HMS Bounty by Peter6172 - Amati - 1/60

[Peter6172]

Well its time for a new build now that ENDEAVOUR is ostensibly complete.
My next choice of kit still had to have an Australian flavour so I chose the BOUNTY. Choosing which BOUNTY to buld came down to what I could afford and what was available. I considered the Artesania version but was not keen paying for a single sided planking and open side with interior. I also stumbled upon a sale for Amarti BOUNTY's through Premier Models in the UK so I ordered one and it arrived safe and sound.
I was surprised on opening the box at the difference in quality between the Artesania and Amarti kits. The Amarti materials appear and feel much better quality and the use of timber rather than ply for the keel, stem and stern posts, channels etc means one don't have t find a way to mask exposed ply ends. The ply stock itself also appears better quality with far les tear-our/delamination that the artesania material did. I also like the Amarti rigging (blocks, deadheyes, hearts, and parrels parts as these too are timber and not laser cut ply. I also like the Amarti threads even though I would prefer scale rope but it appears that this build may be a commission and will be an out of the box build.
So lets get to work:

FRAMING:
Thank heavens for DAVOSHIPMODELLER on YouTube. He has a playlist for the construction of the Amarti BOUNTY and the identification of kit issues starts at the pre-framing stage.
The first big is the location of the Mizzen and the implication that notching the false keel has with the location of Frame 13. The most effective solution is to notch out Fame 13 and then adjust the length of the Mizzen mast down the track. The other main issue is the shape of the false keel stem support and the reinforcing parts on either side. They do not match the plan nor the shape of the laser cut timber stem. Best to fix now before any assembly take place.
Other changes made also follow the DAVOSHIPMODLLER experience including cutting out sections in the frames between Frame 11 and 13 and also Frame 14 and 16 to permit planked decks to be installed should one wish to have open hatched on the main deck.

[gjdale]

Well, after your success in the prizes at the CMSS this weekend Peter, I’m expecting a top notch build from you. I’m certainly in for following along. Looks like you’re off to a great start.

[Peter6172]

Team, Today was a continuation of the initial framing. The lower deck between frames 14-16 had to be lowered as it was too shallow to be realistic so I did that with a 5mm chisel and followed up with a 25mm sanding disk before fitting the lower deck.  

Before fitting the main deck, its necessary to fair the top of the frames. There is a little bit of work forward but a lot of sanding between frames 12 and 16 due to the slope of the aft deck and Frame 16 and the square cut nature of the frames themselves. I did the initial work with a mini wood plane before getting to fairing by hand with a sanding block.

Now its time to fit the main deck. Relatively simple task of applying glue to all top surfaces, aligning the deck then drilling and nailing. I would be using trenails but my 0.7mm drill broken the materials too hard for the bamboo in a 0.6mm hole. I have ordered replacement 0.7mm bits so will remove nailsandreplace with trenails when the glues has dried.

Also visible is the preliminary hull fairing and the king plank (wanted to make sure I didn't forget it this time).

[Rokket]

Off to a good start, looking good. Both interesting subjects. You'll have to do a "Bligh Jolly boat" to go along with it...

[allanyed]

2 hours ago, Rokket said:

Bligh Jolly boat

Peter,

If the launch in the kit is not up to your liking, feel free to email me.  My Email addy is in my profile.  

Allan

[Peter6172]

Have spent the day making up 0.7mm and 1.0mm trenails.  I would like to make smaller trenails but I have been unable to get Jim and Byrnes Model Machines to respond to my order or emails.  I do hope he is alright...

[gjdale]

Peter,

 

Have you tried sending Jim a PM through the forum? Sometimes he appears to have problems with his email system, but he monitors the Forum, so would likely pick up a PM.

 

Jim's screen name here is jimbyr

 

.. and I note that he was last on the site 10 hours ago...

