Cutty Sark by bcochran - Revell - 1/96 - PLASTIC

[bcochran]

8 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

I'm not sure...I think Fine Scale Modeler drew their images from a website I no longer use for the image capture.  What images in particular are you seeking?

 

Rob

I was hoping to see more of your model.  I could pick up pointers I'm sure.

[rwiederrich]

1 hour ago, bcochran said:

I was hoping to see more of your model.  I could pick up pointers I'm sure.

I look through my pics.  Here is a scale comparison between the Cutty and my new Glory of the Seas.  Amazing size difference.  960 tons compared to 2100 tons.  This is an old CS I built 25 years ago.  
 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

My latest version.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 22, 2022 by rwiederrich

[bcochran]

I added the starboard bow stanchions. They are not the same size as the stern stanchions, but I'll live with them. I had to counter sink them into the rail.  I don't like the cathead sticking out there like that. I hope I don't break it off.

[bcochran]

1 hour ago, rwiederrich said:

My latest version.

 

 

 

 

Beautiful.  I hope I get that far along.

[bcochran]

15 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

I look through my pics.  Here is a scale comparison between the Cutty and my new Glory of the Seas.  Amazing size difference.  960 tons compared to 2100 tons.  This is an old CS I built 25 years ago.  
 

Rob

Great work.  Gives one inspiration.

[robdurant]

2 minutes ago, bcochran said:

I don't like the cathead sticking out there like that.

 

They're very vulnerable aren't they... I've been trying to work out how to add them to my model at just the right moment without breaking them off. The bits of paper to make them more visible are ingenious, though. You're doing a beautiful job of this kit.

[rwiederrich]

6 minutes ago, bcochran said:

I added the starboard bow stanchions. They are not the same size as the stern stanchions, but I'll live with them. I had to counter sink them into the rail.  I don't like the cathead sticking out there like that. I hope I don't break it off.

Those *Whiskers* are problematic for sure.  I made a base with vertical poles in front of them to prevent me from bumping them.

 

Rob

[LeoM]

According to Wolfram Zu Mondfeld, deadeyes should be 6 mm on 1:96 scale, but Longridge mentions 1/4 inch for the big ones and 3/16 for the smaller ones, which translates to 1/8 inch (3,2 mm) and 3/32 (2,4 mm) so your order seems to be perfect. According to my NWM plans the big ones should be close to 3,8 mm and the others and 2,8 mm for my 1:78 scale. I am not yet there to start rigging but installing the lower deadeyes will be fun, I expect.

Did I already tell you fantastic you Cutty Sark looks? 😉

[bcochran]

The deck at this point.  Next I need to finish the white panels on the bulwarks and the hull decorations.  Then begin the pin rails and deadeyes.  The mainmast is only temporarily stepped.

Edited April 24, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

On 4/22/2022 at 1:45 PM, LeoM said:

According to Wolfram Zu Mondfeld, deadeyes should be 6 mm on 1:96 scale, but Longridge mentions 1/4 inch for the big ones and 3/16 for the smaller ones, which translates to 1/8 inch (3,2 mm) and 3/32 (2,4 mm) so your order seems to be perfect. According to my NWM plans the big ones should be close to 3,8 mm and the others and 2,8 mm for my 1:78 scale. I am not yet there to start rigging but installing the lower deadeyes will be fun, I expect.

Did I already tell you fantastic you Cutty Sark looks? 😉

Thank you. What size thread and what composition (linen, silk, cotton ?) would you use to rig the dead eyes of my size? I am just learning about rigging. I am reading Harold A. Underhill's book "Masting and Rigging."  In the article about the building of revell's Cutty Sark in Model Ship Builder Jan/Feb 1986, the author rigged the deadeyes off the ship because of their position next to the bulwarks. I might try that.

[LeoM]

According Longridge, one should use half-round 1/16" brass wire, which should be 1/32" (gauge 20) for your Revell kit. For me this translates to 1 mm, but that does not correspond to my dead-eyes of 3.5mm dia.

I intended to use round wire of 0.5 mm, so I am a bit at loss what to do, the more that I have some nice pictures pushing me to the half-round wire option. Question remains: how to close the half-round wire?

[bcochran]

White panels on the starboard bulwark,

Edited April 25, 2022 by bcochran

[shipman]

Are you aware of the book by Noel Hackney?

Though it relates to the smaller Airfix kit it's a well written step by step guide on how to build and rig.

The basic principles will translate to the Revell kit, especially the methodical rigging tutorial.

Just translate any specified sizes and dimensions to what you need.

It's so easy to get bogged down with research. This book will guide you every step of the way without numbing the brain.

Of course things can be done better, but this will give a convincing representation of what you're after.

Well worth getting your hands on a copy.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  'Thinking about scale, and 1:96 is 'close enough' to 1:100 to make math easier.  The builder's specs fro the Cutty note (I believe) 9 1/4" deadeyes (the larger ones), so if one uses 10" (again to make the math easier), that would be about 254mm at full size ... so at 1:100 scale one would use 2 1/2mm deadeyes - and presumably 2mm for the backstays?  Did I figure right?  So many suppliers use mm, so I'll work many accessories in metric.  'Guess using 3 1/2 mm (large deadeyes) and 2 1/2mm for the back stays is not going too far off strict scale - and easier to work with.  

 

  Scale gets to be more of a problem going to 1:120 (Woody Joe Susquehanna) or 1:125 (Sergal Thermopylae), as scale deadeyes would be a mere 2mm.  A 6" (150mm) block would be only 1.25mm ... kinda hard to strop.  So the Sergal kit provides larger stuff to make it manageable to rig - their photo is kind-of cute with the larger blocks and deadeyes, but any other aspects of building in the smaller scale are challenging as Popeye attests.  

