Vasa By 72Nova - FINISHED - Airfix - PLASTIC

[72Nova]

Thanks Kirill, yes I did and while this may be a gamble for most, I feel confident I can rig this without issues as long as I don't run out of talent...Lol.

Michael D.

[kirill4]

:))) I keep my fingers crossed :)))

Continue to watch your building with constant interest!

It is going to be very nice model!

All the best !

[72Nova]

I finally completed all the decks with the gluing in of the poop deck, up next will the stern and modifying the rudder. As always thank you for stopping by and looking at my unorthodox build sequence. 

 

Michael D.

[fmodajr]

I love the look and feel of the model!

Very nice.

 

Frank

[72Nova]

Thank you Frank. In my efforts to try to modify the stern as close as possible to the real ship I overlooked the Ensign staff configuration, the kit supplied staff has a knee at the base and a corresponding cut out in the deck that the original does not have...arrrrgggg!. I contemplated doing some patch work to the deck and staff but decided to move forward with this arraignment, in the end it will look acceptable. I installed the main stay collar using .063mm line, the main stay will be .088mm line when I reach that point, I believe at scale this stay measures out to 135mm diameter which would put it at .093mm at 1/144 scale, the 1.0mm line just looked too big and I find it looks better visually when the line is slightly undersized.

I also added the sheaves to the insides of the bulwarks. Today's goal will be to finally glue in the stern.

 

Michael D.

 

[kirill4]

Good day Micharel,

On the photo, main stay collar looks too thin compare to the mast tackle pendant? which should be equal to shrouds thickness if I m not mistaken?

But I don't remember the rules for calculating main stay collar thickness... 

and lower main stay collar deadeye ? das it have 4 holes only ? not more? 

This is just visual impression when I see pictures You posted and reality could be very different I know :)))
ps

somewhere I read that on the model we could add approx 30% of thickness to the calculated rigging for better visual effect...? ... I don't know if it works good ... most probably yes, but from other side, when looking at RexSt models, I can't say He follows that rules :))) 

[72Nova]

Hi Krill,

I appreciate your observation, I used .45mm line for the tackle pendants which will be the same as the fore and main shrouds and .35mm for the mizzen shrouds. The fore stay will be .76mm line and .88mm for the main, the stay collar is 3/4 of the stay so I think I'm close with the .63mm collar which is close to 4" in diameter. Here's a mock up of the aforementioned stay sizes I plan to use, given the available scale rope sizes we can only come close. As for the dead eye it measures approx 4mm x 3.5mm and indeed has 4 holes the upper dead eye will be slightly larger with 6 holes, this requires 2 lanyards to rig and those are the 2 lines you see tied to the top of the collar.

 

Michael D.

[kirill4]

Ah! I see that why You used 4 holes for lower deadeye... understood now... I see You used left hand ropes for standing rigging which looks right choice! I like how they looks... right hand ropes for all running I suppose?

[kirill4]

What Do You think how to make loop of stays over mast top? that question still remains enigma for me ... did You see on all ancient pictures with galleons they don't show classical arrangement of the stays loop over masts tops but often shown spliced loop without mouse and often shown two round coils in this area which I still don't understand what is it?

Edited January 6, 2023 by kirill4

[72Nova]

Honestly Kirill I never paid that much attention to which way the scale rope is layed, the stuff I'm using is from Syren, I guess if one really wants to get technical then a rope walk would be the way to go but not for me as I'm fine with the commercially produced stuff. You got me on the double loops on stays as they are clearly smaller diameter ropes and if I remember right you rigged them on your Galleon?, but the first picture there looks to be the mouse on the stays. I know Anderson makes no mention of not using a mouse on the lower and topmast stays.

The stern is in place and will require very little filler at the bottom if any, also had this wild idea about reproducing the flags on tissue paper and was quite surprised how well it work for just a quick test run, I simply taped tissue paper to a sheet of printer paper and ran it through the printer.

 

Michael D.

 

[kirill4]

Good day,

Flags printed on tissue paper looks very nide! So your idea worked pretty good!

