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Posted

At last count about 40,000 of us. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted (edited)

On the fourth try I've finally gotten this little bugger just right. There isn't a single 90 degree angle in it!

1815221345_counterfinisher.jpg.9dc6871f6ae23d376189d8ec54ab943e.jpg

Now I need to fix the location of the waterline and the wale which is guided by the picture:

photo.jpg.588a7c79a2ca4b293cf6ad3adbd69a26.jpg

 

At the same time, I'm looking at where the quarterdeck bulwark meets the transom, carrying that line downward, and it looks like the outboard window is outboard of the hull line. Any thoughts?

Tom

Edited by TBlack
Posted

Also, if you notice in the photo, above, the main mast shrouds are attached to the black strake, and the wale is immediately below. Speedy's wale looks like this:

1768357033_waleline.JPG.6fc9ff9a6aee7c539b66472962735a2b.JPG

Significant difference. Also notice that the wale in HMS Sophie follows the waterline along the after part of the ship. I need to do some drafting.

Tom

Posted (edited)

 She appears awfully low in the water and heavy seas would see waves sharing the Captain's table? 

 

 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

I'm just thinking out loud here, but it helps to clear my head. The gun port pattern, provided in the kit, sweeps upward toward the rear:

1799702264_stbdgunportpattern.jpg.7d518c5b519fa23875a8b3d339990bc3.jpg

On the Sophie there is less sheer at the aft end (see photo in post #33), so I think I need to cut the pattern just aft of gun port 6 which is also where the quarterdeck starts. I hate making these irreversible decisions; maybe I'll sleep on it.

Posted

 Tom, don't you have to fit the piece you made in post #33 first and that will then dictate the shear? Trying to be of help but doing a dang poor job of it I'm sure. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Keith,

Here's how that piece fits:

393831801_counterpattern.jpg.a0571d2817fabb6e025e9e8a71f492c5.jpg

Ideally, the bottom of the pattern should be along the bottom of the counter piece. Moving the pattern down, lowers the gun port, #6, at the far right too close to the main deck. So I can't move anything forward of gun 6. I don't care about gun port #7; it gets covered up (gun 7 is on the quarterdeck). Cutting the pattern aft of gun 6 is ok; it just means I have to cut planking stock the same thickness as the pattern, no problem. The tricky part is getting the new sheer line smoothly executed.

Posted

 Tom, understood and I see/understand how the piece fits now, thank you. I figured #7 was dead. Is the piece you made wide enough? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted (edited)

Keith,

I think the piece is wider than in the picture, but I didn't want too much of the transom ends sticking out from the hull:

2027419096_transonvs.patterns.jpg.418aa58d5f33ab8b7df4be0b1787fff7.jpg

 

With reference to the picture (post 33) where the quarterdeck bulwark meets the transom, from that point on the transom, drawing a line straight down, that line crosses the window (#2 in from the outboard side) about 1/4 to 1/2 of the width of that window. As you can see from the photo above I've got the bulwarks hitting the corner of the outboard window. So, I'm making the transom wider than in the picture, but, as I mentioned, I don't want too much transom ends out there flapping in the breeze. It looks unsightly.

Edited by TBlack
Posted

 Tom, I'm not suggesting anything, I'm merely trying to follow along. The windows you have drawn on the transom, does that represent sash and glass? Does the distance between windows represent counter timber width or finished mullion  width? Can you decrease the distance between the windows allowing the transom to be narrower if that's something you're trying to achieve? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Hi Keith,

The windows I've drawn, above, include the sash. Yes, I could make the space between the windows smaller, but then the whole transom would not be as wide. That would fix my issue of not too much transom  sticking out from the hull (think Fair American). But then it would really depart from the picture in post 33. Either way I go, I'm wrong! I think I'll just let it be as you see it and plunge onward.

Tom

Posted

Plunge onward, Captain Tom. I'm right behind you with a fresh bag of popcorn. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

With reference to my post #37, dealing with the gun port pattern, I decided to do a little drafting to see the magnitude of the issue:

1097915173_patternalignment.jpg.88a57104d6b3613356f5f964f162c5ec.jpg

Fortunately, I don't have to do any cutting; it's more a question of adding a little bit at the top, and more at the bottom.

