Roar Ege by Scottish Guy - Billing Boats - 1:25

[BrochBoating]

3 minutes ago, Scottish Guy said:

 

Hi Simon, when I read and follow the plan indeed. Unfortunately the plan makes step 2 before step 1, that´s why I mistaken glued the entire spine already together before I read that I have to cut out the two drawings (was wondering why there is a mirrored drawing of the assembly on two pages) and glue them onto a board to build each side... after glueing the spine together this plan wouldn´t work anymore lol   so I decided to go the way I do now. Also helps me to get the parts cut out of cherry wood sheets to create a more accurate (orignal build) version of the Skuldelev 3 from scratch. This will take longer but I will post both builds on here, I don´t create a second LOG for the scratch build since theis one is build out of the BB build somehow.

 

Micha

 

Ah gotcha. Can very easily see how that can happen. A great deal of the plans I've seen whilst trying to choose a kit were incredibly poor. Semi acceptable on a cheap kit but lots were far from cheap. I'm sure you'll get there, and if you don't you'll have learnt lots for relatively little money.

 

[Scottish Guy]

Here is the manual Simon and the two pages. This is Fig. 1 (Page 9)

 

 

and this is Fig. 1A (page 10 - as we can see, mirrored to Fig. 1)

 

 

And this is the explanation HOW to do it... unfortunately not connected to the figures but later. So therefore you just go ahead, glue it all together (like the figures show and booom... to late lol

 

 

To be honest, in my humble opinion the text is not even clear about it and somehow contradictionary abput how to do it. I really don´t understand how they want to do it in two halves but then write that you should glue the "keel" (which I got explained is called spine) together (which I did). But maybe it is my understanding or language barrier... I have no clue, it still works for me, so I don´t worry at all, was just a bit more complicated (even if I´m not sure about that).

 

Micha

  

[BrochBoating]

Clear as mud. To me that reads you make a building board (as I think you've done) then paste the two drawings onto that so you look down on those drawings from above, effectively.

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Micha, the only experience that I have with this type of Billing construction is with their Nordland Boat. It wasn’t built in two halves but rather the molds were one piece and mounted upside down on a build board. Since you have glued the two halves of your molds together, maybe you could consider converting your build to an upside down one. By the looks of it you will have to remove everything from the build board to attach the planking. You might have to add some plywood to the molds to extend them so that the stem and the stern clear the base. The molds are just etched to guide you where the planks will sit and will be removed later so should not be glued to anything. I wired my keel ( ? ) to the molds to keep it secure. The link to my Nordland is below. It may give you some ideas although it is a totally different type of boat. 

[Scottish Guy]

9 minutes ago, Paul Le Wol said:

Since you have glued the two halves of your molds together, maybe you could consider converting your build to an upside down one. By the looks of it you will have to remove everything from the build board to attach the planking. You might have to add some plywood to the molds to extend them so that the stem and the stern clear the base. The molds are just etched to guide you where the planks will sit and will be removed later so should not be glued to anything. I wired my keel ( ? ) to the molds to keep it secure. The link to my Nordland is below. It may give you some ideas although it is a totally different type of boat. 

 

Thank you Paul, I might consider a new board with blocks to secure the molds and turn the ship upside down. Sounds more logical than everything else. If the molds will be removed afterwards I´m not certain if I should glue the ribs in already or atatch them just after the planking is done?

But yes, I will throw the "jig" away and build an upside down construction where I use blocks to secure the molds (after making sure they all end up in the same height so the ship will be flush on the board. Maybe I even cut out some new moulds from plywood sheets, should be more stable than extensions.

 

Again, thank you for the advise, I also will have a look at your build.

 

Micha

[Cathead]

Those instructions are startlingly bad for an American manufacturer. Not because Americans are any better than anyone else, but because the English in there reads like the non-native gibberish normally encountered in badly translated foreign manuals.

 

You're doing a good job of being persistent and developing new and interesting ways to meet the kit's challenges.

[Scottish Guy]

5 minutes ago, Cathead said:

Those instructions are startlingly bad for an American manufacturer. Not because Americans are any better than anyone else, but because the English in there reads like the non-native gibberish normally encountered in badly translated foreign manuals.