Did your print both sides of the flag on tissue and clued them together?

[shipman]

Well done....your flag looks like a flag!

 

Very impressed with how this project is coming along.

Brilliant choice with the 'monotone wood finish'.

[Hubac's Historian]

The flag looks pretty incredible!  This is Silkspan tissue, or Kleenex tissue?

 

As for the fit of the kit parts, I recall that on my first attempt of this model, I was duly impressed by how cleanly it all went together.  I kind of regret chucking it in the garbage, after I realized that the ship topsides were painted red and not blue.  In any case, I have a second kit sitting in the stash.  Your unique approach to painting her, opens up the door of possibilities.

 

Like, maybe it would be fun to do a diorama of the ship 10 years after her sinking as primitive diving bells descend to retrieve her cannons; what state of decay and deliberate deconstruction/destruction would she have been in, by that point?

[72Nova]

Thank you for compliments gentlemen. I just used regular tissue paper and the trick is to tape it as flat/wrinkle free as possible to the printer paper to avoid major blotting/ dark spots, you'll get some that can be touched up or be hidden when furling the flag, also some of it presents a somewhat weathered look that I'm after, not wanting any vibrant colors. After I cut out the flag I seal it with dulcoat lacquer to prevent color bleed when wetting it to shape. 

 

Michael D.

 

[kirill4]

OH YES!!!

Thank You very much for sharing !!!

You got exactly that effect of scaled "naturality"  which I didn't reach when used thermo-transferring photo paper and percale fabric... 

All the Best!!!

That I need in future making flags and armor cloths

Kirill

[72Nova]

Marc I think you should do that diorama it would be interesting, no doubt there was some damage done when they attempted to raise her around that time frame, I believe they have a diorama of her salvage/raising in the museum? Glad you see some usefulness in that technique Kirill and is incredibly easy compared to transferring to fabric and amount of involved in that process, while I was quite pleased with flags the reality even the thinnest fabric out there is overscale even at 1:60 scale.

The rudder is pretty done minus the ropes, trying to produce the gudgeons and pintles at this scale was a challenge, I used .030" rod, tape and 28g brass wire to create them and while not perfect they turned out ok.

 

Michael D.

[Hubac's Historian]

Awesome, Michael - incredible detailing at this very small scale.

[kirill4]

Well done!

[72Nova]

Thank you Marc and Kirill. The rudder install is completed, it is fixed in place by pins inserted through the fake pintles/hinges on either of the rudder ropes and pinned into place. back to work on the masts and capstan.

 

Michael D.

[kirill4]

Ээ...

Michael,

These spots not for rudder ropes... I would advise to check Velde's drawings...

I stepped on the same rake on my model

Edited January 8, 2023 by kirill4

[72Nova]

Kirill, 

Those holes are clearly visible on the original rudder, now according to Fred Hocker there's no evidence on exactly how their rigged since the ropes did survive and his thoughts are they were more than likely secured to the rudder rather then passing through and were led through the cat holes, they also could've been led up through the tiller opening as well. I search for Velde's drawings. Thanks.

Michael D

 

[Waldemar]

 

@72Nova Michael. You will probably hate me, as I have some potentially almost apocalyptic news for you. I can see that you want the model to be as realistic as possible, so the lowest three planks must go all the way to the sternpost end, as in the diagram below (taken from the Vasa monograph). This can be considered a must for a ship built using the shell method. Sorry.

 

 

 

@kirill4 Kiryl, for you I have the task of solving the puzzle of the coils you show in post #159. If you don't solve it within a few days, I will have to use the classic mouse-on-stay solution in my reconstruction of the ship contemporary to Vasa 🙂. Besides many paintings, these coils were simulated in the so-called Peller-model 1603 as in the diagram below, but after all, a rope several centimetres thick cannot be tied in such a tight way as in this diagram...

