HMS Sophie by TBlack - kit-bashing Jack Aubrey's first command from the Vanguard Models HMS Speedy

[TBlack]

Various spars/yards shaped. Next is to add hardware and paint. I'm going to join several others that thought the PE fittings for the stun'sl booms didn't look right But on closer inspection it turns out that they're perfect.

[TBlack]

Done! Boy, that took some time:

 

I

Interestingly, the plans I have indicate that the brace pendants are natural, but all the models here that I've seen tar their pendants. Haven't checked with Lees. Also, because none of the masts are glued in place, I should be able to attach the spars off ship and no problems, right? I can't think that, having the yards in place will interfere with stays/shrouds. Oh! And see that the yards are sitting on fine grit sandpaper. I find that, working over that spot, and I drop a block it doesn't bounce on the floor. It doesn't bounce at all!

Edited June 29 by TBlack

[chris watton]

Brace pendants should be black, my mistake...

[Keith Black]

 Brother Tom, those look great and that's a lot of work.

 

 Yes, do as much off model mast work as possible attaching the spars to the mast. It's so much easier, do you have a table top vice? My B&D Workmate bench top vice proved to be invaluable (thanks again to @rwiederrich) for doing off model work. 

 

 Here's a eBay link for one at a great price.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326180611770?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20231107084023%26meid%3D68cd33138caa4d7284a621ac4a276bed%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D375500335234%26itm%3D326180611770%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3EmbeddedAuctionsCPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecallManual%26brand%3DBLACK%2BDECKER&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A32618061177068cd33138caa4d7284a621ac4a276bed|enc%3AAQAJAAABgP9d%2BMZSXlztIfYFu3kI%2B7ft0VcQix7rTrUVdiJwc2upzwLfM%2B2UEqu0ZqdXqu2qWe6up6s9MSEY%2BWikIwEh4xLkizL%2BG%2Fyhg6cdW4xfkbb75erVQBYYISNxGN1au%2BE0eJ778JYYSAyLJRupNiZky3B2UHpMsaEp7JRgW9fuueOszPlG9eCPE4mSzJx4EejjZE0v1xx3s4HgKujjhEB3s6n3rVM74tXr%2F3IePxzpUMK1eP7655q8enVEHXpfbSIUTWQDNEZ%2BV3iSAOL1%2B1OEcY3M0wq4YZnJpkZbM0m2sUP8%2B6QHYeDmryoe8C1eNpvCBFz1Hv%2BdGYxWil5kGzBwyPNE3IOWbw65qbOzeYo8kHEj9NwAymyhJEpr%2Ffu%2B0fiXIOgNVbkzp2fkFUCvR%2BYm5NPIYGnDnE27NP4LWjW89G%2FIAxLXZCYGeqkG7ZVEPJJulLEQzib26iy92TGpXPJSbVXO3%2FovDTPspVyEML%2FXA7r6Pw%2Fwi3YP%2BQ2tZnB4NFVB0A%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&epid=28030358934&itmmeta=01J1JSEP84HQ2KF40PA6QQHTQX

[TBlack]

Chris, Rather than redo all those brace pendants, I decided to just paint the lines black. Seems to work!

 

Brother Keith, I have been using this device. Not the greatest....too many moving parts, but it does the job.

 

[Keith Black]

 Tom, I hit the like button because of your response to Chris not because of the third hand you're using for a table top vice. Order that Workmate off eBay or PM me your address and I'll buy it for you and have it shipped to you. 

[TBlack]

Keith,

I’m really constrained for bench space and this device looks too big for my shop. Let me use what I have and we’ll see.

[TBlack]

It's now time to put my new serving machine together, so a slight pause in ship building.

[Keith Black]

53 minutes ago, TBlack said:

I’m really constrained for bench space and this device looks too big for my shop. Let me use what I have and we’ll see.

 It sits on a table or bench top and is only 8 inches, not that much bigger than the third hand you're currently using. 

[TBlack]

Keith, I'm not sure you're grasping the situation. In the picture, that piece of paper is 8" square. It takes up all available space, and where do I put it when not in use. The only option is the floor...nope. Besides, you can see the device that I'm using there on the right. Much easier to deal with. But thanks for the suggestion.

Tom

[Knocklouder]

Tom, you might like this 3 inch swivel jewelry  vice. It clamps to the edge  of the work bench and  can be put away when not in use.  Just a thought, Keith  I have lots of space I'll  pm you my address  😉 

 

Edited June 30 by Knocklouder
Guessing typos lol

[TBlack]

Thanks, knocklouder. I’ve got 3 of those.

