Proxxon Router Bits

[DaveBaxt]

Hello all. I am looking for a router 90 deg Vee bit to fit my Proxxon milling machine.

I have the set of the Proxxon router bits which has a Vee type bit No 29 023

 https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/tools-router-cutters.php

When measuring the angle I have found it to be  less than 90 degs . I have searched throughout the internet for several suppliers here in the UK and all of the router bits I have found so far have 6 mm or 1/4" shanks. which is too large for the collets on the Proxxon milling machine, What is needed is a router bit with a 3.2 mm shank.as is the Proxxon bits but non that will give me a 90 deg Vee.

                               I need this router to make a jig for holding square stock for making masts rather than using dowel. Thank you Best regards Dave

[bruce d]

Dave, this guy on Flea-bay is pretty good:

Items for sale by elliott-grafix | eBay

Can't see that he has 90 degree burrs listed at the moment but it is worth contacting him.

 

HTH

Bruce

[Charles Green]

Doing it in one pass with a 90-deg. mill is convenient but there are other ways.  A flat grind table-saw blade set at 45-deg. will do it in two passes.  If you have a router, there are 90's that will do the same job as the mill, with the work set upside down.  Two planks with 45-deg. chamfers, set edge to edge, will make a 90-deg. groove.

[DaveBaxt]

8 minutes ago, bruce d said:

Dave, this guy on Flea-bay is pretty good:

Items for sale by elliott-grafix | eBay

Can't see that he has 90 degree burrs listed at the moment but it is worth contacting him.

 

HTH

Bruce

Thank you Bruce for the link. I never thought about trying a burr instead of a bit/cutter but I might have to try a burr if I don,t have any joy with the router bits. 

[DaveBaxt]

15 minutes ago, Charles Green said:

Doing it in one pass with a 90-deg. mill is convenient but there are other ways.  A flat grind table-saw blade set at 45-deg. will do it in two passes.  If you have a router, there are 90's that will do the same job as the mill, with the work set upside down.  Two planks with 45-deg. chamfers, set edge to edge, will make a 90-deg. groove.

Some good ideas there thank you . Unfortunately I do not own a router but have a table saw which the blade can be adjusted to 45 degs so could try that. I to  thought about two planks with a 45 deg chamfer but just thought it would be easier if I could get a 90 deg router bit  . So hopefully something will turn up

[Ondras71]

Hello. I carved the guide rail on a FET saw according to Andrej Kudin. 2x 45 degrees, then an octagon is created on it..👌

 

 

[tkay11]

@Ondras71: Thanks very much. Excellent video and ideas. Looks like he modified the Proxxon saw table a bit as well.

 

Tony

[bruce d]

Dave, you have probably already found these but ...

 

Busch Bearing Cutter 90° Burr No 414 - Choose from 0.7 to 5.0mm | eBay

 

Plenty of others, search "burr 90".

After your post I realised this was the way to go for a rebate I need to cut soon, so thanks for raising the subject. 👍

[druxey]

I'm not sure what your application is, but perhaps a custom filed scratch molding scraper might do the trick?

[DaveBaxt]

7 hours ago, tkay11 said:

@Ondras71: Thanks very much. Excellent video and ideas. Looks like he modified the Proxxon saw table a bit as well.

 

Tony

Thank you Ondras71  for the video and probably a really good way of cutting a 90 deg groove and will bear that i mind, Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

8 hours ago, bruce d said:

Dave, you have probably already found these but ...

 

Busch Bearing Cutter 90° Burr No 414 - Choose from 0.7 to 5.0mm | eBay

 

Plenty of others, search "burr 90".

After your post I realised this was the way to go for a rebate I need to cut soon, so thanks for raising the subject. 👍

Bruce thanks for the link. If I can't get my hands on a router bit then this is probably something  I will go for. However it does not state what the shank diameter is.   I will therefore try and ask the supplier and see what he comes up with.Hopefully I will get an answer. If you already have one, perhaps you could let me know the shank size. Best regards Dave

Edited January 25, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

6 hours ago, druxey said:

I'm not sure what your application is, but perhaps a custom filed scratch molding scraper might do the trick?

Thank you druxey for giving me another way of doing this and can also look into this. Best regards Dave

[bruce d]

Shank = 3/32nd inch I believe, please check though.

[DaveBaxt]

7 hours ago, bruce d said:

Shank = 3/32nd inch I believe, please check though. My conversion makes that 2.38 mm which is smaller than what I need but should do the job. If they fit a Dremmel theu will fit my miller. I am assuming they are strong enough for the job. Thank you again for your help best regards Dave

 

Edited January 25, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

I would just like to thank every one for giving me different ideas on how to make some 90 deg grooves. I have managed to make something using My Proxxon FET table saw which wasn,t straight forward as I thought due to change the angle of the rotary cutter the scale on the front made it useless so I just has to measure using a square and vernier caliper . So not 100% perfect but not too bad but could do with going over some of the grooves with a flat chisel.

