A lot of glue smear etc but you can see the joints all came up pretty tight given the size.

Edited January 1, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[yvesvidal]

This is getting really impressive and exciting.

 

Yves

[Jim Lad]

She's really looking the 'ant's pants', Richard.

 

John

[Ian_Grant]

The "bee's knees" too.

[Veszett Roka]

Also spider's armpits. Oh wait.. 

[Stephen Allen]

This is an amazing build Richard, and what a presence she will have on the water. I have just, nearly(!) almost finished building an RN WW2 Frigate to 1/72 scale, much tinier. The order and time of painting is something I though long and hard about, as painting major bits too early can lead to a lot of rework and cleaning as you continue the other dirty bits of the build. Your build has interior detail painting so some of that will inevitably need to be painted early, then protected for the duration of the build, but the method I chose was to leave finish painting of the hull and superstructure to the absolute last possible stage, so that the model could be thoroughly cleaned, prepared, then not dirtied/ dusted up again. To do this you need to be able to plan subsequent fitting of details in a way that allows you to avoid marring finished surfaces again. In your chosen gigantic scale, many of your fittings could be made to remain detachable using rare earth magnets, which eases both painting/masking and any subsequent repair, and makes it easier to set up for sailing without knocking things off. Some could simply be mounted on spigots and gravity will keep them in place.
 

In my scale I also built different stands to allow me to do things like invert the hull, support the superstructure etc, in a way that allowed me to paint structures without handling them. These also need to be planned and built in advance then tested to ensure they won’t damage anything in use.  Quite how you do that with a ship the size of a small car I don’t know!

 

Best wishes with your build!

 

Steve

 

 

 

[Richard Dunn]

Those are some interesting considerations, I think I will adhere to this but get it to a primed state and leave it at that. I do think it needs to be at that point so weld seams etc can be done and painted over.

[KeithAug]

"HUGELY" impressive.

[Richard Dunn]

Well I have been experimenting with making windows, I have cut all the 2mm Acrylic glass on the ship now so that's done.
So I was playing with styrene or PE for windows and have opted for styrene as I have found I can in fact cut it on the CNC without it melting.
This is a HUGE advantage as gluing the frame to the glass can be done neatly with Tamiya cement and all the edge bars around the frames can be welded on, all I will do is make a jig that holds the frame in the bottom of a hole and bend in the lip to fit the sides and weld, then paint and add the wood mullion and glue to the clear Acrylic, this is going to produce pretty faithfull windows to the real thing, and not too slow either  which is just as well as I have 300 odd windows to make of varying types

[Greg G]

Only 300 odd windows to make .Lucky you don't have to cut them by hand it would take for ever .

Looks very good done on your CNC and will save you a lot of time .

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Just had a look online at your CNC. The world is your oyster with that machine, if you wanted to shell out for additional tooling I.e. a print head, presumably for filament, plotter, engraver etc. My memory may be playing tricks but I’m fairly sure we used to mill and turn styrene back in one of the places I worked, when whatever machine we were building needed something like a fixed inspection window. Just a question of getting the cutting and travel speeds right. And, to go off topic, you could make and sell some nice after-market scale decks with that thing…. 

[Richard Dunn]

17 hours ago, Richard Dunn said:

I have a question regarding the detail of resin printing. I own a Phrozon Mini with good resolution screen and before I order rivets and bolt heads would like to know if anybody has done these at my scale or know from experience it can be done.
Rivets are round head  1.2mm in Diameter,  The bolts need to be about 1mm in Diameter.

 

[Greg G]

Yes you can .

Draw a box 2mm high and as long as you need then add a post no smaller than .5mm  it also needs to be about 2mm high .

Now draw the Rivets  or round head  on the top of the post

.The post will be cut off the 2mm box .

Print it flat on the build plate 

Just a note don't fill up your build plate

[Greg G]

This may help you as well desing rules.pdf

[Richard Dunn]

Cool I might see what I get, I only need the rivet heads not the shaft and need about 3000 of them so this will be good.

Its the supports that take practice I am finding, actually I wonder.....hmmm I might even be able to print lengths of weld seam with a tiny bit of wobble.
That scales at between .6 and .9 in width off that photo.
Dam it why do the holidays have to end today.

[Greg G]

The shaft is only for support for printing  and can be cut off .

If you try to print  the Rivets or bolts  with out the support  you will have a  elephant foot .

And have a lot of work to remove it of each one .

 

 

Edited January 9, 2022 by Greg G

[Richard Dunn]

Yeah I have done printing before just not an expert yet.
These are not setup for printing in this image but these parts are done.

I have just put these on plate for display only

[Richard Dunn]

Some update, fitting finish plates to model, they will be primed and have windows fitted along with any structure like stiffeners and rivets before being glued to model.

The curtain plates can be seen protruding up in places.

Also the base for the Aft lounge sitting on the upper deck can be seen and the large 56mm windows, as you can see, it needs an interior.

Added this a a similar shot for comparison.

Above showing the promenade screen sitting in place shows the large area that has to be finished before being able to close it in.

The bridge is going to be a very difficult piece of work, the hard parts are not shown here yet.

Edited January 9, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[Kevin-the-lubber]

8 hours ago, Richard Dunn said:

I have a question regarding the detail of resin printing. I own a Phrozon Mini with good resolution screen and before I order rivets and bolt heads would like to know if anybody has done these at my scale or know from experience it can be done.
Rivets are round head  1.2mm in Diameter,  The bolts need to be about 1mm in Diameter.

 

I second Greg's suggestion, but I would keep short shafts, maybe a couple of mm long, make a drilling template (100 holes or so) and drill guide holes to the right depth in the hull. It'll be miles easier locating the rivets in holes than on a surface and you can use the last holes as locators for the next sequence so they are all nicely aligned. And if you really want to, you could probably get an interference fit so you don't even need to use any glue. Otherwise, I'd try a 0.8 shaft for a 1mm hole or 0.6 to 0.8 if the head isn't covering the hole well enough. The belay pins below have 0.6mm shafts, these are on a single support, which works fine, so either approach should be okay. (The bending on some is because I haven't stored them upright, something must have been leaning on them).

 

You should be able to do blocks of maybe 300 or 400 at a time, just leave a gap of about 1mm between them to ensure there's no bridging and, as Greg says, don't get too greedy 're filling the build plate. Me, I'd go for about 50% occupancy tops. Also, nudge the stl a little on the plate for each print run. You'll get little dinks in the FEP when doing these as you're repeatedly pulling on tiny spots and it's better to vary that a bit.

 

 

 

Re' weld seams, do-able but may be tricky. The width is okay : I imagine the butt welds are about 20mm - 30mm wide so 0.6mm - 1mm at 1:35, plenty wide enough for resin printing, I've printed the equivalent at 0.3mm without any real issue; but the welds wouldn't protrude that much from the hull surface, probably no more than 3 or 4 mm, which scaled is only about 0.1mm i.e. 2 print layers. The biggest challenge may be getting the strips off the build plate but glue-ing them on could be fun as well. I think I'd instead look at whether I could run a tiny bead of epoxy glue down the line and press a pattern into the surface when it's near-dry but still soft, or something like that.