Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by tlee01 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale

[tlee01]

On to build number three.  I have read through the instructions a couple of times and have gone through the numerous build logs here and around the internet and hope I don’t get too frustrated.

I have been trying to figure out my color scheme since it looks like I will be painting/staining areas that are hard to get to after certain parts have been completed.  So, I am looking at a white boat with blue trim similar to the how the pram was built.  I am thinking for the deck a light golden oak and the interior seats maybe darker stain like Mahogany or Chestnut.

 

 

I am thinking of doing some kit bashing, but don’t know right now how extensive it will be.  I like doing these starter kits because it introduces you into some neat stuff and is not overwelming   

[ccoyle]

There are still plenty of smacks serving as pleasure craft these days, so be sure to do an internet search to get additional ideas for finishes.

[SkiBee]

@tlee01 there is a lot of work to build and plank the hull to do before you need to paint anything.  Good luck, take your time, have patience and have FUN.

[tlee01]

Wow, this is a wee bit of a challenge, between the guide mentioning the wrong sheets and some really thin material.  I was warned reading other people logs, I was confidant that I could do this without breaking any.  Nope I was humbled, not once but twice. 

I did pretty good bending the hook by annealing the brass as instructed. For the pram I got the wire loop pliers and they made this easy.

I started making the adjustments like everyone said needed to be done then snap I was humbled again.  I might breakdown and see about getting a scalpel, but I have to much fear on that one.

 

 

 
To get away from snapping I decided to paint the centerboard, then call it quits for the night.
 

[bobandlucy]

Gary, go ahead and get the scalpel, you won't regret it. Being able to cut with less applied pressure will free your attention and make your cuts more precise.

 

And it does not hurt as much when you cut yourself!

 

Bob

[tlee01]

It’s been a successful week or so in the workshop.  I decided to go with a dark blue for the centerboard and painted it before I glued the spline together.  After numerous adjustments the centerboard moves up and down free and clear and the spine is complete.  I used almost every clamp I had but things turned out pretty nice.

 

 

 

I did a belt and suspenders solution to the brass swivel point and not only hammered the ends into rivet heads I glued one side the head to the spline.  I just did the one, and only a small spot since brass and basswood expand and contract at different rates, I figured just a “tack” should help.

I braced some of the areas where I had breaks during construction of the spine just for support.  I also followed @bobandlucy advise and ordered some disposable scalpels for some of the finer work and they should be in this week some time.

 

 

I had seen on ebay a Mantua Strip Clamp and Hull Vise cheap and had bought it when I first starting building ships and decided to try it out.  It was a little hard to adjust, but when I got the spine secure, I can see the advantage of using something like this clamp.

 

After getting the bulkheads dry fit on the spine, again some sanding of the slots and a few shims are required to get the frame complete.  Reading through several build logs really helped to avoid some frustrating problems.  In the beginning I thought some of these manufacturing mistake should have been adjusted, with some of the problem areas. But my thinking began to change that by leaving some of the problem areas it helps me to improve my skills.

Next up was the cockpit area.  I knew from the pram that it would be easier to finish some of the harder to reach areas so I decided my color scheme. After a night down the internet rabbit hole I came up with a concept. I had decided the hull was going to be blue and white but I wanted something different for the deck and cockpit.  So, I decided the deck would be a pecan stain and the seats would be chestnut. I like the look of the light stain for the deck and the chestnut look like a nice contrast.  The walls of the cockpit will be white.

 

I added a strip of molding where the deck meets the bulkhead since I had a gap showing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next on to bulkhead 10. Looking down the frame I saw that the bulkhead need adjustment. In both height and angle.  After some really frustrating detail sanding and adjusting I seemed to get the angle somewhat correct and the height somewhat correct.  Then some test fits with the deck and more adjustments and I overdid it with the tope of the spine I had to add a filler piece to have full contact between the deck and the spine.

