USS Constitution by AndyMech - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1:93 - Cross-Section

[JPett]

Ahoy Andy

 

I am with Augie

 

Clean and Sweet

[MTC37]

Andy,

I'm enjoying watching your build. When I planked the decks I made them full length for structural reasons. I cut them just a bit long, using a pair of diagonal pliers and then sanded them flush to the frame. I didn't put in plank joints but wish I had. Since then I've made a jig for marking the joints and tree nails. It's a piece of plexiglas with a slot for the joint and 4 holes for the nails. I used a mechanical pencil to create the joint and nails. A harder lead would give a smaller line which would be nice. I've attached a picture of it. The plank was a piece of scrap where I was trying out different approaches, including scoring the joint and using a fine tip marker. The ink bled into the joint and didn't work for me.

For the holes in the deck for the mast I was more concerned about having a little adjustment available when the mast was to go in and left a little play between the mast and hole. "Mast feet" (No.96, Piede albero, on the plans)are provided and will cover a pretty good size gap the deck and mast.

Tom (aka MTC37)

 

[AndyMech]

Interesting. Thanks for following, and I know there haven't been many updates recently.

 

I did plank the gun deck yesterday and will post an update soon. On this deck, I did add butt joint markings, in pencil rather than make the actual joints. The joints wouldn't line up with frames, so I didn't want to risk the structural integrity. You can judge hoe they look.

 

Update coming soon.

 

Andy

[AndyMech]

Wow, it's really been a long time since I last updated.  Holidays, vacations, illness (a really bad cold) have all prevented my progress.  But, I'm getting back to it.

 

First, I noticed that I had forgotten to put in the deck supports for the 2nd deck, and when I test fitted them, the barrels I had so carefully glued in were in the way.  So, I learned how to de-bond my PVA (Titebond) with a little isopropyl alcohol, I was able to remove enough barrels to get them installed.

 

Next, was the deck planking.  The center is planked with 6 2x4 (mm) walnut planks and another mast hole needs to be created.  I did it half-by-half, carefully laying the first plank to make sure it's centered and orthogonal, then using that as a guide for the other.

 

After the first half circle was carved out and mast test fitted, just repeat on the other side.

 

 

The rest of the planks are then added.  Unlike the lower deck, I wanted to add the "butt joints", but like I said in my earlier post, I was concerned about doing it exactly on the framing pieces as they didn't line up and I didn't want to have a joint over open space.

 

So, I merely used pencil to mark the lines after deciding on the spacing pattern.  I also chose to not do treenails after some debate (with myself anyway).  I don't have a small enough drill bit, so I skipped that for now.

 

 

Next up, I'm planking the bulwarks and I added the mast ring supports.  Those were a soft metal that I blackened.  If you remember (and who would?), I had issues with flaking on my last blackening attempt, so this time I diluted the solution (1 part water, 1 part solution) and took more care cleaning the rings.  It worked out so much better - no flaking in solution, and a nice even black color.

 

Edited April 5, 2014 by AndyMech

[augie]

First off, Best of the Holidays to you and yours.  You've made some really nice progress there.  Sorry you had to restow some barrels!  And nice work on the blackening.

[AndyMech]

I'm a little behind in the updates, so I'll post a couple of replies to get caught up on the progress.

 

I had finished the gun deck planking and added the mast support ring.  Next up were the cannons/carriages.

 

I deviated from the instructions a bit.  First, I painted the carriages red, like on my Revell Constitution.  I also decided to add breech ropes, but not pulleys.  At this smaller scale, I didn't feel I had the skill, nor the model have the space to add both.  I used a large tan thread that the kit intended (I think) for the shrouds.  Shrouds should be black, so I ordered some nice thread from the Syren ship co.  That left this nice tan for the cannon breechings.

 

Also, the kit was short 4 of the wheel assemblies for the cannons, so I fabricated them from some dowels.  Once they were painted black, I doubt anyone can tell.

 

The cannons themselves, I attempted to blacken, but they utterly failed - I'm guessing they are aluminum or steel.  I sanded off the lousy blacken attempt and just painted them.

 

 

Edited April 5, 2014 by AndyMech

[AndyMech]

To finish off the gun deck, I added the pumps.  These were blackened, mostly successfully but I find the black tends to rub off pretty easily, leaving shiny bits.  That happened as I assembled the pumps - putting the rods through the holes.  I used a bit of touch up paint to hide the worst of the scraped off bits.