 

I can tell you, the instructions read sometimes as a Chinese instruction, translated by a Japanese who is originated in India and then tried to let his French wife translate it. (Sorry for the rant but I would have expected at least a proper instruction manual, but these few pages, not even in order properly and mist likely only copies is a bit disappointing. But I go on with it... challenge accepted

 

8 minutes ago, Cathead said:

You're doing a good job of being persistent and developing new and interesting ways to meet the kit's challenges.

 

Thank you for that kind words Eric. Gives me a boost but yes, challenge accepted, I don´t like giving up, some tell me it´s my crux, I think it´s a gift. I think it depends on the point of view lol but my grandpa told me all the time, when there is a will there is a way... you just have to find it...

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Four *

 

Change of Plan - The Jig needs Adjustments

 

Since you good folks suggested I should turn the ship around to put the planking on I needed another approach for my self made (crappy) jig. I took two sticks and took the molds (4 and 6A / 6F) off the spine again. Then I glued the molds in a 90 degree angle to the sticks, beginning from the center mold (4), waited till dried up then glued on mold 6A again in 90 degree angle and the required 73 mm from part 4. After this was dried I glued mold 6F also 73 mm from part 4 onto the 2 sticks. After everything was dried up I checked the distances between the molds on the sticks and on the bottom (in real on the top). 

 

Then I put the molds 9A and 9F loose onto the sticks in 103 mm each from molds 6A and 6F. Since they will bend the beam slightly I didn’t glue those on, I just wanted to make sure the beams are not too short. 
Then I attached the entire skeleton onto the spine in the jig. Put the molds 9A and 9F in place and pressed the skeleton in place with the molds clasping onto the spine with the catches on the bottom. Mold 4 fits in snuggly onto the mast support and keeps the skeleton secured in place. 
 

 

Now I have to build a jig or block that lifts the entire build up enough that the stem and stern are not touching the ground. That will be my next step, so that I can turn the entire build upside down to put the planking on. 
 

Micha

Edited April 21 by Scottish Guy

[Knocklouder]

It's unbelievable the amount of help and info there is here. Looks like your well on your way to a fine ship. Nice work. I'll  look forward too seeing it finished.  Good luck on your journey. 

Bob M.

[Scottish Guy]

Just now, Knocklouder said:

It's unbelievable the amount of help and info there is here. Looks like your well on your way to a fine ship. Nice work. I'll  look forward too seeing it finished.  Good luck on your journey. 

 

Thank you Bob, I need all the kind words right now as a boost . I didn´t expect it that complicated (but my own fault, to chose the wrong kit from the wrong manufacturer) but I love the challenge, keeps my brain working and fresh lol

 

I will try my best to make it a nice and good looking model but I don´t make nay promises

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Four *

 

The Planking is my Crux or How a Plan might not work out

Since I couldn’t make out a proper jig for upside down frame (spine with the molds) I misused two cans of my preferred beverage (hope everyone will forgive me, especially the manufacturer of the drink). 
 

I´m not sure why Billing Boats has chosen this strange way to put the planks onto the sheets the way they did but it doesn’t make sense to me and a proper description how to put the planks on is not existing at all. There is no understandable reason why all planks except one are put on the sheets in the same way around, except the first (starting plank which immediately is attached to the spine) is the opposite way around.

 

So I cut it out, turned it around and glued it to the frame (even if I’m not sure it’s the right way around now), at least the end quoted as F is now glued to the end of the spine stated with the F. The next plank is the way round it’s quoted in the plan, F to F and A to A. Which somehow make the first plank looking a bit odd. Don’t know, I just go on right now. 
 

 

I would appreciate if someone notices a fault or wrong doing to mention it to me so I might be still able to change it now before it’s way to late to change anything.  Thank you guys for being my eyes here ^^
 

Micha 

Edited April 24 by Scottish Guy

[Paul Le Wol]

Hey Micha, looking good. If you haven’t already, now that you have a few planks attached on each side maybe you could flip it over and check to see how the notched frames sit against them. Perhaps even attach them. These plywood planks seem to have a mind of their own.😀

[Scottish Guy]

27 minutes ago, Paul Le Wol said:

Hey Micha, looking good. If you haven’t already, now that you have a few planks attached on each side maybe you could flip it over and check to see how the notched frames sit against them. Perhaps even attach them. These plywood planks seem to have a mind of their own.😀

 

Thank you Paul, will give it a go later today. I hope they don´t have their own mind - I would hate that, but yeah, will check it out and maybe attach the bigger ones like 7A / 7F and 5A / 5F. Might give the planking even a bit more stability, it´s a bit wobly between the molds.

