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Bluenose by LegoKing5522 - Model Shipways - 1:100 - Canadian Fishing Schooner


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I am new at this so I will do my best with this build log. help is welcome especially with planking since I have never done it before. 

if these pictures are in file format, please tell me and I will keep trying to make them not files. another thing thanks to Azzoun for providing the model and tools.

 

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that's the box. I have made the frame already, though it's not perfect. still needs some filing done to it.

image.thumb.jpeg.b5525ef14af1ad54544721244557673e.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.fcdd004fe885fde9d51215c8e422234b.jpeg

thanks in advance for any advice for this build. 

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Something to file away for reference for future builds is to check the straightness of the longitudinal profile former (false keel) before mating the bulkheads to it. Yours looks to have a noticeable bend in it. Another recommendation I would make, and this is worth putting your build on hold for a few days or weeks while you do it, is to get a copy of Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini and read it. It's a great introduction to the process of building a wooden model, and particularly so in your case because Frank used a build of the very similar Artesania Latina Bluenose kit to illustrate his methods. I think you would find his book very helpful.

 

Cheers!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Bf 109E-7/trop

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I think you have a good start here. At this stage, I would consider building the stand so the model has something to rest in as you're working on it. After a certain point the model won't be too much "in hand" so it's good to have it in a protected spot.

 

Something to consider before starting the hull planking -- the deck planks on the fore deck need a landing spot for their aft ends, where the step up to the quarterdeck is. I've included below a photo from my current 1:64 Bluenose build that shows this. I just used off-cut scrapwood to do this after tracing the deck "camber" (the curve of the deck from the centreline to port and starboard) onto the forward face of the bulkhead that defines the forward edge of the quarterdeck. If your bulkheads are already glued in it might be a bit tricky to get this line traced. But if not, you can just lay the last fore deck bulkhead and the first quartedeck bulkhead together with their bottoms aligned and trace the top edge of the forward bulkhead onto the aft one - then lay some scrap strips these so the deck plank ends have a place to sit when you come to the decking. 

 

The hull planking on this model is actually very straightforward compared with others, due to the overall hull shape. The sharp bow means that there is very little bending and only very slight twisting of the hull planks that needs to be done. Some of the planks will need to be tapered at the bows. You'll be able to tell when to start this as you lay the planks since they will start to want to bend upwards and overlap with the previous one installed - when this happens, just note on the plank the point at which it wants to cross over to overlap with the previous one and taper it gently from that point forward.

 

The first hull plank should be laid with its top edge flush with the top of the deck planking. So it might be easiest to first lay a strip of deck planking along the outside edge of the bulkheads - this will serve to simulate the waterways on deck and give you a reference point for the first strip (or "strake" as we say) of hull planking. Below is a picture of this waterway strip laid on my Bluenose prior to beginning the hull planking - hope it helps to clarify what I'm talking about. The strip is laid on top of the bulkheads and flush with the inboard side of the bulkhead extensions.

 

The third photo shows the waterway deck plank and the first outboard hull plank installed - you can't tell really from the photo, but the hull plank's top edge is flush with the top edge of the waterway plank - the rest of the hull planking just flowed from there. Hope you don't mind me posting these photos in your log. 

 

Good luck and keep posting the photos and questions - you'll learn quickly that way!

hamilton

 

 

 

bluenose q-deck step.jpg

bluenose waterway.jpg

bluenose waterway & sheer.jpg

Edited by hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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that is helpful, my model is a little different with the way deck planks and the hull side are supposed to be put together. your frames have the deck down and the sides rise up. mine is just flat. and I have to build the sides, so that will be interesting to do. but otherwise, your post is very helpful.

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Interesting - you may need to use some push pins or straight pins to set the waterway strip in place, since there are no bulkhead extensions. If you start mid-ships and work fore and aft this should be relatively straightforward. It will also give you a chance to test the fairness of the outside edges of the bulkheads - if you tack the waterway strip in place along the tops of the bulkhead edges and get it running in a nice smooth curve, you will see where the bulkhead edges either stick out from or are set back from the outboard edge of the waterway - this will tell you where you need to shave some of the wood off the bulkhead edges or build them up with thin wood strips to get a smooth run of hull planking.

 

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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okay it took me a day to get this done, I had to fix that problem with the false keel. here are before and after pictures, and some notes on how I fixed this.

20230412_153227028_iOS.thumb.jpg.f0f7aa09b9ad2bbab1506562146ebcc2.jpg20230412_153239011_iOS.thumb.jpg.cf793062716900737f2aba6005e9a6dc.jpg20230412_153251455_iOS.thumb.jpg.34a6cf68b2b70a02b006f281ec9567c0.jpg

as you can see the platform the deck will sit on is straight and that curve of the keel makes the frame stick out. So, I had the idea that if I slowly glue each bulkhead where I want it one at a time, it might straighten the keel out.

20230413_161700993_iOS.thumb.jpg.9e3a350ffc5c21a0c95c56f185bfa233.jpg

the hard part about this method is trying to hold the board for the deck in place, so it's perfect with the bulkheads, because I had to slip rubber bands around basically the entire stern to hold it in place. but I managed.

