Lotus type 78 by gsdpic - Tamiya - 1/12th scale - PLASTIC

[gsdpic]

I've started on the nerve wracking decals.  Those thin stripes on these lotus cars are tricky but so far it is going well.

 

And yes, I decided to do the #6 Gunnar Nilsson car instead of the #5 Mario Andretti, just to be different.

 

I think the front wing piece has all its decals on.  The large piece in the middle is the one I need to complete in order to complete the tub and proceed with the next steps in the build  (though I could detour to work on the engine if I need a break from decals).  I think there are 10 more decals, 5 on each side, on that large middle piece.

 

On the right are some little squeeze scissors.   I got those as part of the micro-mark bundle for making your own inkjet printed decals.  I thought it was sort of a gimmick, but now I have learned better.  Those little scissors are great for cutting out decals.  These older Tamiya decals seem to have a lot of clear decal material around the printed parts so at least on some of them I have been carefully cutting very close to the printed decal and that is much easier with these small squeeze scissors.

[gsdpic]

One thing about doing decals, it is easy to see the progress from one picture to the next.  I felt like when I was working on the tub all the pictures started to look the same.  I now have the decals on the left side of the car pretty much complete.  In the picture below, the middle part of the side pod is just taped on.  The stripe decals there were all one piece spanning two parts of the model.  So I just taped it together for now.  Once the decal is completely dry, I will carefully cut it and then untape the piece.  I believe that piece is meant to remain unglued and removable to display the details within the side pod.

 

I've also noticed that these old Tamiya decals do not like the decal setting solution, even the less strong micro-set.  I have a few decals that have some permanent wrinkles.  For now, I am just using water to wet the model surface before placing the decal and while maneuvering it into position.

 

Now I just need to do these same 13 decals on the right side of the car, then the decals on the rear wing and a few other miscellaneous ones.

[gsdpic]

Thanks to everyone for the likes.  I've now completed all the body panel decals.  Next I will probably alternate between working on the engine and applying several layers of clear coat (Tamiya X-22 plus Mr color leveling thinner) to the body panels.

 

[gsdpic]

I've done several coats of X-22 gloss clear on all the body panels, they are looking good.  I've also started working on the engine and gearbox, as shown below.  I did hit one snag: on each side of the engine near the bottom are a series of 3 or 4 parts, oil or water pumps I believe.  Somehow I lost one of the pieces that make up the mechanism on the right side of the engine.  I was able to scratch build a piece to go in its place.  Not an exact duplicate by any means but no one will notice.

[Canute]

Gary, nice work with all the decals. You might want to use distilled water for decalling. Tap water may have "extra" ingredients that can affect the process. A gallon jug is a dollar or so at your local pharmacy.

[gsdpic]

1 minute ago, Canute said:

Gary, nice work with all the decals. You might want to use distilled water for decalling. Tap water may have "extra" ingredients that can affect the process. A gallon jug is a dollar or so at your local pharmacy.

Thanks!  I swear as I was doing this, I wondered to myself if distilled water would leave fewer water spots.  Next time I'll try it.   I also think I should wear gloves more frequently when handling the body parts to leave fewer finger prints.

[gsdpic]

Thanks as always for the likes or for just looking in.  I've reached, or almost reached, two different milestones.   I have completed the main tub, except for instrument panel.  I am thinking about adding some connections/wiring harness to the back of the panel and that is why I have not mounted it yet.   On the second picture of the tub, in the cockpit you can see a small lever, I believe to adjust the suspension.  That lever was not connected to anything so I added some thin brass rods running fore and aft.  The yellow wire to the distributor was another addition based on a photo I saw.  The kit suggested using the same black wire as for the spark plugs.

 

Next up is to continue working on the gear box and all the rear suspension bits that are attached to it, as well as the exhaust.

[FriedClams]

More beautiful and clean work, Gary!  Nice!

 

Gary

[gsdpic]

Thanks, Gary, for the compliment and to everyone else for the likes.

 

I continue to work on the drive train.  I've attached the engine and gearbox, and done some of the bits that support the rear suspension, but there is more work to be done there.  I am not crazy about the two springs that serve as the hoses between the air scopes and brake cooling duct. I might need to rethink that.  I could at least shorten the spring and I think that would help but I am considering other options as well.

 

[Egilman]

9 hours ago, gsdpic said:

I am not crazy about the two springs that serve as the hoses between the air scopes and brake cooling duct. I might need to rethink that.  I could at least shorten the spring and I think that would help but I am considering other options as well.

Yeah it fits the bill as what it is supposed to represent mechanically, but not visually.... I've done this for the flexible tubing used to connect up intake and exhaust tubing on truck models.... Made my own coils to represent the tube, attached them to the fittings on each end then painted them with micro kristal clear once they are installed in position... When it dries, it shrinks into the gaps between the coils and is completely clear and paintable making it look like a solid tube... Add the clamps on either end and voila! A perfect representation of scale air ducting....

 

The other option is to fill the insides with something like rice paper dyed black so you can't see through the coils from a distance, but it doesn't come out as good as painting them with Kristal Clear...

[DocRob]

Very nice progress Gary, the engine looks extremely good. Is this net over the air intakes a solid part? I have to build the same engine for my Brabham BT44 and have added a set of metal trumpets and real mesh from MFH. 
One thing about decals, if they are taking the usual solutions not so well, applied heat with a hairdryer may help, but best to be tested on a spare decal.

Cheers Rob

[gsdpic]

8 hours ago, Egilman said:

Yeah it fits the bill as what it is supposed to represent mechanically, but not visually.... I've done this for the flexible tubing used to connect up intake and exhaust tubing on truck models.... Made my own coils to represent the tube, attached them to the fittings on each end then painted them with micro kristal clear once they are installed in position... When it dries, it shrinks into the gaps between the coils and is completely clear and paintable making it look like a solid tube... Add the clamps on either end and voila! A perfect representation of scale air ducting....

 

The other option is to fill the insides with something like rice paper dyed black so you can't see through the coils from a distance, but it doesn't come out as good as painting them with Kristal Clear...

Thanks.  I had thought about trying some PVA but had not thought of the micro kristal clear, which is very similar but a bit thicker.  I have some of that stuff, used mostly for instrument panel gauges, so maybe I'll give it a try.  I did shorten both springs by about an eighth of an inch and that also helped.  Hmm, I also have some photo etch hose clamps that I could add to see if that looks good.

 

 

5 hours ago, DocRob said:

Very nice progress Gary, the engine looks extremely good. Is this net over the air intakes a solid part? I have to build the same engine for my Brabham BT44 and have added a set of metal trumpets and real mesh from MFH. 
One thing about decals, if they are taking the usual solutions not so well, applied heat with a hairdryer may help, but best to be tested on a spare decal.

Cheers Rob

Thanks, and yes on this model it is a solid part which I painted flat black then highlighted the screen texture by dry brushing some silver.  I thought about trying to make a replacement out of some real metal screen material and also saw that MFH had some parts as well.   But on this car, that screen ends up covered by the air scoop that is above/behind the cockpit so I did not bother.