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

* Sideline *

 

The 1:20 Skuldelev or How I would have guessed the proper Way to do it

 

Today I got the Billing Boats kit No. 456 called “The Skukdelev Ships” in the scale 1:20. I can’t find when this was launched or distributed but it seems quite a long time ago. The set seems complete (when I check the content of the box with the manual. The approach to build it is complete different to the one from the Roar Ege (but most like my approach of the Riar Ege 😂). However, I paid GBP 30.00 for the set since the seller couldn’t get rid of the set and just wanted it off the shelf. So I took it. I won’t build the kit before the Roar Ege is finished and maybe hit even before murph scratch build is finished. But yeah, a nice kit to have on my shelf now. Looking forward to it.

 

 

Micha

Edited April 25 by Scottish Guy

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Four *

 

The Orgy of Super Glue or How to do the Port Side  and then start with Starboard Side

 

Hello my fellow model builder, here we have now finished one side (I think it should be port). I started now with the second side (should be therefore starboard) I hope since I’m not yet sure where the bow and where the stern is (have to check the instructions again) but I’m certain that I’m correct with my sides.

 

 

Here some closer looks to the planking (stern)…
 

Center part of the hull…

 

 

 

and the bow…

 

Much closer look to the bow and how the planks came together.

 

 

Also a look inside the ship from stern…

 

 

to the Center of the ship (mast support)…

 

 

to the bow…

 

 

Unfortunately do my planks not end up equally so I have to sand it nicely up. Also some of the planks are warping badly and the glue seems not to do a proper job…

 

 

 

Starting in starboard with the planking…

 

 

trying to align them properly with the mirrored plank (part 11) on the port side.

 

Micha

Edited April 26 by Scottish Guy

[GrandpaPhil]

You got this!

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Your build had me open my stashed Roar Ege kit and examine everything.  I kept the printed veneer sheets from the old 1:20 kit, which was planned to be built bilaterally, upside down on a jig tall enough that the prow and stern cleared.  You've worked out a jig along the same lines, and just needed cribbage (the beverage cans, but could have been a block of wood) for the ends to clear.

 

  Now one might plank both sides together from the centerline out on such a jig - and I think that bilateral symmetry might be more easily managed doing it that way.  'Can't say I'm fond of doing the halves separately and then gluing together, but the 1:25 kit does have advantages of all the laser cutting - as the 1:20 version must be cut out on a jigsaw.  True, there are peculiarities with supplying plywood, yet many kits do these days to avoid the warpage/splitting problems the old kits could have over a long time in storage under varying humidity and temperature (like in an attic or a shed !)

 

  The 'odd' way many parts were laid out on the sheets most likely had something to do with the size their material was available in, and conservation of stock was a factor ... so careful study of the plan and light pencil marking or segregation in marked bags after release from the sheet is advisable.  Another technique to limit or avoid part breakage might be to cut in from the sides of the stock sheet with a jig saw to partially release components.  This will also greatly reduce stress getting everything free.

 

  True, the instructions might be better - but there are many languages included since these kits are sold internationally - thus the sheer volume of printed material would be greater with additional verbiage duplicated in however many dialects are represented.  On the Woody Joe kit of the Khufu barge that I completed ('just fell in love with the sexy lines of that classic barge), the instructions were ONLY in Japanese ... and I had to use a translator app on a smartphone many times, because the output kept morphing (sometimes in surprising ways).  Then I did my best compilation and printed that by hand on the instruction sheets, as well as work my way through an entire virtual build to understand things in advance before touching any of the wood.

  Still, there were surprises along the way, as can be seen in the build log I made.

 

  Your work is certainly paving the way for any who follow.  The idea of doing the prow and stern the same way the 1:20 kit is done, but doing it on the 1:25 kit is tempting.  I'll only need to reduce the outlines from the 1:20 kit to 1:25, then cut out the 'built up' ends of the vessel in the same way the original went together.  Then the planks on the 1:25 kit will have to be trimmed to fit between the built up ends of the boat.  The Khufu kit mentioned above also had a 'building jig', but one that incorporated the ship frames as well (through clever laser cutting - leaving several attachment points so that most of the building frames could be later snapped off, leaving behind the the pieces already joined to the hull planks.  I think I can devise a way of inletting the Roar Ege "ribs" into the building frame bottoms so that they are pinned in place and subsequently the pins can be removed to free the building frame.

