Band Saw Recommendations

[ChrisLBren]

Hello Group, 

 

With the addition of my Taig Mill, Emco Unimat 3  as my metal lathe, I am thinking I need one more tool - a bandsaw to reduce lumber before final dimensioning with my Brynes tools.  Thoughts please - ideally I would like to be able to reduce 1 inch thick board to dimensions needed for our hobby.  My local cabinet maker is great - however I would like the ability to do this in house in my basement.   Christmas is a great time to buy more tools

 

Happy Holidays everyone !!!!

[Chuck]

I can highly recommend the Laguna 14/BX.   Its more than 2HP which makes it easy to cut through hardwoods at even 6" wide.   I have used it without fail to resaw sheets from billets of wood.   Yes its pricey but everything good is a bit more expensive.   I have had mine for over 5 years if not more.

 

 

https://lagunatools.com/classic/bandsaws/14bx-bandsaw/

 

There are lesser models with slightly less HP which would be fine if you are only cutting for yourself.   The more HP was used to resaw sheets for sale and is used and abused.

 

Chuck

[jimbyr]

Chris

 

I use the grizzly G0555.  It has bearings on the blade

 

Jim

 

 

[LyleK1]

I have a Ricon 10-3061. It will cut up to 5-1/2 inches.

I use it to mill wood for many things including for our hobby.

It's small enough for a basement/garage but versatile enough to do a lot.

Good luck in your search!

[bruce d]

Hi Chris,

I swear by my Metabo 261:

I believe there is a North American version wearing a 'customer badge'. Main positive points are superb build quality, ball bearings guides, cast table, small footprint benchtop design and (small but useful point) it is relatively quiet. Only one negative point: The table tilting mechanism works fine but I beefed up the locking clamp. It didn't fail, I just felt one more locking screw wouldn't hurt.

 

HTH

Bruce

[grsjax]

I have a WEN 10" bandsaw that is great.  Not the largest or most powerful but it does everything I need at a price point a lot lower than most.  Another option if you can find one is an old Delta 12" bandsaw or one of the numerous copies of this machine.  Very heavy and solid.  I had one for years but had to get rid of it when we downsized and I no longer had room for big power tools.

Edited December 23, 2022 by grsjax

[Jaager]

4 hours ago, Chuck said:

The more HP was used to resaw sheets for sale and is used and abused.

I add my vote to what Chuck  recommends. 

I fought with a 3 wheel bench top for way too long. 

I went an increment further with a Rikon 10-353.  It is 3HP.  It has also about doubled in price since I bought it.

A 14" bandsaw with more than the minimal powered motor is what is needed for serious resawing. 

Any bench top bandsaw will struggle with real resawing.  The blade on an undersized and underpowered machine is likely to wander or bow in the cut.  The loss of wood to misshapened cuts is significant. 

If you are serious about this, a benchtop machine is a ticket to frustration and regret,  the very definition of false economy.

 

I would not call any of this an investment, but if you buy a big boy machine you can always haunt the kit forums and when a post about "where to I find wood strips?" comes up from someone stateside, you could always try doing a deal IM  if you have the time.   You can also obtain wood species that are not available any other way, if you are young enough.   Apple, ornamental species of Pear, Hornbeam, Hophornbeam, Dogwood, Hawthorn, etc.   You may find wild Holly that is not snow white - but the yellow and Blue mold infected wood is perfect for our uses.  And besides,  the color of the much desired snow white stock does not match any wood that was used for actual ship building.  Sugar Pine and Basswood is about as close to white as any shipbuilding wood could get.

 

@Chuck  If you have not done this already,  if your blades do not last as long as you wish and a carbide blade costs more than you want to pay, a Lenox Diemaster 2 Bi-metal blade is likely more cost effective.   It lasts many times longer than a steel WoodSlicer - a tad more kerf and a tad more set - but the much longer lifespan more than compensates.

https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/lenox-diemaster-2-bi-metal-band-saw-blades

a 9' 7"     1/2"x0.25" 4tpi   is $51.12

[Chuck]

I have a lot of blades...I usually stick to the laguna pricey blades but do use the wood slicer for soft stuff like the cedar.   But the Laguna resaw king blades are wonderful.   But you do get stuck with the occasional badly made blade that breaks along the weld.   But they do take them back with no questions asked.  I will certainly try the blade you recommended also.  I prefer the 1/2" blade.   Slow and steady...let the blade cut and dont push to fast.  If you rush and push the wood through to force it quicker, especially on wide boards you are looking for trouble.   

 

I usually cut all my sheets and sand them the next day.  This is what Joe does at modelers sawmill as well.   In fact he has a laguna too....same one.  It all depends if you like the ceramic guides vs. the steel wheels.  I dont mind the ceramic guides.  They are a pain to change,   but I havent had any issues.  Guide set-up is key....getting them the correct distance from the blade and not a large gap is the key....just touching them almost....