 

 

Edited April 5, 2014 by AndyMech

[AndyMech]

Yesterday, started work on the top deck.  I had previously laid the supports, so I framed the hatchway, then planked the rest.

 

I again made a paper template for where the mast hole should be, and after the deck was laid, cut out the circle and added the mast ring.

 

Finally, today, I added breech ropes for the guns on this level.  I'll leave these black instead of red as they were pre-painted by Mamoli (not the greatest reason, but they look ok to me this color).

 

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2014 by AndyMech

[mischief]

Really nice Andy.  I'm tempted to start dancing to 'Yo, ho,ho and a dead man's chest'. 

 I'm in also  

[texxn5]

Hi Andy, I just found out you've been busy since you finished the Revell.  I was unaware you had another project.  Looking very good.  I contemplated this same kit before deciding on the Morgan.   I'll be following along, you are always an inspiration...wood to me is easier than plastic...now that I dove off in the middle of it...keep it up

John

[AndyMech]

Thanks John.  The wood vs. plastic is an interesting contrast - different skills required for sure.  I had virtually no wood experience after my Revell, so I made the canoe (you can see in the first page) as a training.

 

I'm finding the most mistakes I'm making are symmetrical - the center line where the mast goes, down to the keel is not exactly center with the bulwarks - sometimes I'm off by as much as 2-3mm.  It emphasizes the need to really be careful when putting the frames together.  I thought I was doing it correctly, on the plans, etc., but I guess not.  The good news is, I can cover up and adjust for the errors with the deck planking and I don't think it's overly visible, even to the expert eyes MSW provides.  (If anyone has noticed, I am prepared to be highly impressed).  

 

I'm expecting that plank-on-bulwark will be easier to keep centered, as I will probably do that type of ship next (whether it's the Syren or a smaller ship, I don't know yet).

 

Andy.

[ScottRC]

Man Andy, great build.  your making me want to build this kit and add it to my 1/96 Connie as well.  Looks like a lot of fun and thanks for the build log.

 

Scott

[Ptb429]

Andy, what a great build!  I am building the Conny cross section as my re-entry into model shipbuilding,  But my efforts pale next to yours.  Thanks so much for sharing!

[AntonyUK]

Hi Andy.

Very nice work on everything.

The timber you are using.... Was it supplied with the kit ?

 

Regards Antony.

[texxn5]

Hi Andy, I understand the problem, I've done that numerous times.....wood actually is quite forgiving for hiding or correcting mistakes.  I have found too, that too soft a wood won't hold a good shape or drill holes in particular.  Drill bits also tend to wander off into nowhere sometimes, a drill press would be of great help if I had one.  But it does give you an understanding of what every part is for as well as a great sense of acomplishment since you made all the components.....unlike plastic where sometimes were just gluing parts together......totally different feelings.....looking good.....keep it up...

[AndyMech]

Hi Andy.

Very nice work on everything.

The timber you are using.... Was it supplied with the kit ?

 

Regards Antony.

 

Hi Antony,

 

Thanks for looking in - yes the wood supplied all came with the kit.  The majority that I've worked with so far is walnut, with the decks being tanganyka.  I find the walnut splinters easily, but overall I'm pleased with the wood quality.

 

Andy.

[AndyMech]

I did the pin rails, both the one surrounding the mast and some side cleats.  Overall, I found this to be easy (must be learning something), if I go slow and careful.

 

The more difficult part was drilling the larger holes in the pin rail supports - the wood wanted to splinter.  I ended up sanding down the 2mm dowel so it would fit in the 1.5 mm hole I prepared.  I also found the need to file down every one of the pins so I didn't force them into the 1mm holes I drilled.  If forced, the would crack the wood in two.

 

I used a bit of diluted white glue to "secure" the pins - just enough so they don't fall out - the lines should hold them in just fine.

 

And, finally, I realize the white metal of the pins probably isn't the right color.  I could, I suppose, paint them a wood color, but perhaps the lines, once belayed, will cover them up pretty well.

 

 

 

 

Thanks to everyone who's looked and commented - I really do appreciate it, even if I don't have time to respond individually.

 

Andy.

Edited April 5, 2014 by AndyMech

[texxn5]

Looks very nice Andy,you've got the hang of it....

