USS Constitution by lambsbk – Revell – 1/96 - PLASTIC – With Fiber Optics

[lambsbk]

Plan "A" for the manger did not work. I was planning to reshape the putty to the desired hull shape but it cracked and split when filing. So on to plan "B". I shaped and glued styrene to the molded out hawse area and then applied filler. It has not dried yet (a great time for a tropical depression over my house) but when cured I will shape ,sand, and paint it. The hawse holes will be extended somewhat which I like (especially since I can not thicken my bulwarks) and the manger will be back on track for completion next week.

 

[lambsbk]

I got the hawse holes re-cut. But what I did NOT realize until after they were cut is the Revell openings externally are not symmetric port to starboard! So...moving on there is no way to fix that now.

Edited June 3, 2016 by lambsbk

[lambsbk]

... or I might try microfile and angling slightly down starboard and slightly up port internally. I'll post pics of before and after later.

[lambsbk]

This view shows the asymmetry between the port and starboard sides. I wish I would have caught this sooner. This view also shows the need to re-touch the gold paint at some point.

 

Edited June 5, 2016 by lambsbk

[lambsbk]

So...moving along on the gun deck bow area and the manger. I fashioned what I think is called a "king" or "deck hook" (I am really not sure if these are the correct terms either) as seen on the 1920's refit. After this I will make the manger bulkheads and then the messenger rigging. The messenger will be the last line joined before closing in the deck later.

 

 

Edited June 5, 2016 by lambsbk

[jbshan]

Breast hook.  A deck hook would support a deck and be a continuation of a deck clamp.  There would be a whole series of these running down the bows, possibly as far as the foremast step, to hold the sides to the stem.

[lambsbk]

Thanks Joel - a breast hook.  

 

Learning the nomenclature is, I believe, a life long process and I still have a long way to go.

[PeteGee]

Great Work! I do have a question...will that 'breasthook' allow enough leeway to step the bowsprit? Looks kinda tight to me. 

 

PeetGee

[lambsbk]

I am watching it carefully Petegee as I am with the manger bulkheads as well.

[popeye the sailor]

WOW!  nice bit of progress so far Dave.  really super what you've done so far.......although your ordeal with the section joint made me remember some of my turmoil with them.  after building four of these kits {various}...you'd think I'd have a good remedy for you.   the only thing I can say is that the deck,  as a whole,  fits loosely in the hull,  so perhaps a 1/16.......or even 1/32 strip of styrene can be added to the end of the center section,  and sanded to fit. {you've probably already taken care of the situation}.

 

stunning work my friend.........keep going!  

[lambsbk]

Thanks Denis. I am actually working on a jig to plane EXACTLY 0.85mm off the port side - tapered to 0mm starboard. That should line the deck up to join perfectly into the hull (otherwise I will have to keep shaving it till it does) - but that could start looking silly.

 

Thanks for the kudos.

 

Dave

Edited June 24, 2016 by lambsbk

[popeye the sailor]

I've built five vessels from this series so far.........the decks were the worst part.   I made the wood decks for the second build of the United States....that problem is done and over with.  another thing I tried,  was to do a dry fit of the sections to see how they fit.   along the bottom of the offending section,  I cemented a narrow strip of 1/32 styrene along the mating joint.   it also gave me a better glue point,  so it wasn't oozing out form the joint as much.   ......so much better........but not a fool proof method.   you'll figure it out,  I'm sure.........but don't take too much off.  those decks fit in there loose as it is  

[lambsbk]

It has been too long. When I last left this build I was wrestling with the incorrect seam match for the aft and mid sections of the Spar Deck. Starboard is 0.85mm longer than the port side. Complicating this is the capstan which is already in place. Now, I could have chopped off the capstan and filed gently but accuracy would have been lost and I would have to repair or replace the capstan.

 

I have been watching you folks on MSW and the tools used. One that shows up consistently is the MF70 mill. Although it seems I have been doing nothing on my build (actually I guess I haven't done anything on it ) I have actually been watching Ebay for an MF70 at a good price. 2 weeks ago I found one and bought it. I set it up tonight and here is my solution to the mismatched seam using the cylinder cutter. This pic shows a spare Spar aft section of deck. After carefully measuring the before cut and after cut seam - it seems I have my solution: 0.85mm taken off the starboard side and none on the port side. I will cut the build spar deck piece tomorrow and then I can glue that section and finally move forward.

 

Dave

 

Edited February 10, 2017 by lambsbk

[usedtosail]

You are going to love that mill Dave. I love mine.

[billt]

You talked me into checking out ebay and sure enough I found  a MF70 for a really good price too,  So I ordered it. What accessories are recommended for model building?