             It is my intention to try the other methods and compare my results. I need to get my hands on a decent chisel set including the one mentioned by druxey . I have also oredered rotary burr tool to see what sort of results I get with that. . Here is a few photos of the work I produced on my FET table saw.

They still need a bit of work with chisel and sanding. Best regards Dave

 

I used some old oak strips I was given so not the easiest to cut so not sure if I had the correct cutter for the job . 

           

Edited January 25, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[Charles Green]

When set at 45-deg., a circular sawblade made for rip or crosscuts will not leave a clean "V" at the bottom of a 90-deg. groove.  Slotting blades, having a flat grind, which are made for full-size saws, leave a flat-bottomed slot.  But I don't think a flat-grind blade is made for any hobby saw. 

 

You could finish the "V" slot you have made to a clean, sharp "V" with a slotting blade made for metal work.  These blades have very fine teeth without set.  On wood, they will burn if used for anything but shallow cuts, but they do leave a flat-bottomed slot. 

 

In your application though, I would think a common blade made for wood would be OK.  After trimming and rounding your masts and spars has begun, the stock will not contact the very bottom of the "V".  A clean bottom of the "V" isn't necessary.   

 

And you ought to try orienting the wood so you cut with the grain.  Use a course-tooth, rip-blade. Things will go easier.  

[Jaager]

I checked Rio Grande  and they sell a 90 degree  Hart  carbide  burr    3/32" / 2.38mm   shank.

Head size ranges from 0.9mm to 2.3mm.

The mfg is a German company  Busch.   They must have vendors on the right side of the Atlantic as well as the left side.

On your side -perhaps in a metric friendly shank.

 

[DaveBaxt]

11 hours ago, Charles Green said:

When set at 45-deg., a circular sawblade made for rip or crosscuts will not leave a clean "V" at the bottom of a 90-deg. groove.  Slotting blades, having a flat grind, which are made for full-size saws, leave a flat-bottomed slot.  But I don't think a flat-grind blade is made for any hobby saw. 

 

You could finish the "V" slot you have made to a clean, sharp "V" with a slotting blade made for metal work.  These blades have very fine teeth without set.  On wood, they will burn if used for anything but shallow cuts, but they do leave a flat-bottomed slot. 

 

In your application though, I would think a common blade made for wood would be OK.  After trimming and rounding your masts and spars has begun, the stock will not contact the very bottom of the "V".  A clean bottom of the "V" isn't necessary.   

 

And you ought to try orienting the wood so you cut with the grain.  Use a course-tooth, rip-blade. Things will go easier.  

I have thought about I f I was to try this again , I thought about drilling a hole on the other face at the apex of the "V" before machining the groove or I could just machine the bottom of the gtoove using a miller but I now get what you mean. Thank you for your input ,it is greatly appreciated. Best regards Dave

Edited January 26, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

10 hours ago, Jaager said:

I checked Rio Grande  and they sell a 90 degree  Hart  carbide  burr    3/32" / 2.38mm   shank.

Head size ranges from 0.9mm to 2.3mm.

The mfg is a German company  Busch.   They must have vendors on the right side of the Atlantic as well as the left side.

On your side -perhaps in a metric friendly shank.

 

Yes I have ordered one thank you. Best regards Dave.

[Charles Green]

DaveBaxt: 

 

I may be beating this topic to death, but early on you mentioned difficulty setting the fence, since its scale only registers correctly when the blade is at 90-deg.  To make a 90-deg. "V" slot along the center of a blank with a table saw:

 

The sides of the blank that will be parallel to the groove must be just that; parallel.  Each end of the blank must measure exactly the same. 

 

Calculate the center distance for the blank's end and set an adjustable square for that distance.  Measure/check from each side on both ends.  The end of the square must hit the same place when measured from either side on both ends.  If it doesn't, you are not on center and/or, the blank's sides are not parallel.  Mark one end, top to bottom, along this exact center.  Use a marking knife, or something like it.

 

With the blade at 45-deg., set the fence so the top corner of the blade is on the center line.  The height of the blade's top corner must be at the desired depth of the slot.

 

Make the cut.

 

Turn the blank around and make the 2nd cut.

 

While cutting, horizontal and vertical pressure against the blank must be identical for each cut.  The feed speed must not vary.  A feather-board will help to maintain uniform horizontal pressure.  

[bricklayer]

You can remove the rounded bottom of the V-groove by cutting a slot in the bottom of the V. The V turns into a Y, then.

Source of image  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V-block#/media/File:V-block_steel.jpg

 

[DaveBaxt]

16 hours ago, Charles Green said:

DaveBaxt: 

 

I may be beating this topic to death, but early on you mentioned difficulty setting the fence, since its scale only registers correctly when the blade is at 90-deg.  To make a 90-deg. "V" slot along the center of a blank with a table saw:

 

The sides of the blank that will be parallel to the groove must be just that; parallel.  Each end of the blank must measure exactly the same. 

