Cat Esther by GrandpaPhil - 1/64 - CARD

[GrandpaPhil]

Ladders are installed:

Fife rails are laminated up and drying:

Next up will be all the bitts!

[GrandpaPhil]

All deck fittings are now made!

 

The bitts all have steel pins in them and are sitting in their holes right now

 

They are not glued.

They will get painted in the near future and permanently installed.

 

Next I have a couple minor hull fittings, then I can touch up all paint and reseal/weather the entire model.

 

After that I can get all hull rigging done, to include anchors, chainplates and deadeyes.

 

Then there will be one last round of weathering/painting of the hull.

 

After that it will be time to permanently install the model on its base.

 

 

[GrandpaPhil]

All primary fittings inside the bulwarks are complete and installed.

 

I have two pieces to make for the hull, sheaves that one set of rigging lines run through.

 

Then I need to complete all touch ups, seal the model and apply all weathering coats to make this ship look well used, but well cared for.

 

I want this ship to look like some guy’s livelihood that he used to take care of his family.

 

That is my goal.

 

This looks like the 17th Century equivalent of an owner-operator’s Mack Truck to me and that’s the look I am going for.

 

As soon as I figure out how I am going to rig this model, I will complete all of the rest of the eyebolts and other secondary fittings required to belay everything.

 

The masts, sails and standing rigging are easy.

 

It is tracing out all the running rigging and where to belay everything to that is difficult for me.

 

More the belaying part than anything else.

Edited April 15 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

Alright, I did some research.  

I have a plan, have perused my plans and have a good idea of what I need to do.  
 

I just found out that I will be making multiple types of blocks, including some that I had never heard, such as the ramshead block and the Continental lifting block.

 

I have heard of fiddle blocks, but have never used them.

 

The learning process is half the fun for me.

 

I am thoroughly enjoying this model.

I have only completed two square rigged vessels, but neither had even half of the rigging that they should have, so rigging this model with a full set of rigging lines will be a first for me.

 

The major benefit is that after I build this, the Revenge should be a lot more manageable.

 

Now to finish the hull fittings and get the rest of the painting done.

 

Then I can add hull rigging.

 

The deadeyes and chain plates, along with the covering pieces will be among the final pieces that get added to the hull.

Edited April 15 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

All eyebolts are installed in the hull.

 

Touch ups are done.

 

The hull is now ready for final sealing and weathering.

 

 

I have to let the model dry overnight so the paint can cure prior to sealing.

 

This prevents paint bleed over.

 

Once the sealant dries I’ll drybush the hull to make it look well used but well cared for.

 

Then I’ll run a drill bit through all holes to clear them.

 

After that it will be time to install chainplates with their respective fittings.

 

Somewhere along the way the hull rigging will get done to include the anchors.

 

I’m getting ready to make the deadeyes now.

[GrandpaPhil]

Speaking of deadeyes, here’s 40 x 3/16” deadeyes.

I only needed 36 of them, but I always make extra.

 

These are not anywhere near as nice as machine made deadeyes or those made by other people on this forum, but they will fulfill the function and look decent once installed.

 

I’ll clean them up a bit when I ink them brown.

 

I need 30 of them now that are 1/8” diameter.

 

Those will be interesting.

[GrandpaPhil]

Alright, I figured out the 1/8” diameter deadeyes:

It took me two hours and nearly 20 attempts to get 5 good ones.

 

I need 30 of them.

 

First, I mark the holes.

 

Second, I use a straight pin as a center punch.

 

Third, I drill the hole.

 

Fourth, I cut the groove around the deadeye with my trusty scalpel.

 

Fifth, I cut the deadeye off of the dowel rod with my trusty razor saw.

 

Lastly, I CAREFULLY finish drilling the holes.

 

All movements throughout this process must be slow and measured or the deadeye will disintegrate.

Edited April 17 by GrandpaPhil

[Scottish Guy]

On 3/4/2024 at 7:38 PM, GrandpaPhil said:

I got my new Excel razor saw blade today and realized that is the third blade I have gotten for that handle.

 

I would love to get hold of one, they are selling this nice set of three (professional or something like that). Unfortunately in the UK they don´t know about Excel Knives. You get a single one with a soft grip (which sounds amazing) but when you try to buy it I often get the message not delivered into the Highlands

[GrandpaPhil]

There might be an equivalent in Europe.  I use Excel because that’s the best available hobby saw in the US.  You might check a hardware store for a woodworking razor saw.  That tool is typically used for cutting trim in cabinetry.

[Scottish Guy]

39 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

There might be an equivalent in Europe.  I use Excel because that’s the best available hobby saw in the US.  You might check a hardware store for a woodworking razor saw.  That tool is typically used for cutting trim in cabinetry.

 

I know it´s "THE" best available hobby knife in the US, I worked with one as I was spending some time in South Carolina (Greenville / Greer) years ago. Unfortunately I never took the knife with me lol. You can get them sometimes here on Amazon but barely and often only reduced in equipment that comes with the knife, most likely only the knife itself.

 

I like the "Professional Hobby Knife Set" for USD 47.03 on the Excel Homepage

 

 

I will find a way ^^ and if I ask the sister of my wife (she lives near Chicago) if she could send me one over, not sure if this will work nowadays... but thank you anyway Phil

 

Micha

Edited April 17 by Scottish Guy

[GrandpaPhil]

Check industrial supply shops for their micro-miniature tools, too.  They are usually more precise than hobby supplies and better.  I use scalpels from medical suppliers on E-Bay because they are far sharper and cheaper than X-Acto type blades.  They last longer too.

[GrandpaPhil]

Alrighty, I have my full complement of deadeyes!

 

We are not going to discuss how many deadeyes I actually made that kept breaking, lol.

