HM Colonial Cutter Mermaid by olliechristo - FINISHED - Modellers ShipYard -

[egkb]

Ahhhh the old Sky Hooks (darned hard things to rig)

 

Some nice colour contrasts going on Ollie, I particularly like the little nail details holding the lower wale in position, are you going to do the same for the top one?

 

Incidentally that Norfolk Cutter  looks a solid wee boat!

 

All the best

 

Eamonn

[Jim Lad]

Ollie,

 

King was an experienced naval officer; King commanded the Mermaid; King painted your picture - I wonder whose interpretation of the Mermaid you should trust?  

 

John

[olliechristo]

Thanks John.. I know i'm on the right track, just get a bit paranoid at times.. 

 

Eammon, Yes i will add more tree fake tree nails, these ones have not been puttied yet.. just full of sawdust. On the painted side i think i will just let the paint fill the holes and hopefully leave a slight impression, if they look too obvious i will putty them some... Ollie

[egkb]

Sounds like a cunning plan Ollie.

 

All the Best Mate

 

Eamonn

[ringbolt2013]

Ollie your gunports look splendid.  I kind of wonder though that I should perhaps be seeing 6 ports a side even though only 2 were filled.... I can't quite get away from that...used as wash ports I suspect.....sorry...most of my plans (I have 6 different cutters in my collection) have the 5-6 ports a side!?!?!?!?  Go figure!

 

Tom

[olliechristo]

Yes I know what you mean, I am thinking of painting the dummy ports on the painted side.. I don't think there was actually any need for more canons and any room to fit them..She is a very small vessel..  i dont think we had too many pirates on our coastal waters of Australia so nut too much need for defence etc... I'm sure John could bring some light on this, when he's about.. ...    Ollie

[Jim Lad]

Ollie,

 

Guns were needed in the north as defence against Maccassan pirates or to put the 'frighteners' on any native peoples who were encountered and proved to be unfriendly.

 

John

[olliechristo]

Fascinating.. I really love what I am learning along the way. I need to do more reading, i just started the Nutmeg of consolation..

 

The kit supplies two canons, do you think this was what she had most of her life? Just the two canons and culverins John?  Many thanks Ollie

[Jim Lad]

I haven't any information on the actual number of guns she carried, Ollie, but she wouldn't be heavily armed.  Even some of the English revenue cutters, which went to sea expecting to have to fight heavily armed smugglers, sometimes only carried two or four carronades.

 

I think sticking with the number of kit supplied guns, would be fine.

 

John

[ringbolt2013]

All that I have read was guns of 3lb, 4lb or 6lb  usualy using canister or langrage for close in work as pirates had large crews....nothing like a large shotgun to reduce the numbers!! I'm sure that round shot was used too but these guns would hardly make a dent in a good sized frigate or a real man-o-war...scantlings being what they were.  I'm sure that most cutters never really carried a full compliment, though in war I personally would like every gun I could get my hands on!!

 

Tom

[Jim Lad]

Tom,

 

The Mermaid was a Government survey cutter working on coastal surveys in what was then a very remote corner of the world.  They only needed weapons to protect themselves against possible attacks from people in canoes or lightly built coastal sailing craft. 

 

John

[Bindy]

Hiya Ollie,

 

I don't know much about the historical accuracies sorry but I do know the gun ports look great!

[olliechristo]

Hi all..    Thanks John, Bindy and tom..

 

Another 5 hours doing my fake tree nail detail on hull..

 

I have three different shades of putty i have made up.. I try many shades till i am satisfied.. I thank everyone here for the tips, to think i wasn't even going to do tree nails.. They certainly help the viewer understand the underlying construction of this tye of ship.. I am happy with it that;s for sure.. .

 

I managed to achieve the effect i wanted.. Visible but not standing out obviously... Click on images to see closer up//

regards Ollie

[egkb]

Brilliant stuff Ollie, those little details just make things 'Pop' !

 

Hmmmm I might just have to steal this method of different subtle colour 'treenails' ! (and pretend it was my idea over on Ballahoo..  )

 

All The Best

 

Eamonn

[ringbolt2013]

Very nice look....makes for a good "feel" as one looks at the hull!!   I am imprest with the entire finish!!  Very professional!!

 

Tom

[olliechristo]

Hi all, started my copper on hull today.. Being a mosaic artist and tiler, i think i have this one sorted...

 

I am very happy with how it is going and much like a mosaic or intricate tiling you just have to get into that meditative rhythm and hand cut most pieces.. .