 

  Clear sailing, and a favorable wind off your stern quarter !

 

  

[Scottish Guy]

7 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

Now one might plank both sides together from the centerline out on such a jig - and I think that bilateral symmetry might be more easily managed doing it that way.  'Can't say I'm fond of doing the halves separately and then gluing together, but the 1:25 kit does have advantages of all the laser cutting - as the 1:20 version must be cut out on a jigsaw.

 

Hi Johnny, thank you for this nice comment. I have to say, afterwards, since I did it the way I did I must say. I wouldn´t do it again this way. I would use the jig as I did again for sure, that idea is much better than the way BB explains it to do. The two sides build and then glue it together is not ideal. The jig I build works well but I would next time do both sides at the same time to maintain equality in the planking. I noticed slight differences in the sides right now where the lines look ok in each side, but when looking at the ship from above you see that they are not exactly mirrored. But that is the learning effect and that is why this LOG might be helpful to others, to learn by my mistakes.
Again, I would always build the ship again with a hig as I did, not both sides separately, but then I would advise to plank both sides at the same time to adjust the equality of the planks on both sides.

 

7 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

Your work is certainly paving the way for any who follow.  The idea of doing the prow and stern the same way the 1:20 kit is done, but doing it on the 1:25 kit is tempting.

 

Thank you for this kind and polite words Johnny, I really appreciate that. They help me to keep my mind on it (it can be challenging as it is my first wooden build) and gives me a confidence boost.

 

Micha

[AnobiumPunctatum]

The Skuldelev ship shows the same ship as the Roar Ege. Skuldelev 3 is the original wreck, which they found and preserved. Roar Ege is a replica which they have build in the 80th of the last century (if I remember right)

This kit was my first wooden kit ever as I was a child. You have to cut each plank with a saw. Now the same kit is lying in my stash and waiting.

Perhaps one day I find the time to build the model again.

[Scottish Guy]

22 minutes ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

The Skuldelev ship shows the same ship as the Roar Ege. Skuldelev 3 is the original wreck, which they found and preserved. Roar Ege is a replica which they have build in the 80th of the last century (if I remember right)

 

I know the history of the Skuldelevs, that`s why I have choosen the model kit. Unfortunately I found the 1:20 kit later than the new version called "Roar Ege". The builds differ completely in the way of being build (even if I have somewhat choosen the Skuldelev way to build the Roar Ege). I have seen the replica which was built in 1982 but decomissioned in 2007 and is now on display. In 2017 it was again rebuild as Estrid Byrding. Skuldelev 1 was rebuild in 1999 as Ottkar. Skuldelev 6 was rebuild in 1998 as Kraka Fyr and in 2010 with a name I can´t recall. Skuldelev 5 has been rebuilt in 1990 / 1991 as Helge Ask.

Good luck in finding the time to build the amazing little ship. I´m always impressed what the vikings could archive with this little ships compared to some bigger ships from the other countries like England or Spain.

 

Schöne Grüsse an meine gebürtige Heimat (Düsseldorf).

 

Micha 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Micha,

 

Düsseldorf is close where I live. I thought that also the Skuldelev kit was in 1/25 and has the same skale as the Oseberg kit.

The 5 Skuldelev ships as models were a long time a dream. But now I am more interested in English Ship Sloops of the late 18th century.

[Scottish Guy]

1 minute ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

Düsseldorf is close where I live.

 

That`s why I wrote that you should send some greetings to my old hometown (city).

 

 

1 minute ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

I thought that also the Skuldelev kit was in 1/25 and has the same skale as the Oseberg kit.

 

The Roar Ege kit is in 1:25 scale, the Skuldelev kit is in 1:20 scale and yes, I agree the Skuldelev 5 would be a nice kit, trying to find some plans / blueprints for it. Skuldelev 1 is also very interesting as a long distance going ship (Atlantic crossing).