 

 

In gluing the deck, I started with the middle, once the glue set, I started on the aft.  Wetting the deck, then clamping it into place with rubber bands and allowing it to dry.  The glue and repeat on the stern, when both sides were glued in place, I allowed it to sit over night then filled the joints, now on to flaring the hull.  It looks like the front will need some extra sanding.  There is also a minor problem where the deck meets at the rear near the cockpit.  The level is off I need to figure out a support without interfering with the rudder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Off to sand!!!   But first it time for the super bowl party.
 

[tlee01]

The week had ups and downs.  The keel went down well, then the task of fairing the hull.  Several of the bulkheads extended past the deck so there was lots of sanding.

 

 

I had the ship placed upside down in my vase clamped to on of the bulkheads and everything went well till I was working on garboard on one section of my work bench and turned and heard a crack.  I had backed up and bumped the model and crash it hit the floor.

 

 

 

Minor setback just some repair and clamping and back to new.

 

 

Next up was setting the garboard which went surprising well.  Even the first to strakes went well, but I hit the third and have been having dickens of a time with the hard curve and twist at the aft.  I am not happy with how it came out and it looks like wood fill is in my future.   
 

[SkiBee]

Been there done that, it is amazing what putty will cover up.  It really is looking great.

[bobandlucy]

I have done this also. In fact my current model ended up on the floor a couple of days ago, but luckily my floor is carpeted! Your repair looks good.

 

Bob

[tlee01]

It’s been a very interesting and frustrating couple of weeks and I have learned more about fairing and planking and know I have much more to learn.

 

First up the bow.

 

1)      Fitting the strake into the bow rabbit will need much more detail in my next models.  Where the “false keels” meet the keel.  I did not angle the rabbit so the strake would fit in tightly, also I should have beveled the end of the strake so it would fit flush.

 

2)      I need to pay more attention to how the strake fits home, several had a space between the false keel and the beginning of the strake.

 

3)      I have to figure out a better clamping means.  I was leaving dents in the strake, while I could get most of it out with water and rubbing the area for have the wood spring back.  I still had to use filler.

 

 

Next the area around the rudder.

 

1)      This was a pain in the you know what.  I ended up with a dent that I read about in other build logs, where strake no 3 and 4 meet at the keel.  I could not figure out how to make a smooth transition. 

 

2)      I got it as close as I could then ended up cutting out a piece out wood out of scrap to fit where the rudder’s rod goes and using filler to make the transition.

 

 

The transom

 

 

1)      I had a few trials at the transom.  It looks like I have a slight twist at the stern and one side of the transom is higher than the other.  I did not see this till the end of planking and took the model off of the vice.  I must look at all angles of the model during the build.  Everything looked good but I guess it was not.

 

2)      I had problems with one end of the sheer strake not quite lining up so I needed some additional filler.

 

Lower planking

 

 

1)      I need to lengthen the witness lines for where the planking is to line up before fairing.  On bulkhead #9 I lost the lines completely on one side.  I find mistakes like this helpful, since I am working on my skills with this model, I found out how useful these lines are.

 

2)      David discusses the planking creep and I found all about that.  I came to the sheer strake and found on the bow end I had a 3/16 gap and the stern the strake stuck up 1/8”.  I learned how to seam spline and while it took patience it worked.

 

When done I thought what a horrible job I did, however the magic of filler and sanding I am getting close to something that is acceptable.  My led work lamp works great as a raking light and I keep finding dents and areas that still need to be taken care of.  As they say strive for progress not perfection.

 

 

Some questions I have:

 

1)      Should I stain the deck next and paint hull before moving on.  I plan on having the toe rail stained and am worried that my taping skills are just not there yet.

 

 

2)      Also, the same with the rub rail.

 

3)      I am wondering should I wet sand the model.  I saw on @Skibee log that he did it and I liked how it looked.    

[druxey]

Well, you are learning a lot on this model! Basswood is not a good candidate for wet sanding nor stain. Other model-makers have found this out the hard way. If you want to experiment, by all means do, but try out any new treatment on scrap first rather than your model.