 

Edited September 22, 2022 by gjdale

[Peter6172]

21 hours ago, gjdale said:

Peter,

 

Have you tried sending Jim a PM through the forum? Sometimes he appears to have problems with his email system, but he monitors the Forum, so would likely pick up a PM.

 

Jim's screen name here is jimbyr

 

.. and I note that he was last on the site 10 hours ago...

 

Thanks Grant.  Donna has now responded, They are continuing to have email issues.....

US$25 for the draw plate and US$44.50 for postage but I still purchased it as its difficult getting a quality draw plate for under AUD$150.

Edited September 23, 2022 by Peter6172

[gjdale]

Glad to hear it worked out for you Peter. The postage hurts now, but you'll forget that as soon as you start using the tool!

[Peter6172]

Well I had to burn two planks but get the rig right to cut a 3.5mm plank with the 0.6mm offset on my cheap Chinese mini table saw. (only because I thought Byrnes Model Machines didn't want to talk to me.  Now I know it's an email issue,  I'll be shopping a BMM when this one breaks).

 

These 3.5mm planks bend far better than the original 6mm planks and of corse are more prototypical as BOUNTY had 3 x 6in planks, 5.5 x 12in Wales, and a single 4.5 x 24in strake immediately above the wales.

[Peter6172]

Finished blocking in the stern and changing the shape of frame 16 (would have been easier before installation but one doesn't always pick up these issues early). I have also blocked in where the bulwark stanchions are going to be installed

[Peter6172]

nitial fairing of the fill has been done but I am still not sure I am happy with the shape of the stern. I think I will have to fit some cutwater planks to see how the hull planks flow from the deadwood to the cutwater.

I have to say that those Dremel sanding disk wheels certainly cut down the work on shaping/fairing. I used them on my Ryobi R18RT; just forgot to wear a face mask.....

I won't be fitting any bulwark stanchions until I get the stern shape right...

[Peter6172]

Finally got back to BOUNTY after spending some time on a 1/64 scratch build of NORFOLK (the colonial sloop that Bass and Flinders explored/mapped the SE coast of Australia and circumnavigated Tasmania on).  I wanted to test the fitting of Bulwark stanchions then planking instead of using thin ply and second planking per the Amati kit.

 

This also permitted me to utilise the off cuts from cutting down the 6mm to 3.5mm planks to plank NORFOLK

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

    Seeing your pictures makes me think that one could carve a hull from a block of basswood (or start with the solid pre-form hull found in old kits from Scientific), add stanchions as desired then plank the solid hull ... perhaps a viable way to go after all.

 

Johnny

[Peter6172]

12 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

    Seeing your pictures makes me think that one could carve a hull from a block of basswood (or start with the solid pre-form hull found in old kits from Scientific), add stanchions as desired then plank the solid hull ... perhaps a viable way to go after all.

 

Johnny

Perhaps, but then there's all the carving out to make the lower decks which would be visible through the deck gratings.  Its also simpler to fit balsa and follow the lines of the bulkheads.

[Peter6172]

Mmm, having some difficulties trying to fit stanchions etc.  The Amati kit says 1/60 but comparing it to the AOS- BOUNTY, its actually on 1/60 in beam.  Length and height are 1/52 while the transom etched decorations scale around 1:45 which is probably why the finished models I have seen have such a 'fat ****" appearance.  I may have to completely scratch build the transom to get the proportions correct.  A little disappointing that such details are so far out of scale as the book has been found for some time (or have the AOS authors got it wrong?)

[Peter6172]

Progress is still being made on BOUNTY.  I have just about finished all the stanchions and bollards on the STBD side and all the stanchions on the PORT side.  I have also started planking the transom.  Won't be long before the first hull plank is laid starting with the sheer plank.

NORFOLK has just been matt Varnished: still wet which is why she's a little shiny.

[Peter6172]

Planking of BOUNTY is well underway with the transom completed, the sheer strakes installed and the first 5 rows of planks.  2 more rows plus the 5 rows of bulwark planks to be done still.  As I am getting close to the whales, they have been bent and will get a soak in Japan Black stain.  