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

Just a wee update folks, I´m still building (nope, have not given up) but I returned to work (restricted duties). Which means I´m working 0800 - 1800 and that takes it toll. My built went further by planking the other side but I didn´t take much pictures of the progress, sorry for that. To be honest, is only 4 planks but I will keep you guys entertained with some pictures later today.

 

Thank you all for following the build and I wish that the build and the process of all will end up nicely to look at since this is my first wooden model kit. Still the Billing Boats "The Skuldelevs" in 1:20 in the shelf and the 1959 Revell Cutty Sark (plastic) is on its way. And yes, I not gave up yet as well on my scratch build but this is a bit postponed till I found a proper solution for the hull shape since designer and manufacturer are not very supportive about any kind of line drawings or shapes.

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Five *

 

The Orgy continues

or

Why do Ships have two Sides to plank…

 

Since the last post of the ship some time went by and my situation changed a bit. Work took over most of my day time now (how dares it) but I kept glueing planks on the ship. Only one and a half is missing.

 

This is part 16 (plank) secured to dry half way on. 

 

 

I never expected to be in need of sooo many clamps lol. 
 

 

For the bow and the stern I prefer the metal clamps since they are thinner on the tip and therefore fit better into the narrow spaces inside, also the keep the planks tighter in place.

 

 

There is quite some tension on the planks as you can see the gap on the unglued side. Gladly the planks are flexible enough to be bend properly to be fitted on after the other side is dried up.

 

 

Keeping the unglued side in place…

 

 

After 15 minutes of waiting and giving the glue time to dry and bind up I glued the other side on. Unfortunately it still takes a lot of clamps to keep it in place. The tension is higher than I expected. Again metal clamps in the narrower spots to keep the plank properly in place. 
 

 

Part 17 (plank) glued on one side. Procedure is the same, a bit repetitive the entire job but that is what it is.

 

I noticed that the sides (port and star) might not be mirrored but a wee bit different. Not sure yet. It’s still a learning process. As I wrote in an earlier post, I would do it definitely different the next time. I would glue each side the same time so it’s easier to measure the distances to the spine and between the planks easier. So the sides would look mirrored properly.

 

On the other hand, in real life the ships wouldn’t have been that accurate because they wouldn’t have had the tools (long level and proper measuring tape) to properly mirror their planks. 
 

 

And again there is the tension noticeable on the opposite side. 
 

 

I will try to put the last plank (part 18) on today so I can start sanding the bow and the stern. They look quite weird with the planks stacked up. I will sand them a bit more rounded and smoother, also the edges of the planks I will smoothen and even them a bit to give a more neat and smooth look.

 

Micha 

Edited May 3 by Scottish Guy

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Six *

 

Planking Galore

or

The Hull rests on the Stand - finally 

 

I just thought I will finish the planking today so I can start with sanding over the weekend. I like smooth surfaces and especially a smooth bow and stern. Unfortunately the spine / keel is warping because of my planking. Meaning the bow bends to the port and the stern to the star side. Also the planking is not exactly mirrored, some planks are not exactly equally set in height on both sides which will maybe cause issues to get the ribs in. I will use the little nails to connect the planks to the ribs - at least that’s my plan. 

View from atop onto the hull, unfortunately you can see some gaps where I put the glue not properly onto the planks. Will fix that when sanded and ribs in. 

 

 

View from the bow and you can see the warping to the port side. You can also see that the lines of the planks are not equal / mirrored. I think I have still a lot to learn. 
 

 

A view from an angle just to show the lines. I’m not happy with that… can’t change it anymore…

 

 

The hull placed onto the stand (which I don’t really like).

 

 

The rest of my supper / dinner…

 

 

Micha

Edited May 3 by Scottish Guy

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  These are good lessons, which I watch with interest ... since eventually I'll get to my kit.  I see how the planks at bow and stern 'stack up' on top of each other.  Perhaps as they are laid, one can sand them down to thin considerably at the ends.  That way, the 'stack-up' would be much less bulky.  Planking both sides simultaneously was already noted, so perhaps there IS some 'method' to Billing having each side built separately against a rigid flat surface.  That way, the hull (when joined) would be straight.

 

  Still, there may be a way of constructing a building jig having greater stiffness that would aLso limit lateral movement of the keel when building.  I'll have to engineer something.

