Bluenose by Fubarelf - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[GGibson]

It all looks great, Tim!  I'll be working on my soldering practice pretty soon, as well, as I need to do the same work on masts, booms and gaffs.  

 

And, yes, agreed that Model Expo is very good at getting stuff sent out quickly.  My problem, at least for the orders to get to the Kansas City area, Model Expo sends by USPS, and the Post Office is horribly slow.  Tracking shows that it will sit at some interim locations for a day or two before moving to the next Pony Express stop.  <grrr> 

 

Anyways, back to your Bluenose build... been watching it move along, and I'm envious, you're doing awesome work.  Carry on! 

[Fubarelf]

Thank you Gregg!  Your build is coming along very nicely as well.  Really like the deck details you have added.  I have been trying to decide if I want to add barrels and need to figure out the anchors, ropes and chains up around the bow.  

 

Model Expo sent the bras USPS, so hoping it arrive in the next few days.  Really want to be able to work on the chain plates over Thanksgiving weekend while I have some time off.

 

Tim

[GGibson]

Good luck on the chainplates!  If you saw the comment on my build log, I definitely feel I should have cut my holes for the chainplates while I was putting the main rails and monkey rails in.  If you've already got the chainplate slots prepared, you're way ahead of the game, and the chainplates themselves were actually kinda fun to make up. 👍

[Nirvana]

2 hours ago, GGibson said:

And, yes, agreed that Model Expo is very good at getting stuff sent out quickly.  My problem, at least for the orders to get to the Kansas City area, Model Expo sends by USPS, and the Post Office is horribly slow.  Tracking shows that it will sit at some interim locations for a day or two before moving to the next Pony Express stop.  <grrr> 

That is so true, long time ago I ordered items from Model Expo and Cornwall Model Boats in England on the same day. Guess which package showed up first?
It is the shipping agent that is the issue.

[hamilton]

Hi Tim - not sure how I missed this log during my BN build....your work is excellent! Very nice results. I'm always impressed by those who, like you, can pull off such nice metal work at this scale!

hamilton

[Fubarelf]

Thank you Hamilton!  The metal work has definitely been a learning experience and probably explains why I came up short on the kit supplied brass strips. 😬  

 

Tim

[Fubarelf]

After going through the deck plans again to make sure all of the various eyebolts, belaying pins, etc were in place, I realized that I had not made the jumbo jib boom stay.  Another opportunity for soldering practice! 

While the masts were still separate from the hull, I took the opportunity to add the spreader lifts/ratlines to the foremast and the topmast shrouds/ratlines to the main mast.  I seized the shrouds at the mid point then wrapped around the topmast and tied off.  I used tan thread run through the eyes on the spreader bars to create the lanyards and then fed the shroud lines through and tied off.  I used pieces of carbon fiber rod, lashed to the shrouds for the sheer poles. The ratlines were tied with a regular knot on the left side and then a clove hitch on the right.  Once all were tied and lined up, I added a bit of glue to each knot to hold everything in place.

All that remains to add is the chain plates.  The additional brass strips came in from Model Expo, so I have started to make those and should have them finish and installed today.

 

Tim

 

[Fubarelf]

I have completed and installed the chainplates.  I cut the brass strip to the appropriate lengths and then drilled a 1/32 hole through one end of each strip.  I also marked the holes for nails at the other end, but decided to wait to drill them until the deadeyes were attached.

Using the kit supplied copper wire, I wrapped a piece around each deadeye and the fed the ends through the 1/32 hole until the deadeye was snugged up to the strip.  I then bent the wire out to the sides.  I thought this would made a reasonable facsimile of a bolt.

I folded over the short end of brass strip, crimped down with pliers and the soldered.

 I created a jig to drill the remaining holes in the chain plate.  As luck would have it, the blade currently on my saw is the same width as the brass strip.  A shallow pass through a scrap piece of wood provided a channel for the strip.  I drilled out one extra strip with holes per the plan and placed this on top of the chain plate in the slot.  I forgot to take a picture with the chainplate inserted, but below is the jig.

All the chainplates have been installed.

On to the rigging!

 

Tim

 

[CPDDET]

Very innovative!

[GGibson]

Nice work, Tim! Chainplates came out looking great.  Will watch your rigging with increased interest.  All that is in front of me... 

[Fubarelf]

Masts installed!  This marks completion of the build, with the exception of a few minor details still to be added.  

Getting a start on the rigging.   I started with the foremast shrouds, then stopped, when I was not happy with the results using the supplied rigging line.  I am OK with the supplied black line for the shrouds, but the tan just wasn't working for the deadeye lanyards.  The smallest diameter line was too small and the next size up fit, but did not look well defined, as the thread wind is pretty loose.  The line isn't pulled snug in the photo below, but the look didn't improve much even when it was.