Edited April 20 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

The hull is done:

It is now time to make the masts and rig this model!

 

This includes sails.

 

Since the anchors will be going on the forward channels, is it better to wait until the forward shrouds are installed to add them on these sorts of vessels?

 

Edited April 21 by GrandpaPhil
Noticed I pulled the preventer stays tight so I loosened them up.

[Scottish Guy]

On 4/17/2024 at 2:16 PM, GrandpaPhil said:

Check industrial supply shops for their micro-miniature tools, too.  They are usually more precise than hobby supplies and better.  I use scalpels from medical suppliers on E-Bay because they are far sharper and cheaper than X-Acto type blades.  They last longer too.

 

Thank zou for that answer Phil, I found a supplier here in the UK that sells Excel blades. He sells the kit I want even cheaper than Amazon. I ordered it, should only take 5 days till it arrives

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

13 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

The hull is done:

 

Looks good Phil. I like it and the outcome is amazing.

 

Micha

[GrandpaPhil]

Thank you very much, Micha!

 

Started on the masts:

The flag pole is made and installed.

 

The bow sprit is made and just sitting there.

 

The mizzen mast has not been shaped yet, it is only cut to length, but is sitting in place.

 

I need to go to a hardware store and get another dowel rod for my last two masts.

 

I have some, but they have warped over time.

 

They are all one piece masts since this ship was built in the 17th century when they still had old growth forests.

 

The remaining masts will stand about 18-19” off the decks and be 11/32” in diameter at the base.

Edited April 22 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

All masts are cut to length:

I now know how big this model is going to be.

 

Now to finish shaping them and get them permanently installed.

 

I am using my classic scalpel carving method.

[GrandpaPhil]

The foremast is shaped:

[GrandpaPhil]

Main mast is shaped:

[GrandpaPhil]

Masts are assembled!

Next: paint and permanent installation once everything dries!

[Scottish Guy]

It´s getting there Phil. Looks really good

 

Micha

[GrandpaPhil]

Micha,

  Thank you very much!

 

I am trying to figure out all of the rigging fittings and how to use them.

 

I would like to build them up as correctly as possible.

 

I have never built a model from this time period although the 17th Century ships are aesthetically my favorites.

 

So, this one is a little bit of a learning curve.

Edited Saturday at 02:56 PM by GrandpaPhil

[Scottish Guy]

9 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

I would like to build them up as correctly as possible.

 

I have never built a model from this time period although the 17th Century ships are aesthetically my favorites.

 

So, this one is a little bit of a learning curve.

 

There you are not alone Phil, I´m in the same "boat". I never did a rigging or any sail boat / ship from this era. Tbh, I never did any sail ship yet, I did a lot of space ships but not sail ships. But you know what... I would love and appreciate to join you in this journey because I soon will need this skills myself. I keep saying, shared experience is a good experience . But in my opinion it looks good of what I can asses it by what I saw in other LOGs.

 

Micha

[GrandpaPhil]

@Scottish Guy

Micha,
  Will Cornwall Model Boats (from the UK) deliver to the Highlands?

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/index.html

 

If so, they have a lot of sailing yachts in both kit and plan form.

 

The plans would probably help you more especially since you are wanting to scratch build one.

 

That’s where I get a lot of my plan sets from.

 

Edited Saturday at 04:53 PM by GrandpaPhil

[Scottish Guy]

47 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

  Will Cornwall Model Boats (from the UK) deliver to the Highlands?

 

My Billing Boats Roar Ege is from Cornwall Model Boats ^^ and as stupid as it sounds (since the manual is so crappy and the quality of the plywood sheets is so... "low" I still enjoy doing it my way (which is not the way the manual tells) but the way it is intended to do is just confusing.

 

Therefore I will check them out again for some plans especially. But first I finish my Roar Ege and wait what folks say... maybe I´m not good enough for scratch or other than little viking ships . One thing I learned quickly right now, don´t overestimate your own skills, just be honest with yourself and I´m honest with myself. I like the hobby, even if I might not be good enough but skills can be increased by experience and training...

 

Micha

[GrandpaPhil]

Micha,

I have heard that you either really like Billings Boats or you don’t.  
 

I have not built one of their kits.  
 

I really wanted their Vasa and Warrior for a while, but I have a card kit of the Vasa and plans for the Warrior in a book.

 

Your Roar Ege looks fine to me.

 

The most important thing about your first model is to finish it.

 

Learn from your mistakes and move forward, applying that knowledge to your next project.

 

This model was started to see what I could do.

 

Speaking of which:

The masts are glued in place.

 

In accordance with the plans, the foremast is tilted slightly forward and the main and mizzen masts are tilted slightly aft.

 

I made the small single sheave blocks.

With the rigging fittings, I am starting with what I recognize and then researching the ones I don’t and then making them too.

 

This model is a learning experience and I am enjoying it thoroughly!

[Coyote_6]

Man Phil - that looks great!!  You are just rockin' and rollin' on this one.  Awesome work so far.  It is motivating to see your progress.

[GrandpaPhil]

Steve,

 

Thank you very much!

 

Working on more blocks:

The small single and double sheave blocks are made.

 

Working on the larger single sheave blocks at the moment.

 

Next, I’ll make the larger double sheave blocks.

 

Then, I’ll make the fiddle blocks, followed by clew blocks, then the lift blocks, then two ramshead blocks, followed by some shoe blocks and lastly some large deadeye looking things with 5 holes in them.

 

Somewhere along the way I need to make two mouses (I don’t think mice is an appropriate plural for them).

[Old Collingwood]

Some impressive work  you are  doing there  Phil mate   -  not easy  by the  look of it.

 

OC.