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USS Constitution by Der Alte Rentner - Model Shipways - 1/76


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  • 2 weeks later...

Work continues on the port side wale.

This may be way too much detail to post at the website, but I’m adding it to my personal build log, so I may as well show the steps I’m using to shape the wale segments.

 

I started with the plans (page 3), which show the width of each zone of planking.  Focusing on the wale for this step, I used a flexible measuring tape to measure the full width of the wale at each bulkhead.  I then divided by 7 to get the widths for individual wale segments. 

 

Putting together a planking order, so as not to have butt joints one above the other, I then transferred the dimensions to a grid.  The dimensions were marked at the points on a wale segment where the segment contacted the bulkheads.  A line was drawn connecting these marks and the piece was clamped into the vice of my Proxxon micro milling machine with the line parallel to the vice jaw. I milled to the line, which got me close.  Then fine tuned the material removal with a sanding stick.  Finally, I beveled the bottom edge of each segment to facilitate tighter bonding surfaces.

 

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The segments are usually much wider than the vice jaw. In this case, after milling say from one end to the middle, I move the piece so that the previously cut part is outside of the jaw.  This sounds dicey, but actually works pretty well.

The key is to keep that pencil line at the same distance above the vise jaw.  With good magnifying glasses and light, no problem..

 

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The milling gets you very close, but to really nail it, you need to use a sanding stick.

 

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Proof positive that you can get very precise tapering.

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A dry test fit should confirm if the piece was properly tapered. 

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But there’s more shaping to do.  To get a better fit when gluing the piece in, I bevel from the outer face to the bulkhead face on (in this upside down configuration) the top edge of the plank. 

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I spread Titebond glue on the upper face of the previously installed strake, and use gel super glue at the bulkheads.  This technique minimizes the use of clamps, as the super glue sets quickly.  The Titebond glue sets up more slowly, but does a nicer job of filling the gaps.

 

Then it’s time to get busy with the chisel and get the faces nice and smooth.  ( I started in the photo below). That’s followed up by passes with successively finer grits of sandpaper to really smooth things over.

 

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Five strakes down.  Two more to go on the port board side, then seven on the starboard.  At four hours per strake, I have about a week’s work ahead of me to finish the wales.  I won’t chime in again until I’m ready to move on to the lower gallery pieces.

 

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Edited by Der Alte Rentner
correct typos
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This is in essence how I planked my hull. A lot of “How to” articles and build logs use the tick mark method and proportional wheels or dividers. I just could not draw a pencil line on the hull that precise and get a strake to properly taper and fit. Like you I mathematically determined the width of the strake at every bulkhead point and sanded away, checking with the micrometer. I just didn’t do it with a nice spreadsheet. I worked each strake, one at a time, marked the determined widths on a piece of scrap paper. Once done, I discarded the paper. You did a fine job.

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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21 hours ago, JSGerson said:

This is in essence how I planked my hull. A lot of “How to” articles and build logs use the tick mark method and proportional wheels or dividers. I just could not draw a pencil line on the hull that precise and get a strake to properly taper and fit. Like you I mathematically determined the width of the strake at every bulkhead point and sanded away, checking with the micrometer. I just didn’t do it with a nice spreadsheet. I worked each strake, one at a time, marked the determined widths on a piece of scrap paper. Once done, I discarded the paper. You did a fine job.

 

Jon

Thanks Jon,  For what it's worth, I didn't use the spreadsheet at the shipyard.  I prepared it rather than run back there while updating my personal build log to retrieve and photograph my pieces of scrap paper.  

 

I am noticing as I work, that the hull itself has a wavy surface now.  Evidently, fairing the bulkheads wasn't as precisely done as I would have liked.  It's more noticeable with the hull upside down, but even right side up, I'm aware of it.  I don't know how well I'll be able to flatten the surfaces later, if at all.  I suppose this could lead to me painting the ship anyway - after applying corrective wood filler.  Time will tell..

 

Happy New Year

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Wood filler was my best friend too!😁

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

Thank you Mustafa.  In light of my response to JSGerson, I hope you're right.

Happy New Year to you as well.

If you do the edge bending the planks in the bow section of the ship, you will see that the planks fit exactly onto the bulkheads and you will get a smoother surface. As you can see in the photo, I do the edge bending with the help of an iron.

 

I wish you a Happy and healthy new year to you too.