Tom

[Keith Black]

5 hours ago, TBlack said:

Keith, I'm not sure you're grasping the situation

 Whoa, I didn't realize you're working in a space the size of a telephone booth.  

 

I see some Gutermann  thread on the bench, poly? How do you like it?

[TBlack]

Keith, That roll came with the kit. I've been using it as seizing, and it's fine. For the shroud/stay seizing I'll be using this:

I'm not sure I can achieve the level of detail that Toni Levine has done in her tutorial (I'm 50% smaller), but I'll get close.

Tom

[Keith Black]

 I love Gutermann poly threads, great stuff. You're doing great, Tom. I sure don't see any issues. 

[TBlack]

Oh, and Keith that isn't my only workbench I've got these too, but, as you can see, not a lot of free space;

[Keith Black]

 You do have lots of bench top surface area. I'm working in a phone booth compared to your bench. 

[ccoyle]

21 hours ago, TBlack said:

It's now time to put my new serving machine together,

 

I received one of those handy serving machines last Christmas and plan to use it for Phoenix's rigging, whenever I get around to that.

[TBlack]

Been awhile, but I've mounted the spritsail yard and the foremast yard. Tackling the bob stays (4). For some reason it was a real challenge. I think I had to do each one 2-3 times. Greg and David in their TTFM and Speedwell books suggest measuring the distance between the deadeye on the bowsprit and the eye on the hull to determine the length of the double stay. I found it easier to thread the deadeyes first and then rig the stay. In any event, that little stage is done.

[TBlack]

Finally finished the rigging to the bowsprit, just a couple of lines to make fast. I had some issues with the stay to the jibboom. The plans call for one, but I couldn't see in Lees or my other references that there is one on this ship. Nevertheless, I rigged it. Now (I'm following Delph's log on Speedy) I'm on to lower shrouds, and, fortunately, the lower masts are not on the ship yet which makes installation easier.

[Keith Black]

Tom, it's good to see you making headway. IMHO rigging the bowsprit is the toughest part of rigging a ship. 

[TBlack]

Keith, I hope you’re right. I don’t mind.telling you, it was a bitch by virtue of my own clumsiness. Anyway, on to wrapping the lower shrouds with my new machine from Chuck!

[TBlack]

I've done the lower fore shrouds. I thought serving them was going to be a challenge inasmuch as the serving thread was so small. But, no, with Chuck's little machine it turns out to be quite simple. That part was easy. Everything else, as always, I seem to have to do 2-3 times to get it right. In setting the upper deadeyes, I used the usual spacer. And that works OK, but Druxey has a different approach that he outlines in his TFFM vol. 4 and his Speedwell book vol. 2 that I think I'll try for the main shrouds. The benefit I'm looking for is a neater appearance of the seizing around the shroud above the deadeyes which can be done off the model. I think before I do that I'll rig the truss pendant on the fore yard, using Toni Levine's excellent tutorial.

[TBlack]

I've tried, desperately, to include pictures of my progress. Not going to happen! Nevertheless, you'll have to take my word for it that I've installed the Jeer block/tye assembly, the truss pendants, futtock staves, catharpins, and finally the fore stays.. I've got a picture or two; they're just not very good, for what it's worth, here they are. Anyway, I'm on to installing the shrouds for the main mast.

[Keith Black]

 Looks very nice, Tom. Good to see a Sophie update.

[TBlack]

Now I've served and rigged the lower main shrouds which will be all the progress for a while, as we are away for a week:

 

[Keith Black]

 Looking good, Tom. Enjoy your away time. 

[TBlack]

in this instalment I've rigged the futtock shrouds and staves for the main mast, the jeer block/tye assembly, and the truss pendants. Anchoring the trusses to the deck is no problem and accomplished. The jeers, however, create a problem. The instructions have them tied off to the bitt in front of the mast. Toni Levine, in her wonderful tutorial, has them treated like the trusses with blocks and hooks to eyes at the bottom of the mast. Haven't decided which way to go yet. In any event, I'm going to rig the gaff next. And the catharpins will follow.

[TBlack]

Chris, what are you doing up so late? Go to bed!

[TBlack]

On the foremast/yard I've rigged the buntlines. Next I want to install the lifts to be able to secure the yard in a horizonal position. I'm using Delph's wonderful log on Speedy as a guide. He points out that the plan shows the lifts through a block on the mast top just ahead of the topmast in such a way that they will foul the topmast stays. He quotes TTFM that the better way is to move the attachment point forward on the top to avoid this. I'll follow his advice. At the same time, fixing the yard will allow me to start sorting out all the lines coming down to the bitt at the base of the foremast.