Frigate Diana by RossR - OcCre - 1:85

[RossR]

My shipyard is finally complete.  I posted some pictures in the Shore Leave topic "So Where Do You Do Yours Then (Model Making That Is)".  Next step on my current build involves blackening some brass parts, and my bottle of Birchwood Casey didn't make the move because the cap didn't want to stay on tight.  Now that I have space I might get started on my next model until I get the replacement Brass Black.

 

 

 

[RossR]

I have a quick update on my build.  The yards for the main mast are complete.  These are configured the same as the yards for the foremast only a little longer.  
 

 

now on to the sails.  I have some ideas for making the sails appear to be full from the wind, but I need to do some experimenting to see if I can create the look I am hoping for.  I will keep you posted.  
 

 

[BurgundyModels]

@RossR glad to see you're making progress on this one again. Love your builds, both the Beagle and Diana. I would love to build a Diana, she really is a beautiful subject. Your build logs inspired me to utilize different finishes, i.e. shellac and stains. Following along!

[RossR]

When I first discovered Model Ship World I was finishing my first build.  At that time there was a build log for a model of the Cutty Sark by Bruma.  He made fantastic sails that made his ship appear to be in motion compared to my version of the HMS Beagle with sails that hung rather lifelessly.  I was definitely inspired to create something on my next ship that created a feeling of movement with my sails.  I was very intimidated with the idea of using silkspan, but followed build logs and youtube videos of builders that did interesting things with cloth sails.  Yes I understand the scale issues with cloth sails, but I am trying to create an impression of a real sail under the power of the wind vs an exact scale representation of a sail.  Someday I suspect I will tackle silkspan, but not on this model.  

 

I borrowed from LyleK1 who used tea to color his sails on the HMS Bounty and from Olha Batchvarov who used potato starch to shape her sails.  Unfortunately, Olha didn't give the exact recipe for the boiled potato starch she used, so I am still refining the best mix, but I will share more details when I determine the best mix.  

 

I sacrificed a plastic tote to stretch the sails across before brushing with boiled potato starch.  

 

 

I wet the sails then brushed the boiled potato starch onto the sails.  I used ziplock bags filled with some flour to create the shape I desired.

 

After a day of drying under the weight of the flour, the sails maintain the curved shape I was looking for.  

 

 

After the first two sails, I will attach any rings or blocks that are need before shaping.  It was a little difficult doing this after they were shaped since they are a little fragile.  

 

Next I installed the outer jib.  The challenge now was how to get the sail to move to the port side of the stay it was attached to as if the wind was coming from the starboard aft side of the ship.  I toyed with mounting the ship at a slight angle as if it was leaning with the wind, but quickly abandoned that when I realized I would need to tilt the ship an unrealistic amount to get the sails very far from the center line of the ship.  I ultimately used a piece of 26 Guage wire for the Starboard sheet to hold the sale in place.  After painting to look like the line I am using for the running rigging, it is a little over scale, but I am worried anything thinner won't be stiff enough.

 

It is just one sail so far, but I am pretty happy with how this is turning out.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ronald-V]

Very interesting! And yes it does look really nice, curious how it will look when under full sails  

Edited October 1 by Ronald-V

[RossR]

It has been awhile since my last update.  I have the jib sails and the fore royal sail and fore top gallant sail installed.  I am achieving the look I wanted with the sails.  One concern I have with the method I am using create the shape of the sails is the potato starch creates a bit of a shiny surface on the side of the sail that it is applied.  With the way I am planing on displaying my model the back side of the sales wont be visible, so I am not concerned on this model, but I would caution others to consider this if they choose to use this method.

 

 

 

 

 

The Top Sail is not fulling complete yet.  I need to get the Fore yard installed to finish the top sail.  For the Fore and main top sails and the lower course of stay sails, I will rig those sails furled instead of unfurled.  I have seen this as being called "rigged for fighting".  Not sure if it is an accurate representation of how a ship like this would enter battle, but I like the idea of being able get a better look at the deck on the completed model.  I need to get some help from someone who sew to make the sails that will be furled smaller before I continue with those sails.  Due to the over scale thickness of the sail material if I furl the sail as is, it will be way too big on the yard.  

 

For attaching the various lines to the belay pins, I am taking the advice I say from a user on the site (can't remember who gave the advice) to run the line through the hole for the belay pin then install the pin to secure it.  After I add a rope Hank you won't be able to see that the line isn't secured to the pin in the traditional way.  At this scale I think this shortcut is the only way I would be able to complete the rigging.  I am leaving the excess lines on for awhile In case I need to adjust any of the lines later.  

 

I think In the future if I build a fully rigged model it will be a scale like 1:48 and not 1:85.  I wish my eyesight was better, but at this scale the rigging is really challenging to me.  

 

 

As always, thanks for all the views and likes.  I will be shifting gears back to my Santisima Trinidad cross section until I can find someone to help me sew the sails that will be furled.