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Posted

You were talking about making sails and looking for a material of approximate scale thickness. I am currently working on sails for my 1:48 schooner and I am using the thinnest #00 silkspan. It is 0.0015 inch (0.0381 mm) thick. Here are some scale thicknesses for comparison.

 

Scale          thickness

               inch         mm

1:1          0.0015     0.0381

1:24       0.036       0.9142

1:48       0.072       0.3048

1:64       0.096      2.4384

1:72       0.108       2.7432

1:96       0.144       3.6576

1:200     0.300      7.6200

1:350     0.525    13.335

 

So silkspan is a reasonable scale material for sails at scales from 1:40 to 1:96. It may be a bit too thin for 1:24, and too thick for 1:200.

 

Another thing you might try is parchment paper (used for cooking). It is only 0.0005 inch (0.0127 mm) thick. The resulting scale thicknesses are 1/3 of what is shown for silkspan. It might work for scales down to 1:200. However, it is fairly stiff and might resist any complex shaping - especially for furled sails.

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

Apologies if I'm misunderstanding but isn't that table the wrong way round? I don't think the sail material would get thicker as the scale gets smaller! I don't know what the sailcloth thickness would be at 1:1 but if I assume roughly 1mm, then:

 

Scale mm inch
1:1 1.000 0.0394
1:24 0.042 0.0016
1:48 0.021 0.0008
1:64 0.016 0.0006
1:72 0.014 0.0005
1:96 0.010 0.0004
1:200 0.005 0.0002
1:350 0.003 0.0001
     

Tissue is about 0.05mm so true to scale at 1:24, though it seems to give quite a credible representation at other scales. 

 

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted
2 hours ago, David Chapman said:

Apologies, had a shoulder replacement on my birthday, yesterday. 

 

Belated happy birthday and get well soon.

 

Micha

"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." Jacques - Yves Cousteau.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Build:

"Roar Ege" by Billing Boats - 1:25

On Hold:

n/a

Finished:

n/a

Posted
4 hours ago, David Chapman said:

Apologies, had a shoulder replacement on my birthday, yesterday. 

Ouch, hope you have a really great outcome without too much pain along the way.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted

 Happy Birthday, David. Heal quickly. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
Posted

Wow, it's been 5 months since I last posted. Between my surgery and a River Cruise from Amsterdam to Budapest.

Besides not having our luggage the entire time, the cruise was a blast.

 

Anyway, never really stopped pecking away at the model. I'm well into the rigging and have just started the sails. Per a suggestion from here, I got some Eze Tissue and a bottle of Eze Dope. This is my first venture beyond "all stock". These products are made to cover the wings of model airplanes.

I started by soaking the Tissue in Dope and then draped and smoothed it over the tacky plastic sails. After a second coat and overnight drying I carefully peeled it off. While the finished product is a bit translucent, I'm quite happy with the result compared to the plastic version. And despite how fragile it appears, it's quite durable. It even transferred the texture of the plastic.

What do you think?

 

20240925_154129.thumb.jpg.1a1dd0e4b022b91ce98de6f5634bcb33.jpg20240925_154142.thumb.jpg.0ef7361dd96f3a4c13d4ea298449f8ed.jpg

20240925_154336.thumb.jpg.757ddf642bf9c6d2ee769fb8c2cc7f86.jpg20240928_153853.thumb.jpg.20f6f3cd7d84f792bd86bca906ac15cd.jpg

20240928_153853.jpg

20240925_154336.jpg

Posted

 David, it's good to see you post again, glad you enjoyed the cruise. The sail shapes will look good once trimmed but they're too transparent,IMHO. You need to add color. The link below is to Bruma's Cutty Sark build, his sails are some of the best. 

 

 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

David, I think you’re on to something here. I had fleetingly wondered about using the plastic sails as formers but parked my build, largely because I still don’t have a sails solution, before trying it. Anyway, I agree with Keith, they look very promising in the raw but need a bit of paint and weathering.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

Still working on my Cuddy Sark.  

After trying many color combos, I went with the natural look for the sails.  It's taking forever!shippic.thumb.jpg.78fc83dbac37e4b15f36278046cf9693.jpg.... But the end is in sight.

Maybe by next Christmas I'll be finished. ;)

BTW the blue tape is to mark all the long ends with very visible "flags". I've already broken off the bow sprit and a spar.

Repairs still needed.

Edited by David Chapman
correction
Posted

Looks good! That EzeTissue is tough stuff, I’ve used it while experimenting and it doesn’t tear easily. My issue has been that I can’t get it to stretch or deform. When I’ve made a half-furled sail (albeit a not good enough example) using well dampened tissue, and spread the tissue flat again when I give up, it’s exactly the shape it was when I cut it out.  I haven’t tried using dope, does it make the fabric pliable?

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted

  The Eze tissue is a great idea.  Perhaps it is possible to introduce some opacity to the dope with pigment powder.  Experimentation is in order.  Another method might be (after drying and before mounting) to lightly spray some paint (at a distance) to lessen the translucence.  One could also lightly mark the seams and reef lines as well.

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted
10 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Looks good! That EzeTissue is tough stuff, I’ve used it while experimenting and it doesn’t tear easily. My issue has been that I can’t get it to stretch or deform. When I’ve made a half-furled sail (albeit a not good enough example) using well dampened tissue, and spread the tissue flat again when I give up, it’s exactly the shape it was when I cut it out.  I haven’t tried using dope, does it make the fabric pliable?

The Ezetissue is quite tough but I've had to be very careful about not tearing it. Needed to remake a couple of them due to tears. And as I have been using the now months old pre-molded sails, I have found that the tissue is more difficult to separate from the plastic "molds". Probably going to remake the last handfull+ to make it easier to remove the tissue from the forms.

And no, there is literally zero flexibility to the tissue no matter if I used the Dope or not.  They are all with-dope.  I can see where the tissue would be very difficult for furled sails. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  The Eze tissue is a great idea.  Perhaps it is possible to introduce some opacity to the dope with pigment powder.  Experimentation is in order.  Another method might be (after drying and before mounting) to lightly spray some paint (at a distance) to lessen the translucence.  One could also lightly mark the seams and reef lines as well.

Although I am sans paint sprayer, I tried nearly all of your ideas including graphite with no luck. As time has gone on, I'm happy with the end results.  Not in any frame of mind at this point to experiment further. Would be curious how you or others deal with it. 

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