I went to Syreneshipmodel.com and ordered two sizes of their tan rope, .012 and .018.  The .018 worked perfectly and what a difference in quality!  Syrene on the left and kit rope on the right.

I cut lengths of the .018 black line and seized the middle, where it wraps around the mast and the ends, where the deadeye are seized in.  Once the seizing thread is tied on, I put a little diluted white glue on the shroud line the length of the seized section.  This secures the thread and, as I am winding, the little dot of white helps to show the progress of the wrapping.  It can be hard to see with the back on black and I think it helps to avoid any gaps in the seizing.

Shrouds attached and lanyards threaded through the deadeyes and tied off.

I used the same carbon fiber rod for the sheer pole as on the upper shrouds.  Started on the ratlines.  

Tim

[Fubarelf]

Finished up the Ratlines on the foremast shrouds.

On to the mainmast...  I followed the same process of seizing the shrouds in the middle, where they wrap around the mast, and on the ends, to wrap around deadeyes.  Once the shrouds were seized to the mast I started to attach the deadeyes.  I did this a little differently than on the foremast.  

 

For the foremast I threaded the lanyards through the deadeyes and then wrapped and seized the shroud to the upper deadeye.  For the main mast, I used a wire to space the deadeyes and then wrapped and seized the shroud.  Once that was completed for all the shrouds, I threaded the lanyards through each pair of deadeyes and tied off.  Both ways worked pretty well, but it was easier to thread the lanyards and maintain consistent spacing with the method I used for the mainmast, as I was able to tie them of as soon as they were threaded vs leaving them loose and waiting until I had attached the shroud to the top deadeye.

On to the ratlines...

 

Tim

 

 

Edited December 22, 2023 by Fubarelf
Delete duplicate picture

[Fubarelf]

Finished up the ratlines on the main mast.  

Didn't get much else done on the Bluenose over the holidays other that a few detail touch ups, as I was waiting on more rope to come in from Ropes Of Scale.  The stays and bowsprit rigging line sizes were not close to what is supplied in the kit and I did not want to use the same size line for everything.  Once the line came in I got to working on the bowsprit rigging.

 

I created turnbuckles using 1/32 brass tubbing and 1/64 brass wire.  The brass wire fit perfectly into the tubbing and I used solder to secure the wire.  After the wire was secured, I bent and shaped the hooks on either end.  These seem to be pretty close to scale.

I blackened the turnbuckles and attached them to the bowsprit.

I threaded and seized the lines to the turnbuckles and then ran the lines to the bobstay plates and guy plates and seized them in place.  Still have the add the back rope and foot rope and stirrups to finish up.

 

Tim

 

 

 

[Nirvana]

Tim, that looks really good!

My Bluenose is at a standstill.

[hamilton]

nice work on the bowsprit rigging! She's looking really nice.

hamilton

[Fubarelf]

1 hour ago, Nirvana said:

Tim, that looks really good!

My Bluenose is at a standstill.

Thank you, Nirvana!

[Fubarelf]

58 minutes ago, hamilton said:

nice work on the bowsprit rigging! She's looking really nice.

hamilton

Thank you, Hamilton!

[Fubarelf]

Finished up the standing rigging over the weekend!  This was quite a process, as I redid several of the lines (some multiple times) not liking how they turned out (too tight, too loose, I didn't like the way it looked, etc).  Hopefully I have learned enough from the standing rigging work to limit the number of redos on the running rigging

I ordered the 3 clamp ;helping hands from Micromark.  I used fuel tubbing from my R/C stash for extra grip on lines and to keep the clamp teeth from digging into the blocks. This will be a huge help as I get more into rigging blocks for the running rigging.

Tim

 

[ccoyle]

I like the gripper pads idea -- gonna have to copy that one.

[Nirvana]

Just now, ccoyle said:

I like the gripper pads idea -- gonna have to copy that one.

Me too, have had the problems with squished or damaged items.

 

[GGibson]

Nice work on the standing rigging, Tim!  Looks really good.

 

And, good thinking on using the R/C fuel tubing for the clip covers!  I bought a bunch of clip covers from Amazon for like $5.00.  I'm finding they get a little gunky with glue, etc. after a bit, so I replace them as needed.  The tubing idea, though, is great.  Keep the extra tubing handy just in case!

 

Your Bluenose is shaping up very well, sir! Carry on! 

[Fubarelf]

2 hours ago, GGibson said:

Nice work on the standing rigging, Tim!  Looks really good.

 

And, good thinking on using the R/C fuel tubing for the clip covers!  I bought a bunch of clip covers from Amazon for like $5.00.  I'm finding they get a little gunky with glue, etc. after a bit, so I replace them as needed.  The tubing idea, though, is great.  Keep the extra tubing handy just in case!

 

Your Bluenose is shaping up very well, sir! Carry on! 

