Heller Shroud Loom

[Admiral Beez]

My kit's now complete except the rigging.  Has anyone had success with Heller’s shroud loom, shown below beside my build?  I’d welcome any tips.

Edited January 11 by Admiral Beez

[druxey]

I believe from previous comments on MSW that this device is a snare and a delusion! One needs to rig shrouds the conventional way - on the model itself.

[Jaager]

My database reports that:

A background piece of paper or card with the shrouds and foot ropes lined out might help keep the progression on track.

The angle (slope) of each shroud and the proper tension - remember that the deadeye and their links follow the slope of their shroud -

and the horizontal of the foot ropes are neigh on to impossible to get correct anywhere but in situ.

[Baker]

I came across this a long time ago in a Kit from Heller or Revell. 

What I remember about it from back then.
Tested a few times and then it ended in the trashbin, either I'm clumsy or the thing is unusable.

[GrandpaPhil]

If that has actual deadeyes, it would be highly recommended, and a lot less headache, to just run the shrouds and tie the ratlines yourself.

Edited January 10 by GrandpaPhil

[Ferrus Manus]

The shroud loom that Heller gives you is worthless, and the deadeyes are absolutely unusable. Buy aftermarket deadeyes and rig the shrouds and ratlines using techniques on MSW. 

[Admiral Beez]

23 hours ago, Baker said:

I came across this a long time ago in a Kit from Heller or Revell. What I remember about it from back then.  Tested a few times and then it ended in the trashbin, either I'm clumsy or the thing is unusable.

I'll likely have a similar experience, but I think I'll give it a go.   Many builders of the Heller kits toss the yards and masts and replace them with wood, which is easy enough, but I took the stubborn view and used everything, but reinforced both with carbon fibre rods on either the inside or affixed to the outside. 

 

Here's a video of the rig in use.

 

 

[allanyed]

Thanks for posting the video Beez.  Seeing the end results confirms all the bad reviews have been correct, or possibly understated.  

Allan

[Ferrus Manus]

On 1/11/2024 at 7:14 AM, Admiral Beez said:

I'll likely have a similar experience, but I think I'll give it a go.

Just save yourself some time and sanity like I did, and junk the shroud loom. However, you could very well make it work and prove us all wrong. 

[Admiral Beez]

2 hours ago, Ferrus Manus said:

Just save yourself some time and sanity like I did, and junk the shroud loom. However, you could very well make it work and prove us all wrong. 

You're probably right, but I'll try to make one shroud and see how it looks.  At this small 1/150 scale it might look fine.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  'Saw the shroud loom video and have a couple observations ...  1.) The demonstrator used the same thin cotton thread for both the shrouds and the ratlines.  I suppose a better effect might be had by using thicker line for the shrouds - preferably spun line using a Syren Rope Rocket or the equivalent (or just purchased).   2.)  A white card with horizontal lines (on both sides) corresponding to the ratline notches on the loom being used could be affixed as convenient in the middle of the loom.  Then,  3.)  Instead of wrapping thinner ratlines around the perimeter, one would use the "sewing" technique to run the ratlines (one at a time) horizontally with a long, thin needle through the thicker shrouds - using the lined card underneath as a guide.  This technique has been used on a few MSW builds, so one has to look for them.   The ratlines don't have to be 'tensioned' but can have a little 'sag' between shrouds as is commonly seen in photos of old sailing ships.  4.)  After sewing all the ratlines on a side (leaving plenty of loose line on either side), adjust the shrouds as needed.  5.)  A very small amount of CA or thinned PVC (as many prefer) can be applied to the joints (except at the first and last shrouds) with a tooth pick to 'lock' those places.  6.)  The ratlines for the first and last shroud are tied with a Cow Hitch.  This makes the end of the line run INWARD toward the run of the ratline, instead of outward if a Clove Hitch is used.  Then bit of line left over when trimmed will not 'stick out' from the end shrouds, but be concealed by the run of the ratline.

 

  The bottom ends of the shrouds can be tied either to the 'fake' deadeye pairs (appearing to be laced already) provided by the kits - which is not that bad for the 1:144 or smaller scale plastic models, as to try and used actual deadeyes at that scale can be very difficult and frustrating for most modelers.  (Of course, some have done it regardless.)  The narrow upper end gets glued as innocuously as practical.  For the larger 1:72 kits, one could strop the lower end of each shroud to a deadeye, fix the position of the narrow top end of the shroud set, then lace the deadeyes at the bottom of the shrouds to the pre-mounted lower deadeyes (tensioning as needed).  This could still look OK and be a lot easier than truing to do all the ratlines on the model.

[Admiral Beez]

I received a helpful email reply from Heller France today, directing me to the much improved instructions https://www.heller.fr/downloads/1000808950_MA_Building_Instructions.pdf.   I'm going to try to use the tool.

Edited February 14 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

On 1/12/2024 at 1:34 PM, Ferrus Manus said:

Just save yourself some time and sanity like I did, and junk the shroud loom. However, you could very well make it work and prove us all wrong. 

We've given it a go, and I think I'm satisfied, especially at this small 1/150 scale.   I still need to trim the outer edges.   On my first attempt I used water-dilluted Gorilla glue, but it turned into a pasty mess.  So, I tried again using my standard CA glue and once generously applied with a throwaway paint brush the entire structure became solid, like plastic overnight.   I like how it should remain taut without me having to tension the dead-eyes, etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 29 by Admiral Beez

[Ian_Grant]

Well done!  But to me the biggest problem with these shroud jigs is the absence of all the served shroud pair centres stacked up the masthead. I suppose one could CA the shroud ends at the base of the masthead (at about the bolster) then "serve" part of the masthead to make it look more like the shrouds are properly constructed.

 

Having said that, in the "Victory" kit the lower mastheads above the bolster are separate parts from the remainder of the masts. If memory serves, the shroud jig for this kit has a spot for the masthead to attach and then you really can wrap and serve the shroud pairs around the masthead, although Heller still shows the wrong way of seizing them together.

Edited March 3 by Ian_Grant

[Admiral Beez]

On 3/2/2024 at 12:07 AM, Ian_Grant said:

Well done!  But to me the biggest problem with these shroud jigs is the absence of all the served shroud pair centres stacked up the masthead. I suppose one could CA the shroud ends at the base of the masthead (at about the bolster) then "serve" part of the masthead to make it look more like the shrouds are properly constructed.

Good point.  I’ve redone them with more thread left at the top so I can CA them to the mast head.

Edited April 17 by Admiral Beez