HMB Endeavour by mikec - Eaglemoss

[mikec]

More progress on the Bowsprit. I also added the details like the Copper saddle for the slings. Varnished with satin teak (a combined stain and varnish) added the iron bands, then painted. Needs a coat of satin varnish and cleats to complete.

 

Aging copper

I aged the copper using a solution of oven cleaner, vinegar, lemon and salt.  

 

Firstly you lightly sand the copper to give the solution something to "bite" into, then spray with oven cleaner, add one teaspoon of vinegar, squeeze some lemon juice on and finally sprinkle on a liberal amount of sea salt.

 

Then place in sealed plastic bag and leave for 5hours or more in warming cupboard.

 

Remove from bag and allow to dry, ( I put it in warm oven for minutes) then rinse under cold water. Sometimes you need to repeat, but I have had success 1st time on most occasions.

 

I used this technique on my Victory

Edited July 6, 2014 by mikec

[aliluke]

Everything looks very fine Mike. The curve on the bowsprit is very good but the bumpkin curve beats it hands down. Wow, that must be hard to do.

 

There are other ways to age copper but there don't seem to be many takers for my method...

[aliluke]

Seeing your question about open hearts in other logs...have a look at Blue Ensigns log for Pegasus. I think he answers your question but not sure what page it is on. It is beyond my rigging knowledge at the moment but the open heart would seem right for the style and period of rig on Endeavour.

[mikec]

thanks  Alistair

[shipaholic]

Hi Mike

 

Re your question about the hearts, I couldn't find a definite answer either in my references. Lees in The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War shows closed hearts for that period, the Endeavour replica has closed hearts also - and it is a well researched ship. So I went with closed hearts on my Endeavour.

 

Steve

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Mike, alerted to your Endeavour build by your question on hearts, don't know how I've missed this wonderful build, but glad I've found it now.

 

Love the look of her, excellent scratched  fittings and your work on the stern decoration is impressive.

 

Great build.

 

B.E.

[shipaholic]

Hi Mike

 

Just found the answer to your question. Open hearts are used where the collar is above the jibboom, like on the Victory (pic of My Vic below)

The collars on the Endeavour are not above the jibboom so closed hearts can be used, but they would more likely be open hearts so the jibboom could be slid back if it needed to be.

 

Steve

Edited July 13, 2014 by shipaholic

[mikec]

Thanks B.E. for your kind words. Thanks everyone I will go with how it is doine on the replica. I have started rigging the bowsprit I served the rope by adapting Chucks modelshipways ropewalk.  takes about 20 minutes to make a 30cm length. Does anyone supply made up served rope?

 

I also had a bit of fun, with photoshop using my model hull against the replica. a useful exercise, as it illustrates that the shape is pretty much spot on.

Edited July 14, 2014 by mikec

[aliluke]

Hi Mike

That Photoshop play is very clever. Shows that you should be truly proud of your hull. Plus you don't need to rig it now .

Edited July 14, 2014 by aliluke

[Captain Slog]

Hi Mike,

 

Very impressive photo shopping.  The two model ones in the choppy sea look great!

 

Cheers

Slog

[BANYAN]

Hi Mike, I don't know how I missed this.  Started likes only to realise  I was right at the start - so jumped to the end.  That is a very nice build mate and looks great in the photoshop you have done - jest need to had some photoshoped figures and you'd swear it was the real thing

 

cheers

 

Pat

[mikec]

working on rigging for bow sprit. served stropps and made hearts using Chucks 3 piece sandwhich method as used on deadeyes. Here is poor photo, will post better pics tomorrow

[Blue Ensign]

A very nice bit of serving and stropping Mike, and I very much like the colour toning you're getting on your build.

 

B.E.

[mikec]

Thanks B.E. I am using a stain colour "Kowhai" (named after our native NZ tree that has a yellow flower). The stain has a nice subtle yellow tinge (not sure if this is available overseas). For the masts and spars I am using a wattle product: "all in one"stain and varnish "teak"

the picks posted a pretty close to how she appears .