Thank you Gregg!  I use the fuel tubing as a cushioned grip on xacto knife handles as well. 

[Fubarelf]

Made some progress on the rigging.  The helping hands are indispensable for working on the blocks and there a bunch to do with the running rigging.

 

I created a quick "loop form", for lack of a better name, using some rigging line and a toothpick.  One end of the line is glued on the toothpick to keep it in place and the other has a loop, hardened with CA that I can slip on and off to position it once the block is held in one of the clamps.  Once that is in place I can tie the seizing line in-between the clamp and the toothpick, which leaves a perfectly sized loop on the end of the block.

After the loop is seized, I remove the block, wrap and glue the loose ends around the end, and then cut the line flush with the corner of the block.

As a break from the blocks, I added the marker lights to the forward shrouds and the star to the bow.  

Next I started rigging out the main boom.  I added the foot ropes and then moved on to the boom crutch tackle.  There are a lot of blocks and lines in a small space at the stern.  I have everything tied to the appropriate belaying pin or to a bitt, but nothing is permanent at this point.  I need to snug thinks up and want to think through adding the sail before I lock everything in.

Finished up with the topping lift.  Looking at the remaining main boom rigging, the rest will wait until after the main sail is added. 

Tim

 

 

[GGibson]

Love the "loop form" process using the helping hands, Tim! May have to steal that idea on my Bluenose rigging.

 

It all looks great. Congrats on some nice-looking rigging.

[Fubarelf]

17 hours ago, GGibson said:

Love the "loop form" process using the helping hands, Tim! May have to steal that idea on my Bluenose rigging.

 

It all looks great. Congrats on some nice-looking rigging.

Thank you Gregg. Probably other ways to form the loop, but it’s working pretty well for me.  
I went back and looked at my pictures of the boom tackle and noticed one of my blocks is backward. Ugh!  Good thing I didn’t glue everything down. 

[Fubarelf]

On to the sails!  I started with the main sail, since I have the main boom rigged and can't really go any further without the sail.  I started by tracing the main sail from the plans.  I added "wings" (don't know the technical term) arrant the edges of the sail which will be folded over to create the hem around the perimeter of the sail and drew in the reefing strips and the seems that were on the plans.

I pinned the tracing to the sail fabric and cut it out with a cutting wheel.  Next I folded and ironed the wings and pinned the hem for sewing.  

I did not get any pictures of the sewing process.  I used a zigzag stitch for the hem.  Next I ran straight stitches along the length of the sail for the panel lines and then used a high zigzag in two lines across the sail for the reefing strips.  I finished up by tying the reefing rope on both sides of the sail along the reefing strip.  It's been a long time since taking Home Ec. in high school, but it sure did come in handy on this project.

Once the silk was complete I lashed it tot he user gaff and the main beam and the finished up the rigging.  

 

One down, 7 more to go!!

 

Tim

 

 

Edited March 17 by Fubarelf
Delete duplicate picture.

[CPDDET]

Nice work!

[Fubarelf]

Finished creating the rest of the sails!  I redid the jib sail because I stretched it too tight while sewing and had a bow in the long side.  Learned from this and allowed the sewing machine to just pull the material through.  The rest of the sails went pretty quickly once I had the routine down.

I have learned the hard way to really study the plans BEFORE starting to rig a sail.  I rigged the main topsail next and started by tying the sail to the mast hoops in the same fashion as the main sail.  I ran thread through the edge of the sail, evenly spaced for the 13 mast hoops, and then tied to each of the hoops starting from the top down.  Here is where the "study the plans" part comes in...  Did not catch that the was a clew line on this sail until after I had all of the mast hoops tied on.  I did not want to redo that, so I figured out how I was going to add the clew line and did that with the sail on the mast.

 

I looked at the build by Suburban Ship Modeler for reference, but the way he attached fairleads to the sail was just not working for me.  I did use the brass tubing as he had but I tied on by running thread through the cut piece of tubing and the sail and then tied one more time around the tubing to secure it.  I added a single, 1/8 block at the mid and bottom points and then threaded the line through.  Will be ding this off ship for the fore topsail.

With the clew line, there are four line that have to be rigged and the tied off at belaying pins.  Two to the starboard rail, one to the port rail and one to the port side of the fife rail.  I finished them all off with coils tied to the belaying pin.

Finished sail.  

Tim

 

[GGibson]

Great sail work, Tim!  and I love the rope coils next to the belaying pins! Sharp looking! 

 

A question on your picture just before your "Finished Sail" text, the one with the single block right next to the fife rail.  Where is that rigging going up to on the mast?  Not seeing this in the Sheet 5 or Sheet 6 Rigging details, but am overlooking it, I am sure.

[wmherbert]

I'm a fan of sails on a model. Yours are looking good. 

 Also nice rope coils.

Bill