[bcochran]

I drilled holes in the pin rail for the deadeye strops. These holes will be used to drill holes in the waterway.  The strops will have a long wire end which will be glued to the waterway and the pin rail.

 

I used the kit deadeyes to mark where the holes should be drilled.  I am experimenting with a deadeye.

Edited April 26, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

18 hours ago, shipman said:

Are you aware of the book by Noel Hackney?

Though it relates to the smaller Airfix kit it's a well written step by step guide on how to build and rig.

The basic principles will translate to the Revell kit, especially the methodical rigging tutorial.

Just translate any specified sizes and dimensions to what you need.

It's so easy to get bogged down with research. This book will guide you every step of the way without numbing the brain.

Of course things can be done better, but this will give a convincing representation of what you're after.

Well worth getting your hands on a copy.

I have his book. I am reading Underhill's "Masting and Rigging" to get a basic understanding of standing and running rigging.

[rwiederrich]

Your doing a fantastic job for sure.  I bet you had to drill very slow to make those holes in the pin rails for the deadeye braces?  I almost opted to do the same on my last Cutty build 15 years ago, but opted to let that detail go, as it would become invisible once the rigging was in place.  Pick and choose your battles...I guess.

 

Wonderful work.

 

Rob

Edited April 26, 2022 by rwiederrich

[bcochran]

33 minutes ago, rwiederrich said:

Tour doing a fantastic job for sure.  I bet you had to drill very slow to make those holes in the pin rails for the deadeye braces?  I almost opted to do the same on my last Cutty build 15 years ago, but opted to let that detail go, as it would become invisible once the rigging was in place.  Pick and choose your battles...I guess.

 

Wonderful work.

 

Rob

I use a pin vice and slowly drill the hole.  The thing that is touchy for me is to not break the belaying pins off.

[rwiederrich]

2 hours ago, bcochran said:

I use a pin vice and slowly drill the hole.  The thing that is touchy for me is to not break the belaying pins off.

Indeed...and those belay pins are actually. very much out of scale...but if you are not prepared to replace everyone with scale ones then, make-em work.😁

 

Rob

Edited April 26, 2022 by rwiederrich

[shipman]

Are you sure that's a deadeye?

 

looks like a gingerbread man to me😎

[rwiederrich]

Stropped deadeye looks good.

 

You could pre bend the wire...paint it white..then finish up with the twist and then touch up.

 

So the stropping can be white.  Unless you have some other plan.  White coated wire?

 

Rob

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

7 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Your doing a fantastic job for sure.  I bet you had to drill very slow to make those holes in the pin rails for the deadeye braces?  I almost opted to do the same on my last Cutty build 15 years ago, but opted to let that detail go, as it would become invisible once the rigging was in place.  Pick and choose your battles...I guess.

 

Wonderful work.

 

Rob

  Rob,  I read an account of a builder who had some of the 'as molded' belaying pins on the 1:96 Cutty break off ... 'don't know if age can make them more prone to this - but UV exposure can do it to plastic parts.  His advice was to cut them off, then drill holes in the pin rail to accept scale brass belaying pins that are turned long enough to belay lines well.  I'm absorbing everything I can from ALL the fine builds of this kit before doing anything on the Thermie (which needs additional work to make it closer to the original than Revell managed).  I'm at the beginning off retirement - so am not worried too much at taking plenty of time to mull everything over before starting.  'Course the reaper could come for me at any time (as with those of any age) - but if the object is to satisfy myself with whatever is done, there's no point in fretting over what 'might happen'.

[bcochran]

3 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Stropped deadeye looks good.

 

You could pre bend the wire...paint it white..then finish up with the twist and then touch up.

 

So the stropping can be white.  Unless you have some other plan.  White coated wire?

 

Rob

I ordered some white floral wire.  It will take a few days to get here. I am not sure if it will work.  I was going to blacken the deadeyes with a magic marker.

Edited April 26, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

4 hours ago, shipman said:

Are you sure that's a deadeye?

 

looks like a gingerbread man to me😎

They are little ginger bread deadeyes so that if I get tired doing this I can eat them all.

[bcochran]

This experiential deadeye was colored with a white paint pen and a sharpy.

[rwiederrich]

Wonderful detail.  One reason why I didn't strop my deadeyes with braces through the pin rail...is you just can't see all the work you put into it...and then when you apply the numerous rope coils on the belaying pins in front of the deadeye braces....well...you see what I mean.

 

Great job by the way.

 

Rob

[bcochran]

Starboard pin rails

Edited April 28, 2022 by bcochran

[rwiederrich]

Looks very nice and clean...great job.

 

Rob

[bcochran]

Shipman,

 

In Noel C. L. Hackney's book on page 35 about making eyebolts, he says "with 3/4 inch rod formed to a 2 1/4 inch hole and 1 inch rod formed to a 4 3/4 inch hole".  What in the H E Double Hockey Sticks does that mean?  Is he talking about actual 1 to 1 scale, or is it some magical 1:168 Airfix scale measurement?

 

Later he says to bend 40 SWG wire round a 1/64 inch drill  for the small ones and bend 38 SWG wire round a 1/32 inch drill for the large.

 

Of what useful information is his first description of what to do?

 

What ever, how big are the eyebolts that he is telling you to make?  This makes no sense to me.

 

I bought some model railroad HO lift rings on eBay to use for making jackstays. The seller said they were 2 1/4 inch size. I ignored that because it made no sense, I know what size HO lift rings are, so I bought a ton of them.  I got them, and they are more like N Gauge lift rings. I sent them back as unusable for my purposes.

 

Why do these people use such meaningless information?  What I need to know is the size of the actual eyebolt I am buying not what 1 to 1 scale size they are.

Edited April 28, 2022 by bcochran