[Scottish Guy]

13 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

I see how the planks at bow and stern 'stack up' on top of each other.  Perhaps as they are laid, one can sand them down to thin considerably at the ends.

 

Hi Johnny, that´s what I intend to do, sanding the bow and stern smoother and thinner. It looks a bit very bulky tbh. I also want to give all the planks a smoother surface, not much just to get rid of the excess of glue that is visible on some planks.

 

16 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

Planking both sides simultaneously was already noted, so perhaps there IS some 'method' to Billing having each side built separately against a rigid flat surface.  That way, the hull (when joined) would be straight.

 

After all it makes sense to do the halves of the hull but I think my way is still a bit easier since the clamps are already tight to get in because of some really narrow spaces at the bow and stern. When the hlaf is laying flat on the MDF board (which is suggested in the instructions) then it will be even harder to get the clamps on. But that is my humble opinion about it. I liked my way to build the hull, I just would build a better jig for sure, where the bow and stern are secured to prevent them from moving / warping and I would definitely glue the planks on each side at the same time, for example Part 11 (first plank to the spine) I would glue on both sides at the same time and so on... so the hull "grows" on both sides simultaneously.

 

21 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

These are good lessons, which I watch with interest ... since eventually I'll get to my kit.

 

Thank you Johnny, it boosts my confidence that someone is interested in my LOG and that it might help you to avoid mistakes or errors to make on your own build or someone elses future build.

 

Micha

[Jaager]

On 5/3/2024 at 4:41 PM, Scottish Guy said:

Part 11 (first plank to the spine)

About 1000 years later, and on carvel planking, this plank is the garboard plank. 

OK, I just checked Leather  (CLINKER BOATBUILDING,  John Leather, IMP, 1973)  and  Simmons (LAPSTRAKE BOATBUILDING , Walter Simmons, IMP, 1978)

 and they both name it the garboard.

If it is any consolation, here is a quote from Simmons:  "The garboard that I am considering at the moment is a plank with considerable fore and aft twist, and it requires more work to fit properly than any other plank on the boat.  To make it fit to the rabbet as well as to fixed lining marks can stir up ulcers."

 

Michael,  are you considering a scratch build of a viking boat?  If so, I have some factors about the planking that different from what Billing and Amati burden a builder with.

 

So far, this kit seems to be fulfilling its primary purpose,  your introduction into all this,  and a beginning indication for what you need to learn.  You should probably use tunnel vision and view this kit as a unique world unto itself.

 

 

[Keith Black]

 Micha, this is your first build, not you last. Very few new modelers hit home runs on their first build. I daresay the majority of first builds go into the rubbish bin or are set alight as was my first model when I was very much younger. Take this build for what it is, a learning experience that will make your second build easier and more enjoyable. 

 

 

[Scottish Guy]

10 hours ago, Jaager said:

About 1000 years later, and on carvel planking, this plank is the garboard plank. 

 

Thank you, every day ia a learning day I will keep this in mind for the next build.

 

 

10 hours ago, Jaager said:

If it is any consolation, here is a quote from Simmons:  "The garboard that I am considering at the moment is a plank with considerable fore and aft twist, and it requires more work to fit properly than any other plank on the boat.  To make it fit to the rabbet as well as to fixed lining marks can stir up ulcers."

 

Again thank you Dean, I think I made a lot of mistakes with this build but I´m determined to finish this build. This is a learning episode and as this I take that build. We are mend to make mistakes, I made mistakes so yes it is the way to learn.

 

 

10 hours ago, Jaager said:

Michael,  are you considering a scratch build of a viking boat?  If so, I have some factors about the planking that different from what Billing and Amati burden a builder with.

 

I would appreciate if you could share the factors about the difference with me Dean. I´m willing to learn and I´m willing to do the build again, I don´t mind even buying the BB Roar Ege again just to make it properly again.

 

 

10 hours ago, Jaager said:

So far, this kit seems to be fulfilling its primary purpose,  your introduction into all this,  and a beginning indication for what you need to learn.  You should probably use tunnel vision and view this kit as a unique world unto itself.

 

For sure it fulfills it´s purpose, it made me amke mistakes and learning of this mistakes. But what do you mean by using the tunnel vision? I don´t understand this one. Sorry for that.

 

Micha