Posted

 Tom, you and the family have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. God bless you and yours. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Thanks for that tom   i hope you and your family had a great christmas  and you got plenty of modeling related stuff in your stocking ( i did! ) looking forward to seeing your model progress in the new year .   So happy  and prosperous new year to you and yours   and to anyone else reading this      cheers     sticker

Posted

Holidays over, back to the shop. Making some progress, albeit slowly. I'm trying to get the stern section together and flowing smoothly. I've added the gun port patterns and one hull plank:

33504607_croppedstern.jpg.7ff8167e2450a4351956c853f9e37fa5.jpg

 

Now I'm working on fabricating two of these:

 

 

 

 

804382140_outlineblock.jpg.e64868bc1baf177ea8e6c637b3a51f6a.jpg

 

Happy new year to all!

Tom

Posted

Just found your log. Love your approach.
 

I should like it of all things to learn how you dimension the main yard. 

Have fun. 

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

Posted

First, I am delighted that I've got an audience that is appreciative of my modest efforts. Thank you all for being here. Secondly, I hope Chris Watton doesn't stumble of this log and see how I'm ruining his perfect kit! He'll never sell me another thing!

 

Steve: once I figure out the shape and dimensions of the stern area, I need to go back and reread Master and Commander to see if Aubrey provides any more detail on the rest of Sophie. We know that the "forecastle" is not a raised deck but just an area of the main deck, and that there is an elm tree pump up there as well. Big assumption, but perhaps the main yard is as supplied in the kit?

Tom

Posted

Perhaps it is as supplied in the kit. There is a description of the yard that to Aubrey was too small, so you may be able to judge from that. 

It is clear that Jack disliked the Main yard on Sophie when he first took command of her, and pushed her hard until the spar sprung. He got another from the shipyard, maybe a spare foretopgallent yard from a ship of the line, but alas the yard master said ‘It will never do, Captain Aubrey,’ called Mr Brown, hailing over the quiet evening air through his trumpet. ‘It is far too large and will certainly carry away. You must saw off the yardarms and half the third quarter.’.

 

But among the dimensions Mowett recites to Maturin, the main yard is not included … in fact, Mowett says he will have to measure it. I think we never do find out the final size. 
 

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

Posted

Just a quick follow up and I’ll recede into the background:

 

The original main yard that Aubrey was not satisfied with was described thus:

Jack went to the rail and looked sharply at the sea running by, the long curve as it rose after the hollow under the lee-bow: he grunted and returned to his staring at the mainyard, a piece of wood rather more than thirty feet long and tapering from some seven inches in the slings, the middle part, to three at the yard-arms, the extremities.

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

Posted
1 hour ago, Srodbro said:

Just a quick follow up and I’ll recede into the background:

 

The original main yard that Aubrey was not satisfied with was described thus:

Jack went to the rail and looked sharply at the sea running by, the long curve as it rose after the hollow under the lee-bow: he grunted and returned to his staring at the mainyard, a piece of wood rather more than thirty feet long and tapering from some seven inches in the slings, the middle part, to three at the yard-arms, the extremities.

What was the reason given for his dissatisfaction?

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted

 Having a beam of 30 feet 8 inches, a main yard 30 feet long with a diameter of 7 inches sounds small. Topsail, maybe? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

This is becoming an interesting discussion, because the kit calls for a main yard 202mm long (7.953") and suggests that Cochrane extended it to 220mm (8.66"). In this scale, 1:64, that translates to, in the first instance, 21' and in the second 23'. Now I don't know how I'm going to resolve this issue, but I know that I'm a looong way from having to deal with it.

 

And Steve, please don't recede into the background!

Tom

Posted (edited)

202mm x 64mm = 12,928 = 508.97638 inches = 42.4 feet, which sounds realistic for a beam of 30 feet..

 

 

 

Edited by Gregory

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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