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Edited by mtbediz
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Posted (edited)
On 1/1/2024 at 1:40 PM, mtbediz said:

If you do the edge bending the planks in the bow section of the ship, you will see that the planks fit exactly onto the bulkheads and you will get a smoother surface. As you can see in the photo, I do the edge bending with the help of an iron.

I have been edge bending, which has really only been necessary for three of the strips on each side.  That isn't the problem, as you can see in these two photos. 

 

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I'll try capture the waviness issues in a photograph when I return to the shipyard.  But a second issue has surfaced that I should have addressed a few strakes ago.  It may be more problematic than the waviness.  Look carefully at the photos below - at the wale at bulkhead D.  It doesn't seem so blatant when viewed deck side up (first photo - taken after 7th and final wale strake installed), and may yet more-or-less disappear when the planking is done.

 

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But it's distressing when viewed keel side up (older photo with only 6 strakes on).  

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Thank you for the tip of the bending technique with the iron.  I saw an earlier post of yours where you showed your method for bending the planks at the counter.  I've been doing that last twist by hand after bending the plank with a plank bending tool. But I like your bending jig option and will adapt that going forward.

 

  

Edited by Der Alte Rentner
added text and corrected typo.
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DAR - Because the hull is going to be painted, I think I have a simple solution. On the subsequent strakes, increase the width a bit of a couple of planks in that area until the 'waviness" disappears. Add a little wood filler if needed and the smooth it out so the wood strakes blend and you can't see any creases. The paint will cover any evidence of the unevenness and it will disappear. Hope this helps.

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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7 minutes ago, JSGerson said:

On subsequent strakes, increase the width a bit of a couple of planks in that area until the 'waviness" disappears.

That is my plan. 

 

When I return to the shipyard tomorrow, I'm starting the starboard side wale.  Now that I know what to keep an eye on, I'll adjust the widths as I add each strake.  Since I'm still hopeful of staying with a natural (or lightly stained) wood finish, and since only one side of the model will be facing the room where it will be displayed, I'm thinking I can present the better looking side to the public.  And no one but my MSW followers will know the difference.

 

But I believe I will indeed get to know your best friend very well very soon..  (I've experimented with that nasty bit of carving that will be the lower gallery piece. That may end up simply being formed with filler/putty and possibly covered with thin planking strips)

 

Thanks again Jon,

 

Have a great 2024.  

 

P.S.  Here's someone who is not starting 2024 off on great footing.  Someone left a garage door open and Mr. M tried to raid the shipyard.  How he managed to entangle himself on 3 of the 4 traps along the wall remains a mystery.   

 

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After seeing the last photos, I understood your problem, but the truth is that I had the same problem and, just as Jon said, I fixed the problem by increasing the width of the planks in that area when laying the next planks.

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With baited breath, the cat breathed into the mouse hole ... You might say it was a better mouth trap.  😉 

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

January 10 update.  Starboard side wale finally complete.

 

Yep, 4 hours per strake.  I hope the rest of the planking goes more swiftly.  I lost a bunch of time with the segments that end up at the counter.  Today I spent nearly 2 hours just with a plank that ran from bulkhead P to the counter.  Yeech...

 

At quick glance, things look fairly good.  The stern looks fairly even, but closer observation reveals wale planks are a tad off in terms of symmetry at the stem.  It's plainly obvious in the last photo, but as Jon and Mustafa pointed out, I can compensate with subsequent planking.  I suspect once all the planking is in, these variances won't be as noticeable.   

 

Jon,  If you are reading this..

In your massive photo database, do you have pictures of USS Constitution models that are not painted?  If so, please share.  

Thanks

 

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Of the 100 or so completed models I have images of, only one was unpainted; a scratch built model by Peter Henrick Ness. Sorry, I did not record where I found them.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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4 hours ago, JSGerson said:

Of the 100 or so completed models I have images of, only one was unpainted; a scratch built model by Peter Henrick Ness. Sorry, I did not record where I found them.

 

Wow, there's something quite charming about Conny without the makeup.   Thank you so much Jon.   This gives me all the more incentive to really concentrate on the details early - to have the option later...  

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2024 Jan 14,  I figured out an easier(?) method for fabrication the lower gallery.  Using a bevel gauge, contour gauge, scroll saw, 1/16" basswood, chisel and sanding sticks, I made three thin layers to affix to the counter extension - adjusting the shape after the addition of each layer.  I left room for planking later.  Looks good as far as I can tell.  Some shape tweaking may be required when I get to the planking.

