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Cutty Sark by Omar CS - Scientific - scale 1:140 approx


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I used the jolly boat as a pattern.

 

I glued two pieces of scrap balsa to get the thickness I wanted. I turned the jolly boat upside down on the plywood and drew the outline of the jolly boat. I also drew the center line of the boat and the width of the keel. I then used the Michelangelo method and removed everything that did not look like the boat. I used a couple of grades of sand paper so the removal was not too fast which made it easier to keep the two halves looking the same. I figured if this process went badly I just lost a little scrap. As I got close to shape I add the keel and bow pieces. The boat was a little to deep, so I sand papered it to a better depth by rubbing it upside down on the sandpaper.

 

The new boat is only 45mm long and will sit between the two life boats so I did not think it had to be perfect.

 

Oh,   Michelangelo was to have said when he carved his sculptures that he just removed everything that did not look like the sculpture.

 

Nenad, your work is one of the reasons I joined this forum.

 

 

Omar

Edited by omarcs
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Very nice omarcs! Would love to see more detail of your ship. I have never heard of Scientific - even Google hasn't heard of them! Do they have a website? 

 

Also, there is a strange checkerboard pattern on your copper plating. Is that a side effect of camera aliasing?

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Thx Omar, I am very glad that here is anyone who is inspired by my messy work. Just these days I participated in one discussion on FB between Serbian modellers in wood and from plastic, representing the thesis that this hobby is not only for grand masters. There is, and there must be a room for other mortals, and I think that every step we do is also promotion of this great hobby and its values  

 

... he just removed everything that did not look like the sculpture....

 

 

 

How this sounds easy ...  ;)

Edited by Nenad M
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I got the tree from my model train stash. The ornaments are from my wife's cookie decorations. Santa is proving difficult.

 

The new and modified life boats are just visible. Not sure I am happy with the new boat. Make need to try again.

 

Merry Christmas!!

 

Omar

Edited by Omar CS
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  • 4 weeks later...

Some work in progress:

 

Anchor chain windlass. Styrene tubes glued together then turned to shape using battery powered drill as lathe.

Styrene capstan bars.

Anchor chain pipe using styrene tube.

Anchor chain using thrift shop find.

 

new boat skids for gig.

smoke stack for galley

 

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I think there should be a forum for kit boats that get out of hand. I may never get to rigging my ship since I am starting to despair ever finishing the main deck.  

 

I have discovered the spare yards and spars stored on deck and on the boat skids. Too visible to omit; so I am making them (and added a topic  Ship deck furniture about appropriate color). I also have found that some of the details on the kit I cannot find on Campbell's plans, and they are in the way of the spare spars, so off they come. I am also going to try to add the fire buckets in the fire bucket rack.

 

All I really thought I was going to do when I restarted the build was rigging.

 

 

 

The Admiral says they won't be seen once the ship is on the mantle. Like giving up any addiction, that is no help.

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Nice build.  I have the Scientific Sea Witch that I want to start someday.  I am to understand you stained the lower hull?  I am interested in doing this instead of painting or using copper.

 

BTW, keep adding detail until you feel you cannot add anymore.  That is the key to enjoying this hobby.

 

Scott

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  • 2 weeks later...

Work continues, but no photos right now. working on spare spars and yards for deck and boat skids. Making ladders for deck houses. Moved life boat racks. completing capstan arms. working on windlass parts. contemplating how to do several other pieces. lots of builds on the forum to go through.

 

I have 6 different sizes of chain. I decided eyeballing was not good enough so I figured out the scale sizes of my chain. When I divided the scale by links per inch I got length of link for my scale. scale is 1:140; therefore 20 LPI chain is 140/20 = 7 scale inches. PLEASE tell me if I am wrong!!!.

 

The next item is to find the size of the links for the various chains on the ship.

 

There was a comment about being intimidated by the very excellent modelers. I don't get intimidated - I look at what they did and try to figure out how they did it so I can try to do. My results are not them same; but at the same time I have gotten better.

 

Thanks for the encouragement everyone!!!  

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Decided I needed to make harness casks. The kit just had barrels, not the tapered ones shown various plans.