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after that I did some of the decking, it needs a little more sanding, but I think it looks good. should the deck be smooth, and should every plank be flush with each other?

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Hey Lego!

 

Looks like you're learning a lot on this build and that's the point!  Despite anything you may be unsatisfied with, when the build is done, it'll be hardly noticeable, especially to those who don't build models.    Keel looks nice and straight now!

 

So, couple fileable items for next time is along with making sure the keel is straight before you start, before you glue in the bulkheads (cross members to the false keel), you'll want to make sure they fit square to the keel.    

 

Is your false deck now glued to the tops of the keel and bulkheads now?   The back section should align with edges of bulkheads like in the front.   You'll definitely want to straighten that out.    If you used the white pva wood glue, rubbing alcohol will dissolve the glue and unbind it if you need to re-do.   

 

To answer your question, the deck planking should be smooth and flush with the other planks, so you'll need to keep sanding to achieve that.  

 

Joshua 

 

                    

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Just a note, before you plank, you'll need to fair the bulkheads to the shape of the hull.  Meaning, take a sanding block and knock the square corners down so they're at an angle the is inline with the shape of the hull so the planks lay flat upon them.  

 

                    

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yes, the false deck is glued to the bulk heads. I made sure that the stern looks like the front when the false deck connects to the bulkheads. any little bumps I filed down. ( i never new how much filing was involved in modeling, thanks for the files there really useful.) and I'll keep the alcohol trick in mind. and thanks for answering the question. 

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Okay sorry for the delay in posts, I tend to only post every other day. but I work on the model every night from 10pm-12am. so anyway heres an update on my progress, I have started planking..... I think I'm doing it right from what I've seen from other posts, if not please correct me.

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I will cut the planks on the bow a little later, probably when I start the other side.

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So, I have a question for you guys. would you guys like me to post my planking progress as I build or post after I'm done planking? (This doesn't include questions). also why I am asking is because if i was posting my slow progress, it might get boring to you guys. So, it's up to you guys

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Your build log is primarily for you to share your work and seek assistance.   If there's time between updates, that's more the normal than the exception.   Take your time and enjoy the process, there's no hurry.    Contribute to your build log in a way that serves you, your audience will chime in as they can, if they see it.     If you want more interactions with members on this site, visit their build logs or discussion threads and chime in.     You should check out the New London, Connecticut Northeast Ship Modelers' Conference  on Youtube:).  

 

Joshua 

Edited by Azzoun

 

                    

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Okay here is an update on my progress.

20230419_155425204_iOS.thumb.jpg.8d66369721cd547383757a878ad68718.jpg20230419_155439143_iOS.thumb.jpg.0da3895bfebe23a72ce92480d3be4f8c.jpg20230419_155446889_iOS.thumb.jpg.cba59967e90c174801be7c6671b8f7f4.jpg20230419_155457634_iOS.thumb.jpg.411347497afa8c8548460bd5043e1bdb.jpg

sorry for the slightly blurry photos I'm not an expert with cameras lol. any how it's going to get very interesting with the planking soon, because of the keel. more cutting and fitting." yay!" that will be fun to learn!

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Nice work on the planking so far!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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I finished planking! and I sanded to where I am comfortable with the look. I built the spot where the rigging attaches to the deck.... can someone tell me the name of that spot please. 

20230425_194457302_iOS.thumb.jpg.3f0dda54a835b23f1aff254f051c92e2.jpg20230425_194540057_iOS.thumb.jpg.e8b8c27b83ba78f18affaedc553aba88.jpg20230425_194549476_iOS.thumb.jpg.a5525547aa53dbf4a325dfc51ab293a9.jpg

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on the rudder I messed up with the medal pieces.. I must have read the wrong piece description in the back, it was a brass belt that was supposed to be used, I'm going to defiantly checking than rechecking part numbers and descriptions from now on. luckily, I didn't cut the pieces for the other side yet. 😬🙂20230425_194526305_iOS.thumb.jpg.f2e2ca60170ff7989babed7aa07349de.jpg

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If you're talking about the series holes that you drop pins into, it's call a pin rail where belaying pins go.   You're really doing that kit some solid justice, I think you're going to land a pretty impressive model for your first when you're done!

 

Joshua 

 

                    

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12 minutes ago, LegoKing5522 said:

I have to get my mom to take me to hobby lobby for paint

 

Okay, I had no idea you were that young -- that makes me appreciate your first planking attempts even more. Keep up the good work!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Bf 109E-7/trop

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  • 2 weeks later...

i am sorry for the long delay, I've been kind of busy lately. any how I finished painting the hull. for the red I mixed navy blue and bright red together, there are about three coats of red on the hull. then two coats black, and like five coats of white. then to finish it I spraypainted a gloss coat over the hull.

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oh, also sorry about my terrible pictures I am not an expert with the camera lol.

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34 minutes ago, LegoKing5522 said:

i am sorry for the long delay

 

Ha! I'm still waiting to put the final touches on my HMS Fly kit that I started in 2006!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Bf 109E-7/trop

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I just found your build log LegoKing, it looks like things are coming along nicely.  I'll pull up a chair and see her through completion.

=Denis-

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

Under Construction

Miranda

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