Edited July 21, 2014 by mikec

[mikec]

here are better pics of my hand served collars

[aliluke]

Hi Mike

They look superb.

 

When you say "hand served" what do you mean? Most here seem to use serving machines to do this. How do you do it by hand?

Edited July 22, 2014 by aliluke

[mikec]

Hi everyone, I have finished rigging the lowerpart of the bowsprit and have stepped and added gammoning. fitted like a glove. i am very happy...

[fishface]

wow is all I can say. Your attention to detail and patience are inspirational

[mikec]

Rainy day in Auckland today so I happily finished rigging the lower part of the Bowsprit (bobstay and stays)

 

[Blue Ensign]

Those close-up shots show the excellence of your rope work Mike, you're doing a great job.

 

A point of curiosity, I note you have  used 'untarred'  rope for the Gammoning; I've always understood that as part of the Standing Rigging this would be tarred?

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[mikec]

Hi B. E. thanks for the kind words. Re the gammoning- I am glad you bought this up, you are right I normally would have used dark rope for the gammoning but was thrown by the shots of the replica with lighter coloured rope (see attached) for gammoning that I was going to replicate. i am unsure wether to do this or go black. what do you think?

[Blue Ensign]

I think that probably is tarred rope but salt stained and faded, hence the greyish look.

 

Could you perhaps stain it in situ to avoid having to do the job over, but it's really down to your good self as to whether it bothers you that much or not.

 

B.E.

[mikec]

Thanks B.E. I can and will stain it in situ, an easy job. Thanks for the imput.

[RGL]

Great job on the bumpkins. I've never seen any reference to a gasket to hold the end of the anchor stock like in the replica's photo! I used black cord for the gammoning on mine but yours looks good, I reckon you should keep it.

[Ian B]

:( :( :(  makes my bowsprit look a mere 'pointy stick'  LOL!!!!!! I can't wait to incorporate some of your ideas into my next build... keep the detailed pictures coming,

[aliluke]

Hi Mike

I'd be tarred on the gammoning myself.

 

I'm intrigued by how you bent the bumpkins. Is it by a jig - wet the dowel and then dry in a forced bend? Or do you shape to the bend from a much larger piece? I'm trying to edge bend some 1.5mm thick walnut for my waist cap rails at the moment and find it wants to revert to being straight. I edge bend it, dry it and a few days later it is more or less straight again...the wood seems to have a memory.

[mikec]

Thanks for all your praise and help.

Aliluke, re the bumkins : this was done by using a jig made of nails with a 0.5 thick piece of brass bent to shape and inserted between the wood and the nails to prevent denting the wood. The secret is to use a piece of dowel that is 3 or 4 times the length and slightly larger diameter than needed. This allows you to bend quite severely and achieve that inverted bend at the foot of the bumpkin.

I soak the wood for twenty minutes in boiling water then apply to jig with the "S" bend in the middle of the wood .I preheat the oven to 180 degrees. Then turn it off. Place the jig and wood assembly to dry in the oven. When dry cut the bent section that you need and sand to shape. I use a combined satin Matt and stain varnish. Do this asap the shellac has a hrd shell that seals the shape.hope this is easy to understand. Warning:obtain permission to use oven from"she who must be obeyed" first!

Edited August 4, 2014 by mikec

[aliluke]

Thanks Mike

That is very clear and similar (except for the brass strip) to the technique I'm using for the cap rails.

[RGL]

Whilst mine is nowhere near as good, I used a plank bender on square stock, crimped it to shape and sanded it round.

[mikec]

Hi, although I havn't made any post for a while I have been quite busy doing little details on the hull. Finished the rudder bridge, horse, added eyebolts and blocks to the hull and commenced work on the anchors. Also realised that i hadn't put on the chained eyebolts to the channels. These were scratch built, and were a devil of a job to attach inbetween the shroud dead eye chains. Note to self: put these on first then add the dead eye chains.

The end result was pleasing though.

 

here are some pics....