 

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Edited by Der Alte Rentner
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6 hours ago, woodartist said:

it looks awesome to me, I keep reading you log daily, to get my mind adjusted to going back to Connie 2. However the knowledge I have gained on planking Lady Isabelle will surely pay dividends when I return.

Thanks,

I've been watching your progress on Lady Isabelle and am thinking about my next one - in 2026?

I added some photos to the above.  After posting, I returned to the shipyard to do the port side.  Once I had the technique down, I only needed a couple hours to repeat the process.  I think I'll follow XKen's lead and plank the gallery bottom before I plank to the keel on the rest of the hull.  

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It looks like you learned a bit from my mistakes. I just didn't understand how all of these three dimensional surfaces merged together and ended up having to use wood filler. Nice job!

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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8 hours ago, JSGerson said:

It looks like you learned a bit from my mistakes. I just didn't understand how all of these three dimensional surfaces merged together and ended up having to use wood filler. Nice job!

 

Jon

 

Thank you Jon,

 

Frankly, I couldn't quite figure out the three dimensional scheme either - hence my two dimensional approach. 

 

Having spent 6 hours at the shipyard today planking just the starboard side gallery bottom, I'm not sure I'm learning the right lessons.  Seems to me that wood putty and paint could end up saving me a lot of time and effort.  Had I not seen the Xken photos we recently discussed, I may not have planked at all.  While not entirely happy with the results, I console myself with the notion that once Conny is right side up, the flaws will be less noticeable. 

 

For what it's worth, I have a smidge more to show for today's effort.  I do have two planks installed on the port side.   

 

 

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I can't believe how much effort it took to plank these gallery bottoms.  Six hours at the shipyard yesterday to do the port side.  And I had to find another way to get the last 4 planks in.  Sadly, the results are not as clean as Xken's.  But again, once Conny is right side up, the compromises won't be noticeable.

 

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On the starboard side, I actually formed these shapes with 3/32 x 3/64 stock.  That was painful.  This wasn't perfect, but it worked.

 

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Comparing the sides of the hull, I have much work to do to cleanup the starboard side planking so far.  A lot of chisel and sandpaper work ahead of me there.  Then I can finally get the rest of the planking underway.   

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You did an excellent job and you should feel proud of your workmanship. Just so you don't feel too bad, Ken Forman (xKen) is a professional model maker so he sets a pretty high bar to match. He designed the Model Shipways cross section kit of the USS Constitution,  the Model Trailways Allerton Steam Fire Pumper, and written books on making brass models. So yeah, you did a fine job.

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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Great job on a real tricky concept. The one thing about this KIT, is you will be an accomplished scratch builder after completing your build. I know there are many frustrating parts, but you learn so much and solve so many problems. Again, great job

Geoff

NRG member #2666
Current build : USS Constitution

 

Finished builds: Armed Virginia Sloop (in gallery)

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On 1/17/2024 at 11:08 AM, rlwhitt said:

I'm impressed that you're able to plank these gallery drops at all, and they look great!

 

Thank you Rick.  I looked up your Essex build and am likewise impressed with your finished product.  I will be referring to that build when/if I do the copper plating.   I wish you had included more detail on the processes, especially the gallery window build.  Beautiful.

 

Thanks again.

Peter

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On 1/17/2024 at 11:41 AM, Geoff Matson said:

Great job on a real tricky concept. The one thing about this KIT, is you will be an accomplished scratch builder after completing your build. I know there are many frustrating parts, but you learn so much and solve so many problems. Again, great job

Thank you Geoff.  Your kind words are greatly appreciated. 

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On 1/17/2024 at 10:29 AM, JSGerson said:

You did an excellent job and you should feel proud of your workmanship. Just so you don't feel too bad, Ken Forman (xKen) is a professional model maker so he sets a pretty high bar to match. He designed the Model Shipways cross section kit of the USS Constitution,  the Model Trailways Allerton Steam Fire Pumper, and written books on making brass models. So yeah, you did a fine job.

Jon,

Without yours, Ken's, Geoff's, Mustafa's, and all the other wonderful builds at MSW to draw energy and inspiration from, I'd never have gotten this far.  I'm delighted to be past these "gallery drops" (thanks Rick).  I have about a week to make a dent in the rest of the hull's planking before I take off for warmer climes for a few weeks.  

Thanks 

Peter

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