Chesapeake Double Kayak by Bryan Woods - Midwest Products - 1:12

[Bryan Woods]

 

I was planning on building the Nonsuch 30 next. But yesterday when I went to the post office, to mail the Peterboro canoe to some friends out west. The post master asked “what’s inside” . After I replied, they said they liked canoes:-) I said “what about kayaks “ They replied back, We have those too. So now I get to build this one with a home waiting for it.  I have little room to work and really no room at all for for fnished models. 
 

First steps are building the strong back. I followed directions and crossed pinned the strongback rails on top of the plan.

 

 

Next the frames were glued. They were not labeled, 1,3,and 5 were easy to pick out,  but 2 and 4 looked pretty much the same until you laid them together. One of them was a tiny bit larger, maybe 1mm. I measured the frames on the side view of the plan and one was a bit smaller. But still not completely convinced, I laid the frames on the spine with the slots aligned, and the larger one went where I thought the smaller was to go:-)

 

Frames hopefully are in the correct place:-)  

 

 

Next the spine, frames 1,3 and 5 may need built up the be flush with the bottom of the spine.

 

 
I’ll show that side on the next entry.

[Knocklouder]

Going to tag along on this one,, nice work my friend.       

Bob M.

[Jim Lad]

That looks an interesting build, Bryan.

 

John

[Bryan Woods]

Next step was to glue the sheer clamps and the chine clamps ( that’s another word I’ll have to  look up, if I want to use it )  to the notches in the frames.

 

 

Only frame 4 lined up with the bottom on the spine. I added wood to frames 2 and 3  to reach the spine The kayak is inverted until it gets planked.

 

 

Here’s where I started building them up.

 

 

The sheer and chine clamps need to be sanded down flush with frames.

 

The bottom angles up to each side from the spine.

 

 

On the port side I’ve added a piece of wood, and will sand it down to give me more surface to glue down the plank.

 

0n the sides, the only way I could tell how much to sand. Was to keep an eye on the width  of the bottom of the chine clamp.

 

 

I’m still checking over the fairing job, and still need to add the the wood at the bow and stern. 

 

 

 

 

My work area is unbearably hot, I’ve been doing to sanding in the rocking chair on the porch. That’s drops of sweat on my the mat. I didn’t take a lot of time to these pics.

Here’s the bottom plank just laying where it goes.

 

 

[Bryan Woods]

I finished adding wood at the bottom of the bow and stern.

 

 

 Used the supplied 1” material for the bow and stern blocks, to make a sanding block for the ends of the kayak.

 

 

 

After gluing the 3 center frames I turned it over. 
 

 

Before gluing the next plank.

 

Then glued it he center frame and worked towards both ends.

 

 

I used a knife to trim the excess wood off. Then sanded flush with the chime and sheer clamps.

 

 

Next the two side planks will be installed the same way as the bottom.

 

Edited August 21 by Bryan Woods

[Jim Lad]

She's coming along very nicely.

 

John

[Knocklouder]

Looks great Bryan,  she be gliding down the river in no time 

Bob M.

[Bryan Woods]

Both side planks went on easily.

 

 

I then trimmed and sanded to overhanging planks at the bottom.

 

 

Next the hull was cut loose from the strongback.

 

 

The next step is gluing the bow and stern blocks on.

 

 

I got to say I’m a little nervous at carving these ends. 

[Jim Lad]

That planking has gone on very nicely.

 

John

[Bryan Woods]

Thank you John, on this build I’ve spent a lot of the time focusing on sanding the edges, trying not to change the shape of the hull.

[Knocklouder]

You did an awesome job my friend.        Bob M.

[Bryan Woods]

Bow block glued on this morning.

 

Edited August 25 by Bryan Woods

[Bryan Woods]

The blocks on the bow and stern turned out to be  a lot easier then I was expecting.

 

 

Here’s the stern before and after.

 

 

 

I still have a bit of sanding to do before I’m ready to install the deck. It’s made of beech plywood I think. It’s really stiff and the char is so black and messy. It gets on my hands then easily transferred in forms looking similar to fingerprints, who would guess:-) I dampened the deck leaving the char on. I will trim it off with a knife after it’s installed. I held it down on the hull with rubber bands to shape it.

 

I’m planning on staining the entire boat. I have tried to be careful with the glue. I’m sure it will show up in some places.  Here I did three samples of stuff I have on hand. 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

You've done a very neat job of that carving!

 

John

[yvesvidal]

Fantastic job on the carving of the bow and stern.

 

Staining or painting? I understand it is difficult to let go and hide all that beautiful wood. However, because is it mostly basswood, it will require a lot of sanding and preparation to make it look good. Personally, if you go with the staining, I would take the light color (right choice).

 

Yves

[king derelict]

Looks very good. Great work shaping the end blocks 

alan

[Bryan Woods]

To install the deck I glued first the center spine at the middle frame. Then the spine from there to bow and then to stern. After all that had dried, I glued both sides from the bow up to the first frame.

 

 

After that had set a bit, I glued from the stern up to the next frame. The center was done last.

 

 

i used a infant medicine syringe with a micro tip and yellow wood glue. I also used the tips on the medium brown CA for the planks on the bottom and sides. Mainly because there was not many way to clamp, that I could think of.

 

 

 

i’ll do a little more sanding before I start to finish it.