[SkiBee]

I wet sanded between coats of paint, also I used a stain preconditioner before staining. I agree with druxey, try your stain on excess wood before committing to staining your boat

[tlee01]

Finally, back in the workshop.  Mom took a turn for the worst and it’s been a process getting her in hospice and getting her affairs in order.  She has had a great run and at the age of 93 she has made peace, unfortunately its just a matter of time. 

So, on my last post I had finished filling, sanding and the first primer coat.  More filling and sanding, then another coat of primer and it was ready for painting.  I am still not happy with the hull, still some depressions when you at it at certain light. 

I decided to try to paint the pieces before I glue them on and have found it takes some additional planning but it keeps me looking ahead to see what need to be done and how it fits together.

I taped off the hull where the rub rails go prior to painting the hull, then painted the rub rail before placing it, the same with the toe rail and glued the fairleads onto it than painted the toe rail.  The drain slots on both sides, I filed the areas before I glued the toe rail down.  It takes longer but it does look cleaner.

I had a twist on the port side toe rail that made gluing it down a pain, but slowly I got it installed. 

I really did not like the way the supplied samson post looked and fit I found a piece of 3/16” x 3/16” scrape and made one that seams to fit on the deck.

Time to try to bend the cockpit coaming. 
 

 

 

[bobandlucy]

Sorry to hear about your Mom. May be inevitable but it's still hard.

 

Boat looks good- I like your color scheme. I think it's the first for this model I've seen with a contrasting color on the rub rail.

 

Bob

[tlee01]

Work continues on the smack.  I went off script and decided to do some kit bashing.  I was at my local hobby lobby (I am spending to much time there) and picked up some basswood strips to make the hatches and miscellaneous things.

The two small hatches were built with a 1/8 x 1/16 frame with 1/16 slats.  I round the corners and had two hatches.
The frame around the center board I used the 1/8 x 1/16 and framed out the slots.

The hatch area was a little more difficult.  I used false front and built a slide frame for the hatch.  When I installed the false front, I had to add some trim strips, I still need work on making sure the frame is straight and square.  When dry fitting the hatch and false front I did not like how things were mating up, so I trimmed the top of the false front and made a filler piece to fit the frame and all went well. 

The cabin roof was painted and installed it on the boat.  I notice the front looked a little bare so I made a blue accent strip and installed it on the front cabin wall.

I installed the two top rails and top hatch.  The rails were angled slightly so some sanding on the sides and it turned out well.

I really liked this kit bashing it brings uniqueness to the model I am building.  But it does take longer and sometimes more frustrating.
Next up are the Trail boards, bowsprit and rudder.

 

 

[druxey]

That is coming along splendidly! I like the freelance touches you've added.

[bobandlucy]

Very Nice! I like the accent piece at cabin front, and you did much better with the roof than I did. I found that rigging this one is fun and I'm sure you'll enjoy it too.

[ccoyle]

20 hours ago, druxey said:

I like the freelance touches you've added.

 

Indeed. Many of these classic workboats or their descendants are still active as pleasure craft, which means they can be updated or personalized in just about any fashion. I plan to modernize the heck out of my Tancook whaler, if I ever get around to it.

[GGibson]

Love the color scheme! Sharp! 

[Mike Collier]

I just started this kit too and I started off the same by using the wrong side. Thought something wasn’t right when the printing on the wood was on the inside. I tried to unglue it with alcohol but it warped bad and then broke . I emailed Model Expo and they are going to send me replacement parts free. I need to look more carefully. I will keep working on the model by working on the sails and masts.

[tlee01]

Finally, back in the model room after a long summer, knee replacement, family issues, etc.  

I have realize having something to take you mind off things really helps and work on my boats puts me in a great frame of mine.

So, a couple of things:

I got my Proxxon drill press setup and man does this help.  I have added a sanding spindle which have made things so much better.  Using the drill press make for much more actuate work.  Making the chainplates were really easy with the press.  I cleaned them up then lacquered each to keep them looking clean.  Now time to make the nails.

The hatches I felt needed a handle so I made some from some 28-gauge wire.

Found out when you have a drop of blue paint on white, do not use alcohol.  This set me back awhile, but that what the beginners’ models are for.