 

I will sand the sheer, 7 rows of planks plus the Bulwark planks before installing the whales.

[Peter6172]

I have placed a temporary hold on BOUNTY works as I examine a couple of disposed of HMS GREYHOUND partial builds to see that can be done with them.

 

Image 1 is the work in progress from a previously partial planked hull.  Had to remove planks and decks and a couple of bulkheads and start over with a new scratch built deck.  A twisted false keel required a sturdy build frame.

 

Image 2 shows the progress of Hull 1 against the previous owners planked Hull 2.  I considered cutting everything off along the main deck but the hull retains the unmodified Bulkeads 9, 10 and 11 and has the appearance of an early pregnancy.  I think that one will go to the bin.

[harlequin]

ah Greyhound...takes me back to my build.

[Peter6172]

BOUNTY has been planked to the whales and given preliminary sanding and a coat of sanding sealer.

[Peter6172]

Working on the BOUNTY's channels while contemplating GREYHOUND's next steps. The kit supplies two top mounted wood knees for each channel, however AOS shows undercount angle brackets lined up with each of the ring bolts so that's what I am attempting.

I used 0.5mm hard brass wire for the eyes and the rings and 1/32 x 1/16 brass strap for the brackets. Its a little tedious but if its authentic to prototype then needs must.

[Peter6172]

First whale installed both sides.  Whales have been stained with Japan Black.  Unfortunately the wood is so dense it didn't stack in so I will have to touch up after sanding.   The topside planks are still awaiting their post sanding sealer sand.

[Peter6172]

Work on BOUNTY is stilll progressing (slowly). The second whale is in on the Starboard side but it needed an awful amount of sanding. Th ePort side second whale is being steamed and bent a little differently to put in a compound curve to simulate a spiled plank - a bit difficult to photograph while clamped up but I will see how it comes up after clamping

[Peter6172]

Not happy with the lie of the second whale and how much material I had to remove to fair it so I cut out the bow section and spiled in a new plank.  Fits much nicer.

 

By the way, when I say smile I mean steam and bend the plank on a curved former but also bend it in two planes to mimic a spiled plank as demonstrated with th next plank to go in under the whale.  I do have to add additional clamping to assure the plank lies flat the full length of the former.

Edited December 5, 2022 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

Have started tapering the planks now. Four rows below the whale on port and starboard and the garboard and next on the starboard side.  I need to smile the planks now but in the basic of a nice piece of pear from which to cut the spine, I am trying out steam bending in both planes, effectively edge setting to fit the bow profile.  Instead of seeming the planks flat around the form, I am bending them width wise to, then tapering to form the spiled shape, and finally wetting them and using a soldering iron to form the bend around the bow.

Edited December 31, 2022 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

Sorry about the lack of movement here team.  I have been trying to source pear since cutting down the kits planks I am short about 50% of planking.  Pear isn't available in Australia and I have tried a couple of European sources but have had some web issues so I finally had to go to the US (not that there's anything wrong with the US but postage is awful).  

Well Modellers Sawmill is going to fix me up with some pear that I can mill down to the sizes I need but I have to wait my turn in the production line.  Could be a month or so before I get the timber and can finally finish BOUNTY's hull.

[allanyed]

20 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

(not that there's anything wrong with the US but postage is awful).  

You speak the truth.   Even within the US it is spotty most times and can be downright awful during the holidays.    

Allan

[Peter6172]

Work has finally recommenced on BOUNTY with the arrival of more pear timber. I purchased 2mm sheets of pear so I could properly spile the bow planks rather than steam bend and force edge set the planks. I have managed 7 planks below the whales fitted in the bent and edge set manner so 8 and below will be undertaken with proper spiling.

[Bruce Western Australia]

Peter

 

I just received my Bounty kit front the UK and found all of the information was in Italian. Does anyone know of an English translation?

 

Bruce

Western Australua