HM Cutter Sherbourne by Stuka - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[AJohnson]

Sanding is not the best, but as Craig said feel or touch is the best way to gauge how smooth it is. From the pictures above I think more sanding. Also holding the hull up to a light or window will show up any imperfections visually better. 

[chris watton]

I would not use filler for the first planking, especially if there are no huge gaps in between the planks, it just makes for more unnecessary work. 

Also, I do recommend a small sanding mouse, I use this on all my hulls, and for the Sherbourne, it literally took no longer than 3 minutes to sand the whole hull smooth (then using a bit of sandpaper for the extremes and more awkward areas...)

[Stuka]

22 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Also, I do recommend a small sanding mouse, I use this on all my hulls, and for the Sherbourne, it literally took no longer than 3 minutes to sand the whole hull smooth (then using a bit of sandpaper for the extremes and more awkward areas...)

Hello Chris, I was actually considering buying one, any recommendations of a particular one? 

[Stuka]

1 hour ago, AJohnson said:

Sanding is not the best, but as Craig said feel or touch is the best way to gauge how smooth it is. From the pictures above I think more sanding.

Hello Andrew,  I did sand some corners here and there and felt it with my hand several times so now It feels very smooth so hopefully all goes well.  I might had used to much wood filler though

[chris watton]

22 minutes ago, Stuka said:

Hello Chris, I was actually considering buying one, any recommendations of a particular one? 

Nothing flash, as you're just sanding wood, so something like this:

 

BLACK+DECKER Mouse Detail Sander, 55W, 240V, Corded, Includes 6 Sanding Sheets, BEW230-GB : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

They do save a lot of time for sanding.

Edited October 10 by chris watton

[Stuka]

21 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Nothing flash, as you're just sanding wood, so something like this:

Thanks for the tip Chris, I hope I will do your model justice 😆

[glbarlow]

On 9/13/2024 at 3:53 PM, Stuka said:

sawed the glue with my mini saw

Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly.
 

Never be reluctant to remove, back up, restart, replace. These are wood models, not assemble in place plastic ones. Wood is very forgiving if treated carefully. I’ve backed up on hull planking that I often feel like I’ve planked three sides of a hull. Often laser cut  parts are cut a little big on purpose to allow for variations in each build, no two models are the same. You can sand it smaller, can’t make in bigger. As pointed out getting the ‘infrastructure’ or bones of the model correct is crucial to your enjoyment at later stages. 
 

Vanguard models are excellent, both for quality of parts and depth of instruction. You’re off to a good start. Have fun. Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand. 

Edited October 10 by glbarlow

[Stuka]

44 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly.

I did see it being mentioned before. I just gotta find out where I can get some of it in my town. 

[glbarlow]

Any hardware store. And correction. Denatured alcohol (also used as camp stove fuel) not isopropyl alcohol 

[Ronald-V]

11 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand. 

Same here...it would feel like too little control to me. With sandpaper grid 80 or 100/120 it comes off just like that, especially such a small hull. But if you like it better with a machine, go for it

[Craigie65]

11 hours ago, glbarlow said:

. Denatured alcohol

Might be known as methylated spirits, or even just meths.  Hardware stores and even amazon will sell it.

I use isopropyl alcohol rubbing alcohol.  It works well on PVA but can strip acrylic paint!

[Stuka]

Thanks for the tips, Ill take a look around and see if I find anything 👍

Edited October 11 by Stuka

[Stuka]

Hello 

So 2nd plank layer, I looked around on the forum and elsewhere to see how people attached the planks if they used PVA glue. And since I dont own any good pins for that I ultimately decided to go full CA glue.  Starting from the bow adding some glue then pressing the plank until the glue has taken its grip and thereafter moving towards the stern.  However with the first set of planks I thought for some reason that the planks where going to end right before the stern planking patterns (part 60 R/L) . I realized this mistake and tried correcting it with the 2nd pair of planks.  Its not a big deal I think we are talking about 1 mm of plank.  Also wont this area be covered with the waterline "plank" the one I see painted black in the pictures anyways not a big deal I think ultimately, moving on.  With the tapering like the manual suggests I only tapered my planks by the bow down to 3mm from the 2nd bulkhead and im quite happy with the result.  Working with CA glue is not ideal cause several times my fingers get stuck and leave these ugly marks on the planks so im lucky this will be sanded down and painted over. I can imagine why people would rather use PVA glue especially if the hull is not going to be painted.  

[chris watton]

CA glue is fine for 2nd planking, I have always use it.

[Ronald-V]

Personally I find working with scaled planks easier than a plank as long as the hull (or at least shorter lengths). For example in my Sphinx build I used 12cm long planks. On the back I put a few narrow stripes of PVA with empty spaces between these stripes spread over the plank. In the empty spaces I put a small drop of CA. This way you can work accurately and calmly with the glue without having to work on the model. After I have applied the glue to the plank I still have more than enough time to position the plank. Hold it for a few seconds and it stays perfectly in place. Everyone develops their own way of working that suits them...find your way  

Edited October 13 by Ronald-V

[Stuka]

Hello again 

Now after a long time Im finiushed with the second layer of plank. I had work and other things in the way so it took longer than I thought. 
The second planking was in a way much more tricky than the first layer atleast to my first impression since this is my first ever model. Since I didnt have any way to press the plank down if I was going to use PVA glue I choosed to go with CA glue. And It went alright apart from my fingers becoming stuck and some other mishaps here and there. But its all apart of learning and next model I will try get hold of more gel/thicker CA glue so it doest run everywhere. 

Tapering could again have been better at the end cause the last plank on each side I had to sand for so long until they would fit. Had I tapered and had a bit more patience I could have made it so 3 heavily tapered planks could run the final area instead of me having to to a custom made plank where I had to sand and dryfit until it made the fit. 

Some mishaps happend like when I used a piece of wood to hold a plank at the stern waiting for the CA to dry. After waiting 1 minute the plank had attached itself to my planking and when I tried getting it off it of course took some plank with it.....Learn from your mistakes as they say.

I used probably to much woodfiller but the sanding im going to be doing will tell. Since this is my first model I have no way yet as of telling if im overdoing something so I will just have to find out.                  

All in all, Happy to progress having made some mistakes but most importantly all this gives me experience with modelling and thats worth gold 🙂

[Stuka]

Question 

When Im painting the hull should I use Varnish before or after painting. Or even both?  

[Stuka]

Painting layer for layer by brush, Hopefully it comes up nicely, might thicken the paint though.

[Stuka]

Update 

So painted some 5 layers total and finished with the varnish and just added the main wales on each side. Using pins was very tricky so I slipped sometimes with the pins.  Regarding the next step of gluing the depth markers I read that they are to be painted copper. So I assume I gotta buy a copper paint for them but im checking other builds to see how others did it. 

[Craigie65]

Hi Robin,

Sorry I have not looked in for a while, life eh?

You are making great progress, you should find the rest of the build straight forward.  I am sure you will have learned a lot from persevering with this build.

Looking forward to the next update?

[Stuka]

Hello Craig !
No worries, Life is life after all 🙂Thanks for the encouragement though means alot. Now the Cutter is coming along nicely its just alot of problem solving all the time but nothing I should not be able to solve.