I took a look at the blocks that were supplied and they needed really needed help, I thought there might be easier way.  So, I did some research and saw a sanding tumbler made by Olha Batchvarov on YouTube that required the use of drill in a type of lined can. I then thought about maybe using a rock tumbler, I could line the inside of the tumbler with sand paper and just let it run in the background.  Amazon is my friend and I found a cheap rock tumbler ($49.99), lined the tumbler with 120 grit sand paper using 3M Feathering Disc Adhesive and I now had a cheap sander.  Now its not whisper quite but it is tolerable.  I have taken the rollers apart greased what I could, it has cheap bearing from China and I could spend some money and make it better, great another project.  

Two days in the tumbler on level two and they came out well, the grooves needed to be deepened and I used a thinned ebony stain which turned out well.  Even after the stained dried it did come off on my fingers when I was forming the copper around the block.  A quick layer of lacquer to solve the problem.  

I used the Proxxon with a router bit on the base and like how that turned out.  Did have a “glue area” show up around the posts after staining.  Sanding and reapplying the satin worked, although my feathering in needs to be worked on.

Time for the mast. Jib and sails then running the lines.  

 

 

 

 

[GGibson]

This looks REALLY good!  Love how you have put some additional touches on it, making it "your own".  And I agree with Bob, the rigging on this one is fun.  I think as the instructions suggest, though, I did most of it with the mast off the boat, laying on a flat surface.

 

Hope the knee replacement went well!  I had both knees replaced at the same time back in 2012, and they are doing great.  Just stick with whatever rehab you have left, it pays off.  And, finally... I love Olha Batchvarov's YouTube videos.  They are inspiring!

[SkiBee]

Love the extra detail like the grab handles.  Great work

Just recovering from my 2nd knee replacement, your end results depend on how good you are at doing your PT.

[tlee01]

Been a while, but I finally finished the smack.  I got really frustrated with the sails, started out well but then the battens started separating and the more I tried to correct it the worst I got.  I finally finished with CA which held but I have “shiny areas” where the CA is.

I really like the rigging portion of the build and look forward do doing more,  I went with rope from Syren Ship Model, Chuck makes great rope and his delivery time is really good.  (might be I live in PA and he is in NJ).  I also purchased his serving machine and did a little serving on the ends of the stays. I went with a tan rope and served the ends with black.  After a few tries I got the hang of it.

Overall I learned a lot from this build. 

  
First and foremost read the guide and research about the build.  I was really unclear about how portions of the rigging went.  It took reading numerous logs and even readings from the library about how boats were rigged.

Also I would have spaced the upper block of the throat halyard, higher.  I don’t know if it was my stropping the blocks and having a larger hook and hoop but looking at the geometry, it does not work right.  I assumed that the spacing was right, which it could have been and I screwed up, but it showed me that I should always look at the big picture, when also detailing with the small.

The kit bashing was fun and it makes learn new skills, which is why I continue on with the builds.

So what's the next build.  I purchase both the Armed Longboat and USN Picket Boat, both for different reasons.  On the longboat I want to work my planking and rigging and on the Picket I **** to work on my detail work, all before I start the Cheerful.  I flipped a coin and it looks like the longboat.

 

Photo 1 - Sails laid out ready to start rigging

 

Photo 2 - Serving Machine up and running

 

Photo 3 - Making rope coils

 

Photo 4 - She done

 

Picture 5 - Cockpit

 

Picture 6 - Cockpit

 

Photo 7 - Upper Rigging

Photo 8 - Upper Rigging

 

Photo 9 - Mast area

 

Photo 10 - Jib

 

Photo 11 - Main Sail

 

Photo 12 - Final Berth w/ Pram

 

Photo 13 - On to the next build.

Edited December 25, 2022 by tlee01

[ccoyle]

Very nice work, and congratulations on your finished model!

[bobandlucy]

Looks great, Gary. Look forward to the next one.

 

Bob

[druxey]

Well done. Every model is a learning experience, no matter how many years we’ve been at it. I’m sure your next model will benefit from this one.