 

 

 

Edited January 8, 2023 by Waldemar

[Hubac's Historian]

50 minutes ago, Waldemar said:

 

@72Nova Michael. You will probably hate me, as I have some potentially almost apocalyptic news for you. I can see that you want the model to be as realistic as possible, so the lowest three planks must go all the way to the sternpost end, as in the diagram below (taken from the Vasa monograph). This can be considered a must for a ship built using the shell method. Sorry.

 

 

 

@kirill4

 

 

I can appreciate the authenticity of the detail, but this would not bother me, personally.  It also may have been better to mention this earlier.  For me - personally - it wouldn’t be worth the re-work.

[scrubbyj427]

1 hour ago, Waldemar said:

 

@72Nova Michael. You will probably hate me, as I have some potentially almost apocalyptic news for you. I can see that you want the model to be as realistic as possible, so the lowest three planks must go all the way to the sternpost end, as in the diagram below (taken from the Vasa monograph). This can be considered a must for a ship built using the shell method. Sorry.

 

 

 

@kirill4 Kiryl, for you I have the task of solving the puzzle of the coils you show in post #159. If you don't solve it within a few days, I will have to use the classic mouse-on-stay solution in my reconstruction of the ship contemporary to Vasa 🙂. Besides many paintings, these coils were simulated in the so-called Peller-model 1603 as in the diagram below, but after all, a rope several centimetres thick cannot be tied in such a tight way as in this diagram...

 

 

 

@Waldemar where did you find that monograph of Vasa? I have both of Fred Hockers books (that I’m aware of) and have never seen that drawing.

[Waldemar]

 

@scrubbyj427 This is the hefty book shown by Peter in his post #50, now only available as second-hand I think. It is extremely archaeological. Apart from that, there are a great many other works on Vasa of varying value; I show some of them in the photo below. What is missing here are some small, subject-specific monographs produced by the museum.

 

 

 

@Hubac's Historian Marc, it would probably be more convincing if it weren't for the fact that you've been building your model for many years now caring about the smallest metaphorical nail in the process 🙂. But my apologies for not noticing this earlier 🙂.

 

 

[Hubac's Historian]

Well, you got me, there - that is true 😀

[72Nova]

No worries Waldemar, realistically I know I will not be able replicate this even at 80% but this is one mod I could improve upon to make it that much closer and I think it looks ok so far with the hinges still left to do. What's your thoughts on the rudder rope arrangement?

Michael D.

[scrubbyj427]

2 hours ago, Waldemar said:

 

@scrubbyj427 This is the hefty book shown by Peter in his post #50, now only available as second-hand I think. It is extremely archaeological. Apart from that, there are a great many other works on Vasa of varying value; I show some of them in the photo below. What is missing here are some small, subject-specific monographs produced by the museum.

 

 

 

@Hubac's Historian Marc, it would probably be more convincing if it weren't for the fact that you've been building your model for many years now caring about the smallest metaphorical nail in the process 🙂. But my apologies for not noticing this earlier 🙂.

 

 

Hmm I have that book… I better dig it up and sift through it again. 🤔

I would love to properly attempt Vasa again in the future. 

[Waldemar]

 

@scrubbyj427 Take a look at the page 281.

 

 

@72Nova Michael, it is now immediately apparent that the prototype of your model was made using the shell method (à la hollandaise) rather than the skeleton method. Thanks. The other insignificant anachronisms found in probably every reconstruction pale in comparison to this important "detail". And nice, convincing execution. 🙂

 

And Kirill is also vigilant – about rigging. Most practical, of course, are the graphics. Below are a few. Of note are the fixing, or rather entering points of the rudder preventer ropes – close to the tiller holes. And those two small outer circular apertures are sometimes used for boats towing, and sometimes for mooring ropes (on other ships' portraits). All drawings by van de Velde.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Waldemar]

 

And then there is Björn Landström's interpretation from his somewhat outdated but still excellent book The Royal Warship Vasa. The rudder preventer ropes go to the tiller hole. This interpretation may actually be correct, as dedicated apertures for this purpose were not found in the stern of the ship (or they were not yet done before the catastrophe?).

 

 

And there are other valuable books on the Vasa that I forgot to photograph the first time around.

 

 

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by Waldemar