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Posted

I’m afraid I can’t offer much advice on this Bill. Funnily enough, the sequencing was giving me quite a headache on the Cutty Sark, and I still have to resolve this and finish her off. My gut feeling, applicable to both of us, is that you should go with a plan where breakages are least likely and/or least heart-sinking. I parked the CS partly because my heart did indeed sink when I broke a part for the second time which meant I would have to make a whole new set of that mast and yards. I think breakages when rigging are almost inevitable, when you consider there are so many small parts and lines all over the place. Especially when most of us probably now wear specs so don’t necessarily have everything in the field in focus.

 

In answer to your comment about my SR, don’t hold your breath! Since ‘retiring’ in August my life has exploded into a festival of arty things I’ve always wanted to do, so my ‘making’ time is increasingly taken up with experimenting and learning different media - e.g. I spent much of yesterday learning how to soften and flatten wood veneers, as I want to have a go at basic marquetry, and next week I’ll be trying to apply and resin coat dried, beautiful autumnal-red and gold leaves onto a 3D printed vase. I’m also polishing up previously made objects to go on eBay as it’s nice to have a little trickle of beer money (or cider money in my case). And then I’m making a concentrated effort to progress on the Victory. I’ve almost completed a lovely set of deadeyes and blocks, even if I do say so myself, as per McKay but will be moving back to the hull shortly. But the SR is always on my mind and I’d like to start on this next year.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted

Hi Bill - I’m not speaking from a ton of experience here.  I was 24 when I last rigged a model - rather poorly, by the way.

 

My inclination would be to have all mast sections, tops and yards pre-made and rigged with all of their blocks.    On my current build, I will have a combination of furled and un-furled sails.  Those sails will all be attached to the yards, in advance.  Because I don’t have any safely sheltered area to store the model, as it grows tall, my objective is to rig the model in a year or less.

 

As for sequencing, I think the guiding principles are not making access too difficult for any one line with other lines previously installed, and also working in a way that allows the fore and back stays to always keep the masts straight and in-line with each other.

 

Toward that end, I will probably install all of the lower masts first (shrouds, then fore-stays) working from the mizzen mast forward.  This way, the main shrouds won’t make the setting up of the mizzen fore stay any more difficult than necessary.  And so forth, working my way up the masts one section at a time.  After all of the standing rigging is in place, I will attach the yards, and tackle all of the running rigging.

 

Of course, the biggest un-resolved issue with that approach is how to rig the parrels, with the shrouds in the way.  I’m definitely open to suggestions.

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

Posted

OcCre shows building the complete mast off the ship and also attaching the yards with parrels. Then place the completed mast “tree” in the deck. Once the mast is solid in place then start the stays and shrouds. I have usually found it easier to set the sails on the yards before attaching the yard to the mast and just have the sail rigging lines hang lose at that point. Since I plan to furl all my sails I would think I will need to add the furled sail to the yard before I mount it to the mast which is not yet on the ship. 

Posted
On 10/31/2024 at 10:51 PM, Bill97 said:

Is your 1:144 Wasa the Airfix?

Yes Bill, this is the old Airfix model, the 'Special Edition' version of the kit. I built her 30+ years ago. I did really enjoy the build, and was a great success to compare my model to the original in Wasamuseet, Stockholm. 

Posted (edited)

Two full days work and I have the fore yard sail furled. I have the 6 buntlines coming out the top of the folds that will eventually be rigged through the blocks under the mast top and down to the deck. I also have the sail corners exposed and folded over with an eye for the clew , tack, and sheet lines. Wow there is a lot of stuff tied to what used to be a simple piece of dial rod. 
Interesting question. OcCre has me use a parrel on the fore and main yard. The AOTS book for the Endeavour also shows this. I am not sure that is correct. Longridge’s AOTS says parrels were used on the topsail yard and topgallant. On the Victory the fore yard was supported by a sling and truss pendants. I did a quick look at my SR and see Heller instructed to use a parrel on the fore and main yards? I wonder if the type if ship made a difference in how the yard was secured?  

 

 

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Edited by Bill97
Posted (edited)

Oh definitely Veszett. I am starting that now. I measure a length of .8mm thread to wrap around the mast and come down to the first two deadeyes on the starboard side. I then mark a point on both threads a little bit under the platform (can’t remember nautical name). I remove the thread and serve the section between the marks. I then wrap I back around the mast a serve a bit of the two sides together at the mast to lock it in place. I then do the same with a thread on the port side of the mast. Alternating side to side until I have all the needed shrouds stacked at the mast. As I am typing them I put a piece of tape on the end of each one so I can number them. On this ship it is 1-6 on the fore mast. I will then begin the attachment of the deadeyes and so on.

Edited by Bill97
Posted

That was a curiosity I had further back in this thread. Discussing the sequence different builders use when making their mast. OcCre has me build the entire mast, including the yards, and then insert it in the deck. Since I am furling all my sails I also added them to my yards before attaching to the mast. This is my first time to do it this way as well. In the past I have done it the way you mentioned. 

Posted

Bit of an update on recent accomplishments. I have the furled sails on the bow sprit and foremast. I used a technique I found on line to furl the sails I really I like. It leaves the corners of the sail exposed for later attachment of the clewline and other lines as appropriate. I also have hung the foremast lower shrouds which I will soon start to rig the deadeyes. In preparation for that I mounted the chains I made. Running a line down from the mast to the deadeye on the channel and then further down that site line I got the correct position to anchor the end of each chain. I still need to add the preventer links which are in the paint shop. The nail currently showing in the chain at the hull is just there to hold the link temporarily. Once I add the preventer link I will put the nails in permanently and paint the nail heads. 

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Posted

Ok.  Wow there is a bunch of stuff!  Finished the foremast standing rigging except for the stays. Let’s see what is included on this mast. Of course the lower and top shrouds and ratlines. Lower and upper futtock shrouds. Lower and upper catherpins. Lower and upper tackles. Fully rigged yards. And so much more. Now to the main mast. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My updates are a little slower and further between!  The work I am doing now is slow going. It takes precision and patience on my part. Have the main mast lower shrouds in place and starting the ratlines. I use the method of doing pairs of shrouds alternating first on the starboard side and then port side. The Endeavour has 6 main lower shrouds so that takes 3 pairs on each side. I serve the thread a couple inches in the center where it wraps around the mast. At the deadeyes I use a pair of large staples through the holes to keep the upper and lower deadeyes aligned and equal distant down the channel. Once I have the diagonal line of the shroud I continue that imaginary line down through the chain. I am leaving the “ropes” between the deadeyes lose for now perchance I need any final tiny adjustment later. 

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