[lambsbk]

I don't really know Built. I used it for the second time today. I bought a dividing head and 5 assorted Proxxon bits to go with the machine. I mounted it on a portable board. The dividing head allows side spindle work and offset rotational work...can't wait to try that on my build but it is not needed yet. Good luck.

 

Dave

[billt]

Thanks Dave,   I've wanted one for a while. Like you I've seen it referenced a lot on this site.  I wondered about the divided head. Looks like that would be useful for holding dowels. 

 

Bill

[lambsbk]

I did the surgery today. Here are the before and after pics dry fit to the ship. Once glued down I can dry brush the exposed plastic defects and should have a fair result. I will dry fit the main mast to be sure the rake did not change after the slight aft section shortening. Since I am going to add mast partners on all 3 masts it will not be a problem to widen the molded mast hole.

 

 

I knocked off 2 gun port doors while doing this today. They are VERY touchy.

 

Dave

Edited February 11, 2017 by lambsbk

[DCooper]

It is fantastic to see that you are continuing this wonderful build. 

 

Also nice to see that you have got your new mill, I'm sure you will find much joy and many uses for it.  I hope you share them as I for one would love to see more information about machining with these smaller mills.  Very envious as I'd love to have one to mess about with.

 

I am looking forward to see what you have in store for us next.

 

 

Dan

[lambsbk]

This is how I set up my mill. I screwed down the wood box and it holds the dividing head (which is excellent for dowels - but does not replace a lathe for longer work) and the various small tools and cutters.

 

Edited February 12, 2017 by lambsbk

[lambsbk]

I dry fit the Spar Deck today after trimming the partially complete deck beams to make them fit to the bulwarks. The camboose is about as snug as it can be and in fact, the frames are holding it down and the camboose top is giving the deck some needed camber. It will probably have to be lowered or I will have to correct the beams at this area. The Gun Deck can now be completed - manger, anchor cable with messenger to the capstan and canon balls. I am still not sure of what colors to put on the beams. They are a bit glaring right now. I would like to match the color of the inner bulwarks for the beams bottom and sides but a neutral grey or contrasting brown color for the tops would look nice - like exposed aged wood. That is still in thought.

 

Edited February 12, 2017 by lambsbk

[popeye the sailor]

nice progress Dave  

[lambsbk]

Well the bowsprit bitts are actually next to a beam, the bowsprit fits between the beams, the lanterns are between the beams, the caboose fits snugly between beams, and the mid-deck section is married nicely to the fabricated beams. I am not that good guys.

 

So in the words of Chiun: "every man is occasionally blessed with luck!" (I am an old 'Remo Williams' fan)

 

Dave

[lambsbk]

Before moving on I thought it prudent to see if the framing really allowed a better view of the gun deck - after all, if it didn't what's the point? So I hooked up the temporary light source, turned off the lights and result was very positive. The photos show with the natural light in pic 1 the eye is sort of drawn to the frame itself. But with the natural light off and the lanterns only the eye is drawn to the gun deck. I threw in a blurry pic of the captains quarters which looked really cool - the photo did not do it justice though.

 

Dave

 

Edited February 17, 2017 by lambsbk

[billt]

That's looking really good!

[md1400cs]

Dave,

 

Great update - love the lighting details. 

 

Cheers,

[lambsbk]

I turned my attention to the cannon balls this week.The attached chart was found online and gives me an idea of the shot size given the weight caliber of the shot. I hope these are accurate and in fact they seem to be based on the scale of canon on my build.

 

 

The 1/96 calculations in the table are incorrect. So converting the 24 pound shot and 32 pound gave an actual diameter of 1.47mm on the 24 pound shot and 1.61mm on the 32 pound shot at 1/96 scale.

[lambsbk]

 

I decided to give round head pins a try at providing this scale. I am concerned about a ball bearing getting loose and rolling around as I work the rest of the model. I figured the pin would give me a way of making them more secure. I found some 1.5mm and 1.6mm pin heads online and ordered them. After confirming their diameter I blacked them and then cut them. although the last pic is blurry you can get the idea.

 

 

 

The comings on the decks are too shallow for the shot racks. I am not worried about it on the gun deck since it will mostly be seen from above but I will need to add height the them on the Spar deck.

 

 

 

 

 

[usedtosail]

Good idea using pins for the canon balls Dave. I have a few loose ball bearings inside my gun deck which are impossible to recapture.

[Matt Cinnabar]

If I might make a suggestion, another alternative would be to make a representative shot rack of each type, glue in the appropriate size ball bearing, make RTV castings, then make as many resin copies as you need.  You have an unlimited supply, and there are no loose cannonballs to run around on the gun deck.  Just a thought, but it has worked well for me.