 

The rail on the front of the poop bothers me. No room for fire buckets - like I know how I am going to make them. The rail and fire bucket look fairly straight forward.

 

Also working on ship's boats and extra spars and yards. I have the chains on the life boats and spars on racks. The 8 sided spare spar is bothersome, First attempt at 8 sides was dismal. I think I need to start with a square shape, rather than a round one.

 

Jury duty last week. Actually sat on a trial. An interesting experience trying to apply the actual law to the facts presented in order to give a just result.

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Edited by omarcs
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The best model ship is the completed model ship HA HA HA; check my personal stash . I noted a question on 'Scientific' The company went out of business in the late 1970's. Scientific originated right after the war and emulated Megow and early model shipways. The target market was father/son projects that sort of epitomized the more innocent age of the 1950's. At any rate they produced dozens of different kits in various scale. Each kit contained a billett turned hull and a sheet of pre-printed deck wood and some rather generic lead castings of mast platforms, mast caps, anchors and the like. They are a great diplay size and are easily procured through e-bay. Since many thousands were produced one can pay just a few dollars for a great basic kit. They can drive one a bit crazy since they are odd scaled more to fit available boxes than a modelling community scale size. What I mean is one has to use creativity and problem solving skills to reproduce necessary features like pin rails and belaying pins. 

   Great job on the model. Try Sovereign of the Seas or get a good reference and convert a basic Scientific kit to an equally famous clipper ship for which no kit exists (Comet, Rainbow, Western Shores, Storm King to name but a few)!

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Using the kit as a starting point is an interesting idea. I will know about this scale and how to approach the new build. I also will know what I will want to change to make a better model.

 

Good idea.

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  • 1 month later...

some more little things. Made rail winches from dowel and wire from broken door bell. I also decided to thread the dead eyes. Can't seem much detail, but they have a better bulk. I also got to remove life boats so I could get to rail

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some more little things.

 

Made rail winches from dowel and wire from broken door bell.

 

I also decided to thread the dead eyes. Can't seem much detail, but they have a better bulk. In the bottom picture it is 'after' on left and 'before' on right side.

 

I also got to remove life boats so I could get to rail

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  • 3 months later...

Busy summer with little work on ship. I am working on the railings for the bow now. The kit came with brass pins to make magic happen. I used thread for chain (Campbell has chains at bow and solid rail for stern) and they are okay, but the kit does not have a rail on top of the bulwark so they look pretty lame. I will have same problem at stern. And to think I could be drinking Cutty Sark rather than building it.

 

I have been contemplating the missing rails and I think this latest development means I need to add the rub rails. The painted hull isn't going to make it easier. The one on top of the bulwark will be easiest; I will try it first.

 

 

Good thing this is  a hobby. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHA

 

Omar

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  • 1 month later...

After putting 1 set of bow guard chains on and not liking the result, I added a rail on the top gallant bulwark. I was able to soak the basla and bend it. I used titebond glue which sets rapidly so I did not have to try and figure out how to clamp it. The stern wood bending did not go well, I got kinks in both sides so out came the razor saw and I cut off the offending sections. I cut pieces that mostly fit and used a rasp to bring to finished shape. I diluted the paint (craft type acrylic) and got the look I wanted which was to look similar to existing paint applied 40 years ago. And now I have a deck littered with stove pipes, bits, wheel house. Lifeboats are on a cookie sheet with other parts I removed. No wonder I am not finished - I keep removing stuff.

 

Admiral liked the finished rail!!  

 

I was not happy with bow guard chain but I check size in scale and it is about 4 foot (1 meter) tall and that seems to me to be about right so I will see how it looks on new rail.

 

Omar

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

No pictures yet, but I have added 4 portholes, and  1 anchor billboard to port side. Also made a bunch of 1mm eyebolts using Nenad's method. I found my T pins are 1 mm and the wire I used for the deadeyes bends very easily around the t-pin. A little solder - woo hoo. I also sat down with the Scientific plans and a download of the Revell 1:96 CS plans and marked all the eye bolt locations on the hull. I will go back later and do the same for masts. I tried doing the eyebolt locations with Campbell's, Artesian, Sergal, and Billings with out much luck. Because Revell has all the parts to glue in, I just had to look for the eyebolts numbers.

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