[Gerligand]

Hi Andy,

 

I just found your log about your build. Your work is incredible. I just got this model for Christmas so I will definitely follow your build log. I am currently finishing the Santisima Trinidad cross_section by occre and just started the Bluenose by Model Shipways so it might take me a while before I get to it.

 

Keep up the good work and the pictures coming Andy.

 

Pierre

[AndyMech]

More progress this weekend - lots of snow here, so not any distractions.

 

I made the ladder on both sides of the hull - the kit provides 3x3mm right angle wood, which I cut into 10mm lengths, sanded off the square corners and glued into place with 1mm spacing in between.

 

 

 

Next, I blackened the braces for the hammock netting and the end-pieces.  Those, I also painted a bit of the highlight.  I used black tulle for the hammock netting, like on my last Connie, and I still think it looks pretty good.

 

 

 

 

 

Andy.

[AndyMech]

My usual weekend progress - I get a few hours per weekend day to do what I can.

 

On Saturday, it was 2 steps forward, one step back.  The steps forward were to install the portholes.  The step back was I crunched the hammock netting with my headband magnifier.  To fix it, I removed a couple of the supports, applied some wood putty, let it dry, then re-drilled the hole for the support, painted it and re-glued the support.  The end result was nice - very difficult to tell it was damaged in the first place.

 

Today, I put in the channel supports on the side of the ship, and applied 3 coats of wipe on poly.  Next up will be painting the upper hull.

 

 

 

 

Andy.

 

[russ]

Andy:

Your cross section is coming out really well. Great work.

 

Russ

[AndyMech]

The last two weekends have been spent on the outside hull - painting and coppering.

 

First: painting.  I prepped the hull with 3 coats of wipe-on-poly (WOP) sanding in between each coat with 400 grit sandpaper.  The first two coats must have soaked into the wood, as the poly was evident, but not very thick. The last coat provided the base that I expected - it was a very different feel to the wood after that one.

 

I used acrylic paint - ModelMaster Acryl (left over from my Revell Constitution), and I thinned it down quite a bit with plain water.  The plan was to put on as many thin coats as needed to get good coverage while still hoping the wood grain would show through a bit.  I did the black first, then masked it off with Tamiya tape and then painted the white.

 

Here are the results.

 

 

 

Next was the bottom of the hull - copper.  The kit provided a bunch of wood pieces that are a mottled green -  I think they are going for the weathered patina that copper will eventually take.  I wanted to practice coppering with copper tape instead.

 

First, I found some nice 3/16" wide (about 4mm) tape with adhesive backing from a local stained glass hobby shop.

 

 

I cut a whole lot of 15mm long strips from the roll and put them on one-by-one, overlapping from stern to bow, up keel to deck.  This took a lot longer than I thought it would - both the cutting and placing.  I used a pencil erasure to rub them onto the wood (at first I used a hobby knife handle, but that left a lot of creases on the tape - which are still evident on some plates near the keel).

 

After it was all done, I gave it a cleaning using lemon juice and salt - that worked really really well - removed all fingerprints and tarnish that had already started to appear and I didn't have to go out and buy a commercial polish or use acetone (which is nasty smelling).

 

(This first photo is prior to cleaning with lemon juice):

 

(This is interesting - how I secured the hull for the coppering process.  I had already installed the hammock netting, so couldn't rest the hull on the table top.  I inserted the main mast into the hull, and clamped it upside down using my keel clamp.  Worked very well - I could still rotate the hull toward me to get the angles I needed to get the tape on.)

 

 

Next up is finishing the ballast in the lower hull - painting barrels, adding rocks, etc.  Then, I think, starting on the mast and spars.

 

Andy.

[texxn5]

Looks really nice Andy. I thought about building this one after finishing the Revell, but decided to do the Morgan instead. I might still do this one in the future. I really like the concept of cross sectional models...shows the intricacy of the real thing.

[stevenmh]

Hi Andy - I just bought this kit and will be starting it as soon as I make myself a place to work, so I've been watching your log with great interest.  Hope I can make mine look half as nice as yours. 

 

This is my first project - first wooden ship model, first model of any kind in a long long time, and first solo wood project.  So if you don't mind my asking some really basic questions, what tools did you find were essential to working on this model, what glues - in other words, given that I am starting with a tool-kit containing nothing other than a X-acto knife, metal ruler and some binder clips for clamps, what tools would you suggest I stock my larder with as I test the waters of this hobby?