 

Calculate the center distance for the blank's end and set an adjustable square for that distance.  Measure/check from each side on both ends.  The end of the square must hit the same place when measured from either side on both ends.  If it doesn't, you are not on center and/or, the blank's sides are not parallel.  Mark one end, top to bottom, along this exact center.  Use a marking knife, or something like it.

 

With the blade at 45-deg., set the fence so the top corner of the blade is on the center line.  The height of the blade's top corner must be at the desired depth of the slot.

 

Make the cut.

 

Turn the blank around and make the 2nd cut.

 

While cutting, horizontal and vertical pressure against the blank must be identical for each cut.  The feed speed must not vary.  A feather-board will help to maintain uniform horizontal pressure.  

Thank you for the above. I think I get your meaning and I ended up trying something similar, So perhaps I wasn,t accurate enough with measuring the blocks and I did each one seperately and may not have applied  the same pressure on each block. It may have been esier if I made individual blocks instead of grouping them all together. I don,t think the 45 deg setting was bang on either.I ended up cutting a groove in the bottom of each slot using a miller.I clearly need to have more practice at using my Proxxon FET table saw as there are probably no end of different applications. 

 

                Again I would like to thank everyone for time and patience. Best regards Dave

Edited January 27, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

I apologise for adding more questions to this thread and sorry if this question has been asked elsewhere. When using a Proxxon FET table saw for cutting 45 deg slots I am getting quite a bit of burn. I have tried a medium cutter wheel and a low teeth cutter which has a cutting edge on the side too. Even when cutting at 0 degs I am still getting some chatter,I think its called. Is this purely down to cutting to0 large (20 mm ) a piece of oak , which I think is a very hard wood.Perhaps its just too much for the machine or should I use a different cutting wheel, perhaps with more smaller teeth. I am hoping if anyone has experience with cutting oak or using a Proxxon FET saw. Best regards Dave

[bruce d]

Dave, the 20mm oak is probably the problem.

May I suggest two things?

First, try the same cut on a piece of softwood of similar thickness and see whathappens; second, if 20mm oak is required for your project, try making the cut in several passes by setting up the blade at a shallow height, say 6 or 7mm and raise  it a little after each pass. 

This is the way I cut a mitre on iroko when I had a FET.

HTH

Bruce 

[Gregory]

6 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

I have tried a medium cutter wheel and a low teeth cutter

Not sure I recognize what blades you are using.

 

You might check out something like this from Amazon UK, which I believe will work on the FET..

 

Silverline 876132 TCT Mini Saw Blade 85 mm Dia - 10 mm Bore - 20T

[DaveBaxt]

3 hours ago, bruce d said:

Dave, the 20mm oak is probably the problem.

May I suggest two things?

First, try the same cut on a piece of softwood of similar thickness and see whathappens; second, if 20mm oak is required for your project, try making the cut in several passes by setting up the blade at a shallow height, say 6 or 7mm and raise  it a little after each pass. 

This is the way I cut a mitre on iroko when I had a FET.

HTH

Bruce 

Thank you Bruce.Thank you for your prompt reply and coming up with a possible solution. Its obvious that I need a lot of practice in the use of this machine and trying your idea might be a solution. The oak was just a give away by a plumber who thought it might be useful. I have other woods at hand such as bass wood. Its is my intention to try lime wood for my masts but eventually thinking of moving onto box wood but the postage fr

om Europe to the UK is very expensive. So need to wait until I know how much I need, hence using the lime as a trial run, plus I need the practice.

Thank you one again for your time and patience. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

13 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Not sure I recognize what blades you are using.

 

You might check out something like this from Amazon UK, which I believe will work on the FET..

 

Silverline 876132 TCT Mini Saw Blade 85 mm Dia - 10 mm Bore - 20T

Thank you Gregory I will give this a try. I could do with a few more spares anyway and that is so much less expensive than the Proxxon equivalent.. Best regards Dave

[Gregory]

I should mention, that blade has a relatively large kerf, and will not be good for thin strips..  Too much waste.

[bruce d]

Dave, I have watched with interest the different ways people make masts. If you want to compare before committing to a process, why not post a thread 'Best wood to use for masts?'. I would expect a lively response (and if you don't want to post such a thread, I will in a couple of months when my project reaches that stage 😁).

 

In the meantime, these guys are good:

Timberline Decorative and Specialist Hardwoods | Tonewoods | Guitar Making (exotichardwoods.co.uk)

They usually have good stocks of Castello in different thicknesses. If you don't find what you want on the website give them a phone call, not all stock is listed.

[bruce d]

BTW, when I had the FET I made a spacer/adapter to allow use of thin slitting saws (because I had some sitting around) and they gave a very good result on Castello and other not-too-hard woods.