 

i got some gel CA in a very easy to use applicator.. Works well but will need a bit of cleaning up on some spots..

 

One thing i am wondering with marking of waterline.. Do you level referencing deck or the keel to mark it?  Or does it depend on ship.?

 

 I have leveled the deck from bow to stern.. .. I think that seems logical.. Regards Ollie

 

 

[dgbot]

Many ships had drag. This means that the keel is not parallel with the water line. Look at the plans. They should show you the water line. The draw a line parallel to the line underneath the keel keeping track of the distance 1 to 3 inches your judgement. Then measure the keel from the base line if the keel runs parallel it is then easy. On your building prepare a holding station that will hold the keel at a even distance from the board and 90 degrees on the sides. On this site there are pictures of a waterline markers. Trace it around the hull. If there is drag do the same thing with the keel holder but make it even from the waterline. I hope this helps.

David B

[ringbolt2013]

Yes to drag ... The stern was usually deeper in the water. That created the drag ... it allowed faster changes of course and added stability. Also helped stop the drift to leeward when sailing. I think that David has the right of it!!!

 

Tom

 

PS starting out nice!! It will be neet to see the finish!

Edited February 12, 2014 by ringbolt2013

[Jim Lad]

Yes, Ollie, simply check the waterline from the plans.  In the meantime, be aware that the copper plates should overlap each other.

 

John

[olliechristo]

Thanks all.. John I did not know they should overlap..  Could be too late to change that,,, These instructions from kit are not helping much really..   Thanks all..

[dgbot]

Yes, Ollie, simply check the waterline from the plans.  In the meantime, be aware that the copper plates should overlap each other.

 

John

That is what we are here for.

David B

[ringbolt2013]

Material of the plates might be too thick to overlap in a proper way ...I don't know if you have enough to try it out with.  Top plates always over the bottom plates and forward over the after is the standard. Check it out... Underhill, Davis and Longridge are some of my info.

 

Tom

[dgbot]

Ollie,

  Do you know the thickness of the copper you are using.  If it too thick you can buy copper tape form a stain glass supply.

David B

[aliluke]

Hi Ollie

I'm just about to start this process - there are a few logs here with good advice - have a look at Ray's Diana and Pegasus and RMC's Vanguard - these go into a lot of detail. I agree with most of the above. One piece of advice I'm following is to place a styrene bead at the waterline to dress the plates to. Ray reckons fix this first rather than after cutting the tiles to the line.

 

For a cheap, cheerful and very effective waterline marker have a look at my log. I only went very slightly lower for drag at the stern on Fly but it depends on the ship. The AVS for instance is dramatically lower at the stern.

 

I'm not going to do overlaps excepting where I'm doing stealers. I think the overlaps would be out of scale. The FFM for Swan Class sloops argues that even at 1:48 scale the rivets would be nearly invisible. It is a bit like caulking and tree nailing I guess - you can emphasise a detail which in fact would not be realistically apparent at reduced scale but it gives the model a certain definition. Personal choice prevails.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[ringbolt2013]

Amen!!

[olliechristo]

Thanks all.. Alistair that is really well said and resonates with me.

 

I understand the overlap much better now, just to decide which way now.. I gather they overlap right to the next set of rivets..

 

They are 6mm x 12 x 0.2 thick.. I may leave keel as is and overlap the hull as I can see it would prevent a lot of cutting..

Regards all.. Ollie

[aliluke]

Hi Ollie

I'm going to be using the Amati plates - 0.1mm thick. They come in strips 7 plates long and by Ray's log (I think) you can lay them as strips - I think RMC does this too. The overlaps are only over the stealers as I understand - Ray's logs show this best. In any case I'm totally new to coppering so I'm at sea here too!!!

 

Cheers

Alistair

[RodR]

Ollie, you have done such a beautiful job on the hull planking, it seems such a pity to cover it up with copper plates!

 

cheers

Rod

[olliechristo]

Thanks Rod.. Im only doing copper on one side,, which also means i have plenty of plates to play with.. this side is also painted. Its my more authentic side... The other side will remain all timber   I get to try out most mediums... And i kind of get two models out of one.. Ollie

[olliechristo]

Hi all. I have spent about 10 hours since last mention of time.. 

 

I am plodding away at plates and really enjoying it.. Happy with the effect.

 

Thanks for all the help and ideas as usual gang.. I have done the gore line technique and now i have a straight line to work off back towards water line.. I decided to raise the waterline at bow, it seems to show this on the instructions mdel..

 

Will post another pic when copper is done..  Thanks all.. Ollie