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Posted

Not sure how accurate, but I am pleased with Tamiya XF-50 as the Deck Blue, and the Tamiya AS-8 rattle can for 5-N.  (These are 1/700 scale)

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Steve

 

San Diego Ship Modelers Guild

Nautical Research Guild


Launched:    USS Theodore Roosevelt, CVN 71 (1/720, Plastic)

                       USS Missouri, BB 63 (1/535 Plastic) 

                       USS Yorktown, CV 5 (1/700, Plastic)

 

In Dry Dock:  Prince de Neufchatel, New York 1812 (1/58, Wood)

                        USS Enterprise, CVAN 65 (1/720, Plastic)

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

More photoetch today. The kits photoetch isn’t great, there are so many pieces that are too long and so I ended up cutting the railings into different segments. Annoying, but it worked:

IMG_7541.thumb.jpeg.524b336b40bca6e74531e5640afafff7.jpegIMG_7540.thumb.jpeg.1941415c82e63ecda41e5c7b4218019f.jpegIMG_7538.thumb.jpeg.506739caa0c1c9567a4edf20747af7f1.jpegIMG_7537.thumb.jpeg.0a6d96a35166aa7378590500809d8418.jpeg

IMG_7539.thumb.jpeg.0868eda489b7966beea9c4519beefbae.jpegAs for the catapult, how does the cradle fold? There are four little foldable tabs:

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Work hours: 73 hrs

 

Edited by Boeing774
Posted (edited)

During the break from Jan to Jun I managed to get my hands on after market sets for not only a wooden deck but also PE gun tubs. Here’s the first half of the deck and tubs installed:

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At the same time I’ve been experimenting with weathering on my Sullivans, which I’ve been building along side Alaska. I like the results and although the salt streaks are hidden by the light, rest assured, they exist:

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Your thoughts?

Lastly, a photo from a couple days ago of most of the main subassemblies stacked together:

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Edited by Boeing774
Posted (edited)

Some more progress, the wood deck has finally been fitted and the hull primed. I used Mr Aqueous Surfacer, but in a spray can, which I used since it was much easier to cover larger areas, but also because I didn’t have the glass jar ones. I also skipped completely priming the gun tubs because I didn’t want to lose out the wooden deck detail. I might skip priming the superstructure because spray canning it might make me lose detail. I heard that not using a primer makes the paint flake off the PE, does varnish help seal the paint?

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Some blemishes from dust and paint sticking, to be dealt with:

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Work hours: 144 hrs

Edited by Boeing774
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Finally back, grabbed a couple models from the Tamiya store in Tokyo.

 

On 8/3/2025 at 8:34 PM, ddp said:

warm water with dish detergent, rubbing alcohol or both then sun light for 30 plus minutes.

I'm assuming using a towel soaked in the warm water works so that I don't have to soak the model in it?

 

On 8/30/2025 at 1:15 AM, Amphibious0311 said:

I love this. This is some clean work. 

Thanks I've also been following along with your Missouri build, since I have the Veryfire Iowa kit stashed away.

Posted

I use Zap-a-gap glues, the green and purple versions.

 

I think the way I try to reduce the amount of excess is by sanding it down afterwards. For instance, with some PE ladders on my ship, I'll first set them in place with tape, use the thin, purple version (which will naturally run along the entire length of the ladder), and then sand down whatever excess there is. I think this works for most things, but I've seen some models where the ladders stick out and have tiny contact points, so the glue won't stick as well. Here I think sanding would be trickier since you'd have to sand under the ladders. I haven't encountered these, but maybe an accelerator would work.

 

As for control, something I find works very well for me is "stabilizing" my hand with other things. I'll put be ring and pinky fingers on the table or rest it on my other hand hold the model. It may or may not work well for you, but have a go with it I suppose :D.

Posted
On 9/5/2025 at 7:58 AM, Amphibious0311 said:

What glue are you using for your PE? And how are you managing to do it so cleanly? 
 

im using a 26 gauge needle and I feel like even with good control I’m getting some excess CA glue.

You can different materials for apply glue, like a pin or a single fiber from a paintbrush. If its gel type it can be applied easily

Sometimes if excess glue is allied i lightly burn the part with a lighter. The CA vanishes and re joining the parts is required

Posted

You can use small bits of paper towels or tissues to blot up excess CA, Keep a small supply nearby and use your tweezers to hold the bits of paper. Discard after use. ;)

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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