 

You will know once you start using one.

 

Chuck 

[Jaager]

23 minutes ago, Chuck said:

I prefer the 1/2" blade.   Slow and steady...let the blade cut and dont push to fast.  If you rush and push the wood through to force it quicker, especially on wide boards you are looking for trouble. 

I absolutely agree.   When I was fighting with my EmcoMeyer 3 wheel, and having endless tracking problems,  I had it in mind that a wider blade would tracker better.  I now believe that blade width has nothing to do with it.  I think that a wider blade is for a larger machine working thicker stock.  It is probably more about blade life and the tension that the blade needs.   For wood and a 14" saw,  1/2" width is probably as wide as is needed.  A 3/4" blade probably does not track any better, costs more, and generates more friction within the cut.

 

I think that when a blade starts cutting more slowly, begins wandering - it means that it is dull - it is soon going to break. 

[VTHokiEE]

9 hours ago, Chuck said:

There are lesser models with slightly less HP which would be fine if you are only cutting for yourself.

Am I reading the tea leaves correctly and if I want to resaw for myself I should focus on 14” saws? Space is at a premium unfortunately.

[Jaager]

57 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

Space is at a premium unfortunately.

The foot print is not as large as would be guessed.   Not that much more than a 9" or 10" bench top - considering that they either stay occupying valuable bench space or have to be parked - and are not light weight or easy to lift.  The 14" saws are on wheels so that they can be moved into an open enough area to allow for lumber excursion.  One factor that you really want - if there is any way to get it - is to have a 220 V  outlet and a motor that is rated for that power.  

 

Blacksburg may be a location with access to old Apple trees -  a species that is as good as can be used,  but in Florida - there is Orange, Lemon, Grapefruit, and ... Loquat.

 

Addon:     I have found that two feet is a sweet spot for lumber stock length.  That is way longer than any one piece of a ship could be, fits on a bench, is convenient to stack, and not too heavy to feed into a blade -  even an 8x4 12" wide board is not toooooo much.

Edited December 24, 2022 by Jaager

[davec]

I use the grizzly G0555 like Jim does.  The 1 hp motor has been enough for me.  I cut boxwood and pear in approximately 2' lengths and rarely more than 3" thick, just for my own model ship projects.  I'm not in business like Chuck, and only cut a few dozen billets each year.    If you are going to be cutting thicker wood, cutting high volume, or doing heavy duty wood working, the Laguna is a beautiful machine, but probably more than necessary if you are milling wood just for yourself at the pace most of us build. I agree with the comment about bench top machines - I tried one and had to return it. The comments about the blades are interesting. I have a 3/4" resaw blade.  It works fine for my purposes.  

[Roger Pellett]

I believe that the old Delta saw that grsjax mentioned above was  a 14in saw.  These were the industry standard in the 1980’s and if you can find one it should meet your needs.  These saws can be upgraded with new tires, new guides, a new tension spring and if necessary a larger motor.  Many of these improvements are designed to fit the Delta saw.  I don’t know if anyone makes a bandsaw with an integral motor, one that is directly connected or geared to the saw.  If so, I would avoid it in favor of a belt driven tool.  With a belt driven tool, you can easily change the speed of the blade , increase motor HP, or replace a dead motor. 

 

Roger

[Bob Cleek]

3 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

I believe that the old Delta saw that grsjax mentioned above was  a 14in saw.  These were the industry standard in the 1980’s and if you can find one it should meet your needs.  These saws can be upgraded with new tires, new guides, a new tension spring and if necessary a larger motor.  Many of these improvements are designed to fit the Delta saw.

Yes, and there are many of them out there on the used market. The actual Delta "old 'arn" models aren't nearly as common as the "pirate clones" turned out (and still being turned out) by the "Revolutionary Peoples' Patriotic Bandsaw Collective," but these Chinese knock-offs are fine at the top end (e.g. Grizzly G0555) and there are a ton of after-market up-grade kits that can turn them into real "hot rods." 

 

See: Search Results (woodcraft.com)

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks for all of the replies - I will check out all of the recommendations.   Merry Xmas to everyone.  

 

As far as the Bandsaw requirements I'm interested in ripping boards into 1/2 and 9/32 billets for a certain French Frigate in 1/36.  Because of the amount of wood required (a monster at 5 feet 7 inches unrigged) - I want to be able to do this in house.  I believe a good band saw in conjunction with my DeWalt Table saw should do the trick.    

 

The TAIG Mill is a dream machine to work with - much more accurate than the Proxxon MF70.  Part of me wishes I could re do all of the keel and frame parts on the Big Belly with it.  I want a Bandsaw of the same quality as the TAIG and Byrnes tools - you do get what you pay for.  

 

Best,

Chris