 

Thanks, and I look forward to future log entries!!

[augie]

Nicely done on the coppering, Andy.

[AndyMech]

Hi Andy - I just bought this kit and will be starting it as soon as I make myself a place to work, so I've been watching your log with great interest.  Hope I can make mine look half as nice as yours. 

 

This is my first project - first wooden ship model, first model of any kind in a long long time, and first solo wood project.  So if you don't mind my asking some really basic questions, what tools did you find were essential to working on this model, what glues - in other words, given that I am starting with a tool-kit containing nothing other than a X-acto knife, metal ruler and some binder clips for clamps, what tools would you suggest I stock my larder with as I test the waters of this hobby?

 

Thanks, and I look forward to future log entries!!

 

Hi, and thanks for looking into my build.  I'm new to wood modeling as well, and using this kit to get a feel for working with wood.  Ask anything you like - there are a lot of options and alternatives for doing most everything, but you got to start somewhere.

 

Glue -- I use Titebond Original (has a red label).  It will soften with water or IPA (isopropal alcohol) if it needs to be undone.  I will also use "thick" viscosity CA (super glue) for gluing metal to metal or metal to wood.  I'll also use dilute Elmer's white glue for the rigging knots.

 

Tools - my tool collection is growing, but only as I need stuff.  I find using a X-acto chisel blade works really well for cutting planks (very sharp and has a long enough edge to cut perpendicular).  Using a #11 blade works too.  I use a short metal ruler a lot for straight edges, and tweezers of course.  Specialized tools - I bought a "True Sander" recently for squaring off edges, a miter box (metal) with a razor saw for cutting dowels and thicker planks that the chisel won't work on.  I recently got a suction-mounted vise - I have no toolbench area, but it mounts securely to a glass-topped table in the house.  Some files and sandpaper as well.  I use sandpaper much more than files, but that might be because I bought cheap files and they don't work very well.  Emery boards are super cheap and useful for sanding as well.  Also, a variety of clamps are essential (binder clips, clothespins, pinch clamps, etc.)  Oh! and a pin-vise for drilling very small (<1mm) holes.

 

I also have a Amati Keel Clamp which is very useful for holding the work in progress, but it's expensive (I convinced certain people in the house that it would make a good birthday gift).

 

My best advice is to start work, and get the tools as you need them.

 

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask me anything. 

 

Andy.

[AndyMech]

Let me also add an update to the log, but without photos.  After the coppering, decided to postpone 3 steps:

 

1. Adding the ballast rocks - I want the painted mast to be inserted first so that the rocks and glue won't interfere with seating the mast.
2. The stanchions on the top deck which hold the ropes over the hatchway - my first issue is that my kit only came with 7 stanchions, and it calls for 8.  I emailed Mamoli about it, but got no reply.  I will probably end up using 6 instead, as I have no idea how to fabricate a metal looking stanchion that matches the other 7.  (I'm open to ideas here!)  I also want to hold off on this because they will be fragile and I don't want to knock them about when doing the rigging.  They also should be easy enough to add later as they're on the outside of the top deck and there shouldn't be any interfering elements (shrouds, for example)
3. The gun-port lids - again, I'm holding off on these mainly because I don't want to break them off during masting and rigging.  The should be easy enough to paint (white) and CA on after everything else is done.

So, with all that on hold, I started crafting the mast.  Purchased a vise which allowed me to square off the end of the lower mast, I've been building the fighting top (which was horribly warped out of the box - so I've soaked and clamped it several times to get the warp out), and fitting the cross-trees together.  I had to file away part of the upper crosstree to fit the mast, etc, then make a new one. I added different cheeks and a fish to the lower mast to match my Revell Constitution, and still need to add the bands and paint the whole thing.

 

This is the part of the build where Mamoli's instructions really get sparse - I've spend a lot of time figuring out what to do next and trying to see how it all fits together.  Thanks to MSW, there's plenty of info out there to help.

 

I'll post some photos when I get a chance - work continues!

 

Andy.

[lambsbk]

Can I 'amen' that?  My brain was getting tired of figuring out the 'beyond the box' steps so I took a mast break myself. Your build continues to look fantastic Andy.

[AntonyUK]

Hi Andy.

You have made excellent progress since I last looked in on your build.

The coppering looks very nice.

I will never understand the black painting of the hull exterior. Just stands out as a silhouette.

 

Miss the photos

 

Regards Antony.