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Posted

My current Ballahoo build has a lot more knot tying than my previous boats.  I am to the point now where the ropes for the carronades and all the rigging are my main focus.  What knots are appropriate, for example, when tying simple knots to eyebolts?  Should the knots used be similar to what would have actually been used on the ships? 

 

In doing some of the initial knots on the eyebolts for the carronades, I've just done some simple double overhand knots and hit them with diluted glue.  Would using, perhaps, a halyard hitch be a more accurate knot for tying on rings and eyebolts?  Granted, some of these knots would be a bit more challenging at our scale level, using tweezers and magnifying glasses to assist with the line feeds, than on actual ships.

 

Appreciate the advice and education.

Gregg

Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

 Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin     Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    USS Constitution 1:76 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways        Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways 

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft                             RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (May now never get to it)

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways

Posted

Hi Greg,

 

 I’m certainly not the expert, but I tied all my lines with whipping, just like the real thing. No line is just tied in a knot to an eyelet. I mean I guess you could if you wanted to. There are tons of examples here on the forum about any and all aspects of rigging and how to do it.

 

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

Posted (edited)

Hi Gregg

Couple drawings below that may help.  The first is a contemporary drawing from the Royal Academy library. The second is redrawn from Dupin's Voyages dans la Grande Bretagne and can be found on page 205 of Caruana's English Sea Ordnance volume 2.   Hope this gives you a little help.  Allan

 

322318838_Carronaderigging1.thumb.JPG.6e4f36b493b93959bbe174693d59d4c1.JPG1148222572_Carronaderigging2.JPG.029991a43412214d0caa11e4d4e425e8.JPG

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

I have a video tutorial on sezings. He got me making them successfully in a few minutes. I can now do them now on the model without tools, just takes some practice.

 

 

Posted

Thanks for posting the video.  The video is very clear and shows an old but still very effective method used by many members.    It is a shame to see him use what appears to be CA glue after each line is secured.  The result is a brittle join and for tan lines, often a lot of discoloring.  I know there are advocates of super glue, but even many of those that use it for wood, frown on using it on rigging. 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted (edited)

I am one of those advocates of using CA for aspects of building, like planking.  However, I don’t use it for rigging for the reason Allan describes. Diluted white PVA, matte varnish, or clear acrylic paint are much better solutions. Learning to tie a figure 8 seizing will serve you well, it can be used extensively in the rigging stage. A Quad Hands (Amazon) is essential to be able to seize lines easily and effectively. 

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Royal Barge, Medway Long Boat
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Posted

Thanks for all of the feedback/info, fellas!  This shows a bit of my naivete in the model ship building world yet, but I guess I was thinking the seizing was used primarily for deadeyes, and some type of knot was used for things like the eyebolts.  I have done seizings on some deadeyes already, so will continue that practice.  And, yes, I am using diluted PVA to finish.  

 

Thanks again!

Gregg 

Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

 Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin     Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    USS Constitution 1:76 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways        Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways 

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft                             RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (May now never get to it)

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways

Posted

Knots and hitches are only used to temporarly fasten a line. In most cases eye-splices are used or seizings, when the rope would be too stiff to tie a knot or a splice would weaken it (as in the example above of the breech-rope).

 

There are many specialised knots/hitches, but depending on the scale, they may be difficult to tie. In most cases I seem to get away with half- and clove-hitches, if required.

 

A real splice would be a challange at most scales, but fake splices are easy to do.

 

Personally, I prefer a fast-drying clear solvent-based varnish for securing rigging, as it can be easily softened with the solvent, if needed.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

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